A circular saw from a handmade circular saw with your own hands
Homemade circular saw machine from a circular saw
Once I heard the opinion: “with a tool anyone can make a masterpiece, and you try without it”!”. Answer, without tools, anyone can also) But the only difference in speed of production, and quality of the end product. My tools did not fall from the sky, all bought and pulled together by bits and pieces. I make some machines myself. I had in my farm handheld circular saw, but there was a need for a cutting table. Buy oh how expensive, and these hands even)))) which grow out of my shoulders. In short, a little metal and ingenuity and the result. A great sawing table for a circular saw. I have in the arsenal of another tool for crafts and my carpentry search for truth in the depths of wood. Now I have a wood lathe, a bench Grinder and a circular saw. It gets easier to create, and I need a mechanical hammer, band saw, and reismus to complete the kit. You look what I have done, and I have to go, I run to make the next video for you.
Angle as a rail? I hope you picked a straight angle. Because I bought myself some angles. And they were stored in each other and their weight (in the market) sagged. When I first welded the frame for the grille, I realized how crooked they were. If it has to be straight, even the profile will be flatter.
You can buy a good sawing table for not much more than a good floorboard.
Made a table myself once, now I’m sorry for the time wasted.
How many fingers are left on these homemade things.
@moderator, move it to Handmade, please.And remove the link to YouTube: you can not on the video links.
Hand circular saw for this can be used quite usual. The power and diameter of the disk directly depends on what and how much you are going to process. Remember also, that fixing to the table steals up to 20 mm from maximum cutting depth, that’s why single-handed saws with 120 mm blade are not suitable for such purposes. The circular saw’s depth and angle of cut adjustment features will give you more options for fine detailing and box grooving.
Paper from pine needles
Whoever tried to make paper himself once will never be indifferent to it again.
Paper from waste paper, paper from fabric, paper from grass, paper from nettles and blackberry bark, paper from January sedge. And now, from pine needles.
Somewhere on the Internet I met a story that you can knit, it turns out, from the pine needles. This case is time-consuming, peculiar and on the amateur. Knitting and sewing are not my thing, but the idea that needles also produce fiber was firmly lodged in my mind.
And about a month ago I picked up in the woods fallen after another wind pine branches with long needles. At home I separated the needles from the twigs and proceeded to turn the needles into raw material.
I had them soaking in the basin for a week, changing the water every day. Then for the same amount of time every day boiled for several hours with the addition of baking soda. Why the baking soda?? I can’t say for sure, I think it’s necessary. I boil bones with it, and it also helps to extract the paint from the lichen. I love baking soda.
When the needles were finally sufficiently soaked, it was time to crush them, crumple them, extract fibers from them. I remembered very well what was the best way to turn grass into pulp, so I immediately took up the hammer for beating meat. So pretty quickly the needles lost their original appearance and began to look like a mottled washcloth. By this time my hand was tired. Then tortured the needles with the blender. He finished what he started.
The next step was the most effective for shredding the needles. The knife did a much better job than the electric blender. The squeezed needles remain a dense clump that just slices like sausage. Then rinse. Squeeze and shred again. And so until the desired result is achieved.
In the meantime the cotton and linen rags were boiled over. I mixed it with the needles and went on to cut together. The last step was to soak up some of the waste paper from what I collect: needles and rags alone wouldn’t make paper very usable. A certain percentage of the classic paper pulp is absolutely necessary here. In my case it’s about 40-45%.
Just mix all the ingredients in enough water was not enough, it was necessary to let the future pulp stand for 24 hours.
I did not film the actual process of casting the paper, as I was all upside down in needles, water, pulp. But I can show you the result with my favorite “embedded” ferns, each of which will later be inserted into the frame.
Necessary materials and tools
To begin the work process it is recommended to prepare everything you need. Stationary equipment is mounted on a sturdy and stable table. To make it, you will need a sheet of sanded plywood of the required size, at least 20 mm thick. You can make the legs of the table from 4 bars connected by wooden or metal crosspieces.
In addition, you will need a hand circular saw or angle grinder.
