Bosch ve fuel injection pump adjustment by hand

Bosch tvs plunger change with your own hands

So, I want to tell about Bosch pump VP44 which is “beloved” by many people. I will tell you about my experience and imho. And it does not claim to be scientific literature. it’s just the result of my researchI’m sure diesel specialists will criticize everything I wrote here. but I’ll repeat that this is my IMHO as I see it. All the more reason to write from memory. There aren’t many pictures and I will add them later.

At one time the VP44 pump. was a breakthrough in terms of fuel efficiency and environmental friendliness. When it appeared, the reliability of its mechanical part left much to be desired. The pump has been overhauled and many parts were replaced under warranty. The pump was promising by the fact that it could be used with different fuel systems, different settings for different cars, etc., given the presence of its own ECU.д. Not to mention the fact that this pump provides a fairly high injection pressure.As a result, this pump was installed on a huge number of car brands: BMW, Rover, FORD, MAN, Mitsubishi, Opel, AUDI, Mercedes, Renault, Dodge.

The main problems with these pumps are mechanical or electrical. If with the mechanical all is clear. it’s wear, but with the electrical not so Electrical failure. is most often a burnout of the transistor on the board ECU fuel injection pump The main reason for the “burnout” I would call the banal overheating At the same time from overheating certain car brands suffer more, than all over the board (all remember about the radiator with cooling of diesel at the M47?). Some literature and forums mention that transistors are cooled by the fuel. Some evidence that this is the case can be seen by looking at how the top of the pump and its ECU are arranged.

As to a mechanical part. so as any mechanism in which there is a friction, it will wear out. And if you consider that the lubricant in our case is diesel fuel. everything is clear here, because with each transition to the new “Euro” standards lubricating properties of diesel fuel decreases, t.к. the amount of sulfur in the fuel decreases and I am not very confident in the integrity of the producers of fuel oils in terms of adding lubricating additives.

The internal mechanical design of the pump is quite interesting. It is sort of 2 pumps in one: rotary booster pump (creates preliminary, “intracasing” pressure for the needs of the pump) and the main plunger pump which is fed by fuel pre-injected booster pump (the main plunger pump already gives fuel to injectors).Main wearing parts in the pump are the rotary booster pump, the lead-in piston, and as a rule, the parts with which they come into friction. Further it is already all logical. the wear products clog channels in the pump and filters in them. Because of the wear itself, the fuel pressure drops after the booster pump And if you take into account that the injection advance angle changes due to fuel pressure from the booster pump (the advance piston is shifted by fuel), then the problems begin here. The plunger pairs in the main pump are poorly worn. Probably, the products of wear and tear don’t get to them through the filters and jams Even with wear and tear the car can go on! Not as much as it’s supposed to. The main thing is that the fuel needs to be injected in the cylinders. But in the case of electrical problems. usually it’s worse. As a rule, if a transistor in the ECU burns out, the car won’t run. Re-soldering the transistor to another does not always help. at least there are many failures and successes. As far as I understand, the original transistor is hard to find and expensive, and cheap analogs do not live long because of the same overheating. And overheating is most often caused by the fuel injection pump being bled, i.e.е. The fuel does not perform the function of cooling the ECU.

My problem was that for over a year I drove with the injection advance angle is not what it should be. I found a time when I will not really need the car and decided to rebuild my pump. I’ll tell you right away that I decided to overhaul more because of my fan, the desire to dig around and capabilities. :))))The price of pumps varies greatly, from 600 for a rebuilt pump under order in Belarus, to 3000 for rebuilt by Bosch in Exist. There are different proposals and intermediate prices: scrap yards from 22 thousand, E-Bay from 33 thousand for a restored pump. are only examples. I think how to look for teach no one.The reason for the deflection of the advance angle of injection, mentioned at the diagnostic, is the wear of the advance angle of injection piston. It seems that the part is not so expensive, but it is rather painful to change it because of the need to remove and disassemble the pump.

Although, if you are going to take the whole engine off and disassemble it, it doesn’t matter. :))))If you want to describe the process of removing the HPF in brief, the sequence is as follows:1. Unscrew everything that is in the way according to the TIS to access the HPF2. Set TDC at the timing marks.3. Lock the crankshaft in place4. Fix the shaft of the fuel injection pump with the bolt on it.5. Screw in the pump extractor, fix it but don’t tighten it6. Unscrew the HPF from the engine, but do not remove it (or rather, do not remove it)7. Now you use a puller to fix the pinion and squeeze the shaft out of it8. “Catch the crankshaft so it doesn’t fall off. Do NOT remove the puller! You can only unscrew the center bolt from it.

