How do you cut the lid off a plastic drum?
How to open an engine oil drum?
At the cottage is piled full of branches and other debris, I would like to burn all unnecessary. I’m planning to buy an inexpensive used oil drum. But they’re mostly corked. The opened ones are more expensive and it takes longer to find them.
At first I thought I’d cut it with a bolt cutter, but I don’t know if the oil fumes from the spark will hit it. Who opened it??
And while you’re at it, maybe you have a barrel you don’t need? Would help inexpensively get rid of )
About machine oil in the topic is, so it’s not off ))))
Opened perfectly with a pneumatic chisel or just a chisel, just a little longer and that’s it. oil doesn’t soar
I originally wanted to cut the lid on the inside, and so even had a lid to cover the barrel from the rain and snow. Thanks again )))
A moron here on the forum a year ago was already advised to cut an oil drum with an angle grinder. That’s what killed the idiot. I used to live on Boru, if I’m not mistaken.
If you want to cut a barrel of any kind of fuel and lubricants, first fill it up with water. I used an axe, an electric jigsaw with a long saw. There’s a lot of things you can do. the metal is relatively thin and soft.
It happens. You may be lucky and you can even cut a 1000 barrels safely (you need a certain ratio of flammable vapors to oxygen in the barrel, to blow up). But the 1001st barrel could be your last barrel in this life. Do you need it??
OK. Thanks for the tip, but in this case there was no contact between the cutting tool and the inside of the barrel, so if there was a risk, it was really with a 1/1000 probability.
Angle of the axe into the edge of the lid and tap with a heavy hammer. It’ll open like a tin can. Do not chop too tightly to the edge, leave 1-2 cm. The second action. tap (tuck) the edge down as much as you can with a hammer. Then put the axe blade on the outside, against the tucked edge, and tap the edge with the hammer from the inside. It will press tightly, there will be no sharp edges, they will press tightly. The whole operation will take 5-7 minutes per barrel. Chop the barrel and tap the edge vertically, do not lie down. It takes a long time with a chisel, any axe will do, even a not very sharp one. The more so it will be needed for crimping the edge. It’s too painful with an angle grinder and not of the same quality. It will leave big sharp corners. don’t be thankful, use the whistle
You could use an angle grinder to cut an oil drum?
You cut the bare body, but you didn’t take the headliner off. smoke was. 5 kg carbon dioxide fire extinguisher did not help.
P.s. By the way the gasoline in the gas tank did not catch fire, the bucket was drained later.
In my youth I saw a truck with barrels of alcohol, in the darkness of the night lit up these barrels with lighters, I don’t know whether I was lucky to be alive or not.
When I was young, I used to watch a truck load with empty alcohol drums. Guess why it took my loaders two extra hours to load the drums? )))
I saw a regular 200-liter barrels, so there used to be some chemistry inside. It’s not foil. It’s not thick, but it’s solid iron.
I used to take barrels of thinner at work (R-646, etc.).п.), soaked in water for 24 hours. Two, and then already cut with an angle grinder. However, another man from work was unlucky (most likely, did not soak, or poured/drained water, but his solvent fumes ignited and burned his face, he was lying in the hospital.
I sawed out the lid with an electric jigsaw. And that time I didn’t have a metal saw, I sawed with a wood saw. It was enough for one cover 😉
decreases the propagation of radio waves in this atmospheric layer. Stupid phrase, he’s fed up with the two-judge physics judge, it seems.
fill it up with water for a couple of days If only to cut off the lid. Pour a little water and cut it off.
You try that oil just with matches/lighter and you’ll find that the sparks won’t ignite the oil. He doesn’t have any vapor.
I used an angle grinder to cut the lid, but not all the way through.
In large service and oil shops, they say they can even give you a present
If the used chemicals, which are not good for water but can be used as source of good iron (or for any non-food purposes), from 100 to 200, depending on the amount. I got it in the winter, it’s already this year. If you need it, write in person. Give up the phones 🙂
PS. The bastard who hanged the hammer on me on the sly bastard! I don’t see who did it. that’s why it’s so dirty, that’s why it’s so dirty.
Variety of suitable tanks
If the variation in the capacity of household barrels. ranging from 180 to 250 liters. does not greatly affect the performance of the septic, the type of material from which they are made, determines one of the most important parameters. service life. Therefore it is extremely important to find out in advance which product is best suited for specific applications, taking into account the impact of such a number of destructive factors as:
- The degree of moistening of the ground.
- Climatic conditions, including temperature fluctuations.
