How to disable the impact mode in a drill
What the drill is for. The purpose of the drill. The difference between a drill and an electric electric screwdriver
The main purpose of a drill is to drill holes in all kinds of materials. An ordinary drill can easily cope with metal, wood, drywall and other not particularly dense surfaces. An impact drill can easily drill through concrete. stone and brick. Special-purpose devices can replace an electric screwdriver and a construction mixer, and with special attachments, a drill can grind surfaces.
An impact drill can replace the drill. because in addition to rotating, it also has an impact force. That’s why you can easily make a hole in concrete with it. On the other hand, if you are going to work mainly with concrete and other dense materials, it is better to take a peorator. it is designed for constant loads of this kind and will last longer. Otherwise there is no difference between the torch and the impact drill. The design of these devices is radically different, so the drill can do many processes that require high power. It’s used for cutting through walls, chipping away at tiles. brick chipping. The main function of a percussion drill is to chisel, whereas for a drill this function is to drill.
The difference between the drill and the electric electric screwdriver is easy to find a person who has little understanding of repair work in general. While a drill drills holes, an electric screwdriver is needed to tighten and unscrew screws and bolts. The chuck rotation speed of an electric electric screwdriver is much lower, and this tool has fewer settings. There are drills with a screwdriver function. it is a versatile tool at home. If you will drill and screw in screws with the same frequency, it is better to take two separate tools, so that the drill did not fail prematurely.
How to choose a drill, their varieties and selection criteria
A drill is a construction tool that is designed to give a rotary motion to a drill or other cutting tool. With the help of a drill make holes in various types of materials during the construction, repair. Also, the drill is applicable in carpentry, finishing, locksmith types of work. Drills are divided into:
In addition, drills may differ in the absence or presence of an impact mode. Compare the drill with a peeler, and the impact drill with a jackhammer. However, there are significant differences between these tools, which can play in favor of the drill or vice versa, when choosing a tool.
Drills are also divided into three main classes:
What is the difference between a professional drill and a household drill
Quality drill can perform not only drilling work, but also a wide range of other types of work and functions. In this regard, it is not easy for a non-professional to stop your choice on one specific model, which are presented by manufacturers in the market.
Drills are divided into two main classes: professional and consumer. Professional drills are intended for regular use. They can be priced many times higher than the latter. But they are also distinguished by a particularly ergonomic design, the presence of a variety of functions and features, a narrower scope of application. These models can withstand a rigorous pace of work for long periods without requiring breaks. As a rule, a professional tool is equipped with overheat protection, better safety system for the device and the user, additional functions for professional use. It is worth noting that the weight of these tools is quite impressive, given the stuffing.
Household tool is ideal for home craftsmen, who may need a drill only a few times a year. The features and price of the models of the household class correspond to each other, and therefore, we can say that the more expensive the household drill, the higher quality it is. Work with such equipment can be no more than 4 hours a day, as household drills have a habit of heating up and getting tired. Also the quality of materials in such devices is much worse than that of their professional counterparts. But, for domestic use, an inexpensive model from a popular manufacturer is more than enough.
The motor in household models is not too powerful, because it is simply not needed. Unlike professional tools, household tools are more susceptible to moisture, dust. But there are still positive aspects, for example:
The versatility of the household drill is undeniable, because this class of devices includes tools that will be applicable in the home for various purposes. All representatives of the discussed class have the reverse function, which can not be seen in the professional branch.
Household drills are constructed of lower quality but lighter materials. The chuck is convenient, and there are soft pads on the chuck. Also, many popular manufacturers, holding the brand, make household tools in an ergonomic design.
Usually, the devices of the household type have a good protection and not too high power characteristics, which greatly facilitates the handling of the tool for inexperienced master.
Professional tools because of its cost, as a rule, does not have a complete set of auxiliary equipment, for a professional full set can cost a pretty penny, and, more often, because of narrow specialization, the master himself buys the necessary elements for his drill. And the household series, as a rule, includes the whole set of bits, drills, chucks, and all this is stored in a branded convenient and compact case.
The warranty period of household drills, as a rule, is not less than 2 years, but the professional tool can count on free service for only a year.
