How to fix the clutch lever on a power tiller
How to fix the clutch lever on the tiller
For over 50 years now, Italy has been producing high-quality multifunctional tillers for farmers developed by three Italian brothers, BENASSI (Benassi). In Ukraine, this technique appeared in 1998 and since then has taken a leading position on its capabilities and reliability.
We tried very hard to make and unbiased reports. However, we love Benassi equipment so much that we just can not afford not to admire and be proud of it! We hope that the reader will forgive us our lyrical digressions.
Test-drive of power tillers was conducted by the Technical Center “Gardening Equipment”.
Specifications: Motoblocs Benassi brothers have durable engines, strong gearbox and gearbox (31 speeds), 8-cylinder cutter with 32 cm diameter and up to 120 cm working width, 2 PTO shafts, disc clutch, 6-sided cutter shafts and weight of 85-120 kg depending on the engine. Engines are installed both gasoline and diesel, but necessarily professional. In general, these models are similar by design, quality and reliability before 2007 were not inferior to each other. These models differ only in some parameters, which indicate the ability to carry the load. For example, a 6-sided shaft mill in the model RL-328 is 22 mm (key size), and the HEPARD-4 (model BL-120). 27 mm. Since 2007 Meccanica Benassi models are assembled with Chinese parts and assemblies, which allowed reducing their cost. The models under the BENASSI brand are still entirely made in Western Europe. When we test the Meccanica Benassi models we see that their capabilities are limited. That’s why we don’t demand anything special from them. Our task is to find the flavor that would appeal to a future owner of an inexpensive model. For example, a single-axle HOPE tractor has an electric motor, which is convenient in greenhouses and hothouses, KROT. 2-stroke engine, which is convenient when working on slopes, SOLO-502. Lightweight power tiller for gardeners who can effectively pull weeds and work the topsoil. The Benassi power tillers cannot be called cheap, that is why we are more picky with them. Let’s start with the RL-328L with a 6.8 hp Lombardini diesel engine.
RL-328 single axle tractor, as well as GEPARD-4 (BL-120 model) belongs to the family of multifunctional power tillers designed for continuous operation in any, even the most unfavorable conditions. We found the confirmation in the Italian Lombardini diesel engine, the famous manufacturer of high-class professional engines, and in the fully cogged transmission. Neither belts nor chains so typical for amateur machines are absent here. Engine power is transmitted via a disk clutch (the most reliable design known) and a gearbox to a bevel gear reduction unit.
As for the gearbox, we had the opportunity to look at it not only from the outside, but also inside, while in the factory in Italy. The Italian manufacturer is proud of its boxes, emphasizing their relative simplicity and originality of design (the boxes are patented). Indeed the kinematic scheme is unusual and contains the know-how.
The robust gearbox is impressive and its mere sight alone makes it convincing that it can withstand much higher loads than a chain or worm gearbox. In general it is so, because abroad serious motor-blocks are made exactly with toothed gears (externally such reducers differ from flat chain and worm ones by their spherical shape). Reliable protection against dirt and dust entering the gearbox (gaskets, felt rings, covers).
Further we draw attention to the powerful air filter of the Lombardini diesel engine. The air is cleaned not only in the filter elements but also by running it through the oil. The good thing. the filter does not require changing, because it is reusable: wash the element, change oil and go on working. Pleasant and significant savings in the process of operation (replacement elements of dry filters cost from 5 to 15 dollars).
As expected, all cutter blades are forged, heavy-duty, self-sharpening. And the 6-sided cutter shaft is a very powerful trump card compared to the round shafts installed in amateur series power tillers. Those who have already had time to work with amateur power tillers, probably faced with the problem of fixing the cutter bar and wheels. During work, bolt-lockers bend, crush, or even cut them off. It is a big problem to take a mill with a crumpled fixation bolt off a shaft. In the Italian multifunctional power tillers brothers Benassi this problem simply does not exist, because here the cutter is fixed from the rotation of not bolts, and facets of the shaft.