- The amount of precipitation.
- Composition of the wastewater mass. will the tank be drained only natural domestic waste, or also synthetic detergents, household chemicals, etc. п.
There are two main varieties of domestic barrels. plastic and metal. The first are characterized by inertness to corrosive processes, the second. by maximum strength. Therefore, it is preferable to do a septic tank for the toilet from an iron barrel in the place where large mechanical loads are expected. for example, if the pit is arranged on the site of the passage or parking for vehicles. The average lifetime of such a tank is 10-12 years.
There are several available to a wide range of consumers options for the arrangement of a cesspool for sewage drains:
- A specially designed tank, fitted with a manhole, hole for the ventilation system and drainage facilities. If necessary, it is possible to install several tanks connected in series. when the volume of effluent is large enough. Designed to be well-fitted and installed with no modifications required, but will cost more than a normal barrel.
- Steel barrel. Will cost less than the above option, but will require refinement. creating peorations, holes for the hood, anti-corrosion coating and so on. As a rule, in spite of its inexpensive price and high strength, the wall material breaks down quickly due to corrosive processes.
- Plastic barrel. Made of PVC or other polymers with similar properties. Not subject to corrosion. Therefore will last much longer than its metal counterpart. Nevertheless, such a container is not very durable and can fail if the area of the installation will be under heavy mechanical stress. for example, the passage of the car.
Please note! The depth of the pit under the barrel without a bottom should be more than its height by 30-40 cm. It is necessary for the arrangement of the filtration layer of 20-30 cm of fine crushed stone and 10-20 cm of sand. Passing through it, the wastewater will be naturally cleaned before being absorbed into the ground.
Pros and cons of plastic and metal barrels
Metal barrel has a large margin of strength. This gives it an advantage with the arrival of the cold season. In addition, it will not collapse if it is installed close to the surface and a heavy vehicle passes over it.
However, the steel tank used for sewage drains, and has a number of significant drawbacks:
- Low resistance to corrosion. Without the use of special protection, as well as under the influence of aggressive environment, the walls of the vessel will rust through, already 3-5 years after installation.
- High cost. One thing is when you use an old, previously used in the household or written off from the production of barrels, another thing. when you specifically have to buy it in a brand new form. The price of the latter is quite high.
- Difficult to install. Large weight and dimensions often create difficulties to install the container in a specially prepared pit, especially if it is substantially deepened to eliminate the effects of negative temperatures in winter.
- The optimal wall thickness should be 15 mm or more. Such thick-walled units are usually beyond the scope of domestic use. They must either be specifically sought or ordered. In addition, these barrels have an impressive weight, and install them without special equipment will not work.
In a 2-chamber septic tank, the first barrel has a bottom and is equipped with ventilation, the second is below and lets the water into the ground through the filtration cushion Source stroyfora.ru
Plastic barrel for the arrangement of a dacha toilet with a septic tank with or without a bottom, on the contrary, has more advantages than disadvantages. Its advantages are as follows:
- Long service life. In practice, properly installed in the ground and protected from damaging factors plastic tanks serve no less than the house itself.
- Easy installation thanks to the low weight of the material.
- Not prone to corrosion processes.
- Inertness to liquid aggressive media. The walls of a plastic septic tank can come into contact with solutions of detergents, laundry detergents, bleach and other household chemicals for a long time and without consequences.
- No flow of effluents through the walls into the soil. In contrast to their metal counterparts plastic reservoirs do not corrode and do not let the sewage flow into the ground.
- Reasonable cost.
- Sufficient margin of safety to retain integrity under soil pressure.
Plastic barrels. the ideal option for the arrangement of the septic tank of a private house Source sibenergo38.com
Nevertheless, plastic barrels are not without disadvantages either. One of the most obvious is the material’s intolerance to negative temperatures. Therefore, the septic tank must necessarily be insulated or buried below the frost level of the ground. In addition, plastic, unlike metal, does not withstand heavy mechanical loads, so if necessary, requires fencing or strengthening.
Materials and tools:
To make the gasket, take a piece of silicone hose 5-20 mm longer than the circumference of the container throat to be sealed. Spare length depends on the size of the neck, if it is only 200 mm in circumference, then a section of 205 mm is enough. It is then cut open lengthwise.
Next, the hose cut is pulled over the walls of the neck of the tank, cans or other containers. After installing on the circumference there will be an extra 1-2 cm. It is necessary to tighten the tube on the throat side of the beginning of the laying, making a gap to lay the rest. Thanks to this the edges will support each other, and the looped hose will not pop out.
