How to disassemble and assemble a sturm 2591 perforator

How to disassemble and reassemble the Sturm 2591

In the case of a tool breakage, which helps in construction, not everyone wants to go to a workshop, for lack of money, time, or because the repair can cost a new thing. Some people prefer to do everything themselves. If at the most important moment the tool stopped working, in order to identify the cause and eliminate it, the tool should be disassembled.

Review: Peorator Sturm RH2518. Chisels walls and concrete, drills holes. Guess who it is.

Today my review is dedicated to repair equipment, or rather tell you about the acquisition and my experience with the rotary cutter “Sturm RH2518″.

Every time we resort to repair, it is obligatory to buy one or the other. I had the task to remove all the old foundation. But the tool for this activity was not, I called my friends, no one had such a powerful machine that he could cope with my volume of work.What can I do, I went to the store. There I was offered three models to choose from out of the whole pile. With my budget was enough only for “Sturm“. For its price, the 2518 was the most powerful of its competitors with the same price tag. expensive did not take even because in the future I do not plan a large amount of work, and this unit is enough “by the eye”.

Well, in the meantime I will tell you about my purchase. should I buy it or not and how it has proved itself in work. I’ll try to answer these and other questions in detail.

The torch is sold, stored and transported in a solid plastic case.A strong suitcase with some kind of patterns in the center that had “Sturm” written on it.

To keep the tool under “lock”, there are latches on top of the case and a hinged handle for easy transportation.

They are slightly recessed inside, so they do not get in the way.

At the bottom of the case there are feet, so that it stands stably on the surface. In standing position the case takes less storage space.

The cover of the instruction manual is colorful it’s already fun to pick up. Medium print font, the letters are clearly visible.

Inside the manual the images are black and white but the print is still as good. That will not be a problem for a visually impaired person.

In any owner’s manual, the main part contains an introduction, assembly if required, getting started, tool description, safety precautions, troubleshooting. Apparently the manufacturer considered it necessary to supplement the exploded instructions with the description of its parts. I agree, it’s convenient when replacing a broken down component, no need to look on the Internet. Just open the manual page, find the part you need and look at the name of the part. There is one “but” before you disassemble and troubleshooting, you need to know the tool, otherwise ignorance will lead to dire consequences.

As it should be with any purchased item comes with a receipt, warranty card. The coupon should be filled out, check the tool and only then sign it, making sure the serviceability and integrity of the purchase.The warranty period is specified in the warranty card. 14 months, which is not bad.

Open the case (suitcase), there, respectively, lies the tool and the set is supplemented by three drills for concrete, wrench, nozzles “spade” and “shovel.

Inside the case there are special recesses for the torch and its accessories.

I found an interesting rubber band, after reading the instructions I found out that it is needed when you drill a hole in the ceiling, the remains of plaster does not fall on the head and eyes.

The key for unscrewing the cap on top of the tool body. In this review, I will show it to you and tell you what unscrewing.

Two nozzles for removing tiles. Is a spatula, and a spade to break hard surfaces like concrete.

Three concrete drills. The most popular in the household, I think there is no need to buy more. The quality is unknown, I used it a few times.

In this review we will look at the RH2518 with the vertical motor. The model is printed on the right side of the body.

On the other side of the peorator specifications, manufacturer, date of manufacture, serial number.

When choosing pay more attention to the impact force, the power does not play a special role. The greater the impact force, the faster it will do the job. I worked with a peorator that has 5J joules of impact force, compared to this 7J joules. I’ll tell you, the difference is noticeable.

What it is? This is the main body in which the motor and gears are located. Powerful chuck with a SDS Plus quick fastener.

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A large handle with a trigger is attached to the main body and a small auxiliary handle is attached to the chuck.

The body of the tool is covered with strong plastic, which in principle should withstand a fall or impact. Of course, the thickness of a few millimeters, but to feel as if it was about a centimeter.The weight of the peorator is 5.9 kilograms is not a drill, but a real man’s tool.

The fan “cooling system” is at the bottom of the tool. These are oblong holes. Also this cover is removable and you can see the screw heads along the edges.

The side walls on both sides also have ventilation holes through which the fan wheel can be seen. The conclusion is that the tool is serious and needs a good air cooling to avoid overheating in hot weather.

The power button is conveniently located. The hand holds the handle and the fingers squeeze the trigger. This model does not have a trigger lock. I am personally more comfortable without it than with it.

Before you start, choose a mode out of the three presented.Drilling, tapping, or rotating the bit.I think everybody can cope with it, modes are conditionally shown in the pictures. Each mode is described in detail in the operator’s manual.

Opposite to the power button there is another switch, which must be switched to the same mode as the first switch. That is, if you put a chisel and this checkbox is set to the same function.