What kinds of specialty drills are available
Even though the drill is considered a universal tool, but additional features are often equipped by manufacturers, giving them specialization. There are a number of specialized drills, which we will talk about next.
An impact drill is designed to work with quite strong materials that a regular drill cannot cope with. In other words, an impact drill is a jackhammer with a drilling function. Although, from a jackhammer is different impact drill that percussion mode in it is still not the main and cope with percussion drill, alas, with the main work of the impact hammer can not always.
But in order to pierce concrete, drill through metal, such a drill is excellent. This type of work is possible because, in addition to the drilling function, the impact drill is equipped with an impact mechanism that performs a powerful push back and forth.
A good thing about impact drills is that you can always switch off the impact mode, and the tool is always ready to do its usual work again. We can say that the impact drill is a set of two tools, independent of each other. It is also worth noting that the impact mode is not disabled in all models.
And if to set aside a jackhammer and compare a hammer drill to a rotary drill? There are also differences, and significant ones. The impact drill has no pneumatic elements, a drunken bearing. And its operating principle is completely different from that of a rotary hammer drill. Inside the body, the impact drill contains several toothed couplings. The application of force on the clutches, contribute to the slippage of the clutches from each other, freeing the axis of rotation. The axis starts to move forward. Bosch impact drill will not stand the piercing of material stronger than brick or concrete, but the impact function is useful in finishing works, construction and repair, both in the professional sphere, and in the domestic sphere.
Electric Electric Screwdriver Drill
A drill with a screwdriving/screwdriving function not only allows drilling, but also working with screws, nails, self-tapping screws. For furniture assembly, this type of drill will be an excellent choice. And in domestic problems, for example, in order to hang a picture frame on the wall, such a drill is quite suitable. However, for more demanding jobs, such as making holes in high-strength materials, the power of an electric electric screwdriver may not be enough.
As a rule, the electric angle drill electric screwdriver is equipped with the following functions:
An angle drill
An angle drill is a fairly young invention. This drill is designed for making holes in hard-to-reach places. And it is possible thanks to the bevel gear, as a result of which the shaft of rotation is perpendicular to the body. Impact angle drills do not happen because of the impossibility of adding impact mode, and the power of such a device is not enough. In this regard, it is sometimes worthwhile to give preference to a special angle nozzle on a regular drill than to buy a similar.
Drill and mixer
Many multi-purpose drills come with a special whisk attachment for mixing mortars. This attachment helps you to mix 10 liters of mortar quickly and efficiently. The mixer drill has special handles on the sides, and the kit comes with several whiskers for mixing. The power of such a drill is not high, but they can work for a long time without the threat of overheating.
There are also more powerful mixer drills with multiple safety systems. Thanks to that, such drills can be equipped with drill bits and large drills. The break clutch is designed to provide greater safety, for example, in the event of jamming, man and machine will remain unharmed.
This type of drill is common in jobs where there is no connection to the electric grid. The convenience of this drill is undeniable: it has no cable, and the presence of a spare battery avoids the situation when the battery depletes during operation.
However, there are disadvantages here as well. The cordless drill uses nickel-cadmium batteries, which do not last as long as we would like. In order for such a battery to live longer, you need to constantly use the drill, even if not necessary, it is recommended to perform an idle start. And the power of this type of drill is much lower than electric drills.
For home use, buying a cordless drill is not recommended, because at home it can lie on the shelf for years. Also, it is worth noting that drills sometimes use lithium-ion and metal-hydride batteries, which are more durable, but nevertheless, such a drill is applicable only in light work with soft materials.
Drill Selection Tips
There is a long list of guidelines to consider when buying a new drill. Many of these can be highlighted from the previously written.
It is important, when choosing a drill, to know what it will be used for. If the applicant wants to find a drill for home use. For example, for minor repairs, then stop at a professional expensive option is not reasonable.
Accordingly, buying a domestic low-power toy for demanding work is also not a very smart idea. Manufacturers produce enough professional options to choose the right working equipment.
Specialized drills are built specifically with certain working conditions that can arise. Popular models with an impact mechanism and drills, screwdrivers. An electric electric screwdriver is the best choice for repair, locksmithing and furniture work. But an impact drill and a mixer are the best for construction.