This gasket is elastic enough to ensure complete tightness of the container after the lid is screwed on, even if it will be under pressure. It is easily removed for washing and retains its shape over time, so in some ways it is even better than the standard flat.
After all the necessary preparations, you need to mark the place where the faucet will be embedded. It is believed that the most advantageous location is low, near the bottom. This will allow you to pour out almost all the liquid without residue. It should be borne in mind that using the bottom of the tank for mounting is not always advantageous, because you will have to position the tank in a special way, which will require additional effort.
Before carrying out the work the relevant area of the barrel should be cleaned of dirt and rust, then degreased. If this is not done, the tightness of the connection may deteriorate. Cleaning should be carried out both on the inside and the outside. Perform the work as follows:
- Once a suitable position has been chosen, it must be marked. It is necessary to outline the place where the hole will be cut.
- Create the holes in a circle almost consecutively with a drill. Then the crosspieces are broken up with the chisel and the file is used to make the edges smooth.
- Where there is a short thread on the wall plug, a nut is screwed on. The part is inserted into the created hole from the outside. With the inner on the runoff install the second.
- Next it is necessary to carry out sealing of the joint. To do this, use Fum tape on the remaining free part of the thread. This place is abundantly smeared with silicone sealant. Then they tighten the nuts as tight as possible.
- The ball valve is screwed to the union.
After the installation is complete, you need to check the functionality of the construction. To do this, you need to fill the container with water and use a faucet. If it opens easily, does not leak, then the installation is performed well and reliably.
How to make a lid on a barrel
If a villager has ducks, chickens or geese in his farm, the problem of storing grain is quite urgent for him. Usually wheat or barley, which the villagers buy poultry, poured into barrels, closed with a lid and stored for many months. It makes no sense to keep the grain in the barrels without the lid. in this case you can only breed mice. Covering the tank with a board is not a solution either. mice can easily get under it as well.
In such cases, villagers do this: they buy barrels with a lid or make them themselves. In the first case, you can’t do without money. a two-hundred-liter container in 2017 cost about 2,000 apiece. In the second. you will need the desire, a few boards and tools that will greatly facilitate the upcoming work.
In our example, we chose the second option, since there were several barrels without lids on the farm which contained water for watering cucumbers. Having decided to raise chickens, we bought several bags of grain and put them in the barn. The mice, with which we lead an indefinite and merciless fight, were only happy to receive such a gift and in the first night they gnawed through the sacking. So we immediately poured water out of the containers, dried them and proceeded to make lids, as there is simply no place to buy them for non-standard barrels.
The first thing we pick up planks 30 mm thick, cut them to the diameter of the barrel, and place them on it so that they went beyond its edge by about 2-3 cm.
Now let’s make a shield out of them, so connect it to each other. We did this: we drill a shallow hole in the side edges, hammer a wooden dowel into one board, pre-lubricate it with glue, and insert it into the hole on the other board.
Next, we will put the board on the barrel, align it so it covers it completely, and trace the circumference of the container with a pencil from below. We should try to trace it as carefully as possible so that the pencil repeats all the irregularities of the circle, this is especially important if the barrel is crumpled.
Turn the shield with the drawn circle upside down. The line for the trimmer, drawn on it, indicates the diameter of the barrel. Now we have to draw another circle, 2 cm bigger in radius. Let’s make a semblance of a compass out of improvised materials: we’ll take a pencil, tie a thread to it, and attach a self-drilling screw at the other end. Determine the center of the circle, put a screwdriver in it, make a string of the length we need and draw another, larger circle.
We’ll take the jigsaw and cut the panel around the outer circumference. The lid for the barrel will look like this.
Now let’s make it close the barrel tightly. To do this, let’s take a hand router, put a 1.5 cm wide groove cutter on it and cut a groove in the place where the trimmer line of a smaller circle is drawn. Let’s set the depth of cutter to half the thickness of the board. To cut exactly along the line we’ll attach the guide stops to the router and fix the lid itself on the table with clamps.
Clean the groove from shavings and try it on the barrel. If the marking is done accurately and the groove is exactly in line, the lid will close the barrel tightly. If something gets in the way while trying it on, mark the spot with a pencil and trim it with the router.
Next, carefully grind the cover with a grinder. Now the boards are held in place by dowels. This is not enough, they can break with careless movement. To make the cover more durable, fix it from the inside with three thin strips, screwing them with short self-tapping screws to each board perpendicularly.
Let’s turn the lid upside down. If the gaps between the boards are large, we will close them with nailing slats, nailing with small nail heads.
