How to correctly put the clutch disc on the single axle tractor
Clutch disc single axle tractor MTZ (steel/cork)
The company provides a return and exchange of this product in accordance with the requirements of the law.
Returns are possible within 14 days after receipt (for goods of proper quality).
Return delivery of the goods is carried out by agreement.
According to the current legislation you can return the goods of proper quality or exchange them if:
- the goods have not been used and have no traces of use by the consumer: scratches, chips, scuffs, stains, etc. п.;
- Goods are fully completed and factory packing is preserved;
- All labels and factory markings are intact;
- The product retains its appearance and consumer properties.
How the clutch works
The clutch for a power tiller clutch is made up of several important components, such as actuators, drive element and actuator components.The drive part design includes a slave and friction disc. Cylindrical springs run around the perimeter of the pressure plate. They are used to compress the disc they pick up. The other end of the spring contacts the housing. The adjustment mechanism is made up of the release levers, which are connected to the housing of the pressure plates by a guide and a lever.
Instructions for adjusting the clutch
The main task of the tractor clutch adjustment is to maintain the optimum clearance of 4 mm between the ends of the release levers and the diverter pin thrust bearings. Increased wear, which is also experienced by MTZ and Model 40a parts, occurs when there is no necessary gap between the parts and direct contact between the surfaces. An indication of a problem. the system has begun to slip. In addition, the free travel of the pedal is reduced, being up to 25 mm. In a normal state this parameter is 35-50 mm, and the working stroke of 70-90 mm (shown in the diagram below). The solution is possible in two ways, described below and is suitable for both types of clutches. When reassembling the actuator, it is important that the servo springs are properly installed in the cavity provided on the bracket. They keep the pedal in the topmost position and reduce the force when the pedal is depressed.
Tuning by draught
- Open the cover on top of the unit
- Remove the traction fork. release the cotter pin and remove the axle
- Set the distance in 4 mm. by screwing down the fork you can change the length of rod
- Return, cotter pin and put the axle, and then close the cover
Adjusting with bolts
- After opening the cover, loosen the nuts of the adjusting bolts (see Figure 22)
- Return the original length of the pull, if you have previously performed a calibration in 1 way
- Move the ends of the levers toward the engine 7-8 mm, while loosening the nuts
- Align the lever of the basket with the fork of the pull rod, place and cotter pin the axle part
- Use a feeler gauge to complete the clearance adjustment. no more than 0.4cm
- Measure the gap between the levers. the maximum allowable difference is 0.4 mm
What other variants there may be?
Hydraulic clutches are used in some cases. Its clutches work by the force exerted by the flow of fluid. A distinction is made between hydrostatic and hydrodynamic clutches. With the second type of product, the force created by the flow gradually changes. It is the hydrodynamic design is used more and more often now, because it has less wear and tear and works much more confidently.
You can meet and drawings of clutches with electromagnetic clutches. The engine and transmission in such a system are connected by a magnetic field. It is usually created by electromagnets, although sometimes powder with magnetic properties can also be used. Clutches are also classified according to their lubrication requirements.
The so-called dry versions work also in non-lubricated condition, the wet ones work only in an oil bath.
90 year Old Man Fiat Tractor 480 Clutch Plate Repairing-Tractor Clutch Plate Repair Complete Process
It is important to remember that clutches can have a different number of plates. The multi-disc version implies a body with grooves inside. Specially shaped discs with grooves are inserted there. When they rotate on their own axis, one after the other, they transmit a force to the transmission. It is also possible to make a centrifugal automatic clutch without a turner.
When designing and manufacturing such products, one should strive to minimize friction. If this force is used for work, there is a dramatic increase in the non-productive use of mechanical energy. Also keep in mind that centrifugal clutches are not well suited to transmitting high forces. In this case, the efficiency of the device also drops sharply. Gradually, the centrifugal clutch pads rub off, becoming cone shaped.
As a result, it begins to slip. Repair is possible, but you will have to:
- use a quality lathe;
- To grind the pads down to the metal;
- to screw on the friction band;
- use glue for it;
- to keep the workpiece for 1 hour in a rented muffle furnace;
- turn the pads to the required thickness;
- prepare the grooves through which the oil will pass;
- put it all in place.
As you can see, everything is quite complicated, time consuming and expensive. What’s worse, such a clutch can only conventionally be considered self-made. And the quality depends on too many factors, including things that can’t be controlled. Even a multi-plate clutch is much easier to make. Such products are recommended for the equipment of agricultural units with transverse placement of the engine.
It is important! Parts of the clutch are aligned with the transmission and the starting unit. All of this is lubricated with engine oil from a common source. Used clutches from old motorcycles are used as blanks. The sprocket is connected to the outer drum so that it turns freely on the shaft. A ratchet is added to the drive drum. The drive and main discs are aggregated to a common shaft. It is important to keep their mobility. The structure is fixed with the help of nuts. The alignment of the leading and dependent discs is done in pairs. The former are docked to the outer drum with the help of protrusions, and the latter. with the help of teeth.
Which side should the clutch disc be facing the engine?? How to correct?
Adjusting the MAZ clutch is much more complicated than repairing the element. We will touch upon the nuances of adjustment in the following articles. And now let’s study how to replace the MAZ clutch. Before you start repairing a MAZ part, we advise you to think about the causes of failure. MAZ clutch can fail both because of breakage of the slave disk, and because of wear of bearings, springs and seals. As a consequence, you may notice that the truck:
Another cause of maz clutch failure. it’s very difficult to shift gears.
Eliminate these symptoms of wear can adjust the maz clutch.
The very first thing to do is to check the CCU.
