How to grease a release bearing on a power tiller

Zirka” LX 2040 D power tiller

Diesel single axle tractor from “Zirka” brand, designed for small plots of land (up to 0,7 ha). 4-stroke engine component together with a multi-disc clutch and gearbox can run for several hours straight without overheating. It has a service life of 3 thousand kW. Mothballed gearbox; Rapid wear and tear of spare parts.

  • 4-horsepower Kama diesel engine, which is cooled down by the air flow, and the start. only in manual mode;
  • lower shaft oil seal guards of labyrinth type;
  • Control levers with rubber anti-vibration pads;
  • availability of emergency braking handle of engine unit;
  • toothed gearbox;
  • minimal resource consumption;
  • pneumatic wheels for smooth riding on any type of surface;
  • complete with a 6-section cutter and guard discs.
  • Traction. 2,94 kW;
  • The fuel capacity is 2.5 liters;
  • Lubrication sump. 800 ml;
  • Diesel consumption is 300 ml/h;
  • Cultivation width/depth. 88/16 cm;
  • The dimensions are 1.65 x 0.62 x 1.1 m;
  • Weight. 80 kg.

How the hydraulic clutch system works

If your car’s transmission has a hydraulic clutch, you’re probably wondering exactly how it works in your shift system. Most clutches, especially on older cars, work with a gear system that shifts gears when shifting. With an automatic transmission, you don’t shift at all. the machine does it for you.


Essentially, the clutch works by means of a shift lever or gearshift lever.You press the clutch with your foot and this activates the flywheel. It works with the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch disc and stopping the driveshaft from turning. The plate is then released and put back into the gear of your choice.


A hydraulic clutch works on the same basic principle, but differs from its mechanical counterpart with fewer components. This type of clutch has a reservoir of hydraulic fluid, and when you depress the clutch pedal, the fluid builds up pressure.It works together with the clutch disc to disengage the gear you’re in and engage the new gear.


It’s important to make sure you always have enough fluid. For most cars, this is not a problem. It’s a closed loop system, so usually your fluid should last the life of the car and not need to be replaced. The exception, of course, are those who have the habit of driving a very old car. Then you can leak because of wear and tear, and you need to refill the fluid.You do not have to worry about buying something unusual. Simple brake fluid is fine.


Obviously, your shifting system is vital to the performance of your vehicle. The hydraulic clutch provides the shifting, and if it doesn’t work, you’ll find yourself driving in the same gear. but not for long. You’ll have to have a mechanic check that out. To avoid problems with the hydraulic clutch, it’s best to avoid the practice known as “clutch control”.It simply means that you’ve developed the habit of constantly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal, raising and lowering it to adjust the speed. That’s what your brakes are for! With proper care, your hydraulic clutch will last a long time.

What to use to lubricate the release bearing

So, the question of what kind of lubricant to use has come up. There’s a lot of disagreement and nobody agrees on that. It should be said right away that a freshly purchased bearing does not need this procedure, because it already has its own factory portion of the lubricant. But, if you have removed an already working clutch bearing, and on DO still be whole, then this is a hot topic.

Turning to the literature, you can find the main types of greases that have been used in the past. These are solidol and nigrol. The latter is also poured into the rear axle of the car. Well, these two substances are in principle suitable for a release bearing. Nevertheless, in the course of time more advanced lubricants have been invented that do a better job. You can use molybdenum grease or graphite grease. The latter is not necessary, as the bearing does not feel much heat.

For the lubrication of the release bearing, almost any thick synthetic grease will do

Nowadays, there are very many types of thick greases, designed for a variety of purposes. Almost all of them are suitable for our situation. Take Castrol, for example. If you do happen to get lost when buying, you can ask the salesman, who will pick up the right product for you. Most importantly, it must be synthetic grease. Otherwise, it will not last long and will begin to coking, that is, curdle into small pieces.

How to Lubricate Clutch Bearing on VAZ 2107. Clutch release bearing grease. How to Grease a Clutch Bearing

Many drivers are faced with the question of how to grease a release bearing without removing the box. This need arises when using the car in severe conditions. If you often have to drive on snow and water, the grease is washed out of the cushion bearing. It starts to “squeal” and gradually breaks down. As a result, the clutch can fail at one point.

