Drive a nail into a concrete wall without a drill

The Secrets of Proper Nailing

A nail will go perfectly into the surface, not to deform it and not to bend itself, and the hammer will not cause injury if you follow a few simple tips.

If the experience in hammering nails is not so much, it will not be superfluous at first to put a marking and a pencil to designate a place of the future fastening. Next, the nail is leaning against the marked point, the thumb and forefinger are held at its base, and the little finger rests on the surface for greater stability. You should start with moderate movements in order to drive the nail 3-4 mm into the surface, and when it is holding on, you can proceed to more powerful strokes. Professionals say that the less are the strokes, the more firmly the nail will sit, so try to aim the nail head better, and, holding the hammer by the end of the handle (so the strike will be stronger and require less effort), make a couple of carpal and then 2-3 strong elbow strokes.

Probably, many beginners are concerned about the safety of their fingers when hammering nails, because holding them at the flat bar in case of not too accurate strike means getting injured. Therefore, the first times you can use improvised means to hold the nail: it can be an ordinary clothespin, comb or even pliers. By the way, the latter will also help if you need to hammer a long nail, so it does not bend: just hold the product near the head.

It is important to choose a nail of a suitable length. It should enter at least one-third, or better two-thirds, of the surface to which the fastener is attached. If you hammer the nail at an angle, it increases the reliability of the connection.

The nailing process itself quickly becomes automatic, and problems may arise only when working in hard-to-reach places, such as when you need to install a fastener in a recess, in a corner, etc.д. In this case, a steel core and a metal tube can be helpful, which simplifies the process as much as possible: put the tube on the nail, and the core against the nail head, and then proceed as usual, hitting the core with a hammer. You can use a nut with a diameter slightly larger than the nail head and a bolt instead of a tube and a core. If you want to hammer the nail into the spring bar, you can use a screw clamp to hammer the nail into it, or use a solid hammer as a support.

Often nails tend to bend and even break. There are several reasons for this: too strong or inaccurate tapping, or too hard a surface. Therefore, if it is necessary to create a mount in a concrete or brick wall, it is better to use dowels. So, on a concrete wall, first mark the necessary place, and then use the peorator to drill the necessary hole: the drill has a diameter that must match the same figure for the dowel. The depth of the resulting hole should slightly exceed the length of the dowel. Then clean the dust, hammer the dowel and install the nail. A brick wall can be drilled with an impact drill, and it is advisable to make a hole in ]brick[/anchor], as masonry mortar is not sufficiently reliable place for fixing.

hammer in the nail with a cork

In the case where the replacement of the nail is not acceptable, resort to the help of a wooden plug, called by many chopik.

It is cut out of wood and adjusted to the required size.

The length corresponds to the depth of the hole, one tip is shaped like a cone for better penetration.

The width of the other edge is left 2-3 mm larger than the hole. In the absence of desire or opportunity to make a chop yourself, you can buy it in a store, selecting the appropriate size.

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The sharp tip of the chopper can be kerfed and a small wedge can be inserted. Getting to the bottom of the hole, it will increase the strength of the connection chop and the wall.

So, hammering a nail into a concrete wall without a drill will be much easier. The soft, wooden surface of the chopstick will replace the hard material of the wall. You just need to carefully, without hurrying to hammer a nail and you’re done.

In the hammered hole you can easily screw a screw or a screw. It is more convenient to do this with the help of special plastic plugs, which are sold in stores. Then you don’t need to use a dowel pin. After inserting the dowel into the recess created by the rammer, the self-tapping screw can easily be screwed in.

The use of wooden plugs is also not necessary. It is enough to fill the hole with mortar, consisting of cement or alabaster, and then insert the screw, the screws of which are wrapped in advance with wire and blotted with raster.

How to cover walls with decorative plaster with your own hands

A hole in the wall without drilling, dust and dirt. at

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How to get the dowel out of the concrete

Few people know how to properly remove an old dowel from the wall. The main thing is to try to choose a simple, reliable and economical method. To achieve the result will help skills for installing and dismantling fasteners, experience in owning electrical and hand tools will come in handy.

Several types are available specifically for concrete, they always use a nail as a rod. Reliable operation is guaranteed if you choose the right design based on the size of the plane and the mass of the structure to be hooked up, and mount it properly.

Before you begin, you must assess the quality and thickness of the surface. The presence of hidden electrical wiring and metal fittings is the reason for changing the location. Sometimes it is not easy to hammer the dowel neatly without damaging the adjoining part of the wall.

