Gasoline leaks from the carburetor on the motoblock

Cleaning the carburetor of your power tiller

Instability in the work of the carburetor motoblock most often occurs due to low fuel level in the tank, due to poor-quality fuel, contamination of the filter on the fuel tap or clogging of the internal parts of the carburetor. To clean the motoblock carburetor to remove debris from the mesh filter and nipple disassembly should be conducted according to this scheme:

  • Carefully remove carburetor and drain fuel from float chamber. If the air does not pass through the fuel connection. you need to blow it out;
  • Inspect the float chamber and the float adjusting tongue, determine the level of incoming fuel (the optimal level is usually no more than 35 mm);
  • remove the low and high gas needle to clean the nozzle. After unscrewing the bolts disconnect the upper and lower parts of the carburetor, the fuel tap thoroughly rinse with gasoline;
  • Clean the nozzle with an air stream, using a pump. Never wipe carburetor parts with a rag. Assemble the carburetor only after all the parts are dry (to do this, place them on a clean, dry surface). For example, on cardboard);
  • after reassembly, make sure that the carburetor is assembled correctly, all the reach parts are in place, and the holes match the tubes. Only after that install the carburetor back on the single axle tractor.

In order to assemble the part correctly after disassembly we recommend that you read

Assembly of the carburetor

Knowing exactly how a carburetor for a power tiller works. help independently eliminate any of its malfunctions, as well as perform cleaning and timely adjustment of the regular fuel unit.

Structurally, the mechanism consists of:

  • float, which is connected to a built-in needle locking steel valve;
  • a metal float chamber with chrome-plated internal cavities;
  • additional chamber required for mixing the fuel and air;
  • fuel distribution structure equipped with a diffuser;
  • an adjustable throttle valve;
  • fuel and standard air pipes made of technical rubber.

Depending on the manufacturer and the purpose of power tillers, their carburetors can be equipped with additional elements. But regardless of this, fuel huls work on the same principle.

One of the most important elements of the mechanism is the float, whose main function is initially to regulate the amount of fuel needed for the correct operation of the power tiller. The fuel itself is in the float chamber and as soon as its volume drops, the float opens the built in needle valve. Through it, the missing volume of fuel enters the chamber, after which the float rises and slowly closes the valve.

The carburetor on a single-axle tractor is equipped with an outlet channel, which is located in the float chamber. For normal operation of the fuel unit, the amount of fuel in the standard float chamber must be continuously maintained at a level that is a few millimeters below the location of the outlet.

The atomizer initially plays the role of a kind of distributor of fuel, which falls from the chrome float into the steel mixing chamber. The latter is directly necessary for the enrichment of combustible air. Pre-cleaned air flows into it through a built-in inlet.

No gasoline in the chainsaw carburetor

The fuel filter is extracted through the fill hole, with a hook (it can be bent from a wire) along with an absorbing hose. Release the fuel tank beforehand. The filter should be unplugged and cleaned or replaced with a new one.

It is recommended that you replace the fuel filter every 3 months. If there is a lack of fuel consistency going from the carburettor to the cylinder, the cause may be a mixture of fuel and air mixed in the carburettor. The main causes: driving the air filter, carburetor ducts or the filter.

Naturally, when repairing chain saws, the air filter must be cleaned, because it quickly gets dirty. This reduces the amount of air going into the carburetor. The fuel mixture at the outlet in this case is over-enriched.

The dirty filter must be removed very carefully so that accumulated dirt does not fall and get into the carburetor. The filter should be cleaned or washed with water and detergent. Then dry it out and put it back in.

Why is there gasoline leaking from the carburetor?

advise what can cause gasoline to leak from the carb after the choke?

yes))) after the choke, the float starts leaking, the gaskets are fine

Теч от карбураторите / Carburetor fuel leak

Open your carb and check the cuff on the shutoff valve

If it stops leaking. if not, close the valve for 10-15 seconds and if it leaks. take off the floats and check.If one has fuel change.The floats are OK but are still leaking Take off your carb, put a hose on the fuel hose fitting, turn your carb upside down and blow into the hose.It’s leaking, change the rubber.Adjust the fuel level according to the manual.

Sometimes changing the rubber on the shut-off needle does nothing, the leak continues. I advise in this case, a new drill bit (I do not remember the diameter, but to fit into the hole where the rubber is) with your fingers twist it in different directions. There’s a little oxidation and it’s interfering with proper seating of the cuff. Good luck.

I suspect that by “sucking up” you mean “sinking the float”.

If after “sinking the float” gasoline leaks through the overflow just close the valve on the tank. When it stops flowing, open it again. There (in float chambers of carburetors K-63/65/68 installed at an angle to the horizon) at overflow in the float chamber we get “siphon”, the leakage will be at any condition of the cut-off valve. To stop the “siphon” effect, you have to interrupt the flow from the overflow And this is the faucet under the tank.