We were pleased with the steering wheel. We had to deal with power tillers such as Neva-2 with Russian engine which after 2-3 hours of work make our palms so hurt that they hurt after 2-3 days (we are by no means cursing Neva by no means, t.к. “The Neva” has another trump card. the low price, and it would be immoral to demand from it any serious design solutions). In the Italian RL-328 and GEPARDE-4 this drawback is eliminated. The vibrations, even with the diesel engine, do not “tear you up” and you can work for a long time very comfortably.
We would like to speak separately about the emergency engine stop lever. It is located on top of the left handle and in case of danger it is enough to remove your hand from the handle to make the engine stop. That’s very handy and very effective for protecting the operator. If we had our way, we would oblige plants to produce all motor blocks and power tillers, both amateur and professional, with such safety levers, but not with tumblers and, God forbid, with buttons (I don’t understand how “button lovers” manage to get manufacturing permissions).
In a word, Italian motor blocks by Benassi have a number of serious design advantages in comparison with single-speed power tillers and power tillers.
The declared price of multifunctional “Italian” is 2-4 times higher than the price of amateur equipment. Since we are also engaged in sale of spare parts for power tillers and know their costs in factories, we decided to compare the cost of separate units and parts. We got the following picture. At an amateur motoblock (motocultivator), the force from the engine to the gearbox is transmitted by a belt costing 3-10 dollars. At GEPARD-4 this role is performed by a 4-speed gearbox, which draws not one hundred dollars. The role of clutch in an amateur power tiller is a plastic roller ( 3-4), and in the GEPARD-4. disks ( 75-150). Chain in the gearbox amateur motoblock, which transmits the rotation to the working shaft is 12-15, and performing the same role toothed bevel gear GEPARD-4. 120 dollars. I don’t know about you, but our impression is that both the purchase and retail price of amateur power tillers is obviously overstated. There is another indicator of the cost of motor equipment. the cost per motor hour. According to our calculations, the average cost per hour of an amateur power tiller or power tiller is 2-3 or more. Multifunctional equipment with “long-life” engines and high-quality implements costs about 0.4 per hour and less (we didn’t take fuel costs into account in our calculations). So if you buy a multipurpose machine you have to pay 3-4 times more at first but in the end it will cost you several times less. However, you do not have to pay the full amount at once, because in Ukraine have already begun to work credit mechanisms. A buyer’s note: If you take the technique for commercial purposes, then do not count on the amateur. Engines of such technique are often without cylinders, they do not have liners, their lubrication is simplified, they are not designed for continuous operation, service life is 5-10 times less, repairs are possible but economically inexpedient (it is better to buy a new one than to repair the old one). Their gearboxes can not withstand neither plowing nor digging, and there is nothing to talk about assembling a trailer.
For this “drive” in the gardens of Kiev and Chernigov regions.
The first thing we do is install the cutter. For deep, on a bayonet shovel, complete the soil 6-dish milling, 3 plates on each side of the gearbox. To start the engine, you need on the left handle to press 2 levers and lock in a certain sequence (a special protection against unauthorized starting children, strangers and others). Only after this you can start the engine. The engine is diesel, but started easily (this is what a good decompressor means!).
Engage 2nd speed with the gear lever and release the clutch lever. We did not feel the jerk, as it is observed with many power tillers with belt drive (it is at this point that amateur power tillers crumple and cut fingers-fixators of cutters and wheels). The clutch quickly but smoothly connects the engine to the tiller gearbox. The tiller starts to work, gently digging into the soil. Exactly, smoothly. There’s no other word for it. the single-axle tractor went forward smoothly and steadily. The weight of the tractor is enough to keep it from jumping out of the ground or pushing it forward (the usual thing when you are dealing with lightweight tractors). We only need to rock it gently from side to side to make the gearbox of the power tiller “slide” to the side and press or release the coulter to change the working depth. We had no complaints about the ripping quality. What’s more, we would take the tiller’s work as a reference when testing other models of power tillers and power tillers.