To avoid such a turn of events, it is necessary to renew the grease at the first manifestation of the lack of grease. A symptom of this condition can be an intermittent bearing howling. If it persists without stopping, it is likely that a new clutch release will have to be purchased.

How to grease the release bearing without removing the box. is of interest to every driver who is faced with this need. The problem is that due to the structure of the bearing, it is quite difficult to lubricate it. It does not have any technological holes for re-lubrication. Some inexperienced motorists try to solve this problem by drilling a hole in the bell jar and pumping grease in it. You can’t get rid of the problem this way, but you can get rid of it by adding a new one.

The inability to relubricate is due to the very design of the release bearing. In most modern vehicles, they are generally non-disassembled roller clutches. The engineers thought they would only lubricate them once for the entire operating life. Although there are methods of greasing such products, but we’ll talk about that later.

The clutch is attached to the shaft in conjunction with the clutch. It’s constantly under load from the engine. Many people think that it spins all the time, but in fact it is not. The bearing only turns together with the shaft when the clutch is depressed. Holding the pedal for too long therefore has a negative effect on the condition of the release bearing.

As it became clear from the previous section, it is impossible to reach the bearing without removing the box. So remove the box. Depending on the model, it may be necessary to unscrew the cardan beforehand (rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive). Be careful with the CV joints. If they fall out of the box, you will have to center it. Then remove the clutch actuator lever, which is directly attached to the release plate at one end.

After that, the condition of the bearing is checked. To do this, it is enough to twist it. In working condition it should rotate without any problems. If it does not turn or is cracked, it must be replaced. The operable bearing is removed and greased. Afterwards everything is assembled in the reverse order.

There are several ways to lubricate the release bearings. Each of these methods can be used to lubricate other bearings of similar type. Remove any grease residue before work, and then dry the part.

The simplest on the face of it is to boil the bearing. But it is only at first sight. In practice, it is possible to ruin a part. And it is irrevocable. So be very careful when using this method. To perform you will need:

Personally, I think it’s imperative to grease all bearings before installing them in the car. The quality of Chinese, which flooded the market with spare parts. parts leave much to be desired, and the grease there is a pea (maybe it should be so)? I do not think so), almost the same can be said for domestic parts. And we also drive a Niva. So, fords, heavy loads, higher temperatures, higher revs.

Lubrication of the release bearing (and not only)

You need:. A tin of iron;. Lithol (Or alternative grease, see “Lubricant”). below);. the bearing itself;. a thermometer (you can use your finger;).

Take a clean tin. Put the lithol in, put the bearing in. put on low heat, heat grease to water, about 60-70 oh, no more, otherwise the plastic casing of the bearing may melt. After we wait for the grease to dissolve, twist the bearing slightly. Remove the can from the fire, let it cool down WITH the bearing. It should be able to dissolve the grease and flow through the cracks, filling it and making it thick.

Preferably wash out old grease from the bearing with WD-40, and remove the WD-40.

You can use imported greases. Their advantages: they are washed out with water worse, their boiling point is higher, at high temperatures and rpm it splashes out of the bearing slower, etc. Minus. we can’t grease using the first method. Lose their properties in the state of water (80-100 °), it is understandable:).

what is clutch release bearing? how clutch bearing looks? how it works? | sansCARi sumit

The method is dangerous if the plastic cage is damaged and the gaskets are damaged.

2 way. Lubricate through the slots with a syringe.

grease, release, bearing, power

Need:. the syringe, the biggest medical syringe. Drill. Drill bit (we will not drill anything). grease. a piece of double-sided adhesive tape. the bearing itself. the vise.

You may try squeezing warm grease into bearing slots with a syringe through the needle. But this is long and insignificant.

We clamp the clutch in a vice. Fill the syringe with warm grease. I strongly recommend to use imported oil. I use grease from Valvoline. Insert drill bit (even a pencil may be useful)!), we wrap some double-sided adhesive tape around it. Now unscrew it with drill (double-sided adhesive tape to the bearing rotating part) and squeeze grease directly into the gap with a syringe. The torque sucks the grease in. Let’s gather the excesses and repeat the procedure (3-6 times). I used to get 3 ml of lube in one go:).

See also  How to properly plow with a power tiller

At last I’ve seen the desired result, the grease creeped from the bottom, back side.

