How to cut an oval with a hand mill. Making a nozzle for a hand cutter to cut an even circle

Independent milling of wood and wood

Handing lumber, inserting loops, manufacturing technological holes and recesses, wood carving. All this can such a device as a milling mill. Over, this can not only professional equipment, but also relatively inexpensive manual copies. But the work of a hand.Free wood mill requires the knowledge of some techniques and rules. About all this. In the article.

Milling cutter is a device for processing wood or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, also forms technological recesses. A groove, a comb, excavation for the installation of loops, etc.P. According to the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types for performing different operations), and there are manual milling mills. Manual electrophremsers. A universal tool that allows you to carry out any operations. To change the operation, you just need to change the nozzle. The cutter and/or its location on the details.

Machines are used mainly in mass production. The milling cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece moves. Along a certain trajectory. When working with a manual milling mill, the situation is opposite. Fix the workpiece motionless, move the milling mill. When processing large volumes of the same parts, it is more convenient to fix the hand cutter on the horizontal surface, making something similar to a milling machine.

Homemade milling machine. A horizontal plane with a hole in the middle, to which a hand cutter is attached from below

There are many different types of milling machines, but for a home master or for semi.Professional use, universal. They install various mills and special devices, which allows you to perform any operations. Just for their implementation it takes more time and dexterity than on a specialized machine.

What can be done with a hand cutter:

  • Grooves and excavations of any shape (curly, rectangular, complex shapes);
  • The holes are through and blind;
  • Process edges and ends (can be made straight, figured);
  • Cut complex details;
  • Apply inscriptions, patterns, drawings to the surface;
  • Copy details.

Such operations are used in carpentry, in the production and assembly of furniture. Even cut the lock or loops on the door. This can also be a hand mill. Over, it will do it much faster and more elegant than similar operations, but performed using a hand tool.

Tags: a circle of a firezer, without a radius plank, finalization of a Fraser, a ring by a raiser, #cc_ tool

I used to work, then tired, not conveniently, I switched to a “colander”))))

You can make almost any circle with your adaptation, well, let’s say on the squeak, not a problem, so? I screwed the self.Tapping screw, put three marks and forward. And if they need to be done ten? Every mark, every! It is necessary to measure it again and at the same time it will not work equally evenly.And in a squirrel it is enough to mark three holes and drove! No need to twist self.Cut, do not try to try on))

Mine costs 0 p 0 kopecks (((I do not urge everyone to do this ((just shared (((

I made various devices, they went out to me the same at 0))) You shared, this is good. You left the right to comment, I also share my experience))

You can make almost any circle with your adaptation, well, let’s say on the squeak, not a problem, so? I screwed the self.Tapping screw, put three marks and forward. And if they need to be done ten? Every mark, every! It is necessary to measure it again and at the same time it will not work equally evenly.And in a squirrel it is enough to mark three holes and drove! No need to twist self.Cut, do not try to try on))

I will need to very smoothly in the columns to cut the recesses for planting the foods of a circle of small diameter, do not tell me how to do it?

The author’s option is probably best for you. Of course, if there is a milling. It is possible without it, but it is more complicated and not so perfectly evenly

Milling mill that is, I simply do not see the perfect shape as a result)

I cannot answer for the author, in fact, you can do everything well by taking the idea, but apparently not his finished product))

The tool required for manufacture:

  • Manual milling cutter with a straight cutter;
  • Drill or electric screwdriver with a set of drills and nozzles;
  • Jigsaw;
  • Electric welding;
  • Corner grinder;
  • Sandpaper.

We plan a segment of plywood by verifying the dead points of the circul. The first is the center of the milling platform, the milling place of the cutter. Here you need to drill a hole with a diameter equal to the size of the cutter. The second is the needle of the circul located on the metal plate.

We determine the position of the first point by placing a milling cutter on the plywood, outlining the circle of its platform, and making a hole with a milling cutter.

Next in the middle of the plywood segment, draw a fishing line for a trimmer. Its length is equal to the radius of the circle obtained after processing with a milling.

Retreating a centimeter from the middle, draw two lines. These are the borders of the groove for the circular plate. We make the ends of the groove semicircular.

We fix the plywood with self.Tapping screws on the desktop. We put the milling cutter to the depths slightly exceeding the thickness of the metal plate. We also put a restrictive bar for processing on a flat line. We start processing from the location of the milling cutter.