Change the tiller for the wheels and hitch it to the rear of the machine. Hitch up the plow and the plow’s support wheel. After a short adjustment of the plow we get down to plowing.
Plowing a heavy power tiller on a lower gear (that’s where you need a gearbox!). sheer pleasure. Without lower back pain and soap on your neck. It doesn’t want to run to the side, you don’t have to push it. Holding it lightly with one hand, you can walk side by side, and not even in a furrow! It doesn’t get as tired, and you can plow a decent size vegetable garden in a day.
If the plough is well adjusted and gets accustomed to the power tiller, it is even easier to follow it than simply walking across the field: the operator rests his hands on the power tiller handles, relieving some of his body weight, while the single-axis tractor pulls slightly forwards. Easy and comfortable!
There is an opinion that the plow is a simple thing. This is a deeply mistaken opinion. Look at these plows. Each has its own share and mouldboard geometry and each handles the soil differently. With the right plow for your soil, you’ll enjoy plowing. With a bad plow you’ll have to push both the plow and the single axle tractor.
We also tried to work with a reversible plow. Many buyers ask for it, often confused with the 2-hull plow, swivel, key or reversible. The photo shows exactly the reversible plow. Its peculiarity is that it has right- and left-handed bodies, and the advantage is that you can plow without piling ridges and furrows, no idle runs of motor-block from end to end. This is achieved by turning the plow 180 degrees (the upper body becomes the lower body and the lower body becomes the upper body). The operator turns the plow at the end of the race when turning the tractor to move in the opposite direction.
Whichever way a single-axle tractor plows with a reversible plow, the layer of soil will always fall off in the same direction. Very handy for work. Despite the fact that such a plow is more expensive than a conventional plow, many overseas farmers prefer the reversible plow.
To make it easier to turn at the edge of the vegetable garden, foreign farmers use differential half axles that allow one of the wheels to turn freely in relation to the other. It’s very convenient! In Ukraine about such half-axles, as well as about active rotors, neither dachnikov, nor farmers have not heard (about active rotors read a separate article in this section of our website). That is why we started importing them into Ukraine. At the same Techcenter Horticultural Machinery established the production of differential hubs and differential semi-axes for HEPARD, SALUT, and even to amateur power tillers.
For fine crumbling of the topsoil and levelling of the garden surface, the tiller has 4 plates on each side of the gearbox. The total reach of the tiller is 120 cm. Perform this operation in 2nd or, better, 3rd gear. Here the single-axle tractor, like a zealous horse, tends forward and pulls the operator after him. It’s really a pleasure to follow the tiller: you don’t even have to strain yourself, just have time to move your feet. With this performance, 30 acres of vegetable garden can be covered in 15 minutes.
This is how to make seedbeds: fast and efficient. It’s probably the best you could do.
We would like to speak separately about power of this tractor. We are used to dealing with 6 hp Neva and Salut. These are powerful motor blocks that pull anything you don’t hitch them to. One owner of a SALUT described the power of his power tiller in the following way: “It has enough guts”. The RL-328 single axle tractor has 6.8 L of power.с. This is quite comparable to the Neva power tiller, the passport of which shows 6.2 (8) liters of power.с. That’s how it is written: 6,2 (8) l.с. You understand it as you know. But in practice we suddenly encountered a striking difference. Even at a low throttle, the Lombardini engine pulls much harder than the NEVA engine at full throttle. At low rpm RL-328 confidently digs the ground to any depth. The difference in power is so palpable by hand, that no bench test is needed here to understand: we are dealing with completely different engines. Of course, we understand that from the engineering point of view it is incorrect to compare the petrol engine of NVA with a diesel Lombardini. But horsepower. has horsepower. Why not compare them? As for the disadvantages of the power tiller. During the test-drive we try to identify both positive and negative sides of the machine, so that the future buyer can assess whether the positive aspects are useful to him, and whether he will be “bothered” by the negative ones. Here we have not found negative sides yet. The car is too good. And it is not surprising: a single axle tractor is made by Arrigo Benassi, a highly qualified Italian specialist, one of the acknowledged leaders in the field of construction of mini-agricultural machinery.