I have a squeeze plate firm SCT has a different shape. It wasn’t hard to push in.

Preferably wash the bearing from the old grease with WD-40 and remove the WD-40. I don’t think you can break anything if you’re smart about it.

Release bearing is the bearing itself and the stem. Pry the foot out of the cage, remembering the position. Remove the protective sleeves from the bearing, lubricate heartily, develop. Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly;)

It’s dangerous to damage bearings, seals, oil seals.

Lots more ways. These basic. So many words on bearing lubrication. Thanks for the heads up.

The main function of the clutch is primarily to smoothly disengage the transmission and engine. The clutch must be able to withstand the stresses that exceed the maximum torque of the engine. Here is just a must-have for any clutch:

  • Protect against possible overload;
  • interrupting the power flows between the box and the gear motor during stopping;
  • Disconnection of power flows in the event of gear shifting;
  • Scheduled connection of the vehicle mass to the working engine;
  • vibration damping

Actually, the bearing grease performs a number of important functions, among which the following ones should be mentioned

  • Prevents foreign bodies such as dust, sand and other contaminants from penetrating into the bearing
  • Prevents metal corrosion
  • It favourably contributes to the cooling of the internal environment
  • Tangibly reduces the coefficient of friction between the whole rocking surface, which can arise in case of their even partial deformation under serious load, deformation during the operation of the bearing itself
  • Between the main working surfaces, it forms a thin film of oil that reduces the friction of the rolling elements against the rings or cage, thus increasing the possible service life of the bearing itself, and also helps reduce the noise level during operation.

In fact, you should also necessarily take into account the fact that the clutch is a fairly time-consuming process, which requires consistency, care, accuracy and so on. Therefore, if there is no experience in carrying out this activity, it is better to seek immediate assistance from highly qualified professionals. By the way, the clutch bearing is one of the most responsible, but at the same time, the most “fragile” links in the clutch system, which is located on the main clutch to separate the engine and the transmission. The main reason of its premature failure is the low quality and incorrect use of lubricants. Improper lubrication of the node leads to rapid wear and tear, and as a consequence, the appearance of all kinds of extraneous noises, a constant full buzz. The complexity of full access to the existing bearing imposes great demands on the lubricants used for its full maintenance. these lubricants must have an extended service life, as well as retain their own operational properties in the widest possible range of temperatures (from the lowest to very high). In addition, the grease for the clutch release bearing must be as effective as possible, even at higher rotational speeds. For foreign cars and rare cars, we recommend immediately contacting a car service with a good reputation, so that the selection of grease and works were carried out by highly qualified professionals.

Many drivers are faced with the question of how to lubricate the release bearing without removing the box. This condition occurs when the machine is operated under severe conditions. If you frequently drive in snow and water, the grease will wash out of the release bearing. It starts to “squeal” and gradually decays. As a result, the clutch can fail at some point.

To prevent this from happening, relubrication is necessary at the first signs of a lubricant shortage. This can be indicated by intermittent bearing howling. If it lasts without ceasing, you’ll probably have to buy a new release plate.

How to grease a release bearing on a power tiller

To get the single axle tractor to work as long as it should, you need to prepare it properly after purchase.

grease, release, bearing, power

1) Check the oil level in the engine and gearbox.

To do this, you need to put the single axle tractor on a flat, horizontal surface.Check the oil level in the engine with the dipstick located on the right side of the engine next to the motor shaft. For a precise check, remove the dipstick and wipe it dry before dipping it in again to see the level. The oil level should be between the “minimum” and “maximum” marks.

If the level is low, be sure to add oil. It is also important to find out what kind of oil is in the engine, if it is not possible, it is better to change it. For a diesel engine, you usually use 15W-40 grade diesel oil, but the grade can vary depending on the ambient temperature.For the gearbox, it is recommended to use TAD 17 or similar oils. If you use your power tool during cold weather, it is necessary to use winter or multigrade gear oil.

2) Fill oil reservoir of air filter with oil.

These power tillers use air filters with oil bath. To fill the oil bath of the air filter you must unscrew the wing nut of the filter cover, remove the filter element, pour 100-150 ml into the oil bath. 3) Check the engine oil level (by the level mark on the oil bath housing), replace the filter element with the gaskets and attach the filter cover, secure it with the wing nut.