The following options are most commonly used:

  • Spacer, suitable for a solid wall. It will assert itself inside it by expanding the plastic body. Plastic sleeve made with a tapered metal core or threaded.
  • Universal. The embedded nail fits tightly against the walls of the hole. Suitable for loose, hollow walls.

Insert the dowel can be drilled with a drill with the function of a chisel or peorator, a concrete drill, a hammer. It is correct to perform the work in this sequence:

  • using a peorator to punch a hole with a diameter similar to the sleeve, and a depth exceeding the length of the fastener by 0.5 cm;
  • Clean the resulting recess from dirt and dust;
  • fix the body of the dowel with a hammer until its edge is aligned with the surface of the wall;
  • The nail is hammered into the body as far as it will go.

If you follow all the rules of installation, it will be difficult to get it out.

How to hammer a nail into a concrete wall without a hammer

Nails for aerated concrete or concrete are quite different from products intended for fixing other bases. In order not to make a mistake when installing them, it is worth learning a little more about these rod elements.

Varieties of fasteners for concrete

Trying to hammer an ordinary construction nail, it becomes obvious: the idea is a bad one. it does not go into the wall, but only bends. Classic wire hardware is made of mild steel, which is characterized by low strength. In the case of elements designed to be immersed in concrete, the material used is distinctly different. Only high-carbon metal that has been heat-treated, i.e. hardened, is used.

The fact that nails are made of hardened stainless steel makes it unnecessary to cover them with a protective layer. However, in some situations it is relevant to use additional thickness.

  • Traditional (just hardened). applicable to any external / internal works, except for constructions with excessively high humidity;
  • Galvanized (minimum layer of zinc 5-6 microns). used in wet rooms and production facilities;
  • Brass-plated nails. they have an aesthetic golden shade, the highest resistance to moisture and acids, and are worth installing in places where exceptional resistance to corrosion is required (for example, in shipbuilding).
  • flat. suitable for holding light structures;
  • round. the standard version, capable of withstanding high loads;
  • Square nails. as good as “cylinder nails” in terms of functionality, but with a different cross-section;
  • Jagged. used in very hard material, such as heavy concrete.
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Speaking about such parameters as weight, length, diameter, the range is unspeakably wide. For which reason there is no single standard size? For different constructions, you need to select elements of the right size.

drive, nail, concrete, wall, drill

Special attention should be paid to the classification according to the material of which the dowel is made. This spacer part provides a secure attachment of the nail and is usually made of:

In the first case is a hollow cylindrical rod, expanding in the process of installation from the middle. The top is specially fitted with a cuff to prevent it from falling into the drilled hole. Fasteners of this type have a thread on the surface, and their heads are characterized by the presence of a slot. a depression in the head. All this makes it easy to install, even with a screwdriver. recommendations on the selection of dowels for aerated concrete you will find in this article.

Unlike fasteners with plastic dowels, metal ones are characterized by a rod with a smooth surface, without threads. Expansion occurs when hammered into a wall. The reverse process. removal. is quite difficult, and thus implies long term use. They are appropriate when working with very hard, solid materials.

A variety of metal fasteners are those that involve fixation with a pneumatic gun. Their basis is a thick, sharpened rod at the end with an enlarged cap, which prevents the sinking. Retaining washer included as standard equipment. Pneumatic pistol installation is the quickest, most uncomplicated process necessary to create structures of the highest strength. However, such elements are not intended for repeated placement.

How to hammer a nail into a concrete wall with a hammer

Nails for aerated concrete or concrete are quite different from products designed for fixing other substrates. In order to avoid mistakes when installing them, it is worth knowing a bit more about these bars.

Variety of fasteners for concrete

Trying to hammer an ordinary construction nail, it becomes obvious: this is a bad idea. it does not go into the wall, but only bends. Classic wire hardware is made of low carbon steel, which is characterized by low strength. In the case of elements intended to be immersed in concrete, the material used is distinctly different. Only high-carbon metal, heat-treated, i.e. hardened, is used.

The fact that the nails are made of hardened stainless steel makes it unnecessary to cover them with a protective layer. However, in some situations it is relevant to use additional thickness.