This was the first part of the article “Multifunctional power tillers from BENASSI. Test Drive.”. Read the second part.
Adjustments of the power tiller. Instructions for cleaning filter, installing tires, adjusting carburetor, transmission
Power block adjustments significantly increase the service life of a power block. With any intensity of use the technique requires timely maintenance, change of consumables, spare parts, oil, etc.д.
In this article, let’s look at these adjustments to a power block:
Adjusting the clearance of the bevel gears in the main gear of the drive axle
The maintenance of power tillers is divided into three types of operations:
To improve the performance and reliability of your power tiller, you need to run it in. The running-in period is compulsory for new and overhauled machines.
So let’s talk about key adjustments on your power tiller.
The carburetor of the motoblock is adjusted as follows:
very carefully turn the main and idle speed nozzles screws as far as they go and then turn them both back 1.25 turns.
Starting the engine. After the machine has warmed up to the desired temperature, you need to lever the throttle on the right handle of the control rod to the “min” position.
set the minimum stable idling speed with the screw.
Adjust the maximum idle speed with the screw.
Set the minimum sustained idle speed with the screw.
Repeat the steps of this paragraph.4 and ensure smooth operation of the engine at the minimum idle speed.
Put the throttle lever in the position of the maximum possible speed of the engine. If the engine fails to operate properly adjust the throttle lever by unscrewing the main air cap screw.
Carburetor K-60 B, which is installed on motocultivator MK-1 and single-axis tractor M-3, is regulated by two screws: a screw that regulates the idle speed and the throttle position screw.
To adjust such a carburetor, proceed as follows
Disconnect the air filter housing together with the filter element.
Use the lever to open the choke located in the carburettor inlet.
Turn the spring-loaded screw. The throttle valve is then positioned so that the distance between its base and the air channel end is between 2 to 2.5 millimetres.
Turn the adjustment screw all the way in and then turn it back 0.5 or 1 turn.
Start the engine and warm it up for three to five minutes.
Slowly unscrew the adjusting screw. The engine speed starts to increase slightly at first, and then gradually decelerates. Engine RPM is reduced thanks to an ideal ratio between the adjustment screw and the throttle.
Loosen the screw and thus reduce the engine rpm again. Then carefully turn the adjusting screw and return it to the desired position.
BCS tractor Clutch adjustment
Repeat these adjustments until the engine speed is stable at the lowest possible speed. Stability is checked by the method of quick opening/closing the throttle. If the engine stops on opening, the mixture should be enriched by turning the adjusting screw 4. In the event that a malfunction occurs when the engine rapidly closes the throttle, the screw should be removed.
After all these actions, the air filter can be assembled.
In order to check the installation of the electronic magneto of the ignition system, which is included in the design of the MK-1 power tiller and M-3 power tiller, you should check the coincidence of the dashes on the magneto and on the crankcase of the motor. If they do not match, it is necessary to loosen the screws that secure the magneto on the engine crankcase. Magneto itself should be turned, after which the dashes align, and you can screw back.
Checking magneto engine DM-1, which is installed on a tractor MB-1 single axle is the method of controlling the distance between the fan- flywheel magnet and the stator. The sequence of operations is as follows:
Disconnect fan guard and cord starter.
Rotate the fan-machine so that the magnet fits under the magneto stator and the fan arrow coincides with the right shoe of the stator.
Using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the stator shoes and the magnet. The normal value is between 0.10 and 0.15 millimeters.
If you need to adjust the distance, loosen the bolts, and then, by moving the stator, set the correct value for the shoes.
Check the distance again, retighten the bolts and secure the stator.
Check and repair spark plug is as follows:
Inspect the steel and ceramic parts.
If some parts are covered with soot or oil, they should be cleaned, washed with gasoline, thoroughly dried and blown with an air stream.
Use a stylus to measure the gap between the electrodes. The normal value is between 0.4 and 0.6 millimeters. Bend the side electrode if necessary.