Having reached the opposite end, we return to the starting point. You may have to go through this trajectory several times until you get a clean groove free from the remnants of the veneer.

We uncover the plywood, and turn it over to the opposite side. We put the cutter to a depth a little less than the thickness of the plywood and strictly in the center of the groove made. We carry out a milling cutter from the starting point of the immersion axis to make a through groove equal to the size of the cutter. The finished groove is cleaned with sandpaper.

Most of the plywood we will not need. Therefore, we marry at the base of the circle to the platform of the mill and at the opposite end several labels forming the lines of our circul.

We mark the circuit circuit, and cut it with a jigsaw. Zausenets after sawing are easily removed with sandpaper.

We mark the metal plate by the size of the groove for it. Cut the corner grinding, grinding and staring the edges. We seek the plate to go freely in the groove, on the faner.

At the edges of the plate we make 2 holes: one under the clamping bolt with a lamb (5-6 mm), the second-under the needle of the circul (2-3 mm).

We scald the bolt with the needle in opposite planes. It is most convenient to do this on a magnetic stop for welding or in a vice. A sharpened nail or rod rod is suitable as a needle.

We uncover the platform from the milling cutter, and mark it with the fasteners at the landing place of the circul. We drill them under the fasteners with a gut.

Delements for milling

For full work with a manual milling mill, in addition to the tool, material and the corresponding set of milling, you must have another component. Devices. So that the milling cutter can form a workpiece in accordance with the plan of the master. Cutting the material exactly where it is required. She should be in a strictly defined position at every moment of time regarding the workpiece. To ensure this, numerous devices for a hand cutter serve. Some of them. The most necessary. Are included. Other milling devices are purchased or made with their own hands. At the same time, homemade devices are so simple that for their manufacture you can do without drawings, using only their drawings.

Parallel emphasis

The most used device that goes to the kit for almost every milling mill is a parallel emphasis that provides a straightforward movement of the cutter relative to the basic surface. The latter can be a straight edge of the part, table or guide rails. Parallel emphasis can be used both for milling various grooves located on the plate plate, and for processing edges.

Parallel emphasis for hand cutter: 1. Stop 2. Barrow, 3. Foundation of Fraser, 4. Star stop screw, 5. Accurate setting screw, 6. Mobile carriage, 7. Stacking screw of the movable carriage, 8. Layers, 9. Stack of stopping the stop.

Milling the edge using a parallel stop

To install the device in the operating position, it is necessary to push the rods 2 into the openings of the bed 3, providing the required distance between the supporting surface of the stop and the axis of the cutter, and fix them with a locking screw 4. For the exact positioning of the cutter, you need to release the stop screw 9 and the rotation of the right tuning screw 5 to set the cutter in the desired position. Some models of the stop, the size of the supporting surface can be changed by shifting or pushing the support overlays 8.

If you add one simple part to a parallel stop, then with its help you can milling not only straightforward, but also curved grooves, for example, process a round blank. Over, the inner surface of the bar, located between the emphasis and the workpiece, does not have to have a rounded shape repeating the edge of the processed part. She can be given a simpler form (Figure “a”). At the same time, the trajectory of the cutter will not change.

Cost for milling a rounded surface

Of course, the usual parallel emphasis, thanks to the recess in the center, will orient the milling cutter along the rounded edge, but the position of the milling cutter may not be stable enough.

Tire guide

The guide tire in its functions is similar to a parallel emphasis. Like the latter, it provides a strictly straightforward movement of the milling. The main difference between them is that the tire can be installed at any angle to the edge of the part or table, thereby providing any direction of movement of the cutter in the horizontal plane. In addition, the bus may have elements that simplify the performance of some operations, for example, milling holes located at the same distance from each other (with a certain step), etc.P.

Tire guide

To the table or details the guide tire is attached by clamps or special clamps. The tire can be equipped with an adapter (shoe), which is connected to the base of the milling cutter with two rods. Sliding along the tire profile, the adapter sets the straightforward movement of the cutter.

Иногда (при слишком близком расстоянии шины от фрезера) опорные поверхности шины и фрезера могут оказываться в разных плоскостях по высоте. To align them, some milling cutters are equipped with retractable support legs, which change the position of the milling cutter in height.

Such a device is easy to do with your own hands. The easiest option. This is a long block fixed on the processed part with clamps. The design can be supplemented with lateral stops.