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Now that you have the pump in your hands, you can carefully clean it and the ICE from the outside. At least you can see the engine number :))) If you have already bought a repair kit for the pump. use the plugs from the kit and close all the fittings and outlets on the pump so that no dirt can get there. After you have cleaned the pump take it to a clean place, where there is a workbench with a vice.

[b]Cleanliness is a must![/b] I strongly advise to prepare a lot of clean containers and rags for storing everything that will be taken out of the pump.

bosch, fuel, injection, pump

Then just gently clamp the pump in a vise with the shaft down by the housing. And start disassembling.1. To be sure, mark what and how it was positioned. Immediately mark the position of the fuel injection pump shaft.2. First I unscrewed the valves from the pump. The wire of one of the valves goes under the screws that hold the distributor. I took turns loosening and tightening the screws to gradually remove the wire. The valves are gently pinched with a screwdriver and gradually, in a circular motion, pry them open until they come out. If all screws are unscrewed, they are only supported by the rubber seals.3. Carefully remove the ECU, t.к. From it goes a thin line inside the pump to the shaft position sensor. It also should be unscrewed and then ECU together with valves can be carefully removed somewhere not to damage.4. Remove the distributor. To do this, unscrew diagonally, alternating the four screws securing it. Next, we take 2 screwdrivers, pry it up from both sides, alternating the position of the screwdrivers on the diagonal. When you see the first rubber seal on the divider, start carefully pulling the divider up without tilting it sideways! Т.к. Remember or mark the position of the divider shaft and on this shaft are the plungers that can fall out.5. How to remove it. fix the position of the shaft on the distributor, a place with the plungers on the shaft I wrapped with electrical tape so they are not lost.6. Next, you need to pull out 2 rollers with shoes. I pulled them out with a clean magnet.7. Now we have to pull out the bearing. A little oil to make it easier. Here you either use a reverse hammer, or turn the pump and, by the principle of inertia, hit it lightly against something soft. so that the bearing will fall out by inertia. Be careful, because.к. and the shaft and washers can fall out.Old:

Then take out the starting washer, and another metal plate (driving washer) under it, if they didn’t fall out with the bearing. Between these plates there were rollers with washers.9. The pump is still in a vise in the same position with the shaft down. Inside the pump we can see the cam ring of the crank mechanism of injection advance, the sheath of which enters into the slot of the advance-injection piston. That’s what keeps you from pulling the clip out.10. Unscrew the cap on the side, which closes the valve of the advance angle regulator. Take out the valve and the springs. And under it is the stroke advance piston.11. Turn the lead piston around its axis so that it can tilt it a little and pull up the lead clamp from the pump. You can turn the pump upside down and the cage may come out of the pump with the shaft. Remember the pump shaft12. Now you can unscrew the shaft locking bolt and pull out the pump shaft with the shim.13. Unscrew the swap pump support ring and pull it out.14. Under this ring just there is a rotary booster pump. It consists of the rotor, the outer cage and the rotor “blades. To begin with we memorize the position and carefully pull out the blades with springs and make sure they do not fly away!15. Then remember the position and pull out the rotor. We also remember the position of the outer ring of the booster pump and take it out. The oil makes it easier. You can use the reverse hammer principle, but very carefully, because.к. there is very little clearance and it fits very snugly in the pump casing.Now we can say that the whole pump is disassembled. It remains only to unscrew plugs and valves and start examination of all parts for wear. Wash, clean, dry and defect the parts, preferably using measuring tools. Particular attention should be paid to the pump housing its channels and grids in them, the working surfaces in the area of the booster pump and the advance injection piston. If there is heavy wear and tear it is better to buy a new body or pump Whatever you can afford.

There is nothing much to say about mesh cleanliness. you can see everything there. It is very desirable to blow them with good air pressure, but so that the dirt flies out! Т.е. not to clog the channels in the pump. Also, it is very desirable to blow good pressure through all the ducts in the pump housing. But first you need to know exactly which channel goes where, so if there is dirt in it, you won’t clog it even more.Many diesel masters strongly recommend to buy also a repair kit for a distributor. This includes the diaphragm, 2 rubber seals, retaining ring. To remove the diaphragm, you must remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver and the diaphragm will either be removed by normal shaking or you must pump air through one of the 3 side channels on the distributor (close the other 2).

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Put the new rubbers and the diaphragm with grease and put the distributor aside.! Useful about the diaphragm.

