How much should be between the wheels on a power tiller

Starting the power tiller

Each time before starting the engine, check the oil level and the amount of fuel. the lack of both can put the motor out of operation. The diesel engine is fueled by seasonal diesel (for warm or cold seasons). Before start-up it is necessary to check the operation of the clutch, steering wheel. The systems will move with a certain amount of force.

To start the engine, you need to free the electric starter tubes from the air, which will later fill with diesel. When starting by hand, it is necessary to give access to fuel, gas and a certain amount of rocking of the starter. The decompressor returns to its original state, and the engine starts.

For two-stroke engines use gasoline (dilution proportions of oil are given in the instructions). To start a single axle tractor, you open the gas tank, point the handle to “start”, move the starter a few times without turning on the ignition. And only then turn on the ignition to start the engine. Then the handlebar should be at the “work” mark.

With an electric starter, simply turn on the ignition and start the engine.

Mini Power Tiller tyre size idea info �� हिंदी मे �� �� 29 April 2020

How to make a homemade differential for a power tiller with your own hands. drawings

How to make a differential for a power tiller with your own hands? As a rule, the operation of a power tiller does not require long rotation of the wheel relative to the drive axle.

Because of this, it is common to use what are often called “semi-differential” circuits, which allow the wheel to turn freely about the axis at a certain angle.

For more on the “semi-differential,” see

In this case, the simplest mechanism looks like a bushing with a transverse slit that is mounted on the axle of a power tiller. Inside of the hub is inserted a short axle, secured against falling out by the bolt wrapped into its body through the slot, and the wheel is mounted directly on the axle.

In this case, when the motoblock is moving, the drive axle turns the sleeve freely until the rear edge of the slot is against the bolt, and then through it transmits the torque to the axle.

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During turning, the wheel, seeking to overtake the drive, advances the bolt forward along the slot, breaking the torque transmission, and the angle of the easy turning of the power tiller depends on the length of the slot.

Such extensions are extremely simple and can be made by machine operators of low skill, and therefore are cheap and widespread. They are usually made with a few extra holes, allowing you to vary the track width of the power tiller and rigidly link the wheel to the drive axle if necessary.

The drawings of these self-made differentials are widely available on the Internet.

The disadvantage of the described design is a relatively small angle of free rotation of the wheel (240 degrees or less), as the cross-slot greatly reduces the overall strength of the mechanism, and a lot of internal friction, especially with the inevitable ingress of mud inside the hub.

Most often extensions with free stroke are used on lightweight power tillers, like VAZ 2121.

Differential for power tillers Salyut and the like Texas, Proab, VIKING, Forza, Sadko, Don, Huter, Profi, having a relatively large mass, has a slightly more complicated design, but also a larger angle of free stroke. in the range of 330 degrees.

This is ensured by the fact that the meshing is carried out by the protrusions on the extension of the drive axle and on the freely rotating hub mounted on it, equipped with ball bearings. Accordingly, the hub can make almost a full turn relative to the axis, until it rests against the opposite edge of the ledge.

The single-axle tractor is easier to turn with these differentials.

A number of designs allow the wheels to turn freely about the axle and more than one revolution. For example, the differential on Fermer power tillers consists of two clutches controlled by levers on the handlebars.

If necessary, the owner of the power tiller can disengage the clutch, allowing the corresponding wheel to rotate for as long as desired.

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Working with a power tiller

Versatility. A distinctive feature of power tillers. With their help, it is possible to perform a variety of works that the owners of cottages and rural houses have to deal with. The realization of various functions is provided by numerous adaptations for the power tiller. Tilling, plowing, planting and harvesting potatoes and other root crops, weeding, mowing grass. These are just the basic jobs these versatile, indispensable machines have to do in the private backyard.

Plowing with a power tiller

The first thing to do before plowing with a power tiller is to install the necessary equipment on it. metal wheels with grousers, hitch and plow.

The metal wheels serve to provide traction of the power tiller, without them it will not develop the tractive force necessary for pulling the plow. Optimal for plowing wheels are considered the following dimensions: diameter. 50-60 cm, rim width. 18-20 cm. A smaller diameter will not provide the necessary clearance under the gearbox of the power tiller and the ground, and with narrower wheels the single axle tractor will “walk” in a furrow. It is desirable that the rim of the metal wheel is not solid, because then the soil will be between the shoes and the single-axle tractor will be slipping.

Wheels should be as heavy as possible. Practice shows that quality plowing with a power tiller weighing less than 70 kg is impossible, the machine just slows down. The heavier the single-axle tractor, the deeper and more efficient it plows, and the easier it is to work with. Additional weights should be attached to the wheels or the front part of the power tiller.

The distance between wheels (track width) should be about 60 cm. This corresponds to the optimum plough working width of 19-21 cm.

After installing the wheels, you must install the hitch. There are many hitch designs, both specialized, suitable only for certain models of power tillers, and universal. No matter what the design of the hitch, the main thing is that it allows you to set and adjust the position of the plough to the depth, track width and angle of attack.