A lid for a jar
Take a container, which is slightly larger in diameter than the size of the neck of the jar. We grease the surface with petroleum jelly and fill it with silicone with or without dye. Smooth it with a finger greased with petroleum jelly.
A lid for a garden barrel
I want to share with gardeners a fairly simple, but very useful “invention”. In every garden there are barrels with a reserve of water for watering the garden. And almost all dacha plots have at least one barrel with clean water for other household purposes. There are even two such barrels at our cottage. We use the water from them for washing dishes and vegetables, as well as for laundry.
To keep water clean from dust, falling leaves and other debris, we’ve closed the barrels on top of anything we have. scraps of plywood, trays from the stove, the doors from an old closet for years. The appearance of these barrels was quite unsightly. Finally, my husband, looking at all this mess, can not stand. And suggested to make special lids for them.
My mother, an elderly person, immediately assumed that any cover would be very uncomfortable for her.heavy, with a handle, by which it will have to be constantly lifted when you need to get water. But when we saw the result, we were very surprised. so simple and convenient!
The cover for the barrel is easy to open, reliably protects the water from wind-blown debris.
And it leaves a hole big enough to scoop up water not only with a bucket, but also with a bucket. The lid also holds the hose when filling the barrel with water. It is very useful for country houses, it is not difficult to make this very useful device, and the work does not take much time. And everything is done so.
From a sheet of regular plywood you cut a circle a little bigger than the diameter of the barrel, so you can grab the edge of the lid when you open it.
Saw the circular saw in half into two segments. One of them will be stationary, the other one will be open. If the opening part is made larger, then not only the bucket, but also a bucket will pass through the opening.
On the underside of each half of the cut to attach self-tapping bars with the hinges installed on them. The length of the bars should be slightly less than the inner diameter of the barrel, they will fix the lid from shifting. Finished product must be properly treated with impregnation for wood, because it will be in constant contact with water, besides, you will use it outdoors, and not just one year.
We’ve been using this design for two years now and can’t get enough of it! In addition, it is convenient, and the view of water containers has become much more accurate.
And if you have a desire to decorate such a lid painting or decorate it in a fashionable technique of decoupage, then this useful product for the garden will not only be functional, but will be an original decoration of your garden plot.
Measuring and cutting the barrel
When doing this work, do not forget that it is better to measure seven times and cut once, and not vice versa. Do not forget about safety precautions, because electrical and sharp instruments will be used.Measure the height of the barrel and divide it in half. After that you should at least six places around the circumference of the middle of the barrel put points at about the same distance from each other, this will ensure that you spend an even line for the trimmer and cut the barrel exactly in the middle. A jigsaw is ideal for cutting, but if you don’t have one, use a tool that can do the job. Then start measuring the top of the barrel you have cut. You need to trim the top of the barrel without any jagged edges. If you’re using a barrel that closes with a lid, it’s just worth cutting the threads or where the lid locks in place.
When you have a cylinder, you also need to cut it in half, but not vertically, but horizontally. In order to make it even, you have to measure it correctly. Put a wooden meter on top of the cylinder, which must be even and without any defects. Measure on both sides of the meter the distance to it, it must be the same. When you have thus determined the middle, then make marks on the barrel at both ends of the meter. Then measure the distance between the points on the circumference and put the marks on the bottom of the cylinder, then you can connect them and you will get straight lines. After you cut, and you have two semicircular plates, one of which should be set aside for now. Next, one plate will act as the back of the chair and armrests, on which you need to bend them properly. To do this, take a ruler, measure the middle (at the ends of the plate) and mark the points, then on a circle at the level of the middle put a mark of 20 cm. Draw a trimmer line from point to point, then draw upwards and you have what looks like a square. You cut from top to bottom along the line on both sides and on this preparation for soldering of the given element is ready. But for more comfortable armrests you will need again these squares to divide conditionally in half and bend, and then either solder or fasten with screws or rivets. To fasten it, all you need to do is drill holes in the planes at the desired connection points. You can make a slightly different shape and size from the example above, just keep in mind that the back must be strong.The second plate will serve as a reinforcement of the backrest and armrests. To do this you will need to cut small plates from it, which will be attached to the main structure of the back as overlays. It is desirable to fasten them to each other with rivets. You have enough material, even some elements will remain after cutting the secondary plate, and the pieces that may seem unnecessary, you will still be useful if you want to add personality to your chair and decorate it, additionally cut out at your discretion figurines and fix them on the structure.