Powerful SDS Plus quick-action chuck, it is not necessary to unscrew and tighten after the drill bit is inserted. Release the safety catch, insert the drill or chisel head, release. Correctly set nozzle should not fall out of the chuck.

the chuck hole is standard, it does not increase and does not decrease as in a drill. That is why only special accessories are available, with special notches in the junction.Chuck is the most dirty place, grease residues attract all dust, so after each use the tool will have to service.

disassemble, assemble, sturm, 2591, perforator

You probably noticed the color of the housing? Some parts are turquoise and some are black, very original. I would say not bad, I personally like it.And I wanted to give you here the cap, which has four holes. Here’s the key I told you a little bit about above, it’s from here.

Cover with screwed connection. Now I will tell you what I need it for on the torch. I’m sure not everyone knows. To tell the truth, I did not know what it was for until the seller explained it to me.Underneath that is the grease for the gears. I add it from time to time, depends on how often I use it.

The auxiliary handle is mounted on the metal part of the cartridge, or rather on its continuation or beginning, depending on how you look at it.It’s quick to put on and off, in no time at all.Material of the handle is plastic, the clamping plate is metal. There are rubber inserts labeled “Sturm“, probably to prevent slipping of the hand during operation.

The output of the power cord is protected from unnecessary bends, time will tell how effective it is.

The plug is firm but not as rubbery as it appears at first sight. The component is not clear, it does not feel like plastic, like kapron or something.

I wanted to thank the manufacturer for not being stingy with the length of the wire. The cover seems to be rubber, bends well in the face of minus, does not crack. By the way it is not as thick as on bolsters, but as thick as on welders.After one unsuccessful purchase of this manufacturer I am most concerned about the quality of the cord, I always check it now.

After buying, when I got home I could not resist and ran quickly to test the novelty.In the first minutes I noticed at once how it smashed the concrete as compared to its analogue with 5J joules.It would seem that the difference is less than half, but how it solves. In general, the case went uphill, the old concrete broke in a day, compared to the other peorator, two days chiseled.Hold in the hands of a heavy “mega” but you get used to over time. While working, ears and cheeks shake, and most importantly the useful factor from the tool is.

Of course, I will not praise the tool, there are pros and cons everywhere. I like it and I am satisfied with the results. Frankly, I did not expect that it will be so effective chisel.What can be highlighted from all of this. This is a budget option, purely for home use. With proper use, it will last a long time. I will not get ahead of course, there are exceptions. Any technique can break before serving its allotted time, the manufacturer’s fault, somewhere not assured or low-quality parts. I do not wish anyone to deal with it, let your machine faithfully serve as long as possible.

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Get to the point, as you have understood, I was satisfied with the brand “Sturm” peorator. It does its job well. External inspection showed that it is made without any visible signs of culling, there are no irregularities in the casting of the body and perpetually torn wires, suspicious noises in the gears.

In a few words: “I did not see anything that would change the rating”.

Review: The Sturm RH2565. This is not the way a peorator should be

I’m redecorating in the bathroom and decided to use this machine to remove the old tiles, and as a mixer. I did not want to dirty good peorators and I wanted to try to work with this one as well. I have already written about existing good Horizontal Makita 2470 and Bosch 2-24, but tried this peorator decided to write a review about what should not be a good peorator. Having taken in hands I have felt the decent weight, which is far superior to my other peoratoras. Beginning to inspect the 2 mode switches. One at the top and one in front of the knob.

The power button on this torch is beyond praiseworthy. It is stiff, small in size (without the glove, it is not convenient to press with one finger even when wearing the glove) and with a small stroke. Good RPM adjustment by pressing, t. е. it is not possible to regulate by pushing in this peorator. And the lever lock for the button is not a necessary thing according to our Asian neighbors. For example, if you are drilling with a long auger, milling or using the machine as a mixer, you have to keep the button pressed, and considering the weight of the machine. It is practically impossible to work with it for a long time.

The separate attention should be paid to dimensions and weight. The peorator is more or less easy to work horizontally, it is not convenient to work at an angle or vertically. But never mind, the torch is taken for work, and the convenience of the operator is not always present, the power is something to be sacrificed. I thought before I started working with it, in my opinion it was slower than a usual horizontal mill.

Looked at its characteristics and saw the following. claimed 650 watts, 3,150 strokes per minute and 800 rpm, and the impact force is 3.4 J. Т. е. Basically everything is fine except the engine power. It just won’t last long enough and it will heat up a lot. In the end, as I thought it lasts for 20-30 minutes of continuous work with light loads (to remove the floor tiles), warms up very strongly azh scares for him it becomes. And the grease in 10 minutes of work, of which 2 it spins idly and should cool on the drill saw abundant traces of grease. everything started to leak out of the chuck. In general, with 3.5 squares of tile it took him an hour and a half with 3 breaks.