Simple emphasis

Putting a bar with two at once, and more, leveled blanks, they can make grooves in one pass.

Grozing of grooves at once on two blanks

When used as an emphasis, it is inconvenient to have a bar at a certain distance from the line of the future groove. The next two devices are deprived of this inconvenience. The first is made of boards fastened together and plywood. At the same time, the distance from the edge of the stop (boards) to the edge of the base (plywood) is equal to the distance from the cutter to the edge of the base of the milling. But this condition is observed only for cutters of one diameter. Thanks to this, the device is quickly leveled along the line of the edge of the future groove.

Groove milling device

The next device can be used with milling cutters of different diameters, plus when milling the milling cutter rests with its entire sole, and not half, as in the previous device.

Groove milling device

Groove milling device

The leveling of the stop occurs along the edge of the board thrown on the hinges and the central line of the groove. After fixing the emphasis, the thrown board is thrown back, freeing up the place for the milling. The width of the thrown board along with the gap between it and the emphasis (if any) should be equal to the distance from the center of the cutter to the edge of the base of the milling. If you focus on the edge of the cutter and the edge of the future groove, then the device will work with only one cutter diameter.

Work by a hand mill

There are different types of hand mills, however, the most used and universal can be called a manual submersible milling mill, about the work of which and written below. Plastic, perfect wood and universal manual milling cutter. This combination allows you to get products of almost any form. From the simplest in the form of direct planes, to the most complex, more suitable works of art than utilitarian things. The work of a manual mill on wood represents the opportunity to fully enjoy creativity, creating original, exclusive products.

Work by a hand mill

Types of work performed by milling

All operations that are carried out using a hand cutter can be divided into several categories.

hand, mill, making, nozzle, cutter

Milling of grooves, grooves, quarters and other recesses in the workpiece, which can be located both along and across the layers, be open (extend to the edge) or closed. With some exceptions, these forms perform certain constructive functions. Most formed by detachable and inexhaustible connections.

Grooves, grooves, quarter

Milling edges. Profiling. It is used for the production of epaulets (cornices, skirting boards, platbands, graduates, etc.P.), as well as when decorating interiors, the manufacture of furniture and various kinds of crafts. These elements, in addition to functional, also carry a decorative load.

Processed edges

Milling complex surfaces and contours when creating original furniture, exclusive interiors and manufacturing products for various purposes, claiming artistic sophistication. At the same time, templates are widely used to copy repeated complex forms with great accuracy, making them almost completely identical.

Curved contours

Milling of special elements that carry a purely functional load. These are grooves and holes for awnings and locks, spikes, etc.P. In serial production, these elements are carried out by specialized milling mills (add.Ons and.). But in everyday life, universal manual milling mills are quite successful with them.

The recess for the loop

Cutters

A manual milling cutter processes a tree using special milling cutters, consisting of a cylindrical shank (often there are tsangs under the shanks with a diameter of 6, 8 or 12 mm) and the working part with the cutting edge. There are a huge amount of milling plants differing in size and design, the shape of the cutting edge, material. For soft wood, mills with knives made of instrumental high.Speed steel, for solid materials (oak, ash, beech, aluminum, etc. Are used.P.). From hard alloys.

Circle cutting on 14mm iron sheet by hand gas cutter

Cutters

To give the product a certain shape, it is necessary to ensure accurate positioning of the cutter relative to the workpiece in three coordinates. The position of the tool in an upright position is ensured by the immersion mechanism that moves the engine with the cutter along the vertical guide of the bed and stops it in the right position in height.

Positioning in a horizontal plane can be provided by various ways. With the help of a guide bearing mounted on a milling cutter, or a guide sleeve, attached to the reference surface of the milling cutter, as well as many special devices supplied with milling mills and acquired independently or manufactured by yourself. There are a large number of manuals and recommendations describing how to work as a milling cutter using these devices, one of them read here.

When using a milling cutter with a guide bearing, the latter rolls along the edge of the processed part or template located below or above the workpiece, thus providing a certain distance between the mill and part. Cutters with a guide bearing and processing the edges of the parts are called bromic. They are used only to process the edges of the workpieces. There are different forms of bromic milling.

Some types of bromary milling

Profile cutters (a and b) give the edge various curly profiles that carry a decorative load.

Cone mill (c) is designed to mow the edge at an angle of 45 °.

