How many degrees is chain sharpening?. Mechanized sharpening on a machine
How to sharpen the chain saw blade with your own hands?
If the blunt end of the saw blunts the cutting performance. You will report a lot of force, but you won’t get a good cut. And the risk of injury caused by a chainsaw with a blunt blade is greatly increased. There are various ways out of the situation: buy a new blade, sharpen it at a special service or do it yourself. In the latter case, the sharpening of the chain saw blade will cost you free of charge.
If you know how to operate your chainsaw for a long time, use it intensively, it means you have already solved the problem of losing the teeth of the saw. It takes just one sharpening with sand or saw dust so that the teeth become less sharp and the sawing performance worsens. Every time you send the saw to the sharpening machine, you will have to take breaks in your work. It is much faster to learn how to properly sharpen a chain saw chain yourself.
Complicated shape of the teeth makes the process of sharpening not the easiest, so before starting the work it is necessary to get acquainted with the ways and peculiarities of sharpening the saw blade.
Signs of a blunt chain and consequences of its further use
You should not confuse the difficulty of working with a blunt chain saw with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or a badly dried log. In all of these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but the blunt tool has a certain behavior. signs by which you can judge if it needs sharpening:
- the chainsaw does not immediately gnaw into the tree trunk, it sort of grinds, shifting away from the point of contact;
- when sawing softwood, the tool sluggishly enters the thickness of the wood, you have to put pressure on the guide bar;
- the chips turn from coarse with characteristic oblong particles into fine teardrop, which very rarely crumbles;
- the chain gets hot quickly, you can hear the unpleasant smell of oil burning on the guide bar.
In addition to these alarms, always after hitting metal nails, wire, or burying a chainsaw in the ground, you can be one hundred percent sure that the cutting edges need to be sharpened later.
What can happen to the tool later on if the problem is ignored? the most harmless. it will be impossible to work with the chainsaw, eventually it will become boring and will force to service the machine after all. But adherents of the proverb “Strength is intelligence not necessary” can come to the following conclusion:
- unnecessary load on the body, because you have to, frankly, put pressure on the tool to make it saw;
- Fuel consumption overruns by up to 30%, which is due to the need to go through a longer RPM cycle to achieve the same result;
- accelerated wear and tear on the bar and other parts of the chainsaw.
In addition to all of these negative consequences of a dull saw, there is a high probability that the chain will jam in the barrel and injure the operator doing the work.
Equipment and tools for sharpening
Chainsaw chain can be sharpened manually, but for this you will have to take care to purchase special tools:
- A flat file;
- Sawdust cleaning hook;
- A template that provides sharpening parameters specific to this type of chain;
- A circular file;
- A file holder.
These tools are available at any specialty or hardware store. You can buy them separately, but it’s better to buy the whole set at once.
Circular file holder Flat file Grip file
In this case, you need to know exactly and take into account the parameters of a chainsaw chain (pitch and width of the link). You can find these figures in the tool data sheet, or on the internet.
|Link width||pitch||File diameter|
|1,1. 1,3||3,8″||4 mm.|
For a complete table of values for angles of various saw chain models please see the photo below.
The price for hand sharpening tools is quite democratic. Sets are available for 5. 15, the file costs even less: from 1.
Also, if the teeth are very worn, hand sharpening tools can be used to keep the angles more correct. These devices are mounted directly on the saw head of the electric or chain saw, and it is not necessary to dismantle the entire chain. The horizontal and vertical angles of the saw tooth are thus held more precisely, which is very important for a chainsaw to work properly. In addition to the machine, round and flat files, as well as a hook for removing sawdust, must be available.
Such a machine, quite productive and easy to use, and allows you to prepare the chainsaw for operation in a short time. Note the rather democratic price of the device. In the Russian and Ukrainian Internet stores you can buy the product at a price of 20 to 40.
The process of sharpening with a file
First of all, you need to clear the work area. If the work will be carried out with the help of a clamp, you must find a place where it can be fixed. In its absence, select a horizontal surface and an ordinary log for fixing the bar.
Algorithm of chain sharpening:
- Make adjustment of the chain tension: put the chainsaw on the brake, put a universal sharpening template on the teeth (with the arrows pointing in the direction of chain movement);
- Sharpening is done with a round nail file, with smooth movements, without excessive force from the inside to the outside of the saw tooth;
- When performing the operation, make the same number of movements from yourself, with constant pressure, it will help to achieve the same tooth length;
- Sharpen all teeth on one side and the other;
Important! Maintain correct angle while sharpening. The standard angle is 30 degrees from perpendicular to the plane of the guide bar.
- After several sharpening steps, it is time to check and, if necessary, resharpen the depth stop. That is why we bought a flat file. Use light, smooth strokes away from yourself to perform this operation;
Important! Use the template when sharpening the depth stop. If you over-cut the limiter, the vibration and rebound force of the chainsaw will increase.