  • Traditional (simply hardened). applicable to any exterior/interior work except for structures with excessively high humidity;
  • galvanized (minimum zinc layer of 5-6 microns). used in damp rooms and industrial facilities;
  • Brass-coated, with esthetic golden color, high resistance to moisture and acids, worth to be installed in places where exclusive anticorrosive properties are required (for example, in shipbuilding).
  • flat. suitable for holding light structures;
  • round. the standard version, capable of withstanding high loads;
  • square. in functional qualities are not inferior to “cylinder nails”, but have a different cross-section;
  • grooved. used in the case of a particularly dense material. heavy concrete.

Speaking about such parameters as weight, length, diameter, the range is unspeakably wide. for which reason there is no single standard size? For different structures it is necessary to choose elements of a suitable size.

How to hammer a nail into a wall without cracking the plaster. step by step

Separate attention deserves classification according to the material of which the dowel is made. This spacer part provides a secure attachment of the nail and is usually made of:

In the first case, the dowel represents a hollow cylindrical rod that expands from the middle of the dowel during installation. The top is specially equipped with a collar to avoid falling into the drilled hole. this kind of fastener has a threaded surface, and their heads are characterized by a slot. a depression in the head. All this makes it easy to install, even with a screwdriver. recommendations on the choice of dowels for aerated concrete can be found in this article.

drive, nail, concrete, wall, drill

Unlike fasteners with plastic dowels, metal ones have a rod with a smooth surface, without threads. Expansion occurs when hammering into the wall. The reverse process. dismantling. is quite difficult, so it implies a long operation. They are particularly suitable for work with very hard, solid materials.

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A variety of metal fasteners are fasteners that involve securing with a pneumatic gun. Their base is a thick, sharpened rod at the end with an enlarged cap that prevents them from falling through. A lock washer is a must. Installation with a pneumatic gun. the fastest, non-consuming process required to create structures of the highest strength. However, these elements are not designed for repositioning.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into a concrete wall. How to fix a self-tapping screw in the wall without a wall plug

When you want to screw a screw in a concrete wall, and a suitable plastic dowel at hand is not, the screw can be fixed in the wall and without it.

Selecting the drill

Choose a drill with a diameter of 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the screw and fasten it in the chuck of the electric drill or torch. When using an electric drill in drilling mode, both a universal drill bit and a special drill bit for concrete will do.

If the hole in the wall will be carried out peoratorom or impact drill in peorator mode, it is better to refuse to use special drill bit on concrete, because after the first blows hard alloy layer on the end of the drill will fall off completely.

It is better to use for this purpose a special drill bit for torators with grooves on the cylindrical surface of its shank.

Drilling a hole in the wall

Drill a hole at least as deep as the length of the screw. During drilling, try to avoid deviating from the axis of drilling, otherwise the diameter of the hole will be much larger than necessary and the screw in the wall will not hold.

If you do not have a drill or torch, use a drill bit or an old drill bit of the proper size to make the hole.

Bring the drill perpendicular to the wall and hit the shank with a hammer 2-3 times hard, then turn the drill around and hit again 2-3 times, until you get the hole the desired depth.

Removing debris from the hole

Remove the concrete dust and other debris from the drilled hole. Insert the drill into the hole and twist in the direction of the hole when removing it.

You can do easier. close your eyes and blow into the hole with your mouth.

Screwing in the self-drilling screw

To make sure the screw is securely in place, insert a toothpick or match of the proper length into the hole. Wooden rollers or wood chips are also suitable.

Screw the screw into the hole with a screwdriver. It is not recommended to use an electric screwdriver for this purpose, unless the list of its modes does not include very low RPM.

When working with an electric screwdriver at high speed, the screwdriver will quickly reach the bottom of the hole, catch in it, and in this. Next

When you have everything you need

In order to drill a concrete wall, you need a drill and a drill, without them, this work can not be done. If there is a peorator, then the procedure will take no more than a couple of minutes:

  • fix the drill;
  • If it is important, put a limiter nozzle;
  • To mark the hole with a construction pencil;
  • If you have a drill bit, it is desirable to make a notch;
  • start drilling.

During work, it is recommended to increase the speed slowly so that the tool is not subjected to unnecessary stress. In addition, if you rotate quickly at the start, the cutting edge will start to shift, which can lead to misalignment.

drive, nail, concrete, wall, drill

About the same procedure is done with an impact drill. Although there is some limitation here. Its power is not always enough to make a hole with a diameter greater than 8 mm, even if the manufacturer says otherwise. In this case it is recommended to divide the work into two parts. First use a drill with a smaller diameter. 4-6 mm. After that, expand the obtained hole to the required one.

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