Kamping mill (d) is used to round the edges. It forms a profile in a quarter of a circle and can be of different sizes with a circle of a circle of 3-16 mm.

The disk mill (D) cuts out the horizontal groove of various depths and widths in the workpiece.

The folding cutter (E) is used to milling quarters performing the most different function.

Fighting mill (g) is used to obtain fillets on the edge. It is used to give the edges of decorativeness.

Cutters without guide bearings, called grooves, are designed for processing the workpiece anywhere. Their use requires the use of devices (Read about branded and home.Made devices for a hand cutter here) that ensure the positioning of the cutter in the horizontal plane.

Some types of groove mills

Rectangular groove cutter (a) is perhaps the most used. It is used to milling grooves that ensure the connection of parts. Both indescribable and detachable.

The Fighting Fras (B) creates semicircular grooves or grooves in the workpiece, often performing decorative functions.

V-shaped milling mill (c) forms a groove with walls located at an angle of 45 °. If you introduce a cutter to a great depth, you get a groove with vertical edges. Using a V-shaped cutter, letters and various jewelry cut out.

Rules for working with manual milling tools

Learning to use a woodcock on wood is not at all difficult. Even without work experience, making the first cut to beginners will be much easier if you fulfill all the rules correctly. First of all, it is necessary to ensure the implementation of safety regulations. Work cannot be started without protective glasses or even better than a front protective mask.

The second rule requires that all milling work perform only with a sharp tool. The stupid cutting edge will tear the fibers, or grind the surface, leaving behind the charred places.

How to Cut Mirror Glass. QUICK

And of course, the third rule. When working, the processed part should be rigidly fixed to the workbench. Well, if the work is carried out on the milling machine, the milling cutter itself must have a hard mount.

Over time, if you regularly work with a wood mill, and experience and dexterity. Special techniques for working with the tool will also be developed. But for beginners, the general algorithm of action can be as follows:

  • Before starting work, the tool is being examined and the preparation of the workplace;
  • A suitable mill is selected and fixed in the tsang;
  • The speed of rotation and the depth of milling are set;
  • The workpiece is fixed on the workbench;
  • The correct setting of the milling cutter is checked;
  • Glasses are dressed;
  • The milling cutter is included in the network.
  • The milling process begins.

Rotation speed adjustment

The quality of the work largely depends on how correctly the speed of rotation of the working shaft with a zang cartridge is chosen. The fact is that at high speeds for milling diameter mills, for example, vibration increases markedly with a diameter of 22-44 mm. And if you take into account that when working with solid wooden rocks, the resistance of the material is still increasing, then it will be very difficult to hold in your hands.

Therefore, the work of a hand.Shaped wood mill also provides for the correctly selected tsang rotation speed. When working, it is recommended to use the following tools:

  • For cutters with a shank diameter of 4-10 mm, it is recommended to set the speed equal to 5-7 units on the speed control;
  • For milling plants-12-20 mm-indicators of 3-4 units;
  • For large mills 22-44 mm-it is recommended to set the speed on the indicator 1-2 units.

For hard rocks, it is worth adhering to this rotation speed of the cang cartridge, but for soft rocks the corridor can be expanded by increasing the upper boundary by 1-2 points.

Freze fixation

The cutter is installed with a power cord pulled out of the network. The shank is inserted into the cartridge to a protected mark or until it stops.

In front of the clamp of the cang cartridge, the shaft is blocked (it is worth saying that different machines have different cars, some have a separate lever for others, for others a special key), and only after that is the final clamp of the tsangi so that the milling cutter is firmly fixed.

Adjustment of the depth of milling

The adjustment of the depth of milling in different models of manual milling mills has its own characteristics, in some this function is performed by the adjusting screw, in others this is done using limiters on the bar, third models use the revolving stand. All these devices make it possible to provide the choice of the necessary milling depth for work.

The need for such adjustment is caused by the fact that for milling deep grooves, for example, to install a door lock, to reduce the load on the engine, it is more convenient to make several aisles with a depth of 4-5 mm than to immediately make milling to the full depth of the mechanism.

Processing of wooden details

The first thing to learn is to properly set the depth of milling. To do this, install a zero point. It is impossible to install it firmly, because with each cutting change, it changes. The zero point is the position of the tool when the end of the cutter touches the material and is fixed by a special device called the latch.

