A device for sharpening chainsaw chains with their own hands
Sharpening machine for chainsaws chains with their own hands
The main mistake most people make is to turn with standard circular files in their workshops. This operation leads to deterioration of the working tooth, thereby grinding its attacking part. Here are a few rules that you should always remember when sharpening:
- The dimensions of the teeth must be the same;
- The angle of the working links and the height of the limiter must match the passport data;
- Tooth sharpening should be carried out with a specialized round file;
- The angle of attack should be 90º vertically and from 10º to 30º horizontally.
A manual device for sharpening chainsaw chains. pros and cons
The tool for sharpening chainsaw chains has its advantages and disadvantages. Among its advantages, it is necessary to allocate:
- Ease of use. acquiring skills to work with an automatic machine takes more than one day, whereas you can start using manual tools immediately after purchasing them;
- the manual attachment does not need to be repaired. to restore the chain sharpener for chainsaw chain you will only need an angle grinder and a diamond bit;
- low price for a manual set. on average, a manual tool for sharpening will cost 3-4 times cheaper than a machine.
The manual sharpening kit also has several disadvantages. The first of these is the low operating speed. The second disadvantage. the need to fix the chain and file. The third disadvantage of hand-held tools is the frequent loss of jigsaws and other small attachments from the kit by chainsaw owners.
Making a stationary machine with their own hands
For example, in the video below, the original design of the return spring and the placement of the hinge directly on the horizontal part of the frame draws attention. In this design is not very convenient to move the chain, and starting the motor “by hand” does not stand up to criticism. This machine is a typical example of a sharpening device assembled entirely from improvised materials.
The following video clip shows the most “factory-made” variant of the home-made saw chain sharpening machine. Everything can be adjusted like a factory product, the chain guide bar is very conveniently located and the construction itself looks very professional. even the handles are provided with big round knobs.
The main disadvantage of all these quite functional self-made devices is the complete or partial non-observance of safety rules by their authors. This is mainly due to the lack of a protective cover on the outside of the sharpening blade. And this is not a reinforced angle grinder wheel, but a rather fragile piece of ceramic-bonded corundum oxide.
On all machines of this type the sharpening itself takes only a few seconds. And the most time-consuming task is to move the chain manually to the next tooth.
And there are machines with fast and fixed chain travel, such as from a lever? After all, it is quite possible to use a chainsaw sprocket for this. If you have encountered such solutions, please share the information about it in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев to this article.
chain saw chain sharpening attachments
Lines on the file holder with a round file allow for correct positioning of the tool in relation to the chain. According to the orientation lines the handpiece is placed on the tooth to be sharpened. It lies on the top edge and the depth stop, and the file is under the cutting edge.
The holder allows the file to be at the right height on the tooth. There are different holders for chains with different pitches. Choosing the right holder and the right file diameter will allow the latter to protrude over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter.
Before you start sharpening, it is advisable to secure the guide bar. When working, make 2 to 3 strokes of the sharpening operation, keeping the file firmly pressed against the tooth edge, and without changing the position of the file holder. Do not apply too much pressure, but move the file smoothly and evenly. The file should be rotated regularly to avoid clogging and one-sided wear. All other teeth are also sharpened using this operation. For greater convenience, sharpen all teeth of one direction first, and then the teeth of the other direction.
While sharpening the teeth, try to equalize the pressure and number of movements for each tooth. That way the teeth will have the same length. Otherwise the chain will run unevenly and may crack. Tooth size differences can be eliminated by filing all teeth down to the shortest tooth length.
After 5-10 sharpening of the teeth it is necessary to grind the depth limiter. The template is used for this purpose. It is placed so that the limiter protrudes from the kerf, and this protruding tip is filed down with a flat file.
The design of the other set is different, but the principle of its operation differs little from that described above. It uses all the same round and flat files, and a universal special template allows you to properly sharpen the cutting tooth and depth stop. In the case of sharpening the cutting tooth the chain must fall into its slots. The file is placed on the template and guided under the cutting edge against the guide rollers. The file must move along the side edges of the template.
Before sharpening the height limiter, think about what kind of wood you will be sawing in the near future. For soft wood the depth stop is inserted into the slot labeled “Soft”, and for hardwood into the slot labeled “Hard. Grinding of height limiter, as well as using the first device, should be made by several smooth movements of a flat file.
chain sharpening with a file or electric chain sharpening tool at home, video
Proper operation and care greatly affect the quality and performance of the tool. A chainsaw chain requires sharpening in good time to keep the chain in good working order. A dull chain can be taken to a specialist or sharpen it with your own hands, especially since the whole process is not particularly difficult. You just have to have a certain amount of skill because the teeth on it are very irregularly shaped.
When to sharpen and how to know about it
Problems that may arise due to untimely maintenance of the chain:
- crooked cuts;
- high load;
- increased fuel consumption;
- The chainsaw will wear down the drive system faster and reduce the service life of the chain saw.
How fast you can sharpen your teeth depends on how often you use the tool and the conditions in which you operate it. Enough just a couple of times to snag the ground or stones, and already need to do sharpening chain chainsaw.
Signs by which you can recognize that the chain is blunt:
- The tool tries to pull out of the hands, gets stuck;
- Fine shavings, almost dust, are sprinkled;
- The saw only goes deeper with great effort;
- extended cutting time.