Setting the ploughing depth. It is best to adjust this setting with a helper. To set the ploughing depth, you need to put the single-axle tractor on a level place, running the wheels on supports (wooden planks, bricks) 13-15 cm high. The single axle tractor itself should be in an upright position (ridgeline). longitudinal part of the hitch. must be positioned horizontally). Set the plow on the ground so that it touches the base with the whole edge of the share, then hitch it to the coupler.

When ploughing, the plough leg always has to be in a vertical position. Even when the right wheel of the power harvester goes to the bottom of the furrow. To meet this condition, there are arc adjustment slots in the plow hitch to tilt the plow body to the right or left. Therefore, after the first two or three passes, when the single-axle tractor tilts to the right and the right wheel goes to the bottom of the furrow, you must loosen the groove nuts, turn the plough body counterclockwise (when looking at the single-axle tractor from behind) and set the plough leg vertically. Do not forget to tighten the nuts.

Adjusting plough to track width. When setting the plough to the track width, the right edge of the ploughshare is the reference point. It should be in line with the left (inside) edge of the right wheel. This will ensure that the soil layer is completely undercut and the soil is easily shoveled away, reducing the amount of traction required for plowing.

Setting the angle of attack. The plough should rest on the ground with both heel and toe. If he only touches the heel, he will be pushed out of the ground. It will go too deep. Adjustments may have to be made to tilt the plough forward or tilt it backward. An indication of initial correct setting is usually the verticality of the plow leg.

Some useful tips. The straightness of the first furrow is very important. When ploughing, the plough pulls the single-axle tractor to the right because of the asymmetry of the load acting on it. A person for whom working with a power tiller is not quite usual, it will be difficult to make the first furrow straight. It is desirable to have a landmark in the form of a stretched cord or a straight line drawn on the ground. To make the task easier you can make the first furrow shallower than the next one. 10-12 cm. When plowing further the single axle tractor will be guided by its right wheel following the furrow.

If the length of the ridge allows it, it is better to plow with a support wheel, which sets the depth of plow. It may be placed either on the left side of the plough (the wheel rolls over the uncultivated area), or on the right side (rolls over the furrow).

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It is easier and more comfortable to work with the single-axle tractor if you turn the steering wheel to the left. so you can walk on the surface which is not ploughed.

Ploughing should be done along the long side of the plot. in this case there will be fewer turns.

Pile ridges (two ridges facing each other) and furrows should be avoided. Some experienced plowmen advise to place the furrows in the middle of plots, so that the resulting ditch facilitates the drainage of water after the snow melts. This will allow the ground to dry faster.

For high-quality plowing, a single-axle tractor must have at least 2-3 front speeds, so it will be easier to select the speed, which also depends on the diameter of the wheels. If the speed is too fast, it will be hard to plow. If the speed is too slow, the plow will not move the soil with the necessary force for overturning.

It is not recommended to plow with an automatic clutch (in which the gear is engaged when the engine speed increases). Such a clutch will not work for a long time. You must not use this tiller to dig potatoes or pull a trailer.

Soil that can normally be tilled can be pierced to the depth of the bayonet with a metal rod with a diameter of 10-15 mm. Sometimes the ground is so hard that the machine slips when the plough is fully lowered. How to work with the tiller in this case? You need to plow the first time with a shallower plow, and then repeat plowing to full depth. If your soil is so hard that it is not pierced by the rod, you are out of luck: you have a “dead” land. Road or construction machines killed it, inept use of plowless (no-till) technology, or something else. Not even every tractor can plow such an area. That’s why you should only work hard soil when it’s wet, not dry, and in stages. Also try tilling it in several passes, gradually working it in deeper. Or avoid using a power tiller, and hire a tractor for the initial plowing.

Cultivating with a power tiller

Two parameters are controlled when installing a conventional rocker arm. Plunging depth and angle of attack. In this case there is no need to put the single-axle tractor on stands, because the plowing depth is less than that of the plow. A single-axle tractor is simply placed on level ground, the ridgepole is lowered to the ground and secured to the coupler. You can dig it a little deeper into the ground, so that it sinks below the bearing surface of the wheels. In doing so, the buttstock should be vertical, which roughly provides the desired angle of attack. During work, it may be necessary to change it if the mucker goes too deep or comes out of the ground. Then, in the first case, either tilt the share back a little by lifting the share or tilt it forward by increasing the penetration.

How to hoe the potatoes with a power tiller equipped with a disc hoe? Very simple. The disc coulter is easy and comfortable to work with.

The main thing is to set the two basic settings correctly. The distance between the bottom points of the discs (it must be equal to the width of the row spacing. 35-70 cm depending on the crop) and the angle of rotation relative to the horizontal axis (angle of attack). Because the angle must not only cover the potatoes well, it must be equal for the right and the left disc, otherwise the share will go sideways.