There will not be a siphon in order to have a siphon it is necessary that the cut of the outer tube is below the fuel level.

I think this is called a “siphon” after all. But I will not give a tooth. Exactly the same way automatic washing machines incorrectly connected to the drain are continuously pumping water.

We’re about the same thing. The float chamber, when filled to overflowing, drains the surplus through the overflow. At that the channel for communication of the float chamber with atmosphere can appear blocked with the fuel. As a result, the flowing fuel creates a vacuum in the float chamber, which opens the fuel valve. Not much, about enough to pump the contents of the tank to the ground Interrupt the process simply shut off the valve to the float hopper air.

I don’t know if it’s called a siphon or what, but it looks a lot like “sucking gasoline from a tank into a canister through a hose”

In the channel which communicates the float chamber with atmosphere, the fuel enters. On the K-68, I put a tube on the nozzle of this channel and drove it down. At one point they started pissing gasoline merrily

Come on. And without the tubes it’s leaking From the overflow. You close the valve, wait for it to stop leaking. You open the faucet, it doesn’t leak anymore. Your explanation of the effect?

The shutoff needle doesn’t work well (by the way, maybe just because of the carb at an angle), that’s the explanation.

No, no, no. I don’t give up that easily. It’s been said many times, on different bikes, different carburetors. This “shitty needle” that pours gasoline to the ground after sinking the float, starts working fine after closing-open the faucet on the tank. For me personally, I figured out the process and tried to describe it here. Believe it or not, it is up to your business.

The physics course figured it out a long time ago ;). As described in Peryshkin in the “communicating vessels” thread. There is also an explanation of why the cut of the outer end of the hose must be DOWN to the level of the liquid in the tank. Here is an example, though very briefly:

In our case this is NOT a communicating vessel. Although. The very fact that fuel is flowing from the overflow channel (which, if you look closely, is a pipe), obviously we can assume that the upper cut of our pipe is below the liquid level. And the lower cutoff is a bit too much. Tilt the picture of the carburetor in the section as if it was installed on the bike and “virtually” press the drowning button. The fuel will fill the “” above position 23 with the overflow. In this case the channel for communication of the float chamber with the atmosphere may also be blocked with fuel. But the fuel flows out. A low vacuum is created in the chamber which will not allow the needle valve to fully close. And this nonsense can go on until the tank runs out of fuel. Either you have to forcibly stop the supply from above so that the float box will unblock the air through the overflow, or the overflow will suck the fuel out of the atmospheric duct. In both cases the vacuum in the float will be gone and the needle valve can function normally. I don’t know what this effect is called. Siphon or ejection. I finished physics 20 years ago

Exactly! A weak vacuum is created in the chamber, which will prevent the needle valve from closing completely. That’s what I’m talking about. Т.Е. Like I said siphon, or coalescing vessels. Either way the level plays a role.

Sometimes, after taking your bike to the store or just leaving it outside for half an hour, on your return the owner notices a puddle of gasoline under your faithful horse. In addition to the obvious loss of gasoline, this problem can turn into a serious problem if any passerby carelessly throws a cigarette butt in the direction of your motorcycle. In a car equipped with a carburetor engine, the gasoline leak is especially scary, because it is not easy to notice, and it can cause a sudden fire under the hood.

Why is there gasoline leaking from the carburetor?

I can’t figure out what the hell is going on.

I was driving, driving, everything was fine, and then the speed began to drop and the car stalled (when you press the accelerator pedal seemed to appear, but the traction was not).

At the same time there was a smell of gasoline in the cabin.

First thing I thought was a gas pump. Unscrewed the gasoline pump inlet hose from the carb, tried to pump barely a soul in the body. No fuel pressure (the trickle is weak). Т.к. I had to drive instead of repairing it, so I put New gasoline pump.

All symptoms are the same. And the smell of gasoline.

I look closely and gasoline is leaking from under the carburetor inlet fitting (where the filter is) and straight onto the manifold!

I think the filter’s clogged. Unscrewed and cleaned in place with no result.

Please tell me which way to “dig”.к. I didn’t know much about carbos.

One more thing. Maybe the information will be useful as a supplement. Had some trouble with the brakes. Pumped it all around, but the pedal only grabs at the end (near the floor). Started looking into it and it turned out that the pipe, from the engine intake pipe, is very loose. Tightened the clamp and it seemed to get better, but not quite. So I’ve been driving.

That’s what I wrote? Maybe there is no vacuum in the carb, that’s why the fuel remains in the float chamber?

If the terminology was confused do not judge severely. I’m so sick of this problem, I can’t believe it.

So, 4021 engine. Under the carburetor, there’s a tee where the hose from the gas filter comes in and the hose goes back out the tank. You tighten that tee with a 19 wrench. And periodically the torque gets loose, who knows why, and starts leaking gasoline. Right on the manifold. Periodically opening the hood to detect this problem. But in general, it’s not a pleasant and dangerous business. First of all, you could burn out. Secondly, it’s a shame to waste gas.