In addition, blunted teeth can simply be carefully inspected. Even with the naked eye, signs of dullness are noticeable.
the earlier the chain is sharpened, the less metal is ground, and it will last longer.
How and with what to sharpen chain teeth
Saw chain teeth are irregularly shaped. They consist of a base, blade, and depth stop. the saw blade is vertical and has a horizontal blade that slopes downward at an angle;. the chain is sharpened faster than the chain is sharpened with the aid of a tapered blade. It is these blades that make the chainsaw cut through the wood. They work on the planer principle, whittling the pieces, and the limiter regulates their thickness (the height difference between it and the horizontal blade is the thickness of the chip). A chainsaw chain can be sharpened by hand or with a machine.
One of the most common methods is with a kit consisting of a round file, a flat file, a file holder, a template for a file stop, and a hook used to remove filings. For correct positioning of the holder, there are special markings on it to determine the correct angle for sharpening. It is mounted on top of the tooth and limiter, and the round file stays underneath and is located just next to the blade. The file holder keeps the file at the correct height, or rather 1/5 of the height above the blade. Only round files are used for sharpening the cutting tooth, because the outline of the tooth is round.
Sets should be purchased with the pitch size of the chain in mind. Do not use the same set for sharpening different chains.
Before you start sharpening a chainsaw chain at home, the guide bar must be clamped in a vise or with a clamp, most importantly so that the saw does not move during machining. Having set the file holder according to the marks, begin to move the file smoothly, not pressing it too much, from yourself 2-3 times. Similar actions are repeated with all other teeth. The file must be turned over from time to time so that there is no one-sided wear. The strength of pressure and number of movements for all should be the same, it is necessary for uniform sharpening of all teeth. If they are different, the chain may crack, causing it to break.
To make the work easier the teeth are sharpened on one side first, and after them the saw is turned over and the teeth are aligned on the other side.
Start sharpening with the smallest prong, so that all other prongs are the same length. After the work on processing the blades is finished, move on to the limiters. On top of the chain install the template from the kit in such a position that the limiter is in the hole. Flatten the protruding portion with a flat file.
This video shows an example of how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file:
There is another set that, instead of a holder, has one template, both for sharpening the blade and for sharpening the limiter. It is set so that the chain hits the holes. Then a round file is placed on top of the rollers and brought under the blade. During sharpening, it must be ensured that it is always parallel to the side edges of the template.
there are 2 separate holes for the stop, marked Soft for soft wood and Hard for hard wood. The protruding part of the kerf should be filed out with a flat file.
Sharpening is carried out only from itself and with smooth movements, the last number of movements should be the same for all teeth.
This system allows you to sharpen the chain in seconds without even having to remove it from the bar. Includes PowerSharp chain, cutter bar, saw bar and sharpener. In order to sharpen the chain with it, you will need to do the following 3 steps:
- install the bar and the PowerSharp chain;
- Inside the sharpening device to fix the bar, then it is installed on the bar;
- Place the end of the chain saw against an object and let it run for a few seconds.
The video below shows in more detail how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands using this system:
Manual and electric machines
If the teeth are badly worn and the cutting blade has lost its shape, it will take a long time to straighten them by hand. In this case, a manual or electric machine with a sharpening wheel is usually used. The first type of device has the form of a beam saw with a circular file. Machines can be stationary and mobile, which can be mounted directly on the bar.
Apparatus for sharpening chainsaw chains
In this article you will learn how to quickly sharpen a chainsaw chain with the help of a self-made device, which can be made in 5 minutes.
- Circular file for sharpening the chain.
- Bearing with internal diameter of 10 mm.
- A glue stick with a diameter of 11 mm from a hot air gun.
Now the process of making the fixture itself.
We cut off a piece of glue rod and insert it into the inner rim of the bearing.
The rod is held tightly inside the bearing.
And insert the file with the heated up side into the hot glue, exactly in the center.
Let’s start sharpening, the scheme of chain sharpening of a chainsaw chain is shown in the figure.
Turn on the screwdriver and file back and forth on the cutter.
With this simple device you can quickly sharpen the chain of a chainsaw.
We recommend watching the author’s video, which shows how to sharpen the chain of a chainsaw with a homemade device.
Now it’s time to tell about the mobile version. The design of the mobile unit is similar to the archer saw. We use a custom circular file as the saw edge. Now for more details on the parts.
As a base will serve as a plate with the bar mount with clamps, on which will be located the chain. To the bar mounts a bracket with a swivel mechanism and screws for adjustments. To this fixture we mount a saw with a handle. That’s pretty much it. Don’t forget to observe the safety precautions at work.
- Time for sharpening (longer than with a stationary machine);
- Longer sharpening time;
- If the link is badly damaged, you can’t sharpen it quickly by hand.
If you can’t make your own machine, for whatever technical reason, you can always use the sharpening kits that come with your chainsaw, or buy a special kit in a store. Of course, this method consumes a lot of your valuable time and effort.
For the procedure to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to follow some rules of sharpening:
- The chain must be set at the proper angle, and there are different values for each fixture.
- The blade is then precisely aligned with the edge.
- The machine should be switched on, but the teeth of the equipment are automatically locked in the set position.
Sharpening chains will extend their life and usefulness, but it must be done in a timely manner.