AC compressor pulley bearing replacement mazda 6

AC compressor compressor bearing replacement

Practically all motorists sooner or later collide with a necessity to replace a bearing of an air conditioner compressor. There are two reasons of its failure. The first and main thing is heavy working conditions. Second. water intrusion. In principle, there is a third reason. Poor design. On some models of compressors they put single-row bearings, which is absolutely unacceptable (Toyota Yaris, some Fiat, etc.).). Although there are “beautiful” ways out of the situation, but this is a separate topic. So, you have a humming air conditioner compressor bearing. Certainly, it is necessary to change it. But how to do it qualitatively and cheaply? It all depends on the specific case and the make of car, but there are general recommendations:

Recommendation. Do not allow the bearing to fail, since 70% of the time, additional costs will be incurred. The matter is that a collapsed air conditioner bearing disturbs axial alignment and compressor’s pulley starts to rub on pressure plate and clutch. As a result all rubber parts and copper winding of the clutch burn out and deep grooves are formed on the metal parts. Sometimes the fit is also broken and even the gland is damaged (from the temperature). In such cases, it is cheaper to replace the entire compressor.

Recommendation. Use genuine bearings. As a rule, they are Japanese brands NSK, NACHI, NTN. Although it’s worth mentioning that the “correct” Chinese analogues are pretty good.

Recommendation. Do not try to replace the air conditioner compressor bearing by yourself. Despite the apparent simplicity of the operation, you are likely to fail to perform it qualitatively. Also, 70% of the time you need special pullers. You hardly know the right distance between the pulley and the pressure plate, the tricks of the punching and the right fulcrums. Most likely you will bend a pulley or a pressure plate, or you won’t be able to remove it at all. If you want to save some money, take the compressor off and bring it to a mechanic, or at least get some advice.

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Change of electromagnetic clutch of mazda 3 air conditioner compressor

There are a lot of instructions on the internet for repairing electromagnetic clutches and replacing bearings in the pulley, etc.But only on 2 liter engines. At 1.6 there are almost no instructions. And all because the repair is much different from the 2-liter versions, in some ways it is even more difficult, but everything is feasible.

One day, the conditioner in my car began to work with failures. In a strong heat it was tightly shut off and showed the ambient temperature. minus 40 degrees, respectively, the air conditioner stopped working, this problem was cured by simple replacement of the sensor of outside temperature.

Later the problem began to appear again, in a strong heat turned off the air conditioner, I sinned that if it’s hot and I stand in a traffic jam, then there is a heavy load on the engine and therefore the electronics turns off the compressor air conditioner.

But after a while I heard noises when the engine is running. it was clear at once that these were the bearings in the pulleys. Went to the service, where they successfully replaced the bearing in the tensioner pulley and the bearing in the air conditioner compressor pulley.

Literally a month later, the engine appeared grinding when working, open the hood and hear the sound comes from the pulley compressor air conditioner, and then I see that the pulley (roller air conditioner) rotates with vibration, as if a figure of eight. And when the pressure plate goes off, there’s a rattle.At this point it became clear, damage to the pulley and the pressure plate.

Decided to change the pressure plate and pulley, just for my car (1.Separately, these parts are not sold, only a set of clutch, pulley, pressure plate, for the same for other versions separately all shaft. At the service, only for a pulley put up a price tag of 11000 Original and 5000 China. Did not want to buy used. Bought the kit online for 7900

compressor, pulley, bearing, replacement, mazda

We jacked the car up and removed the front right wheel. Unscrew the plastic guard. On engine one.6 The belt goes on all attachments, including air conditioner. And this is the first problem, I will explain why. The two bushes have a separate belt, its removal and installation will not be a problem. And on engine 1.6 engine belt is removed by loosening the belt tensioner. And it is fragile as babka vase, made of an alloy that threads turn like hell.

When loosening the tensioner, I naturally stripped threads of the roller, even though I did not loosen it. I had to remove the tensioner completely and then I saw that he had passed the Crimea and Rym.

First of all it was only held on one of two bolts, because it seems that the thread on it was torn off more than once, cut a shitty new one and again was torn off and so on. In the end there was a hole in the bottom bracket with a Kimberlite tube, so big that the head of the bolt could almost fit through it. HELLO. Of course it was loose, it was vibrating, and I can’t believe the belt didn’t rip. Secondly, the same thing with the roller threads, there also were cut repeatedly, in short “the silent horror”.