There is one more parameter. the angle of the discs relative to the vertical axis, but it is usually constant and does not require adjustment.

Important feature. It is desirable for the wheels of the power tiller to have a diameter of about 70 cm and a width of 10-14 cm. This is to avoid damaging the plants. So before you plow with your power tiller, using a disc coulter, you need to take care of having the right wheels.

The hitch for the disc planter has a special feature. There is no ridge on this one, but an arrow bar replaces it, so that all the necessary settings can be adjusted.

Planting potatoes with a power tiller

Packer with adjustable wing spacing

On a single-axle tractor, metal wheels and a tyre packer are fitted. The track width should be 60-65 cm, and the distance between the wings of the planter. Minimum.

Make furrows over the whole area with the distance between centers equal to track width. т.е. 60-65 cm. You should try to make the first groove even, then all the rest will be even. The potatoes are placed in the furrows.

Potatoes laid in the furrows made by the planter

Metal wheels are replaced with rubber wheels while maintaining the track width. Set the distance between the wings of the hoe as much as possible and fill the furrows with the hoe. Rubber wheels roll over the furrows with the potatoes without damaging them in any serious way. This or about this type of power tillage is used on most private farms.

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Planting potatoes with a power tiller is worthwhile if the area to be planted is relatively large. Otherwise there is no sense in buying expensive equipment. The plot needs to be prepared before planting. The soil must be loosened or ridged before planting.

The potato planter for the tiller has a furrow former, a conveyor mechanism for placing potatoes in the furrow, and a disc tip for backfilling the furrow. That’s why all operations. cutting of furrows, stacking of potatoes and backfilling of the furrow are performed in one pass.

much, wheels, power, tiller

As with the planter, metal wheels are put on the single axle tractor before the planting operation. The machine is placed on level ground and the potato planter is hitched to it. The potato planter should be attached to the power harvester and adjusted according to the instructions of the device. Usually the settings include the following parameters: furrow penetration, as well as the depth, width and angle of attack of the ridge forming discs. In general, the adjustment principle is as follows: To form a higher ridge, bring the discs nearer and increase the penetration and angle of attack; to reduce the ridge, spread the discs wider and reduce the penetration and angle of attack.

Harvesting root crops

The tiller for power tillers is set in much the same way as the share bar. with the difference that more attention is paid to the immersion depth of the tool. The digger should rest on a firm layer of soil underneath the layer that contains the tubers. It may not be possible to do it the first time, and you’ll have to adjust the depth as you work. If the digger is too high, you’ll find some cut or shredded tubers in the potatoes you’ve dug. Also some tubers will remain in the ground. If the position is too low, the potato digger will pick up excess soil and increase the load on the single axle tractor. If properly adjusted, it is not difficult to dig potatoes with a power tiller. The single axle tractor pulls the potato puller easily and all potatoes are removed to the surface of the furrow.

As in some other cases, it is more comfortable to work with the tiller if its handles are turned to the side. This allows you to follow the machine without stepping on tubers.

It’s easier to dig potatoes with a tiller with pivoting handles

To avoid damaging the rolled potatoes with the wheels of the tiller, dig in one row at a time. For example, start with the even numbered rows and then, having picked up the potatoes, start digging the odd numbered rows. In addition to preventing damage to the potatoes, this kind of digging will help to ensure that both wheels of the power tiller have equal grip on the ground. When digging without skipping, one tine will run in undisturbed soil, the other. along the loosened soil from the previous pass.

Weeding with a power tiller

Tines are mounted in brackets across the width of the row with a slight overlap. One blade mounting (one blade in front of the tine and one behind it) is necessary to prevent the tool from being blocked by cuttings. The tines can be not only double-sided (lancet) but also single-sided. In this case they are fixed so that the blades are directed towards the middle of the row.

One-sided tines can also be mounted so that one row can be worked from both sides.

Weeding potatoes with a power tiller is no different from weeding other crops. Grassing beets, cabbage, carrots. To better control weeds it is advised not to cut them after they have taken root and sprouted, but at the initial stage of growth.

Mowing grass

The rotary mower for your power tiller must be installed and operated in accordance with its manual. The rules of operation are straightforward.

Adjust the engine speed to the engine speed by experimenting with the rotary mower. It depends on grass density, stiffness and degree of softness.

When using a new mower, after the first half hour of operation, stop the single axle tractor and check all fastening connections and retighten them if necessary.

Check lubrication in beetroot gearboxes and the central gearboxes before starting work.

The main sign of a faulty weed whacker is that the grass cutter is uncut. This can happen when the blades get dull (need sharpening) or the drive belt slips (needs tensioning). Increased vibration occurs if the blades are not fixed or are broken. In this case it is necessary to fix or replace the blades. The operation of a power tiller with a strongly vibrating scythe is extremely undesirable, it creates an increased load on all units of the power tiller and is harmful to the health of the working.

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