The question is whether someone has faced this problem and what is the solution? tighten? (it does not help), a washer which artful to put, cold welding “poxypol” to put on? hint, a?

I had the same problem 4 years ago. (somewhere in 2003) also plagued every time before leaving the car to check if it was leaking or not. Solved the problem as follows: took off the tee, wiped dry, lubricated with heat-resistant sealant (American, red) washer from the tee and carb housing, tightened properly (with a head, of course), waited until it dries. Drove it all the way up to June 2007 without any problems at all, until I changed the carb. I hope you can. Good luck.

Repair of the carburetor mole

The carburetor of a mole with a tiller was made during the Soviet era. Despite the fact that the Soviet industry was famous for its high level of performance and reliability, still this carburetor had several flaws. In order to understand them, you must first perform a complete disassembly of its components:

  • Remove the lid by unscrewing the bolt on it. Under it we find a gasket made of gasoline-resistant material, as well as a spring, which should be removed.
  • Remove the choke, which is located in the same place, under the cover.
  • On the reverse side is the float chamber, which also needs to be unscrewed. Remove the gasket.
  • Then it is necessary to remove the float by removing the pin from the corresponding hole. Under the float we find a special needle, which must also be taken out. We find a small rubber band on it, which should not be lost in any case, so very carefully perform all manipulations.
  • Unscrew the connector, under which the gasoline filter is located.
  • Then you need to remove the nozzle. After that we have to pull out absolutely all “viscera”, which are located in the carburetor body.

This kind of disassembly is necessary, because we get access to the internal contents, which is considered the most problematic.

The most common flaw with these carburetors is the adjustment screw, which is responsible for the quality of the mixture.

In other words, we turn this screw, and the mixture does not change, remains constantly unchanged.

To change this, you need to make a certain repair of the carburetor, which is inside the motoblock Mole. The main reason for problems with the mixture adjustment, is one circumstance. The fact is that there is a special channel inside the carburetor, which goes to the tube located in the center of the carburetor.

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In this pipe, supposedly, there should be a through hole, connecting this very channel. The problem is that on some factory units this tube is placed askew, which leads to the fact that the channel and the hole on the tube do not coincide.

There are cases that this hole on the tube is not present at all, or it is of insufficient diameter. To make the repair, we need to do a few sequential steps:

  • Unscrew the two adjusting screws. Pay attention to the fact that the screws have different taper. the mixture quality screw has a larger taper.
  • To get the tube that’s inside out, we need to heat up the part on the outside a little bit. To do this you can use a small fire on a gas stove or heat it with an ordinary lighter.
  • Heating as long as can hold the case in his hands. After that we put the stud in the hole where the cover fixing bolt was.
  • Using a hammer, gently strike the inserted stud until the pipe pops out.
  • As practice shows, the hole is only drilled on one side of the tube, i.e.е. it’s not through. We need to make a symmetrical hole on the other side of this tube, or rework the one we have.
  • If there is a second hole, but it is smaller in diameter than the first one, we need to sharpen it a bit more. To do this, use a regular round nail file and re-brill the edges of the hole.
  • Then put the tube back in its original place. This should be done so that the through hole on it and the hole on the channel are exactly the same.
  • before reinserting the tube in place, heat the carburettor housing again slightly so that it can easily be reinserted in its place.
  • Insert the tube in place and use the same stud that we used to push the tube out, to put it back in place. Knock lightly so that the pipe does not go far inside. on the back side we should see the hole that is just above the through hole, which should coincide with the channel.
  • You have to make sure that the hole is exactly centered.
  • Take a thick wire and insert it into the hole in the channel. If everything is correct the wire should go through the hole on the pipe and come out of it to the continuation of the carburetor channel.
  • If the wire is not moving, you need to tap a little more on the stud, pushing the tube a little farther.
  • Then you need to assemble the carburetor back in the reverse order.

That’s the whole process of the necessary changes in the carburetor design. Thanks to them, the adjusting screw fully performs its duties to change the quality, which, in fact, was required of it.

Reasons why the carburetor can leak

The gasoline often comes out through the cutoff valve, which is located at the bottom of the carburetor. If you notice the leak in time, you should immediately after arriving at your destination close the faucet, which is just under the gas tank of your motorcycle. Especially often such a problem may arise on Chinese mopeds, as Chinese carburetors are not of high quality performance. The other causes of carburetor leaks look like this:

  • The carburetor is trivially clogged, it should be cleaned;
  • Tight connection between the carburetor and the manifold. Usually the problem is in the gasket between these elements;
  • You need to adjust the floats in the carburetor;
  • Gasoline is leaking through the thermal insulation gasket;
  • Fuel can leak through the carburetor cap;
  • The carburetor is leaking through the connector.
gasoline, leaks, carburetor, motoblock

Each case should be explained in detail, but first remove the carburetor.

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