Do not start engine without filter or oil bath!

3) Check coolant level.

For gearboxes, it is recommended to use TAD 17 or similar oils. make sure the level of coolant is correct. before starting the engine. Note that if you use distilled water in the summer, then before the winter period it must be replaced with antifreeze or tosol.

4) Adjust the drive belt tension.

The tension of the drive belt must be adjusted accordingly. Loose tension will cause the belt to pop off and reduce power output, and excessive tension. to rapid wear and tear. To tension or loosen the belts: loosen the nuts fixing the motor to the frame and use the adjusting bolt at the front of the frame. When the tension of the belts is adjusted, tighten the nuts securing the motor. Proper tension is determined by pressing the belts with your fingers. The amount of deflection should be 30 mm.

Adjustment is to ensure that the position of the clutch disc itself to the clutch basket is at a uniform and correct distance around the entire circumference of the disc. Uneven alignment, results in incomplete contact and reduced friction force, which causes “slipping” of the clutch, and uneven wear of the disc. Adjusting nuts are located on the rear side of the clutch basket, on the side of the release bearing. Loosen counter nuts securing the spreader bar position adjustment nuts. and by loosening or tightening the adjusting nuts. set the clearance between the head and the release bearing at 0.3-0.5 mm. Check clearance with feeler gauges.

Don’t forget to grease the release bearing!

Wrong adjustment and bad lubrication of the release bearing can lead to rapid wear of the friction disc or overheating and release bearing failure.

6) Adjust the control rods of the power tiller.

For easy operation of the power tiller, set the control knobs to a comfortable height. Then adjust the clutch and brake actuation, because the brake actuation rod is located on the clutch actuation rod. Move the clutch lever to the “off” position.”, and set the length of the pull rod so that the two parts of the ratchet touch slightly. In this position on the clutch lever you adjust the engagement of the brake. Adjust the spring on the clutch linkage to the flag on the brake lever so that there is as little play as possible on the brake fork. Adjust the length of the pushrods for the differential, throttle and front stand to match the position of the tiller arms.

7) Check that all fasteners are properly tightened.

When your power tool is running, it causes the machine to vibrate. This may lead to loosening of the mounts. For this reason, all nuts and locknuts must be properly secured.

To keep your power tiller in good working order and to prolong its life without unscheduled repairs, it is necessary to run it in for a while. In the running-in process, all working units are running in. The running-in conditions and times are given in the table below.

As a zero load take idle, without any load on the engine, the engine speed should preferably be kept slightly below average. Some owners put a single-axle tractor on supports to raise the wheels above the ground, and in this position the single-axle tractor works for 15-20 minutes in each gear. Instead of running-in on the supports, you can attach a trailer to the tractor, and then drive it, respecting the time in each gear, first with an empty trailer (which will correspond to the zero load) gradually loading it with something load. This will make the running-in time more advantageous. The main thing is not to overheat and not to overload the engine, make breaks in the work before switching to a higher gear. After the running-in period, service and inspect the machine and change the lubricant. It is a must to change the oil after the running-in period, because there is a metal dust in it from lapping the working elements of the engine and gearbox. Service inspections and repairs (every 1500-2000 hours of operation).

WARNING! Carefully read the operating and safety manual before using the machine!

Maintenance and adjustment of the MTZ and UMZ tractor clutch.

1 Maintenance and adjustment of the clutch of MTZ and UMZ tractor. Maintenance of the clutch consists of periodic lubrication, checking and tightening of threaded joints, and adjustment. At TO-1 (60 for old models and 125 mths of work for new models) it is necessary to lubricate the release bearing with grease “Lithol-24 “Solidol C” or “Solidol Z” through the grease nipple, which is located on the clutch housing connected with bearing by flexible hose or on the lead housing. At service-2 (240 for older models and 500 hours of work for new models) the following clutch checks and adjustments are made. In tractors MTZ-80 and MTZ-82 check the pedal’s free stroke. it is the basic indicator of clutch brake adjustment correctness. Free travel of the pedal (cf. Fig. 3.1, b) the clutch should be mm, which corresponds to a gap of 3 mm) between the release bearing and the release levers. The clearance between the bearing and the head of each release lever should not differ from one another by more than 0.3 mm. The clutch and brake are interlocked. To adjust them disconnect brake rod 11 from the lever 9. Liberate the pedal from influence of the servo device spring for which screw in the bolt 4 up to the stop in the bracket 6 and loosen the bolts 5 for possible movement of the bracket 6. By changing the length of rod 8 to set the pedal free travel mm. Give the bracket b in the highest position by turning it around the axis 7 until it stops at bolt 5, and tighten the bolts securing the bracket. Remove bolt 4 and return the pedal to its original position until it hits the roller. If to move the pedal to the size of a free travel the spring should return it to the initial position. To adjust the brake disconnect the rod 11 from the lever 13 and turn it counter-clockwise until it stops. In this position connect rod 11 temporarily to lever 13 and then shorten the rod length by 7