As a result, ordered a new tensioner with a roller, the original.Next unscrew 1 bolt that holds the pressure plate, carefully remove it. If it doesn’t come off, you can use Vedyshka, no hammering, etc.п., You’ll bend the pulley and the pressure plate. Take your time and take it off carefully. Be sure to remove and put in a safe place adjustment washers, without them you will not set the gap and everything will either not work or work with a strong rattle and subsequent overheating.

And you can see right away that the inner part of the plate has the most “scraped off” metal, that’s why the rattle. Checking the plate, yes, it is deformed. The pulley is also visually deformed. But why? There are two versions: 1. When the bearing collapsed, the pulley and the pressure plate started to actively rub against each other, which led to deformation.2. At the service, when they removed the stuck tensioning plate, they did it with a hammer and screwdriver, which led to the deformation of both the tensioning plate and the pulley. Well, then they started rubbing against each other, got very hot and deformed even more.

It is possible to drive in such a way, conditioner works, but metal sound irritating and vibrating roller can lead to the bad belt wear and its rupture. So you have to change everything.

To remove the pulley, remove the retaining ring and carefully pull out the pulley. Used a set for removing rings, costs 300 and saves a lot of time.

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After that, remove the pulley, also carefully, evenly in a circle jiggle it, without fanaticism, all by hand, without hammers. After taking it off I saw at once that it was also crooked and moreover the servicemen had pressed the bearing crooked and therefore it started to walk like a figure of eight.

And here’s the next difference from the two-liter versions.

And here is a magnet in front of us, we can see that it is overheated and burned through the circle from heating.

But to remove this sensor has appeared also very difficult, it is pressed by a plate to the compressor, the plate is screwed by 1 bolt which unscrew practically unreal without removal of the compressor. But I showed wit and unscrewed the plate with a rope.I wrapped a piece of string around the plate and pulled to unscrew it, the bolt gave in and unscrewed. The sensor itself is seated on a thin layer of sealant. After that we disconnect the plug and take out the electromagnetic clutch.

Next we take the new electromagnetic clutch and solder to it with the old sensor and connector.

I install a new tensioner with a pulley, screws are lubricated with grease.

Now it is necessary to cast the belt, I killed two hours on this procedure until I thought of an ingenious thing.The whole problem in the throws was that the tensioner threads come off on a “one two three”, the tensioner is new, the spring in it is a beast. The tension of the spanner is not enough significantly, and tighten further danger of tearing the thread on the pulley, I suffered two hours, once it seemed that even broke the thread, I missed the thread, but all passed.

I started thinking. For safe tensioning it is necessary to invent a support, so that when the tensioner is loosened all the load is transferred to it, but not to the bolt and thread of the pulley.

I came up with the following scheme.We’ll put a prop Take a small rod and put one end to the tensioner hole and the other end to the red support. Now let’s put the pipe on the rod to avoid slipping off and damaging the brake pipe. I think the picture is clear.

Now for the final step. To set the clearance of the pressure plate. Unfortunately, I only had one shim for 0.2, and we need to set the clearance to 0.45-0.5.

But I couldn’t set the gap with a standard washer, as the new pressure plate had a longer seating place. The gap was adjusted with 1 washer 1.5 mm.Total gap was set at 0.4mm. The golden mean.Adjusted clearance with the help of these gauges.

Servicing and recharging the air conditioner

If there are no obvious signs of depressurization, you need only to clean and refill the air conditioner of Mazda 6. The best, of course, is to perform the cleaning with a complete disassembly of the system. In this case, you can not only remove the external dirt between the radiator fins, but also internal contamination.

After cleaning air conditioner is assembled again, it is vacuumized (for deinflation of air and water steams from the system) and filled with freon with addition of special refrigeration oil.

If pressure falls quickly after refuelling and conditioner stops working properly because of it, it is necessary to look for leakage. It is better to do it in the service center, where there are special devices. Specialists of car-care center know weak points of different auto models by their experience and first of all they check them. For example, for the Mazda 6, such places are radiator hoses (especially on first-generation cars) and the tubes that pass under the air filter. Welding the rotten tubes or replacing them can completely solve the problem.

This is where it should be:

Mazda 3 compressor work, after clutch repair.

We take a small rod, one end of it rests in the tensioner hole and the other end on a red support. Now we need to remove the pulley: The assembly process is much faster and more enjoyable.

Step by step instructions with photos on how to replace and repair the electromagnetic clutch of the air conditioner compressor, pulley and clutch

Next, 4 nuts that hold the compressor protection Remove the protection and unscrew the 4 studs. You should use the help of an electrician at the service center. Now install the pressure plate.

Now it is necessary to install the belt. It took me two hours to perform this procedure, until I invented an ingenious thing.