Now we can buy necessary parts on the basis of detail defectiveness. Some parts I would buy at once ([u]Numbers for Bosch pump 0470504020[/u]):1. Fuel distributor kit 467045032 Price: 545r.2. bearing 460925000 Price: 580r.3. Roller shoe (2 pcs. needed) 461046002 Price: 510r.4. Roller (2 pcs needed) 463125025 Price: 70r.5. Injection advance coupling piston 467045002 Price: 3690r.6. Prime pump 467035018 Price: 8700r.7. Pump jockey ring 460126003 Price: 710r.8. Repair kit of gaskets for fuel injection pump 467045046 Price: 990r.9. Oil seal for fuel injection pump shaft 460285006 Price: 135r.

Starting adjusting washers to adjust the pump shaft backlash after the assembly of fuel injection pump. I think the backlash should be within 0,1-0,4mm. I had a 2.7mm:1 washer in the pump. Starting washer (2.5mm) 4601250432. Starting washer (2.6mm) 4601250443. Starting washer (2,8mm) 4601250464. Starting washer (2,9 mm) 460125047

Washers are usually priced around 200r, but are hard to find in stock.

Also, there are other parts that may need to be replaced:1. Cam cage 460254166 Price: 11000r.2. pump housing 465230957 Price: 10400r.3. Shaft angle sensor 467255103 Price: 5000r.4. Valve 468434055 Price: 20800r.If you have to buy this, you better look for a new pump right away :)))) t.к. the price is outrageous.

If all parts are available, you need clean diesel, oil, tools, repair kits, beer and you can assemble the pump. Assembly must be done in cleanliness, and use as a lubricant diesel or mineral oil 2T.

You should mount the pump body in a vice and assemble it step by step according to your marks, with oil, so as not to mix it up.1. 2) priming pump. I oiled the inside of the pump housing, and taped the priming pump with masking tape on top and lowered it completely into the pump housing in its place. The painter’s tape is easy to remove. This is so that you do not have to separately put the outer ring of the pump, then the inner and then even plungers and springs cram into it.2. Align the outer cage with our marks and holes, and screw the booster pump support ring on top with the melting point of the pump ECU, with the lettering facing up.3. Now changing the pump shaft seal.4. Install the shaft with the shim.5. Now we need to install the injection advance piston with the spring ring inside the pump.6. Insert the cam cage at an angle, melting it into the advance piston slot. Lower the shaft so that the guide pin of the cage fits into the latch of the shaft encoder ring. After installing the cage, be sure to check that the ring on the shaft for the advance angle sensor moves with the cam cage.7. Reinstall the fuel advance valve and screw the cover back on.8. Install the metal plate (washer) with the inscription facing downwards.9. Putting the casters and shoes back in place.10. Put the starting washer with the lettering down.11. Install the bearing.12. Carefully install the divider according to the marks that we made and not to lose the plungers from it. At the same time look that the key on the shaft of the distributor exactly hits the driving washer under the rollers.13. Gradually screw the distributor into place. When screwing it will be deposited in the pump.14. Check axial play of the shaft. Should be in the range of 0.1-0.4mm. If it is larger, a larger washer must be used. Also the shaft of the divider should rotate together with the pump shaft, this may be checked when installing the divider. The shaft should rotate by hand tightly, but without wedging or catching on something.15. Next screw the shaft position sensor and the HPF ECU in their places.16. Install valves and sensors ECU one by one. At the same time we are pulling the lead of advance fuel injection valve under the bolts that fasten the distributor, loosening these screws in turn.17. Screw the rest of the plugs and valves on the pump casing. Check all the screws, bolts and sensors.Now align the shaft and make sure everything matches up. In idea. the flow to the 1st injector should be right near our first mark of the shaft.

Further, it is necessary to drive pump for tuning in Bosch service, where there is a stand for VP44 pump. This is necessary, t.к. changed the mechanical internals of the pump. Although, even just at the disassembly recommend to go to the stand. Also, you need to ask the service department to fix the shaft after adjustment. This position is exactly the TDC position and the pump can be installed on the machine. I will tell you right away. it is expensive, but after this pump is fine tuned. And give the printout from the stand

After installing the HPF, connected everything, only the nozzle tube is not screwed. Don’t forget that a blocked pump should be set at TDC position of the 1st cylinder. And after installation, you can only unlock the pump!

Turn the ignition on to fill up with diesel. pump in the tank is pumping, filling the cup, HPF and so gradually fills everything. So I had 20 minutes everything cranked. Watch for air and bubbles in the supply-return tubes to the fuel pump.Then started to twist the starter motor until from the tube at the nozzle comes fuel oil.If it’s leaking, we screw the pipes and everything else that we didn’t put in.