See also  How to tension the chain on the tiller of the power tiller

2 mm. Re-connect the rod to the lever, cotter pin, tighten the lock nuts securely. If the clutch has been disassembled, the position of depressing levers 3 (see the diagrams below). Fig. 3.1a) is broken. Therefore they must be adjusted by means of adjusting screws 4 so that the distance from the place of contact of the levers with the bearing of the guide to the end face of the hub of the supporting disc is 12±0.5 mm. The difference in the size of the individual levers should not exceed 0.3 mm. After adjustment lock the screws with counter nuts. Tractors of the UMZ family. The following adjustments are made in the clutch of tractors YUMZ-6L and YUM3-6M:. the pedal’s free stroke (the gap between the outlet stop sleeve and the squeezing levers);. the pedal’s travel up to the stop in the latch that provides full disengagement of the main clutch;. clearance between thrust bolts and front pressure plate that ensures disengagement of the main clutch without disengaging PTO drive. Proceed as follows to adjust the clutches. Set the clutch pedal’s free play within 305 mm by changing the rod length. To increase freedom of movement, lengthen the rod, to decrease freedom of movement, lengthen the rod. shorten. Check the pedal stroke up to the stop in the latch, which must be 145±5 mm. If necessary m pedal stroke can be adjusted by traction of lockshaft drive. To increase pedal travel shorten the rod, to decrease pedal travel decrease the rod. Lengthen. Adjust the servo amplifier mechanism to ensure that the minimum pedal force is applied when the clutch is released, and that the pedal is returned to its original position. Adjustment is made by moving the servo amplifier bracket along the oval holes. To tighten the springs of the servo amplifier use the stop screw, unscrew it 3-8 mm.

3 Remove the cover of the bottom window in the clutch housing and screw in the bolts 24 up to the stop (see page 54). Figure. 3.5) and then unscrew each of them by 7/6 of a turn (seven clicks of the locking device). In case of heavy wear of the clutch discs its adjustment is performed by changing the position of depressing levers with the simultaneous change of the length of the main drawbar. Adjustment is carried out in this sequence: remove the cover of the lower clutch hatch, adjust the pushing levers with nuts to ensure the size of 73.5 mm between the end face PTO drive hub and the claws of the pushing levers, change the length of the main rod and set the gap 3-4 mm between the thrust bushing diverter and pushing levers. The discrepancy between the gaps for the three arms should not exceed 0.3 mm. After the final establishment of the gap squeeze arm nuts cotter pin; screw the bolts 24 to the stop, and then release each of them for 7/6 turn. When working with a new or repaired (replacing the discs) clutch, the discs will wear down intensively and the original adjustment will be disturbed. When running-in (approx. 30 hrs on the tractor), the clearance between the arbor bushing and the squeeze levers shall be 31 mm and the difference in clearances of the three squeeze levers shall not exceed 1.3 mm. Clutches of YUMZ-6KL, YUMZ-6KM and YUMZ-8280 tractors differs from each other only by construction and location of control mechanism. Adjust the clutch after the tractor running in and every 500 hours of work. In the clutch, adjust the clearance between the safety ring 6 (see 2.1.2. Fig. 3.6) squeeze levers 4 and thrust hub 7 of the release bearing, and also the clearance between the thrust bolts 8 and stops 9 on the pressure plate 3 of the main clutch. Tractors YUMZ-6KL, YUMZ-6KM. Adjustment sequence.