Put the spark plug on the engine, then use the starter to turn the crankshaft and observe the color of the spark between the electrodes. it should be bright blue.
Install the o-ring and screw in the spark plug by hand as far as it will go. Then use a wrench to turn the spark plug.
If your single axle tractor is operated intensively and works in a dusty environment, it is quite often necessary to clean its filter. And this adjustment of the power tiller takes place in several steps:
Unscrew nut that secures air filter cover.
Remove the porous foam element from the cardboard element.
Wash it in gasoline, kerosene or soapy water.
Soak the foam element in M12GI oil and squeeze it carefully (but do not unscrew it by any means, as it could be damaged).
Remove the cardboard element and wash it with soap and clean water alternately, then you need to dry it.
Adjustment of transmission elements is one of the most frequent adjustments of a power tiller. Let’s talk about adjusting the clutch mechanism of the power tiller. If the fuse needs to be replaced, move the lever to the left or right to the right. The norm is from 5 to 10 millimeters at the end of the lever.
To adjust the V-belt transmission of the MK-1 motocultivator, you need to perform the following actions:
Engage and lock the clutch lever.
Lay the engine horizontally so that the clearance between the outer surfaces of the V-belt is 76 to 80 millimeters.
Fix the motor, making sure that the side surfaces of the pulleys are in the same plane.
Measure with a ruler the gap between the stop and the outer surface of the V-belt. The normal value is 1 to 3 millimeters.
Replace the shell. The clearance between the lug on its inner face and the outer face of the V-belt transmission should be 1 to 3 millimeters.
Replacing the reverse belt takes several steps:
Detach the hood of the V-belt drive.
Detach the rear guide bar of the idler pulley.
Use a wrench to loosen the fastener on the axle of the spring-loaded reverse belt roller.
Move the roller toward the motor. A gap is created between the roller and the front guide bar from which the reverse belt must be pulled.
Remove the old belt from the idler pulley and replace it with a new one.
Adjusting the meshing clearance of the bevel gears in the main drive axle of power tillers is a very time-consuming and complex process. One of the hardest adjustments on a motorblock. The lateral gap is reduced by moving shims from under the right arm flange to under the first arm flange. The normal value of this gap is 0.18 to 0.40 millimeters.
After adjusting the side play, proceed to check the contact patch in the teeth. The basic method of adjustment is as follows: a few teeth of one of the gears should be covered with paint and turned several times in two directions. If the contact patch covers more than half of its surface, it is properly adjusted.
To remove a tire from a power tiller wheel you need to do the following
deflate the tire by deflating it.
Push tire beads from the rim flanges into its recess, which is located on the opposite side of the valve.
Place the two mounting blades between the tire beads and the rim on the vent side. The distance on each side should be 10 centimeters.
Carefully drag a part of bead of tire near the valve over the edge of the rim, and then the whole bead.
Pull the valve out of the hole in the rim, and then disconnect the tube from the tire.
Rotate the wheel. Slide one part of the bead into the recess of the rim and pull the rim out of the tire with a spatula.
Installation of the tire on the rim should be done on a clean flat surface (eg, floor), but be sure that during the installation of the tire on the tire does not get dirt and earth. Before this process it is necessary to check the technical condition of the rim, inner tube and tire. The rim must be free of dirt, rust, and mechanical damage. If there are any cracks and dents, you need to clean them up carefully, remove the dirt from the surface and remove the corrosion. After that the rim is painted and dried.
The sequence for mounting the tire is as follows:
One side of the tire is pushed over the edge of the rim. To do this, first put on one edge of the bead, and then using the paddles tighten the remaining part.
Dry the tube and sprinkle it lightly with talcum powder. After that it is placed in the tire and carefully straightened out.
Put the valve of the tube into the hole in the rim.
Push the second tire bead over the edge of the rim. Do it this way: firstly tighten one part of the bead and then using the assembly blades tighten the remaining part.
It is important to make sure that the tugging of the board ends near the valve. In addition, you can not allow it to skew.