Advantages of sharpening the chain by hand:
- Mobile: You can sharpen your saw anywhere, even in the woods and keep on working with your chainsaw;
- Longevity: By sharpening the cutting edges with an emery board, you avoid overheating the teeth, which increases the life of the saw headset;
- No special skills required: You can prepare the tool for operation even without special skills. sharpening looks easy enough;
- Cost-effective: no need to spend money on expensive machines or regularly pay 1-2 craftsmen;
Electric chain sharpening machines have many universal features that make them suitable for any chainsaw.
The machine can be easily adjusted to the parameters of the teeth and allows you to carry out the sharpening operation with the necessary (sufficiently high) accuracy.
Even a beginner can cope with this kind of work. In addition, the machine is affordable: 25-50.
Top 5 automatic machines
The first two places in our rating are occupied by machines designed for use in workshops and factories. They are notable for their performance and quality, but their price point is also quite high:
This saw is designed for larger sawing jobs. A good solution. for your business.
It is characterized by reliability and high build quality. Suitable for all chains. This tool is sold at a price of 500
Chain sharpening angles on the chain saw table
Despite the fact that the machine weighs 5-7 kilograms or even more, when sawing a tree trunk into billets, you just wonder how quickly it happens, and there is almost no fatigue.
But here comes the moment when the tool blade gets heavier and heavier into the wood. The diagnosis is one. the saw is blunt, so you need to sharpen your chainsaw chain.
Those who encounter it for the first time, a little saddened, because it is not clear: to do it yourself or give the tool to specialists in the shop. And what is the right sharpening angle?? But in fact there is nothing terrible here, and with some knowledge you can easily sharpen chainsaw chains with your own hands. The right solution strategy in this case directly depends on the workload of the machine.
CLARKE ECSS2 Electric chainsaw sharpener TOOL SET UP and REVIEW | How to sharpen chainsaw chain
If the chainsaw is used occasionally, a few times a year, it may not make sense to buy a special sharpening machine or devices, it is easier to solve the problem by using the services of a service center.
But if the chainsaw. a means of making money or there is a desire to master the process of sharpening itself, then you should definitely buy a sharpener or machine and manually carry out this simple manipulation of the chain.
Let’s look below at what the proper chain sharpening of a chainsaw chain is based on.
Signs of a blunt chain and consequences of further operation
You should not confuse the difficulty of working with a blunt chain saw with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or severely dried logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but the blunt tool has a certain behavior. signs by which you can judge the need for sharpening:
- The chainsaw does not immediately gnaw into the tree trunk, it sort of grinds, shifting away from the point of contact;
- when sawing softwood the tool sluggishly enters the thickness of the wood, you have to put pressure on the guide bar;
- the chips will change from coarse with characteristic oblong particles to a fine teardrop that very rarely crumbles;
- the chain heats up quickly, and an unpleasant smell of burning guide bar oil can be heard.
Aside from these alarms, one can always be one hundred percent sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of the cutting edges after hitting metal nails, wire, or burying a chainsaw in the ground with a chain saw.
What can happen to the tool in the future, if you ignore the problem? the most innocuous. it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw, and in the end it will get boring and still be necessary to service the machine. But adherents of the proverb “You don’t have to be smart to have power” can come to the following result:
How to use saw chain Grinder Machine? Chain saw chain sharpener Machine Use.
- unnecessary load on the body, because you have to, frankly, put pressure on the tool to saw;
- Fuel consumption of up to 30%, which is due to the need to go through a larger cycle of revolutions to achieve the same result;
- accelerated wear of the bar and other chain saw parts.
In addition to all these adverse effects of a dull saw, there is a high probability of the chain jamming in the barrel and injury to the operator doing the work.
Sharpening Angles and Chainsaw Tooth Configuration
To be able to sharpen chains correctly, the first thing to do is to understand what functional elements a single link, or cutting element consists of:
- The base is the lower part of the tooth, which has holes to connect to the rest of the chain and hides in the guide channel of the bar during operation. It is this part that is subject to lubrication.
- A special limiter is a part of the tooth design that allows the cutter to remove only a certain thickness of wood shavings in one pass. Thanks to the chain does not get stuck in the fibers, and the chainsaw does not jam.
- The so-called tooth blade is a cutter that consists of vertical and horizontal working surfaces that form the cutting edges.
The tooth blades, or cutting edges, must be sharpened at a certain angle, otherwise it is difficult to achieve the optimal cutting performance of the chain. The upper blade (horizontal) has the function of plunging the tooth into the wood and forming a groove. The lateral or end blade (vertical) helps trim the fibers from the side.