Drills with a battery are suitable for areas where there is no connection to electricity through a generator or outlet. These drills are handy and compact, but not very good for home use because the batteries are not durable.
The price for the drill, in most cases, depends on this parameter. Drills are available in a wide range of capacities. It is important for the buyer to decide on the power that is ideal for his case. The average power drill is 500-900 watts. For domestic use is the optimum power, unless, of course, you have to mix different solutions and drill large holes. Think about it. If this kind of work is going to be done, it is better not to skimp and take care to buy a more powerful tool. For normal use, buy a drill power of 600 to 700 watts.
The higher the shaft speed, the better the holes the drill makes in the walls. In household models, a high frequency rating indicates that the tool will offer more features for a lower cost. For grinding, polishing, and percussion work, the high value of this feature is a definite advantage. However, high speed is not always good, for example, a drill electric electric screwdriver performs better at low speeds of no more than 500 rpm./min. But there is a but, better yet, buy the tool with the ability to adjust the speed to use a drill in a wider range.
The drill diameter is also an important factor. It indicates what drill bit the drill can work with. This characteristic is usually indicated on the site with the model and in the passport. By the way, the minimum diameter of the holes is 0.6 cm, and the maximum no more than 25 cm.
A chuck in a Makita drill can be a quick-action chuck or a key chuck. A quick-action chuck is particularly suitable for holding the bits manually, but a safety wrench is needed for the keyless chuck. Of course, the keyhole chuck is not very handy, but it has a good grip on the bit. But the quality of the quick-action chuck depends on the manufacturer, and over the years it becomes weaker.
Professional tools are usually equipped with a keyhole chuck, because reliability in the professional world is much more important than comfort. Install it and in drills percussion type due to the fact that the quick-clamp will not cope with the power of such a machine.
The highest value for the cartridge’s seat diameter
This criterion is just as important as the cartridge type itself. The minimum value does not matter, but the maximum value is a totally different matter. Maximum value can be 16, 13, 10 ml. On powerful products is installed chuck with the highest maximum value, the average uses a maximum value of 13 mm, and for light drills, it is 10 mm.
It is important to pay attention and to the shaft speed switch, speed regulator, availability of soft start, start button fixation, build quality. Familiarity with the manufacturers is also helpful. This protects the buyer from buying a Chinese drill that won’t last a year.
Additional handle. helps to distribute the force when working with the tool and reduce vibration, which is especially important when working with heavy material for processing. It can be rigidly attached to the body, be detachable, or rotate around the body.
Battery operation. allows the drill to operate off-line. The undoubted advantage of such tools is their high mobility. That’s why battery operation is especially effective in places where there are no sockets, hard-to-reach places and in work involving frequent relocation of workers.
Cordless drills are recommended for light-duty domestic use because of their low power output. They are not designed for continuous operation. Another disadvantage is the high price of batteries themselves.
Spot lamp. used for working in hard-to-reach places or when there is a lack of light. Integrated in the tool body.
Safety (anti-lock) clutch. protects drill motor from overheating. For example, when the drill bit jams when it hits a rebar. In addition, the safety coupling protects the user against “blowback”, because if the drill stops suddenly, all the power of the drill is transferred to the user’s hands. Most power tools are equipped with it.
Depth drill limiter. helps to make several holes of the same depth. Is a metal or plastic pin secured to the body of the drill. Used for drilling in thin wall (e.g., furniture assembly, etc.).д.) so as not to make a through hole.
Dust collector. collects the dust that is generated during the operation of the drill, especially when drilling concrete, and masonry. However, personal protective equipment against dust (respirators, masks, etc.) must be worn when drilling.д.) will also be useful.
Magnetic holder on the body. allows you to save time when changing the drill during work. Items such as a drill or wrench are fixed on the body, not in the hands or s of the operator.
Case. designed for convenient storage and transportation of your drill and its accessories.
Principle of the percussion drill
Peorator models differ in design features and scope of application. But they have similar features and characteristics. In this article, you’ll find a detailed description of each feature and its impact on the tool’s capabilities.
Repair of impact mechanism drills with their own hands
In detail: repair of the percussion mechanism of the drill with his own hands from the real master for the site olenord.com.