The spool is screwed into the valve and the tire can be inflated. Make sure that the tire is placed concentric and fits snugly against the rim flanges.
Using a manometer you need to check the air pressure in the tire. If it is outside the norm, it is necessary to adjust the right value.
The last stage of mounting the tire is as follows: It is absolutely necessary to check the tightness of the valve spool and put a safety cap on it.
These adjustments for your power tiller every owner should know. We’ve covered the basic and most commonly required processes for those.repair. Thanks to timely and correct maintenance the single axle tractor will serve you for many years without losing its efficiency. You can also read an article about oil for power tillers.
Clutch for power tiller. types, construction and principle of action
The clutch is an integral element of the transmission, whose task is to transfer the torque received by the crankshaft to the gearbox, and disconnect the gearbox from the engine when shifting the speeds of the motoblock. It is thanks to the presence of this mechanism that the agricultural machine moves smoothly from the ground and can stop without completely disengaging the engine.
Clutch for power tiller. design and principle of operation
The clutch of absolutely any agricultural machine consists of a number of elements. The construction of the mechanism includes:
The control mechanism consists of the release lever, which is connected to the pressure plate via a pedal cable and rods. When the machine’s clutch device locks, a signal is created that is received by the squeeze levers. They, in turn, disconnect the driven disc from the pressure body, which disconnects the mechanism.
A bearing in the clutch assembly of a modern motor-block tractor serves to reduce friction by preventing the levers, which rotate about their axis, from coming into contact with the completely stationary drawbar. A spring is responsible for returning the control mechanisms to their original position. The outlet, in this case, is pushed away from the levers by the required distance for the final disengagement.
Types and description of power tiller clutch mechanisms
Depending on the peculiarities of the design of motor blocks, agricultural units can be equipped with these types of clutch:
Depending on their type of friction, clutch mechanisms are divided into dry, air or engine oil bath clutches. Depending on the initial starting mode, you can find non-permanent and permanently engaged clutches on the market.
Clutch for a motor-block with their own hands
Before making a clutch on a single axle tractor, you need to prepare certain parts. For work you will need:
- Flywheel and the primary shaft, taken from the gearbox from a Soviet Moskvich;
- A knuckle and a serviceable hub from a Tavria car;
- The driven pulley, complete with two knobs;
- Crankshaft from the car GAZ-69;
In addition to preparing spare parts, we advise you to study the drawings of the clutch system in advance. These show the location of the parts and how to mount them during assembly. Making the clutch mechanism is done in this order:
- First, grind the crankshaft used so that it does not touch the other internal elements of the unit;
- Next, put the standard hub of your motor-block on the shaft;
- Flatten a place in the shaft surface for installing a bearing. As a result, the hub should be installed without the slightest play and the pulley should rotate freely around its axis;
- Then turn the crankshaft over and do the above steps on the reverse side of the crankshaft;
- Then drill 6 holes in the pulley with a 5-mm drill bit. The distance between the holes must be the same. Keep in mind that 10mm bolts will be screwed into the holes, so you also need to drill holes on the back side of the pulley;
The handmade clutch is suitable for installation on the motor blocks Agro, Neva MB-2 and other brands of agricultural machines.
Design and principle of clutch operation on a power tiller
Clutch. this is one of the most important elements of a modern power tiller, whose main function is to transmit torque from the crankshaft of the unit to its gearbox. It is the quality clutch available in the design for the motor block that allows the agricultural unit to move smoothly from the ground and, if necessary, stop without the need to completely disengage the motor.
Regardless of the class of power tiller, the clutch in its standard design consists of the same parts.
When the mechanism locks, a signal is generated by the push-back levers. At the same time, the latter disengages the slave element from the pressure plate, which results in a complete disengagement of the existing clutch in the motorblock device.
The automatic clutch of a domestic power tiller is equipped with a bearing that acts as a friction reducer. It allows the arms to rotate without coming into contact with each other or with the stationary drawbar when the power tiller is in operation. A spring built into the clutch mechanism ensures that the control unit returns to its original position after each gear change cycle.