The most important thing when sharpening a chainsaw is to achieve the correct angle of the upper blade, which should be between 60-50 degrees. The angle of the end blade should be between 85-60 degrees.
It is also worth adhering to the angle in plan (sharpening angle), namely the one that is clearly visible when you look at the chain link from above. it departs from the lateral edge along the front line and should be 10-15 degrees.
Productivity of cross-cutting wood sawing operations increases by increasing chain saw chain sharpening angle to the maximum possible and vice versa. Chains to be sharpened longitudinally in the tree trunk should be sharpened at an angle of about 10 degrees.
Never touch the depth stop unnecessarily: incorrect grinding can cause the tool to vibrate. Its finishing is made by a special template.
How manual sharpening is inferior to machine sharpening
It is possible to get accustomed to and perform manual sharpening of chainsaw chain without much difficulty. But there are nuances here, because it is not as effective as sharpening with a machine tool in the first place. The biggest disadvantages of manual sharpening of chain cutting teeth:
- Difficulty to maintain the required angle. you should not think that you can sharpen a chainsaw chain with only one round file, this operation will require at least a special guide and a second flat file.
- Slow guide speed. On a tooth it is necessary to fix a guide, to carry out manipulations with a circular file, to check compliance of a gap of the limiter, if necessary to correct it with a flat file, and only after that to proceed to the following tooth.
- Need to gain experience. Despite the different helping devices for sharpening chainsaws manually, first of all you need to feel the process, and for this you need some experience.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain
Today there are several possible ways of sharpening the saw chain:
Below we will consider in detail each of the proposed methods to return the chain of a chainsaw to its former sharpness. Important! Regardless of the chosen method, safety precautions must not be neglected. Be sure to use safety glasses (or face shield) and gloves for your work.
One way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is with an angle grinder
This method is not very welcomed by professionals because of the high risk of damaging both the tool and the person who is sharpening the saw. Many people like this method at first sight, but in practice it is more complicated than it seems.
- The chain must remain on the bar.
- A disc (preferably not new) with a thickness of one and a half to two millimeters is mounted on the angle grinder.
- There must be a small obstacle in front of the chain and guide bar.
- Angle of sharpening is the same as described in the first method.
- Always retighten the chain after the process.
Professionals especially do not recommend this method for beginners, since there is a high risk of severe injury.
- Comparatively fast compared with a file.
- Cheap (there is too low a risk of the angle grinder disc becoming unusable later on).
- Virtually no physical effort is required.
With an electric sharpening machine
Electric sharpening machines
Such machines have special functions for sharpening at certain angles. With this machine you can be sure that the disc is perfectly and accurately guided to the chain. There are also machines with a special vise for clamping the chain. This method is best suited for beginners, because comfort and safety are guaranteed. The cost of such a machine is directly related to its functionality.
With a machine tool with a manual drive
The hand-held tool looks like a compound bow saw. Except that in the place where the blade of such a saw would be located, there is a file. Such a machine makes it possible to sharpen and adjust the chain saw teeth to the desired size. The machine has an integrated mechanism so that the right size can be adjusted.
During the process, you need only two or three movements, after which you can move on to the next tooth. The limiter can also be sharpened with this machine. The only difference is the file itself, or rather its shape. As for sharpening the teeth a round file is needed, and for sharpening the stop a flat file is needed.
Machine tools with manual drive
- Before you sharpen the saw in any way, you need to turn it on for about a minute. This is to ensure that the lubricating oil gets to each piece.
- It is mandatory to sharpen the chain from time to time and never leave it for later.
- Watch chain tension as you work. If problems are detected, it is worth correcting them immediately. A loose chain is a safety hazard.
Above are some of the most common ways to sharpen a chain saw. It is worth choosing your method on the basis of your skills, knowledge of safety rules and experience with the tool.
A chainsaw chain is made up of two teeth. Each piece is a separate piece with holes for the axle to be connected in a closed chain. The tooth has two edges: a top edge and a side edge. The first one is at an angle to the direction of travel and removes the wood. The second part serves as an end-blade and is designed to carry the swarf away. The cutting link design also includes a cutting depth limiter, which determines the maximum height of the layer to be removed.
Although the design is identical, each saw has its own configuration, in which the values of such parameters as cutter angle, edge distance, height of link profile, etc. are precisely specified. д. These values are directly dependent on the nature of the application and the density of the material to be cut. There are two different shapes of saw chain teeth:
Chisel: Straightforged. High sawing speed due to smaller surface contact area. Used for cutting hardwood. The disadvantages are fast wear, the need for constant dressing and difficult sharpening.
Chipper: sickle-shaped edge. Rounding reduces saw chain efficiency, but makes it easier to maintain. Sharpening can be done with a regular round file.