Yes, the sentence is complicated, but I think it makes sense and it is clear.

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So, as far as I understand the electromagnet this sold only in a set with a clutch or with the compressor and costs a lot of money. Your money OD will not save, and I will try to help. The breakage is caused by a small blown thermal fuse, which we will unsolder and connect directly. I’m all for it, if someone will buy and solder the same fuse, but what is the trigger temperature I do not know.

Of course, it is more convenient to work in a garage with a pit, but everything is possible in the field, I personally did everything at the cottage. Let’s first unhook the car and take off the right front wheel. And here is the hex: In service, only for one pulley put the price tag 11

I bought a kit on the Internet for the jack of the car, remove the front right wheel. And that’s the first problem, I’ll tell you why. The two buses have a separate belt and its installation and removal is no problem.

And it’s as fragile as a vase, made of an alloy, where the threads turn like hell. When loosening the tensioner, I of course broke the threads of the pulley, even though I did not loosen it properly. It was necessary to remove completely tensioner and here I saw that it has passed the Crimea and Rym. First of all it was holding on to only one of the two bolts since the threads were snapped many times and the new one was cut and snapped all over again. The hole in the lower bracket was so big that almost the head of the bolt went in there.

Of course everything was floppy and vibrating, how come the belt hadn’t torn yet. As a result I ordered a new tensioner with a roller, original one.

Next, unscrew the 1 bolt that holds the pressure plate, carefully remove it, because here had already changed the bearing, took it off without problems. If it won’t come off, wax is your best bet, no hitting with a hammer, etc. It’s easy to remove the bearings, but not too hurriedly. Be sure to remove and put in a safe place adjusting washers, without them you will not set the gap and everything will either not work or work with a strong grinding and subsequent overheating. Checking the plate, yes, it is deformed.

When may need to replace the compressor bearing in Minsk?

Today’s compressor bearings are reliable enough and don’t need any extra maintenance. But they can also fail because of it:

Belt stretching; natural wear of the product; lack of lubricant.

As a consequence of the causes mentioned above the part starts to overheat, the grease starts to thicken and the bearing jams. Exactly these factors provoke a characteristic noise during compressor operation, which is heard from under the hood of the vehicle. And, it can be heard both when the engine is cold and when it is warm.

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If the noise grows worse with time, it is an eloquent sign that the wear of a part is progressing. And when the noise turns into a real howl, it means that the part is almost completely out of order.

Noises in the compressor indicate that it is necessary to urgently replace the bearing of the air conditioner compressor. If it is not done, the compressor packing will break, the clutch will be damaged, and a short circuit can also occur. After a certain period of time the bearing will not only start to seize. it will rotate in one place, deepening the notch in the socket. And then it is necessary to change either a front part of a compressor or the whole assembly.

In addition, the belt can break, the generator, water pump, other mechanisms and units will suffer from excessive vibration. In other words, procrastinating with compressor bearing replacement will hit your significantly.

Some first-time car owners mistakenly think that if these symptoms appear, it is enough to disassemble the part, clean, wash well, lubricate, and that will be enough. But in fact, in the future you will have to repeat this procedure quite often and repeatedly, which is unprofitable and inconvenient. it is much more profitable to replace the bearing in the auto air conditioner compressor.

Why do compressors crack on Mazda

Many owners of Mazda face with unpleasant, annoying crackling of a compressor of air conditioner. Recently, this disease affects more and more cars nothing can be done. Taking into account the mass character of the trouble, we decided at last to dot all the I’s and get to the bottom of the causes of cracking.

To begin with let’s briefly describe the development of disease. As a rule, the first unpleasant calls become noticeable at the moment of switching on of an air conditioner compressor. When the pressure plate is magnetized to the pulley, a short frequent crackle is heard, which immediately disappears. As the factors which promoted the appearance of malfunction, it is possible to name the underfilled system, and also the hot weather or the dirty radiator of a conditioner.

With time, the crackle intensifies and at idle engine speed does not stop. If to give more gas, the compressor stops for a while, then starts cracking again. The system fills up with compressor wear and tear products, and then the process takes an avalanche-like form. The more metal powder builds up in the system, the faster the compressor wears out. It ends up that the compressor simply stops pumping and finally jams.

Many of our customers ask to do anything to save the wretched compressor or at least delay its sad end. In order to understand the essence of the problem, it is necessary to delve into the structure of the compressor.