It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that each milling cutter has a different position when fixing. To control the depth of immersion of the cutting tool in the body of the material, a stubborn pin with a rough setting scale is used.

When milling the end cutter, the power of counteraction from the cutting force is taken by the milling cutter to the side. To prevent this from happening, you need to use parallel emphasis. The milling process is as follows. Set the cutter along the marking line, fix the position of the stop with a special screw. Put the depth of milling and turn on the machine. If the parallel emphasis is installed on the left side, you need to pull the milling cutter on yourself when on the right side. From yourself.

In order to choose a quarter on the beam, you need to install the cutting edge of the milling cutter along the very edge, fix it, set the depth of the quarter, turn it on and pull it on yourself (if the emphasis on the left edge of the beam). Milling the surface of narrow bars has its own peculiarity. The problem is that on the narrow side of the workpiece the milling cutter is very difficult to keep. If it swings during operation, the groove will turn out to be inaccurate.

To avoid this problem, the bar must be clamped with a clamp, parallel to put exactly the size of the bar. Then the milling machine will acquire two points of the support and will not stagger.

The work with a hand mill can replace the work of a strict machine. To do this, you need several devices for the milling mechanism. It looks as follows: to fix the milling mechanism on two identical sizes and use it as a strict machine, where instead of the shaft, a lamp of a large diameter is installed.

Preparation for work

In the creation of beautiful wooden products, the passage of practical work lessons with a manual milling mill is of great importance. You should start with light models and simple operations. It is more convenient to work with a submersible type tool that has columns directed perpendicular to the sole. The case with the engine and the tool falls on them. It is much easier to regulate the depth of cutting on them and less strength is spent to control the tool.

First you should study how the hand cutting machine operates wood. The engine is installed in the case. The rotating moment is transmitted to the spindle and directly to the instrument fixed to the zango. A hand.On wood mill on the sole rests. In it, opposite the spindle, a window was made through which the tool is lowered into the working area. On the contrary, the cutters are noted. According to them, the operator is guided by manual cutting mode by marking.

Fresis of wood is carried out due to the rotation of the cutter fixed by the cangha in the spindle. The tool is manually conducted through the marking line or used to create a beautiful cutting line templates and special devices.

Masters note the wide possibilities of a milling machine for wood. The main operations performed by him:

  • Drilling holes;
  • Sample of quarters;
  • Milling grooves, slots;
  • The creation of spikes of various shapes;
  • Alignment of lateral surfaces;
  • Fitting seats;
  • Edge profiling;
  • Cutting disks of various sizes;
  • Wood decorative carving.

Craftsmen independently create devices and increase the number of operations performed by a manual milling machine for wood.

Tags: circuit for milling cutters, cutting round holes, wood cutter

I also constantly use a milling cutter in the manufacture of wood in a row of wood, an excellent assistant man, you can do a lot to them

It would be interesting about the experience of using the milling of the milling. Himself in the search for such a device, but the reviews are all different, and diametrically opposite. Professional are terribly dear, and the whole option will not be involved.

In principle, almost all the same.Why use it and how often? Of course, the more powerful and the larger diameter of the shank, the greater the opportunity.If so for the soul is one and for the post. It is better to take work as a pro, but it’s expensive but it’s worth it.

It would be interesting about the experience of using the milling of the milling. Himself in the search for such a device, but the reviews are all different, and diametrically opposite. Professional are terribly dear, and the whole option will not be involved.

We need to decide for what it is needed. For example, I have three different and each is convenient in his own way))

Brothers have been working with such pieces for a very long time (and with stanars when the plant worked) I will share my impressions.It is necessary to select a Fraser for yourself based on your desires. Domestic fraizer, Paul and Prof. Divided by power and design (for different tasks). Freysers have a cutter of cutter 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm. Fraser such as Festol 2000 Wat with the possibility of using a cutter with a tail of 12 mm can be considered a pro. In a set of useful stray to Freyser (except the ruler), the shield is a copying ring with which you can make not only round holes but more complex. It is advisable to use a ring for the manufacture of several identical operations (inconvenience in one; it is necessary to make a template for each operation, all parts are the same). Who massively cuts the loops door ring the best option for the device. For more confused, you can stir up the machine on the principle of a drilling machine with the installation of a copy finger.For stone work, the Sparky Frazer is most convenient with a removable platform and a diamond cutting mill.From the cutting introduction (milling cutter) I prefer Dimar, especially when working with a wood-based stove.The sting holds at 5 (the winth attacks used on mass mills of the wood-based stove cannot withstand. I use them according to an array of wood).