Overloading, rough handling, abrasion from soil particles and other factors can damage even a new chain. Timely chainsaw chain sharpening procedure helps to preserve the tool: prolongs its service life and reduces the risk of breakage. The operation is performed routinely and as needed.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain
Chainsaw chain sharpening is a procedure that gardeners and professional woodcutters regularly encounter. In this article, the master plumber will tell you how to restore the damaged teeth of the saw headset, and quickly return it to its previous working condition.
To understand how to properly sharpen the chain, it is necessary to understand the basic principles of its construction and operation. You can’t just sharpen a chain by eye, you’ll need to know the basic characteristics of the chain and its components.
A chainsaw chain consists of three types of links made of high-alloyed steel:
- Cutters. basic chain components. A distinction is made between right-handed and left-handed, which are arranged alternately, their cutting edges being positioned above the plane of the bar. Tooth design includes cut depth limiters.
- Drives (shanks). are used to transmit the torque from the gasoline motor to the chain through the drive sprocket. This feature extends sprocket life and gives the chain a more stable hold on the bar.
- Connecting. connects the shanks and cutting teeth of the chain.
One of the most important chain elements is the cutting tooth that cuts into the wood and removes chips. The tooth depth limiter determines the thickness of the wood chip and limits the depth of penetration into the wood.
Depending on the type of chain, the recommended settings relative to the limiter are 0.025″ (0.65 mm) or 0.030″ (0.75 mm).
A long life of any chainsaw depends on proper care and use, including the use of the chain head. The good performance of the latter influences the performance of the device and the productivity parameters. Improper sharpening can cause some performance issues with the saw itself. Most often it is:
- Curved cuts;
- High loads on the saw, resulting in increased wear of parts of the device, and hence a reduction in the service life of the entire device;
- Increased fuel consumption.
If the cut produces fine, dusty chips and the saw itself sinks into the cut with great force, the target has blunted.
There are other signs of a dull chain:
- The speed of the tool has decreased;
- Uneven and sharp sawdust is produced;
- You must use excessive force to cut through wood;
- The chain is loose or has become slack.
A chainsaw chain can quickly become blunt for the following reasons:
- If you work with the saw too often;
- When the operator puts a lot of pressure on the saw while sawing;
- If the chain is made of low-quality metal, or if the steel has undergone the wrong heat treatment;
- When frequently sawing raw or resinous wood;
- When sawing hardwood trees such as: oak, birch, cherry, acacia, elm, ash and others;
- If the chain encounters obstacles in the form of sand or stones;
- If the chain is not properly sharpened or has insufficient tension during operation.
The design of all chain saws is similar, so the chain removal algorithm will be the same:
- First put on protective cotton gloves to avoid cuts from the cutting teeth.
- Remove the protective boot from the chain saw and lay it on its side on a flat surface.
- Unscrew the fastening nuts that hold the body and guide bar using a socket wrench of the correct diameter, remove the top cover.
- Now slide the guide bar all the way down to the sprocket, loosen the chain, and remove the working parts from the fastening bolts.
- Detach the chain from the bar.
Start the sharpening process by determining how the cutting teeth work. The cutting part of the cutter slices through the wood like a planer, but the depth of cut is controlled by the limiter above.
Hand tools (files and templates) are usually used for sharpening, but the chain can also be sharpened on a machine.
It is necessary to sharpen the element only at a certain angle, it directly influences the chainsaw performance.
Blades angled for efficient cutting. The back of the back of the tooth creates a back angle and makes it easy to plunge the edge into the wood.
The back blade is needed for cutting laterally against the wood fibers. Therefore, it is sharpened at a back angle.
The edge of the upper blade should create a front angle of 60 to 85 degrees relative to the bottom of the tooth.
Upper blade may have a 50- to 60-degree angle, depending on type of saw.
The sharpening angle may depend on the type of work with the chainsaw. A sharp angle (but not less than 25 degrees) is needed to cut very hard, frozen wood efficiently!), for soft wood this parameter should be increased. In addition to a faster cut, this solution reduces vibration during operation and promotes a smoother running of the chain.
The distance between the stop and the top edge should be between 0.5 and 0.8 mm. Increasing this distance by over-grinding leads to lower cutting speed, excessive vibration and an increased risk of kickback when sawing. That’s why it’s important to know how to properly sharpen a chain saw to make sawing as easy and productive as possible, and for the chain to work properly and for a long time.
“In the course of using a chainsaw, I’ve learned that no machine can sharpen it better than your hands! I’ve been working with saws for 20 years, but I’ve been sharpening with a machine tool only when I have to sharpen it fast and without sharpness standards. I started to work with Ural and Taiga, even at felling, and then I work with log houses and wooden buildings in general. All these machines are rubbish, especially when the RPM is high and the wheel rotates to one side”.