It is also necessary to stock up on the following tools and materials:
- electric screwdriver;
- 3-4 metal clamps;
- Self-tapping screws and screws;
- 2 small-sized metal curtains;
- 2 screw clamps;
- Sanded board, the length of which corresponds to the length of the table, and the height varies in the range of 10-12 cm;
- pencil, long ruler.
All this can be found in a workshop or purchased inexpensively in any hardware store.
Design and materials for a stationary saw
Homemade circular saw with his own hands can be made by fixing the hand tool on a stable base. In the simplest variant the device is installed on a wooden trestle or a table made of plywood and planks. The tool is fastened underneath the plywood sheet, and a cut is made for the toothed disk in the tabletop.
The parameters of the machine design depend on the size of the material to be processed. The power of the hand tool is selected according to it (800-1200 W or more). To make a clean cut, it is better to install a model with a speed of 3000-4000 revolutions.
To make the machine will require wood materials, fasteners and tools:
Tools for making a homemade circular saw.
plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more;board for stiffeners and legs (50×100 mm);sandpaper, joinery glue and varnish;bolts, self-tapping screws, screw clamps;tape measure, pencil, ruler;electric jigsaw, drill, electric screwdriver.
The height of the table is selected according to the master’s height and is usually about 1 m, the length of the table top depends on the size of the materials to be processed.
Necessary tools and materials
For correct and reliable connection of parts, creating a rigid structure that can withstand heavy loads, you will need:
tools: angle grinder with cutting discs; welder; hammer; drill with a set of drills; measuring tool. tape measure, meter, angle, scoop, core; consumables. electrodes, brushes for metal; clamps, vise materials: metal corners or profile pipe; metal sheet for the working plate; bolts, washers, nuts, studs; metal strip; hardwood planks;
Assembly technology for stationary circular saw
To create such a tool, it is recommended to work in the following sequence:
creation of a working sketch, general and detailed drawings; marking the main elements; cutting blanks; assembling the frame of the machine; marking and sawing out slots and holes in the working plate; installation of the motor, shaft, lifting mechanism; installation of electrical wiring; making additional equipment.
Manual circular saw. turning it into a stationary
From a hand circular saw it is not difficult to make a stationary saw, extending its capabilities. First of all we need a table. Convenient material will serve Finnish plywood, which, unlike conventional, is laminated. workpieces during processing slip well on the surface. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture-resistant, well machinable. You can use an ordinary 20 mm plywood, but it needs to be painted, or better covered with sheet steel or textolite.
It should be understood that the depth of cut will be reduced by the thickness of the cover. You need a blade with a large diameter, so as not to reduce the functionality compared to a portable tool. Make the dimensions of the table top sufficient to fit the workpiece in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen the electric planer and jigsaw, which will make the machine versatile.
Using the drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional attachments for the circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.
Mark a rectangle on a sheet of plywood with the required dimensions, cut it out and trim the edges. With the sole of the hand circular to the surface and mark the places of attachment with a pencil. Make a slot for the circular saw. You can make the fastening point deeper with the router, but not more than 10 mm so as not to weaken the table top. This way of manufacturing will allow you to bring the depth of cut close to the specified in the data sheet of the circular saw.
From boards we make a frame (tsarga), which we install underneath to strengthen the construction. Four planks are fastened into a box, glued to the table top, and fastened with clamps. Screw self-tapping screws into boards through the table. Countersink the holes for them from above to hide the heads of the self-tapping screws. Fix the feet, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts, to the standing saw’s crossbars. The table should have extra rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
Make a bounding strip, equal to the length of the work surface. In it we drill two slots perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. Now it remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button with duct tape when it is on. On the tower we install the socket connected to the mains. In the gap of the wire, going to the saw, we mount the switch.
Circular machine, as close as possible to the factory models, requires a competent approach to the assembly, so before you make a circular saw of the stationary type, it is necessary to think through all the details. In principle, the table mini circular saw from the stationary differs in the height of the bed, which depends directly on the nature of the work performed and the size of workpieces that will process the device. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, and the circular from a manual circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and the carpenter, who constantly conducts manipulations with lumber, will need a stationary homemade circular. Below is a diagram, which details all the elements and devices for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circular saws of this type have a clear design, and the drawings, such as the one presented above, greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular saw, as well as assembling a circular table with your own hands, let’s look at each detail of the unit separately, so that you know all the details of its operation and installation.