It’s all because of the dollar. Previously, the price was more adequate.

hand, mill, making, nozzle, cutter

Brothers have been working with such pieces for a very long time (and with stanars when the plant worked) I will share my impressions.It is necessary to select a Fraser for yourself based on your desires. Domestic fraizer, Paul and Prof. Divided by power and design (for different tasks). Freysers have a cutter of cutter 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm. Fraser such as Festol 2000 Wat with the possibility of using a cutter with a tail of 12 mm can be considered a pro. In a set of useful stray to Freyser (except the ruler), the shield is a copying ring with which you can make not only round holes but more complex. It is advisable to use a ring for the manufacture of several identical operations (inconvenience in one; it is necessary to make a template for each operation, all parts are the same). Who massively cuts the loops door ring the best option for the device. For more confused, you can stir up the machine on the principle of a drilling machine with the installation of a copy finger.For stone work, the Sparky Frazer is most convenient with a removable platform and a diamond cutting mill.From the cutting introduction (milling cutter) I prefer Dimar, especially when working with a wood-based stove.The sting holds at 5 (the winth attacks used on mass mills of the wood-based stove cannot withstand. I use them according to an array of wood).

Festul can be considered a pro? Yes, this is a professional tool. Which is significantly different from Boshe with Makites, but judging by your post I do not think that you know how they differ except for the price. What kind of stone can this Sparky work?Milling cutters on the wood-brown plate even the most penny. You can 1 Kratonovskaya milling milling milling milling millstle for a whole year, then cut the wood-brown stove then throw it out and take a new one. (By this time, she already or the bearing will end or the knives will heal) than to sharpen the brand Dimar or Festool. There are also SMT worthy mills. Walk almost like Dimar.To make any template is not difficult at all.

I am a fest and I wrote and wrote for beginners what “can be considered”. Bosch and Makita of the present have not seen the guts for a long time all the flimsy engines of the “rank” of the landing under the bearings are plastic and not metal. And do not think that there are no more thoughtful! I disassembled any tool.And what ! I wrote beautifully? They sparked marble in the Moscow workshops of Vuchetich (probably did not hear about this) cutters, then penny rod on the wood-busting plate of the part and the sharpener until you are wiped to the shank.Option of the second woodwood stove fuflo loose. Dimar sharpened himself on a diamond sort of sharpening saw. The cutter without a bearing is cut and that was not enough. (Cut out details according to furniture templates in production- not in a shed).I tell you about what I worked with my own hands, what I did not work, not saying.

For beginners, Fest cannot be considered at all. The beginner will not understand the difference between the Chinese Shushlayka for 5tr and the fest for almost a hundred. Unless the tactile sensations will be different. The difference will be on the face for those who have more than one kilometer passed the milling cutter. The original Boshi can be dragged from the fucking or directly from the offside. I am writing about Sparky because this same sparka died on the first artificial stone countertop. Stupidly written on it 2200W was not enough apparently. Although Makita with an inscription of 2200W cuts it at a time. You either have some kind of reinforced concrete stove or the cutters are strange. We have 2 types of laminated wood-made slab roughly speaking. Tomsk and Eggerovskoye. Egger and loose. Tomsk is several times denser. But the cutters work calmly. Dull after meters so 100-150. But this is an unreal amount per day. Even if a huge one needs to milling a bunch of radius ITP radii, then for these purposes, the clinics are already cutting the sheets. Since saving time will be huge. But even if there is a specially trained Negro only cut radius. He does not ride them manually already. Dimar from SMT feels not different at all. (I use them for artificial stone) The price difference is not particularly large, but SMT is always in stock sharpening at the side. And Dimar is only on order and sharpen them in the city is unrealistic. The only flaw in the SMT mills is that the bearings are half.Dry. But after the purchase, I disassemble the bearing and stuffed with grease for calipers. According to the templates, I will still say that you can make any template in less than 15 minutes. With the help of a copy milling cutter and a jigsaw a strip of acrylic. At the expense of sheds, then I work in a barn make such orders pp.VK.ME/C621824/V621824745/2D06B/VPVIGN-VIDO.Jpg array of ash stone, etc.

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