An impact drill is capable of performing conventional drilling only with a hammer. Gearbox of such devices can have one or two speeds. As additional features are reverse stroke and the ability to adjust the desired idle speed.
An impact drill has two helical gears that contact during normal drill operation. When it is necessary to drill with an impact, one pinion moves, thus forming a gap with the gear in front. Then the back pinion stays stationary, and the front one slides over the prongs and moves the chuck up and down. This is how an impact is created in many impact drills. The number of such impacts can be 40,000 per minute.
It is worth noting that the impact function of the drill should be engaged only in the most urgent cases. If the drill is constantly used with a percussion function, then very soon the percussion mechanism can break down. It’s all about the gears, which sooner or later will wear down and the impact mode will disappear.
A tool like the impact drill is an indispensable aid in construction. For example, it can drill through a brick without a problem. As for concrete, the performance of the impact drill depends on the brand of concrete in which you need to drill a hole.
For example, a hammer drill is perfect for 300-grade concrete that is typically used for interior room partition walls. But it can not be said about the 400th grade concrete, which is used in the construction of bearing walls. In this case it is necessary to use an accelerator.
Electric drill is the most popular electric tool in carrying out any repair, so it often fails in view of frequent and intensive use. With basic skills and experience in repairing such tools, it will not be very difficult to repair the drill.
Possible malfunctions of the impact drill
There can be several reasons for failures of this type of tool, there is an opinion that the main reason is the improper operation of the drill, or the same is not “brand” tools, because of what her insides are of low-quality components. Other more technical reasons include:
Failure of the moving part of the motor, the stator or the armature ;
The collector brushes are worn and burned;
A wire break in the cord, in the drill itself, or on the motor reel itself ;
Breakage of the gearbox or the chuck itself.
How to find the fault
To find the reason for the breakage, sometimes it is that it is not immediately visible, for example, the drill just does not rotate. Inspection begins with the power cord, often in view of intensive use of the cord breaks or in the area of the plug or somewhere else. Also look at the button and the different controls. Try to turn the chuck.
This is the end of all diagnostic procedures, the drill must be disassembled to access and inspect it from the inside. For this purpose it is necessary to unscrew (all) screws around the perimeter of the body of the drill and remove the upper half of the body. When unscrewing screws pay attention to their length and remember in which hole screws of what length were, it is easier to leave them at once in the removed part of the case.
Examine the power cable and internal wiring for burns, wire breaks and reliability of the connection. Where the power cord enters the body of the drill, you can often see the outer insulation layer is damaged, it is broken, and the power cord itself is eventually twisted.
If you have a faulty button or reversing switch, it is easier to replace with a new one. Of course you can disassemble and clean the contacts, but to assemble will be a hassle, a lot of small parts and springs, which all tend to jump out.
One of the most common types of failure is wear of the motor brushes, you can easily replace them yourself at home. Sometimes, the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the body of the drill, if the design allows it.
For some models it is enough to unscrew the plugs from the dowel windows and install new brushes. With other models, the replacement requires disassembly of the housing, in which case you must carefully remove the brush holders and extract from them worn brushes.
A characteristic symptom of defective electric brushes is a heavy sparking and unstable operation of the electric motor when it is working irregularly or jerkily. That is caused by irregular electrical contact between the brushes and the plates on the collector.
The brushes should also not be allowed to wear down to their minimum size. This is dangerous because the gap between the brush and the collector plates can become larger. The result is increased spark formation, the collector plates become very hot and may “move away” from the base of the collector, which will necessitate replacing the armature.
The collector plates should be regularly cleaned of carbon deposits and the tension of the brushes against the collector drum should be checked at regular intervals. Other electrical problems can be manifested by a lack of rotation of the drill motor when there is no sign of the motor turning on (no humming noise).
If the drill does not turn on and its chuck is easily turned by a normal effort, you can most likely assume an electrical malfunction.
Checking the specific cause is done as available, check the power cord, speed regulator button, starting capacitor and motor windings, all simply probed with a multimeter in resistance mode.