Somebody can argue. Well, it is like a household peorator, for him these loads are also strong, but then there is a question. why make a vertical drill heavy and inconvenient for drilling walls for plugs? For other works, this torch is not suitable. Wide chuck. is also incomprehensible to me. As if they were going to make the SDS-MAX, but then realized that it would die the first day of work and gave up the idea. The control nail in the lid of this tool is the lack of reverse.

Accordingly, no adequate person would drill with it with long drills, use it for drilling in other materials. It turns out the manufacturer hints at chiseling, but does not make it convenient to do the job. From the pluses I see only quick access to the brushes and the price. bought it in the neighborhood of 3.5 thousand. Everything else. Dimensions, weight, ergonomics, button, cord (short and thin), power, lack of reverse, power and life is a fat minus. I read reviews on the Internet. People praise write work in the production of 3 years. everything else is cool, killed. It doesn’t break down.

I once worked 7 years ago at a nuclear power plant construction site. And we had Bosch and Hilti SDS-Max torches made in Germany, and it was the Hilti that everyone loved and respected, not the ones that are made now and invented like good tools. Dak two peoratorov worked about 15-20 hours a day, seven days a week. Brushes should be changed at least every two months. And they had burned engines, broken buttons and switches and wires, t. к. They’ve been working hard and can’t be seen to be gentle. And 3 years after I bought them, all they had was the body.

And the reviews on the production, look like that does not matter. production of what. Can this peorator be used? Reviews like many years this peorator has been with builders and has been hard used and only the button and brushes were changed. Also nonsense. What kind of normal builder will work. With this tool, which is difficult to call a tool. Even if beginners builders, for a start would be better to buy some Interskol or Fiolent for the same money, much easier, more convenient and functional. And the service is less. In general, the choice is yours, but I do not use this for free and will not.

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Diagnosing the peorator

Take a multimeter, put it on a continuity test and start checking with the power cord.

  • Connect one probe to the end of the plug, the other to the pins on the other end of the wire. There should be a beep when one of the pins is connected. Repeat this procedure for the other end of the fork.
  • Check the trigger on the power cord and stator terminals. Pull the trigger of the button.
  • Check reversing contacts.
  • Connect probes to brushes to check for contact through armature.
  • Connect probes to stator wires and test them.
  • If the stator or brushes are faulty, but the buttons and mains cord are functional, proceed to diagnose the collector and motor windings.

Diagnose wires and buttons with a multimeter

For the armature, first inspect the collector and winding. If the wiring is melted, burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a peculiar odor. You may see bent or crumpled coils or conductive particles such as solder residue. These particles are the cause of the short circuit between the coils. Collector damage: raised, worn or burned plates.

Set resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the feelers of the device to two adjacent plates of the collector. If the resistance is the same between all neighbouring plates, then the winding is ok. If the resistance is less than 1 Ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the coils. If the resistance is two or more times higher than the average, a winding breakage is present. Sometimes when an open circuit occurs, the resistance is so high that the gauge goes off the scale. On an analog multimeter the arrow will go all the way to the right. And the digital one won’t show anything;

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Ground fault detection. Set the maximum resistance on the scale. Depending on the tester it can be from 2 megohms to 200 megohms. Connect one probe to the shaft and the other to each plate in turn. If there is no fault, the resistance should be zero;

Do the same with the rotor. Connect one probe to the iron case of the rotor and move the other probe across the plates.

Anchor can be salvaged if it is not out of balance. If during the operation of the device is heard intermittent hum and there is a strong vibration, it is a violation of the balance. Such an armature must be replaced. The winding and the collector can be repaired. Short-circuits can be repaired. If a substantial portion of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn out and badly damaged lamellae should be turned through, rebuilt or soldered. In addition, do not attempt an armature repair if you are unsure of your own capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to a repair shop.

disassemble, assemble, sturm, 2591, perforator

Daily care and storage

To ensure that the tool serves the craftsman properly for many years, it is recommended when operating it:

  • Start the appliance “idle” before you start work. If the appliance is showing signs of breakage. stop working and start diagnostics.
  • Having completed the work, take care of the cleanliness of the motor. it is important to remember that electric motors “do not like” water, cleaning is done with a vacuum cleaner and a rag.
  • If the peorator is running in the cold or moved indoors from the street, do not start it immediately. Allow the assemblies to “warm up” and the grease to thaw.
  • it is necessary to carry the torch in a box or carrying case (usually included in the set), to avoid dust and construction debris.

Thus, if objective precautions and rules of operation are observed, the torch will last a long time without breakdowns. If the malfunction has nevertheless occurred. the offered tips of masters will help to determine the essence of the problem and to remove the failure in due time.

When drilling holes with the rotary tool, the main factor is not the rotation of the drill, but the impact. Both drilling speed and the ability of the tool to cope with particularly hard building materials (concrete, granite, etc.) depend on its power.

Dust and constant strain on the tool impair its operation. During operation the impact force can decrease noticeably or disappear at all.

How the torch works and why it “refuses” to chisel?

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