4 1. Remove the cover of the bottom hatch in the clutch housing. 2. Screw in the thrust bolts 8 to contact ah with stops 9, and then unscrew each of them by seven clicks of the locking device, which corresponds to a gap of 1.75 mm between the thrust bolts and stops 9. З. Disconnect drawbar 6 (see fig. Figure. 3.7, a) drive of clutch control mechanism from diverter lever 7. 4. Turn the lever 7 upward until the release lever stop into the release lever safety ring and then release it by 4.5 mm, which corresponds to a gap of 3-4 mm between the safety ring and the thrust hub of the release bearing. 5. Without changing the position of lever 7, adjust the length of line 6 until the holes in the line and the hole in the lever coincide and join them. After considerable wear of the clutch discs it may be impossible to restore clearance between the squeeze arm safety ring and the thrust bearing bushing by changing the length of rod 6. In this case, change the position of the push levers, and then shorten the rod 6 and in the above order (see Fig. п. 4 and 5) adjust the play. To change the position of the release levers, proceed as follows. 1. Remove the cover of the bottom hatch in the clutch housing and unplug nuts 5 (see “Clutch housing”). Fig. 3.6) Release lever rods. 2. Adjust the position of the squeezing levers 4 by turning the nuts 5 in such a way that the safety ring 2 is at a distance of 8Z±0.5 mm from the PTO drive disc 2 hub flange plane. The wear ring should be on a plane perpendicular to the pivot axis after adjustment, i.e. е. in a plane parallel to the thrust hub 7 of the release bearing. Parallelism must not exceed 0.3 mm. Before carrying out the final parallelism test, the nut 5 must be cotter pinned. After replacing discs or other clutch repair, the position of depressing levers 4 must also be adjusted with nuts 5 so that the distance

5 between the plane of the PTO drive disc hub flange 2 and the plane of the safety ring 6 was equal to 83±0,05 mm. Adjusting the clutch control mechanism. In the event of repair or replacement of parts of the control mechanism, adjust it in the following sequence. 1. Disconnect the pull rod 6 (see 4.3.2). Figure. 3.7 a) from lever 7 and release the pedal by unscrewing nuts Make sure that the bracket 9 is resting against the wall of the clutch housing through the bolt 8. If necessary, readjust the bolt. 3. Bring the lever 5 to the stop 4 by turning the screw Adjust the clearance between the thrust bushing of the release bearing and the safety ring of the clutch release levers and connect the rod 6 to the lever Adjust the gear lock mechanism by changing the rod length Start the engine and check the drive operation. Note that after starting the engine the lever 5 must remain on the stop 4. If after the engine start the lever moves away from the stop it is necessary to loose tightening of the nuts 1. The pedal should remain pressed to the stop A. Adjustment of clutch control hydraulic booster pressure relief valve. In case of disassembly. assembly or there are signs of malfunctioning of the pressure relief valve it is necessary to check pressure and adjust the valve in this sequence. 1. Disconnect (with the engine stopped) from the hydraulic booster oil pipe 13 and install the manometer in its place. 3. Start the engine, set the maximum speed of the crankshaft and read the pressure gauge. 4 Adjust the valve to pressure if necessary 3±Adjustment of clutch control hydraulic booster safety valve 3±5 С.

6 Adjust the locking mechanism. If the gear shift is difficult, adjust the locking mechanism in this sequence. 1. Disconnect the pull rod 2 from the lock-up roller Turn the lock-up roller to the position at which the gears change freely and set one of the gears to half. disengaged position. 3. Press the pedal 16 as far as it will go into the catch 15. If it is difficult to press the pedal release it by unscrewing nuts Turn a blocking roller 3 clockwise until its edge contacts (to the touch) with a clamp in a gearbox. 5.Adjust the length of the lever 2 maintaining the specified position of the pedal and the locking roller and set it in place. 6. Check adjustment of traction by shifting gears with depressed clutch pedal. If the gear is difficult to shift, shorten the rod by 0.5 to 1 turn of the fork. 7. Screw in the nuts 1 (if they were loosened) and check if they are tightened correctly. nuts are tightened correctly if the pedal 16 is pressed to the stop A and after the engine start the lever 5 remains on the stop 4. Tractors YUMZ YUMZ Adjust the clutch and its actuator in the following sequence. 1.Set the gap between the thrust bushing cushion bearing and safety ring pushing levers, equal to 40.5 mm, which is necessary: rasplintovat and take out a pin 18 (Fig. 3.7, 6); screw 10 to set the booster 13 with the lever 14 in the upper extreme position; turn the screw 10 for 3, turn and tighten, which corresponds to a gap of 40.5 mm between the safety ring squeeze levers and thrust bushing extrusion bearing, and hence the free stroke of the pedal