Electrical faults include breakage of the armature. Armature or stator breakage occurs for two reasons. improper operation and poor quality rewinding wire. Top manufacturers with a worldwide reputation use high-quality wire with double insulation and heat-resistant varnish, which many times increases the reliability of motors and can significantly extend the life of your drill. Cheap models can not withstand continuous and intensive work with overheating.
Armature breakage (coils malfunction) can be diagnosed by a characteristic odor, increased sparking during operation. And on inspection, you can see the burned wire windings. But you can observe the motor power loss, which will be talking about the fact that the windings began to burn up, their resistance has already changed, which can be seen with the tester.
Armature and stator breakdowns can be observed as follows: Interturn electrical breakdown, breakdown to the “body” (magnetic wire) and breakage of the winding. Ground fault can be found using a megohmmeter (multimeter) by probing either end of the winding and the magnetic core. Resistance over 500 megohms indicates no breakdown.
Be aware that measurements should ideally be made with a professional megohmmeter, which has a measuring voltage of at least 100 volts. If you measure with a simple multimeter, you can not say for sure that there is no breakdown, but you can say that there is definitely a breakdown. breakdown can be measured by a simple method, with a light bulb connected to 220 volts, and the second leads to the body and the collector plates.
Armature inter-turn faults are a little more difficult to detect. To do this, you can use a special transformer that has only the primary winding and a trough-shaped break in the magnetic core to install the armature. The armature with its core will become the secondary winding.
Turning the armature, so that the windings would be in operation alternately, apply a thin metal plate to the armature core. If the winding is shorted, the plate will begin to rattle and the winding will become appreciably hot.
Often an inter-turn fault can be seen on routine inspection and the windings may be bent or crumpled. You can try to correct the problem yourself by bending aside the shorted or bent turns of the wire.
To find a broken armature winding you can, if you connect a milliammeter to the adjacent armature plates and slowly turn the armature. Whole windings will exhibit a certain amount of current, a broken winding will show either an increase in current or no current at all.
Use the comparative method to find a faulty winding or make sure that all the windings give the same values on the multimeter.
Breakage of the stator windings determined by connecting an ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the lack of resistance points to a complete breakage. In this case, to make repairs on their own hands, rewinding armature or stator, without special devices is impossible.
When rewinding the windings it is necessary to fulfill the following conditions: the winding is wound in one direction, the beginning of the winding is marked at the coil, the wire is wound clockwise, and then the end of the output is marked. The second winding is wound in the same direction, with the marking of the leads beginning and end.
To replace the rotor or stator, disassemble the housing, disconnect the wires, brushes, remove the drive pinion if necessary, and remove the whole motor with the support bearings. Buy a replacement and reinsert it.
If there is a suspicion of a breakage of the button (turnovers adjuster) it is necessary to be convinced of the voltage presence on the input and output pins of the button. If there is no voltage at the output when you press the button, you must disassemble the body of the button and inspect all the pins.
As a rule, burning or sticking of the contacts is detected visually. All pins must be thoroughly wiped with alcohol and sanded with emery cloth. Then check the voltage again. Button repair with your own hands is possible only if you have certain skills.
It is important to realize that after opening the case, many of the switching parts just fall out of the case. This can only be prevented by lifting the cover smoothly and carefully initially.
When replacing the button with a new one, it is necessary to make sure that the new button is designed for the power of the particular drill. So, for example, for a 750 watt drill, the regulator must be at least 3.4 amps.
Wiring diagram for the impact drill button:
The reversing button is checked in the same way consistently. The reverse mechanism is based on a system of make-and-break contacts. It is treated in the same way as the starter button.
Wiring Diagram for the Impact Drill RPM and Reverse Button:
The reason of “not working” of the electric motor can become a failure of the starting capacitor. Usually a capacitor’s malfunction can be noticed by a color change. But it is more reliable to measure its capacitance and compare it with the rating.
Repairing the Mechanics of the Drill
In the mechanical part of the impact drill, there can also be different malfunctions, for example, jamming of the drill shaft. If the chuck can no longer be turned by hand and the motor noises when powered on, then the gearbox or bearings are likely to be at fault. One of the most common causes of faults is the destruction of the bearings.