Press down on the clutch pedal. Pay attention to the PSU rod. If the element is moving, i.e. it gradually presses out the yoke and the clutch release, the part is undamaged and does not need to be replaced. Maz clutch repair has several steps. After checking the CCU, look at the clutch cover. Ideally it should not have oil leaks. In some cases, the clutch can “slip” and because of excess oil. Let’s see, let’s eliminate the causes. If the car doesn’t work properly even after oil drainage and clutch testing. repair of MAZ clutch is needed next.
- Cyclone with clear housing
- Oil Bath
- Wire filter element
- Fine-mesh foam filter element
installed on the filter’s air intake The transparent cyclone has an outer grid that traps coarse debris, leaves, grass, straw, twigs, etc.п. The cyclone then separates the fine particles and dust and places them in the conical dust canister without allowing them to be re-suspended. The transparent casing of the cyclone dust container makes it easy to check the dust level and clean it in time.
The air then enters the mirror of the oil bath, where most of the dust settles. This oil can be quickly and easily replaced with clean oil if needed. The dust that remains in the air adheres to the wire filter element that is coated with an oil film. At the end of the fine-mesh filter element, the foam filter element finely filters and retains the finest dust.
How to keep the clutch in good condition?
Just a few simple rules will help you keep the assembly in perfect technical condition:
- Watch the bolts, retighten them in time.
- Lubricate the rubbing surfaces of the parts periodically.
- Check that bolt connections are in good condition.
- Replace the axial bearings and also the ball bearings on the main clutch shaft with roller bearings. They do not need to be lubricated; the grease from the factory remains good for the life of the bearings.
- After every 230 hours of operation grease the moving parts of the coupling, arms and legs with the grease nipple on the left side of the housing.
- Don’t forget to lubricate leadframe bearing.
- Use solidol as a lubricant. It’s convenient to put it in with a rod syringe.
Varieties of power tiller clutch mechanisms
Modern power tillers have different design features. There are different types of clutches that can be fitted to your machinery:
- Friction clutch. This type is the most popular with farmers. These mechanisms are easy to maintain, can work for a long time without interruption, have high efficiency;
- centrifugal clutch. The centrifugal clutch has not received the recognition it deserves due to its long duration and the rapid wear and tear of its parts;
- power harvester belt clutch. Such mechanism is not very reliable, it has a low performance, and it quickly wears out when working with powerful engines;
- Hydraulic clutch. Pressing the pedal starts the main piston to move. During its rotation, the lubricating fluid is set in motion. The pressure from the piston is transferred to the connecting rod, the springs perform the automatic recovery of the piston to the starting position;
- disc clutch on power tillers. All the elements of the mechanism are very reliable, so you can start the machine smoothly. There are single–disc and multi-disc equipment with almost the same operating principle.
There are dry, air clutch types and those that work in a bath filled with engine oil.
There is no need to drain the oil or remove the engine from the frame to disassemble the clutch. It will be enough to bend the bike on a side, unscrew the details that prevent removal of the clutch cover and then remove the cover itself and that’s all. In my case it so happened that engine had to be removed from the frame in any way.
This is how clutch parts look like under the cover. As you can see there is nothing complicated and even less new here.
First of all we check the motor chain: press it with a screwdriver or a finger and see how much slack it has. If the sag is more than 20mm, we change the chain, if the sag is less, it can be used without problems.
Using homemade hook made of old bicycle needle we remove reinforcements of springs from clutch pressure plate.
We remove and set aside the pressure plate and remove the clutch rod from the transmission intake shaft.
Remove the clutch disks from the crankcase and carefully inspect them. Plastic discs are inspected first of all for wear cracks and the integrity of the tabs where they enter the basket.
Check the metal discs, including pressure and backing discs for warping of the working surfaces. To do this, lay them alternately on a mirror or a piece of glass and look. If the disk does not lie on the glass with its whole surface and wobbles when pressing on it, such disk should be replaced by another one.
If to neglect this moment, then the clutch will lead and slip and no adjustment will correct the situation.
Using old unnecessary screwdriver unbend locking washer under the nut of the inner drum. Put a puller on the internal clutch drum, which is an unnecessary disk of clutch to which a tire is welded. And with the help of the head for 17 we will unscrew a nut on the drum and remove it from the shaft (left-hand thread).
There was some left washer under the inner clutch drum
When inspecting the inner drum, pay special attention to the condition of its inner splines.Often and thickly the nut fixing the drum is loosened, the drum starts to dangle on the shaft during engine operation and due to this breaks the splines of the secondary shaft of the gearbox and the drum itself. And then no matter how well you tighten the nut, it still will unscrew and eventually you will reach the point where the splines will shear off.
To be sure of the continued serviceability of the splines, put the drum on the secondary shaft and wiggle it. If the drum will have a little play, it’s quite normal, but if it wobbles very much, you’d better replace it with a new one.
In my case, the drum has been changed and most likely it was changed because the splines are worn out. There’s nothing to break except the splines.
Just like with the inner drum nut, unbend the lock washer, put a tin rod or a piece of wood under the motor chain and undo the nut fixing the sprocket (right-hand thread).
Using a regular double-leg puller pull the sprocket off the hub and remove it with the basket and chain. The sprocket sits on a key when you remove it, don’t lose it.
There should be some shims under the basket on the secondary shaft. If they aren’t there, someone has already fiddled with them
There is essentially nothing to break in the basket itself or in the drive sprocket. The only thing you should pay attention to is the condition of the teeth of the kickstarter ratchet mechanism. The kickstarter ratchet mechanism here is very reliable and rarely fails, but it wouldn’t hurt to take it apart.
In my case, the ratchet mechanism was in pretty good condition. Even in this threadbare condition, it still served its purpose. Rivets are not loose, teeth are all in place and there is no excessive wear, so leave it as it is and let’s not touch anything.