Mazda is one of the few cars, equipped with a rotary-type air conditioning compressor. The principle of operation of such compressor is fundamentally different from that of a reciprocating compressor. (That’s why owners of e.g. Mercedes or Audi don’t encounter a compressor crackle). There is a different, but not less sad story).

The working chamber of the rotary compressor is something like a cylinder of a two-stroke engine. It’s made of grey cast iron. Inside the chamber, the rotor is eccentrically located. In its body was made three deep slots in which in the radial direction freely move three aluminum compression plates, one for each slot.

Externally, the rotor with plates looks remotely like a flywheel with knives from an electric sledgehammer. When the compressor is on, the plates are pressed against the walls of the chamber solely by centrifugal force. When fully extended, they draw freon gas through an inlet opening in the chamber wall, like a waterwheel. As the rotor rotates, the plates slide into the slots due to the eccentric position of the shaft. The gas volume between the two plates shrinks and is pushed out through the exhaust port.

In the optional order of disassembling from the cracking compressor, we raked out a teaspoon of grey metallic powder from inside, washed all its insides and decided to try to resurrect the unhappy. The initial inspection showed that the walls of the chamber itself were worn, unevenly. If one imagines the chamber cylinder as a clock dial, the first transverse irregularities began at about 7-8 o’clock, then they became deeper and in the immediate vicinity of the exhaust vent took the form of a small step, easily perceptible with the fingers. All the other compressor parts did not arouse any suspicions.

It would seem that the cause of the cracking had been found. Indeed, at first sight, everything is quite simple. Closer to the exhaust vent, the friction between the edge of the plate and the chamber wall increases, there appears a small cavity that increases over time under the action of the wear products suspended in oil. Then, the development gets a character of a stepping stone. The plates smash against this step, making a cracking noise and getting deeper and deeper.

The way out of the situation asked for itself. Not long thinking, we turned the chamber on a coordinate-boring machine, thanks to the thickness reserve of the chamber walls and the length of the plates allowed to do it without any fear. And you only had to remove two or three dozen. The chamber is now back to its ideal cylindrical shape. Overjoyed, we have assembled the compressor, have installed it on the test car. Needless to say, before that we flushed the system and changed the receiver-drier.

We have filled up a conditioner with freon and fresh clean oil. Here it was, the long-awaited moment! I should say that we were 99 per cent sure in the successful outcome of the operation. How disappointed we were when the crackling sounded again:.

We had nothing to do but remove the compressor and disassemble it again.

Now we did something more cunning. We did not completely reassemble the compressor, we just put in the rotor and the blades. We screwed a bolt into the shaft, jammed it in the drill chuck and turned it at various speeds. Only then did we see with our own eyes the real reason for the cracking. And there it was. At low and medium speeds the unfortunate plates for some reason did not want to move out and touch the chamber wall immediately. They flew out of the slots with acceleration, close to the end of the cycle and made a cracking sound, hitting the faces against the wall of the chamber. At low rpm the bumps were at the exhaust vent exactly where the step was before. As the revs were added, the centrifugal force increased and the bump locations shifted counterclockwise to 7-8 o’clock. It turns out that we were in a hurry and mixed up the cause with the consequence.

For the umpteenth time we took out plates which previously did not arouse any suspicions. We started to study them meticulously. On the middle part of their surface there were slight abrasions. With the help of a caliper we failed to determine the loss, only a micrometer helped us.

Wear-out on the plates was some 0.015 0.020 mm. And it was enough to make the plates bite: Frankly speaking, we were upset. Yes, theoretically it is possible to make new plates on a high-precision milling machine, even to process inner surfaces of slots, if necessary. But where to get such machines and such a machinist?? And is the game worth the trouble?? I don’t want to experiment on live machines. The more so that in case of inaccurate processing we have to flush the conditioner and replace the receiver-drier again.

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You have probably already understood the epilogue of our story. This is a compressor replacement. New or used. you decide. If you decide to use a used bearing, prepare yourself for the lottery. If you are lucky enough to find a living compressor consider yourself lucky. The percentage of live vs. dead is approximately 30/70 in favor of the latter.

Remove and repair of a drive of the compressor of air conditioner in Renault Megane 2

Due to bearing backlash, the inner surface of the pulley begins to rub against the surface of the solenoid coil housing 10 as it rotates.

Under the influence of friction the parts are heated, and begins to burn out the insulation of coil winding 8, the coil turns of the electromagnet short circuit and the electromagnet fails.

There are cases of full jamming of the bearing and rotation of bearing inner ring 5 on a landing journals of the compressor cover.

During the operation of the compressor you should pay attention to the extraneous noise during the operation of the air conditioning compressor.