Circular saw table
The table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from planks or metal profiles. Professionals strongly recommend that the table for circular saws should be covered with a sheet of galvanized metal, because without coverage the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from the constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the kerf, and the depth of cut will be uneven. Cross bracing for saw table is better to be made of 60. 80 mm steel angle with horizontal segment outwards in order to simplify mounting of side limiter. Self-made table, on which the circular saw will be installed, must be strong and stable, and it must be reliably fixed in a fixed position.
Circular saw blade
toothed disk must be raised above the table surface of the circular saw by at most one third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If it is necessary to cut a bar with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the similar parameter of a cutter should not exceed 350 mm, but the engine here is required with capacity from 1 kW. For workpieces over 150mm in diameter, a handmade mini circular saw is unlikely to be suitable. Some factory-made circular saws have a riving knife that is mounted behind the blade at a distance of 2. 3 mm from the saw’s teeth. It eliminates jamming moment due to the clamping of parts sawed billet, so it can be very useful and in the case when going to a home-made circular saw.
Adjustable side stop
It is possible to set a quality stop from a steel angle with a cross section of about 80 mm, which is 3. 4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the angle bend down so that their width was one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed to the homemade circular saw table in the set position with screws. This element is adjusted according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft, installed on the circular saw is the most responsible unit, therefore its boring and testing together with a disk should be done only by a specialist with special equipment. The product of the pipe with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded at once, because the slightest error in the work of this element will turn into major troubles such as equipment failure, damage to the workpiece and personal injury to the operator. The optimal solution would be to buy a ready-made shaft with a landing place for the torch. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings with a curved inner surface, otherwise the handmade unit will quickly collapse and the shaft installed on the homemade circular saw will fall into disrepair.
In our case, the V-belt drive will be ideal, but it is better to refuse from the gear rigid mechanism, as such a self-made device does not guarantee safety. If a nail is caught in the lumber, the rotor of the motor will cause the disc to break and could cause injury. If the inside diameter of the belt pulleys is small, slippage is assured and a tensioned belt serves as a kind of damper. Gear ratio is usually selected based on engine speed, making sure to consider the allowable number of revolutions of the disc. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation can be, and the cleaner the remade machine will saw.
Among self-made devices, the most popular is the circular saw assembled from the engine from a washing machine.This choice is based on the fact that its circuitry is best suited for this application. In contrast to the collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the motor from a washing machine runs at less high speed, which means that it shows a longer work, has a higher efficiency and is not so prone to all kinds of clogs. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then there will be additional costs for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from a washing machine. That’s basically all the wisdom.
Circular saw from a circular saw with his own hands
The stationary circular saw is a very necessary tool in the carpentry workshop. for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make different items to order. Such a stationary machine is characterized by the convenience of work. especially long and monotonous. The more often the operator’s back is upright, so less fatigue is produced.
Today in stores machines and tools are presented in a huge selection of models. However, for the simple carpenter they are too expensive, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example. the craftsman made a stationary saw with his own hands, taking a hand-held circular saw. In what way did he do it. see below.
The list of necessary materials: hand circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture head; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.
List of tools: electric jigsaw; hand circular saw; drill; electric screwdriver; hammer; screwdriver; pliers; ruler.
How to assemble a stationary circular saw
As we have already noted, for making his circular saw the author used a manual circular saw. In doing so, he made no changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top. where the cut for the disk before. He drilled the holes and then sawed. Having taken plywood and a 40×40 timber, I made the base.
After that, the author took the plywood, sawed the table top. It is better to have it laminated or varnished, with a flat and smooth surface. As described, we made the kerf, drilled holes in the corners for subsequent fasteners.
At the bottom of the table top, we fastened the circular saw, using M-8 bolts. At the same time, the bolt flats must be recessed in the plywood.
For more convenient work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable support on furniture rails.
We used an aluminum angle for the longitudinal support.
To adjust it, you should loosen the bolts and move them to the desired distance for further work.