Gearbox breakage can also occur if the chuck is rotated by hand and the motor is running, but the rotation is not transmitted to the main shaft. All faults in the mechanical part can cause intermittent stoppages and failures during operation, a buzzing, grinding noise and insufficient shaft rotation speed.
The principle of the impact drill is based on the forward movement of two ratchets, which are repelled from each other during the rotation of the spindle motor. During impact drilling, the motor drives the spindle.
The motor spindle transmits the rotary motion to the large cogwheel of the gearbox with a ratchet attached firmly to it.
The undulating surface of the ratchet of the big gear slides on the undulating surface of the second ratchet, which is rigidly fixed in the gear housing, thus causing a shock action.
Over time, in the course of long and intensive use of the drill in the impact drilling mode, the corrugated surfaces of the ratchets wear out, the impact becomes weaker and weaker or does not occur at all. Inspect worn gear parts and replace with new ones if necessary.
If the chuck jams or an audible grinding noise is heard, first of all, you must disassemble the drill housing and inspect the condition of the gears in the gearbox. Worn splines or broken gear teeth indicate the failure of a part. The pinion should be replaced.
Visually inspect the pinions around the full circumference by turning the shafts by hand Bearings. are. checked. by. turning. the. shaft. in. the. bearings. If the shaft is stiff, start with greasing the bearings. If this does not help, they can be removed from the shaft with a special puller.
Turn the bearing cage by hand. If the movement is difficult or strange noises can be heard, the bearing must be replaced. A bearing not replaced in time will cause the armature to seize or, at best, the bearing will turn in the housings.
To get to bearings of your drill, you need to take off all the motor and gearbox, taking out brushes first so they won’t break and won’t pop out.
Before you take out the insides of the drill, carefully examine what was there, where it was, so that when assembling, as it often happens with “experienced” masters are not left a bunch of unnecessary items, the use of which is hard to find. Do not lose the ball, which is located at the end of the shaft of the drill chuck, it is responsible for the drilling mode with and without impact.
If necessary and severe wear of the drill chuck, you should unscrew the fixing screw, which is located inside the chuck. After that, unscrew the left-hand threaded chuck and remove it from the shaft. Replace the chuck with a new one.
Often the drill breaks down during serious work, during the undertaken repair or in other circumstances, so that you do not waste time in vain, and that it was not for you a problem, you should remember how to make repairs to the drill itself. You should know the construction of the drill used and quickly and easily determine the cause of the malfunction and fix it.
The power drill has a special place in the home workshop. Therefore, the breakdown of the tool is quite a big trouble. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to make an independent repair.
All those who are just starting their first steps in learning the basics of repair usually gain experience with simple jobs, like hammering a nail, screwing a screw, preparing wallpaper paste, drilling a hole in the wall, etc. п. Of course, many jobs can be done manually, doing without power tools. But when doing repairs, you need to remember about convenience and the time spent. You can, for example, a couple of screws tighten by hand with a screwdriver and hang a shelf. Another thing is if you need to fix a sheet of drywall the size of half a room to the rails, where you need to screw in half a hundred self-tapping screws. Here, perhaps, you can’t screw around with your hands, you’ll get tired very quickly! And here, that’s where you begin to wonder how it would be faster but with less effort to do.
Here you can say, why are we talking about impact drill?? After all, you can use an ordinary drill with an attachment to screw in self-tapping screws, and even easier. Take an electric electric screwdriver. That’s right. But for beginners in the repair to buy a few expensive power tools at once can be expensive. In this article I want to show how one tool can be turned into several and get along just fine at first.
The impact drill is so successful for series production that it could be called a standard. However, there are still many people who have been using the rarely broken traditional drills for ages that have not yet had time to figure out the “novelty”. Other customers ask whether an impact drill can replace a rotary drum?
It is important to note at once that modern drills with an impact function will almost always replace a conventional. Accordingly, such a tool with equal characteristics (power, impact frequency, rotational speed, etc.) can be used as a substitute for an ordinary drill. д.) can do the job where a hammerless drill works.
If you live in a brick house, you can easily hang a painting or install the anchor bolts for the boiler. There may be some difficulty with reinforced concrete structures or solid stone walls. Here you need to try, often you can drill a hole, which is impossible with a traditional hammerless drill.