See also  Making a harrow for a power tiller with your own hands

7 of the clutch at mm, with the power piston in the lower end position; 2. Adjust the length of the rod 16 fork 17 to the alignment of the holes in the rod and the lever to insert and cotter pin 18. When installing the pull 16, the pedal 1 should rest against the stop A, and the power piston and spool should be in the lower extreme positions. 4. Check n if necessary to adjust the mechanism actuator blocking gearshift, for what: to loosen the nut 7; by means of a bracket 9 through the rocker 8 to combine a groove in the holder and groove B in the lever 6; tighten the nut 7; make sure that the pedal 1 rests on the stop A. 5. Start the engine and check the drive. Adjusted gear-locking mechanism should allow unlocking of synchronized gearbox rollers when pedaling to the stop in the locking 3. Other adjustments (clearance between thrust pins and pressure plate, clutch adjustments in case of heavy wear on idler plates) are similar to those discussed above. Basic indicators and regulating parameters of clutches of tractors considered are given in tab. 17.

TROUBLE knocking when starting the engine

The cause: A problem with the timing mechanism, with elements of the engine itself. The chain and crank mechanism, cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods, etc.п. Or the rollers are worn, there are defects in the timing belt drive. chain or belt.

Or the rollers and timing belt defects in the timing belt could be worse.

The rollers may make a variety of noises. whistling, howling, crunching, tapping. If the timing chain is stretched, it sounds like rustling, muffled popping can be heard. And when the revs are increased, the sounds will disappear, and after the throttle is dropped. will appear again.

Timing problems are determined by valve knocking. It is a very even, muffled knock with a characteristic interval. because the camshaft rotates twice as slowly as the crankshaft. When the oil reaches the bearings, the knock disappears. On average, it takes three seconds.

The causes of camshaft bearing wear and, in fact, knocking, are extensive. It is both bad or dirty oil, and its insufficient pressure, and scratches and minor defects of the camshaft itself.

You can still drive with this malfunction (if there are no hydro-compensators in the timing system, which will cause accelerated wear and breakage of the part). But it is not worth delaying with the repair: the problematic camshaft will shift a little, until the clearances between it and the mating parts are broken. As a result. Valve opening, loss of compression, difficulties with starting and regular operation of the engine, the threat of overheating and burnout of the piston and valves.

A pounding noise, similar in frequency to the knocking of a camshaft. sign of improper valve operation. Usually caused by increased clearance. If an engine is designed with a hydrocompressor, the same knocking means the pistons are worn or not filled sufficiently with oil.

When starting an engine when cold, idling or running at low RPM under load, you can recognize the knocking of pistons by a thumping sound, as if someone is hitting a clay pot.

A metallic, slightly muffled sound indicates worn crankshaft main bearing shells (plain bearings). In this case, after a sharp acceleration in idling mode, the sound increases, and its frequency increases with increasing revs.

Rapid knocking at irregular intervals, particularly audible with a smooth change in rpm. It is a sign of axial play of the crankshaft.

Crank rod knocking in a diesel engine. a sign of a serious breakdown, and you can not drive such a motor in any case. It is necessary to deliver the machine to the service center for the following repair. Boring of the crankshaft, replacement of crank pins, etc.п.

Why does the crankshaft knock??

The causes are plenty: over time, there are a large gap in the main or crank bearings, journals or pins wear out. Failure to observe the normal oil change interval, antifreeze leaks, fuel leakage due to damage of cylinder block gaskets, oil pressure drop, and even a banal clogged oil filter. all this may cause knocking of a crankshaft on a diesel engine. There are cases when the crankshaft knocks even after a single drive with a critical oil level in the crankcase. it is the so-called oil starvation of the engine.

How to make adjustments on MTZ-320

Let’s see how the clutch is adjusted on MTZ-320 and how to correctly place the clutch disc. As on tractors like MTZ-80, 82 and 82-1, on MTZ-320 is a dry single-disc friction clutch, which belongs to the permanent-closed type.