And a lot of pumping literature on Bosch pumps. :)))

Bosch Injector adjustment may be needed if there is bad fuel or water in the fuel system, if the injectors work incorrectly because of clogging or wear, also with insufficient pump pressure. Also the plunger pair may be faulty and therefore need to be completely replaced when repairing.

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Often, if one part is broken, there may be a problem with another part. That is why it is better to contact specialists in time, if fuel leakage is detected. If you do not notice this problem in time, it will require costly parts replacement. If the tightness is compromised, the pressure that affects the performance of the pump decreases, and can also lead to fires in the engine compartment.

Besides, after the Bosch fuel injection pump repair it is necessary to adjust fuel injection pump, which is carried out with a special stand that allows to measure with high accuracy the angles of the preliminary ram stroke, the start of fuel supply, etc. It is necessary to make adjustments strictly with the specific type of device.

Tvd adjustment on the Ford Transit

One of the main elements in diesel cars is a high pressure fuel pump. This unit is fully responsible for fuel injection into the engine. to be more precise, it performs two tasks exactly determines the moment of injection and presses the necessary volume of fuel, creating sufficient pressure for normal operation of the power unit. Over time, accumulator systems emerged that allowed the injection timing function to be completely transferred to the vehicle’s injectors.

When to adjust?

High pressure fuel pump is a very precise mechanism, which requires periodic checks of operability and adjustment. As a rule, if there are any problems with the fuel system or the engine motorists immediately blame the fuel pump and proceed to its adjustment. In fact, the cause of the malfunction can be anything electronic systems of the car, the engine itself, and so on.

What it means? Adjustment of the fuel injection pump is a very delicate and complicated work, which should be performed only when the following signs of malfunction appear:

In addition, the adjustment of fuel injection pump is carried out necessarily after the repair work of the node. At the same time, be careful when performing the work, because the economy of your power unit, its power and service life depends directly on its quality and accuracy.

Unfortunately, most motorists do not dare to adjust the fuel pump with their own hands. They go to service stations and throw away a lot of money to pay for services of specialists. In fact, there is no need to do this at all. If you act according to a given algorithm, then the work can be done with your own hands.

Features of regulation of HPF on Ford Transit (HPF BOSH VE)

One very important thing to remember when performing HPF adjustments is to always leave the marks. In this case it is possible at least to return to the previous settings (before the intervention into the system). As we have already mentioned, adjustment of the fuel pump is a very delicate process. Incorrect actions can lead to a complete failure of the entire system.

So, the sequence of actions should be as follows:

BOSCH VE-Pump Calibration

  • Flush the high pressure fuel pump well with special compounds (and it is desirable to do it directly). The main purpose of this work is to remove all dirt from the inside of the fuel pump and clean the injectors. If the quality of the cleaning is good, the result will be audible by a smooth idling.
  • Check that the flywheel, camshaft, and fuel pump are correctly aligned. Try to set the timing a little sooner, to be sure. This usually results in more accurate operation of the fuel injection pump.
  • Perform diagnosis of low pressure relief valve. Do a few simple manipulations here, unscrew the valve and inspect it. It is possible that the valve can get stuck and stay open for extended periods of time. In this case, make adjustments to get it closed. For this purpose you will need a small hammer, tapping on the outside of the valve to achieve closure of the inlet opening.
  • After the previous work is done, adjust the cyclic feed rate. Tear off the seal (if it is not there yet), unscrew the counter nut of the cyclic feed (in this case you increase the feed) or screw it in (the cyclic feed decreases). Reach normal rpm on the warmed up engine, which should make 780-800 rpm. If there is an onboard computer, this is only a plus, you can make more accurate adjustments. If the power unit is not warmed up, rpm will slightly decrease to the level of 720-730.
  • Adjust the hydraulic retarder. To do this, remove the cowl, unscrew the locknut, make adjustments and put the locknut back in place. The pin should be held while you do the work, so that it does not twist. Turning pin against the arrow direction decreases traction, but also the appetite of the car. If you turn it the other way, the opposite happens, the traction and the voracity increase.
  • Pay special attention to the exhaust while pressing the gas pedal at idle. There should be no smoke. As for traction and flow rate (we mentioned above), here adjust as desired.

That’s all. It won’t take you more than 1-2 hours to adjust the fuel injection system on a Ford Transit (if it’s a leisurely job). But the main thing here is the utmost attention, strict adherence to the instructions and no rush. Good luck.

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