If there is a suspicion, it is necessary to remove a drive belt from a pulley and turn a pulley by hand. It should rotate without noise and without jams. There should be no radial or axial play.

Photo-report: replacing the air conditioner compressor bearing

One of these days the air conditioner of my car started working with failures.

As replacement of the bearing of the muff of the conditioner is not the most ordinary and peculiar enough, I

For safe tensioning it is necessary to invent the support, so that all the load is transferred to it, but not to the bolt and thread of the pulley.

Buy auto part bearing of air conditioner compressor clutch or its analogue on Mazda 3

Next unscrew 1 bolt that holds the clutch plate, gently remove it, because here have already changed the bearing, removed it without problems. If it is not removed, Vedyshka will help you, no hammering.

Gently, take your time to take everything off. Be sure to remove and put in a safe place adjusting washers, without them you will not set the gap and everything will either not work, or work with a strong rattle and subsequent overheating.

Checking the plate, yes, it is deformed. The pulley pulley is also visually deformed. When the bearing collapsed, the pulley and pressure plate started to actively rub against each other, which led to the deformation.

In the service, when they were removing the stuck pressure plate it was done by a crude method with a hammer and screwdriver, which led to the deformation of both the pressure plate and the pulley.

Well then they started rubbing against each other, got very hot and deformed even more. Driving this way is possible, the air conditioner works, but the sound of metal when it works is annoying, and the vibrating roller can lead to heavy wear and tear on the belt and its breakage. That’s why you have to change everything.

To remove the pulley, remove the retaining ring and gently pull out the pulley. Used a ring remover kit, costs and saves a lot of time. A set for removing of lock rings After that, we take off the pulley, also carefully, evenly in a circle rotate it, without fanaticism, all by hands, without hammers.

After taking it off, I saw at once that it was also crooked and moreover, the servicemen had pressed the bearing crooked and therefore it started to walk like a figure of eight. And here is the next difference from 2-liter versions. Full size Burned out solenoid. There’s three bolts holding it up. I had them stuck, I unscrewed one bolt and the rest were safely flattened, I had to kill 4 hours to get a flat screwdriver relief on them.

Mazda 3, air conditioner is working after small modification.

Took a lot of trouble with those bolts. Replaced them with hex bolts at the top It was getting dark. Toward nightfall, I unscrewed them.

And here’s the magnet in front of us, we can see that it’s very badly overheated and burned through the circles from the heat. The old and new electromagnetic clutch. And now the next difference from the two-liter versions. As replacement of a bearing of a muff of the conditioner is not the most ordinary and rather original business, I had to make the separate record on this theme.

So the first calls or even squeaks notifying my delicate hearing of a bearing replacement started way back in the winter of this year.

It was in winter, because with the onset of cold weather, during heating a squeaking sound was heard from the front right wheel. I was not particularly annoyed by this sound, because after a short time of the engine work it mysteriously disappeared, and with the onset of summer and went into hibernation.

Since then, every time I heard it, I put off replacing it until later. Here comes winter yr. Not in my case.

Partial repair of Mazda 6 air conditioner compressor

The compressor drive pulley 2 is mounted on a double row ball bearing and constantly rotates when the engine is running.

When the air conditioner is on, the torque is transmitted from the pulley to the compressor rotor through a friction clutch with an electromagnetic drive.

If the system is normal, when you switch on air conditioner a “click” is heard. this is clutch pressure plate 1 of muff under the action of an electromagnet comes in contact with a pulley 2 of a drive and a rotor of the compressor starts to rotate.

But during operation of air conditioner the following malfunctions of compressor can occur.

If when the conditioner is switched off, during rotation the clutch makes some strange noises, gets warm or there is smell of burning, then it is possible that bearing begins to ruin

In this case it is necessary to replace the bearing. In some neglected cases, it may be necessary to replace the compressor clutch assembly or its component parts.

If you do not hear a click after turning on the air conditioner, the following problems are possible:

Mazda Protege A/C Compressor Bearing Replacement. EP. 1

If the clutch rotates easily and freely, but when you switch on air conditioner you hear a distinct noise or even the engine stops, most likely the compressor is jammed.

The internal pump part of the compressor can not be repaired. In this case, the compressor will have to be replaced.

a click is heard, the clutch rotates a shaft of the compressor easily, but cooling of air in the interior does not occur. In this case the compressor runs idle without pumping anything.

Only an experienced technician with special control and diagnostic equipment can determine this malfunction.

The cause of malfunction can be determined most accurately after a complete diagnosis at a specialized service center for repair of car air conditioners.

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