The difference between the drill and the accelerator
The main difference. Impact mechanism system
The most essential difference between the rotary tool and the impact drill is the way the impact system works. In a drill, for example, two ratchet gears are used to form the impact. The tool chuck is rigidly connected to the first one and its housing to the second one. When the percussion mechanism is not needed, a stopper is inserted between the ratchets, and they have no contact. When you activate the hammer function, the latch is released and the gear transforms the rotary motion of the chuck into a translational-return motion.
It’s not the same with a peorator. The hammer mechanism can be either electro-mechanical or electro-pneumatic. The first type is most often used. In this case there are two coils which, by electromagnetic interaction, cause a forward and backward movement of the core. Then the energy is transferred directly to the working part of the rotor.
The pneumatic mechanism can be of two types. Equipped with a crank drive or a system with a so-called “drunken” rolling bearing. In the latter, the rotating rotor drives a piston that transmits the percussive energy to the workpiece.
Functionality is important
The rotary drill is considerably ahead of the drill, because it has as many as three operating modes. That’s rotation, impact with rotation, and just impact. Accordingly, it is not only possible to drill through a wall with an electric torch, but also to punch through it. Dig a big hole, make a groove for cables, chisel away a piece of wall. all this is possible with such a powerful tool as the impactor. But a drill with an impact mechanism has only two modes, standard and impact drilling. And the force of this blow is not as powerful as that of the peorator.
What are the main features
For electric drills, the main characteristic is the torque, or turning torque. The unit for measuring it. Newton meter. Peorators, on the other hand, are classified in a different way. For them the main thing is the power, which depends on the impact energy. It is measured in joules. And the torque of the torque drill does not have to be very high, often much lower than an impact drill with a similar motor.
The leader in performance
And that’s where the peorator takes the lead again. After all, its impact energy is undoubtedly greater than that of an impact drill. It is therefore much more comfortable to work with and does not have to be pressed as hard as an impact drill. Working with the latter, it’s extremely difficult to penetrate a hole without considerable pressure.
The main application
For the drill, the main area of application is drilling work in metal, tile, and wooden surfaces. Well, the peorator is designed to overcome concrete and brick walls. Therefore, both in terms of hours or minutes spent, and in terms of quality, it is difficult to compare the result of work performed by one and the other tool. For for a drill, the function of the blow is only additional. As well as the drilling functions of the peorator. You should not neglect the instructions by using the tool at full throttle where only short-term operation is permissible. Sadly, it will end up breaking a good thing.
What is the difference between an impact drill and a drill. What is the difference between a drill and a torch?
1) Impact drill
The dumb question arises: “Why are we talking about an impact drill and not an ordinary drill??”. The answer is simple. In today’s market, regular models have long been considered antique and are practically never produced. The impact models, on the contrary, are put in large-scale production. Their technology has improved the capabilities of the conventional model. So, despite the fact that the drill. it is for any domestic master “tool for every day”, now when you buy a regular drill you will spend a lot of money and will be significantly limited in capacity. Consider the functions of an impact drill:
Having a peorator in a repair job will add to the capabilities listed above
What is the difference between a peorator and an impact drill??
The principle of the drill is two toothed ratchets. When you work by pushing on the material to be worked, you make it “jump around in the teeth”. The disadvantage of the method is a small amplitude, the need to apply a lot of force and a high degree of recoil. ratchets wear out with constant use, so you have to replace them with new ones.
The drill has none of these disadvantages, because of the fundamentally different internal construction. This device is more durable and powerful, especially in holes in hard surfaces. Much faster, but less recoil than an impact drill.
In the store “220 Volt” you can buy a peorator or drill, depending on your goals and objectives. However, consider the following when comparing the peorator to a drill:
Peorator is more expensive than a drill of a similar level
Peorator drill bits are subject to higher requirements, hence the price is more expensive than usual
Specialized drills for peorator are under heavy loads, so they have a special design of fastening in the chuck. The consequence. it is impossible to use an ordinary drill without an adapter
Using an adapter for a regular drill bit makes regular drilling difficult, if not impossible.
Impact Driver Service & Lubrication Guide
So when choosing power tools you need to know the specifics of future repairs.