The clutch is secured to the flywheel with 6 bolts placed on three pins. The torque from the pressure plate and the flywheel goes to the slave plate and then to the shaft. There are 9 pairs of springs between the release discs.

The pedal can walk freely in the basket, but the limit is 40 mm. If this parameter will be more, it will be difficult to shift the gearbox, there will be problems with the operation of the mechanism.

If the pedal stroke is insufficient, it may well cause slippage, which threatens to wear out the discs.

To cope with such a situation is possible through the installation of MTZ-320 clutch. This is carried out according to the following diagram:

  • Unhook the pull rod from the lever and pull out the pin.
  • Rotate the lever counterclockwise until the bearing stops in the lever. Then you need to twist the fork rod, connect the holes on the lever and fork.
  • The fork should be rotated a few turns and try to connect to the lever, for this you need to use the pin.
  • At the very end, the contract is tightened, the pin is secured.
  • After that, you need to check the serviceability of all the nodes and mounts that are part of this system mini-tractor MTZ.

When adjusting the clutch MTZ-1221 adjust all the fixtures, which together make up the clutch MTZ. In contrast to the models of mechanisms installed on MTZ-80, 82 and 320, clutch adjustment on 1221 provides work with a system of another type.

On this tractor model there is a double-disc friction mechanism, where there is a pressure plate, called a basket. To the slave part of the system also includes 2 slave, on which there are dampers of rotation oscillation. They are on the power shaft, which provides an effective connection.

Before you put a new clutch on a Belarus mini-tractor, you must first remove it. First, the bolts that are screwed into the pressure plate are installed. Secondly, unscrew the nut mount and remove disks. Thirdly, the slave is removed first, then the middle slave, and at the very end the second slave.

Adjustment involves setting the slotted mandrel in the flywheel bearing first. Then the first slave is placed, and then the one that is mounted in the grooves of the flywheel.

Then mount the second idler after which the complete disc must be returned to its original position. They must be secured with nuts and bolts. The position of the release levers is adjusted at the very end.

Design of the clutch of the T-40 and T-40A tractor

Adjusting the clutch clutch tractor T-40 is to restore the clearance between the ends of the squeeze levers and squeeze thrust bearings, which should be 4 mm. Due to the gradual wear of the slave disc linings, the ends of the arms come close to the bearing, selecting a gap. If this is not done, the idler disc will slip due to insufficient engagement of the clutch and cause excessive wear. To restore the clutch to normal operation, first adjust the clutch, then turn the throttle trigger back to normal. е. set the clearance of 4 mm between the squeeze levers and the axial bearings of the leads. Adjust clutch when pedal stroke is reduced to 25 mm in the following two ways.1. Use the clutch pedal pull rod.2. Adjustment and pressure bolts.

When adjusting with the pull rod, undo the axle of the clutch fork, remove the axle and remove the fork from the lever. Screw or screw on the fork so that the clearance between the release bearing and the lever ends is 4 mm when the fork is connected to the lever. Then secure the fork shaft with a cotter pin.

Adjust the T-40 tractor clutch with adjustment bolts in the following sequence:1. Open the top hatch of the clutch housing.2. Unplug the nuts 13 adjustment bolts the main clutch and by removing them, set the gap by the dipstick, equal to 4 mm between the ends of the squeezing levers and squeeze thrust bearing pivot. In this position, cinch the nut. Then, by turning the crankshaft of the engine, adjust the remaining levers. The difference between the gaps between the levers must not exceed 0.4 mm. PTO clutch adjustment perform similarly to the main clutch with the only difference that the clearance of 4 mm between the ends of the squeezing levers and expander thrust bearing of the withdrawal by tightening the pressure bolts 2. After the adjustment, firmly tighten the locknuts of the pressure bolts and replace the sunroof cover. When disassembling the main clutch and PTO clutch actuator, correctly install the servo spring, which reduces the pedal force. the spring is installed in one of the bracket holes so that the pedal is held in the highest position, and when you press it the spring axis, passing through the axis of rotation of the pedal, reduces the force on the pedal. Master Wheel is: Mobile tire service, tire service around the clock, Checkout tire service, around the clock, puncture repair, removing secrets, balancing the wheels.

| Denial of responsibility | Contacts |RSS