How to know the size of a chainsaw tire.
Chain marking for chain saws
This is the defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with 1/4”, 0.325”, 3/8”, 0.404” and 3/4”’ pitch.1/4″ (6.35 mm) pitches are typical for small chains mounted on low-powered single-handled saws.
Chains in 0.325″ (8.25 mm) and 3/8″ (9.3 mm) pitch are the most common choices. than 80 % of all saws produced worldwide are equipped with these chains.
0.404″ (10.26 mm) and 3/4″ (19.05 mm) steps are typical for chains with larger links and greater efficiency. For decades they were used on Russian-made saws, but now they are only used on heavy-duty felling and harvester saws.
How to Buy Correct Chainsaw Chain Replacement (Chain/Bar Numbers Explained) The Repair Specialist
The greater the pitch of the chain, the larger the chain links and the higher the performance, but the wider the kerf. Requires a larger saw to overcome increasing cutting resistance. Chains with a small pitch have other advantages. more teeth per unit length, smoother cutting action and therefore less vibration, and a cleaner cut.
Thickness of the drive link. The chain slides in the bar groove during operation, and this sliding must be smooth, without snags and at the same time without unnecessary “chatter. To prevent the chain from “jumping off”, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove should match each other exactly. All are provided in five standard sizes:
- 1.1 mm (0.043”) for low-powered saws
- 1.3 mm (0,050”) utility and semi-professional chains,
- 1.5mm (0.058″) powerful and high performance saws,
- 1.6 mm (0.063″) and 2.0 mm (0.080″) high performance saws.
The intended use imposes its own requirements on the chains used. For example, when you have to saw hard and dirty wood or in demolition and construction, it is best to use the special Picco Duro or Rapid Duro carbide chains, which have solid carbide teeth or pads, giving them unrivaled strength and durability of use. Some jobs just can’t be done without them.
It is also a well-known fact that it is best to use special chains for longitudinal (ie. along the grain) cuts in wood. The main difference between longitudinal and transverse chains are the angles of attack of the cutting links. For cross-cutting saw chains they are 25-35 degrees. In the case of rip saw chains (e.g. STIHL Picco Micro X chains) the angles are sharper, from 5 to 15 degrees.
Chains that are inconsistent with their intended use result in either reduced productivity or increased aggressiveness, heavy vibration and extra stress on the chainsaw engine.
Additional features of the chain are profile height and cutting depth.
Chains are either high-profile or low-profile according to the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar. High-profile chains are usually used for professional purposes to get maximum cutting performance. Low profile chains are used in chainsaws for domestic and hobby chainsaws, t.к. Thanks to the increased support area of the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cuttings they are safer.
Depth of cut is the size of the gap between the top edge of the tooth and the kerf, which controls the thickness of the chip. Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025 inch (or 0.635 mm) and 0.030 inch (or 0.762 mm), less often. with gaps up to 0.07 inch (or 1.778 mm), the latter are designed for machine felling units.
Producers of chainsaws recommend to use chain bars of certain sizes and specifications for each particular model. To choose the right one, it is worth considering these parameters and then you won’t have any problems.
When selecting, consider the basic five parameters, these are:
- guide slot width.
- Bar sprocket pitch.
- The number of links in the chain designed for it.
- Type of chain shank and models of chain saws on which it is allowed to be installed.
Depending on the power of the chainsaw, it is possible to fit it with headsets of different lengths, which makes it possible to adjust the performance and the load on the saw. The length can be specified by manufacturers both in centimeters and in inches and, as a rule, it is not the entire length of the bar, but only the length of its working part. Choosing the right guide bar for a chainsaw must begin with a study of the chainsaw manual and find out the permissible length for a particular model. For example, 14″ or 15″ is the recommended length for the STIHL MS 180 chain saw.
The width of the guide bar groove and the pitch of the chain sprocket on the bar have to fit the chain on the bar, otherwise the chain can not be fitted on the bar. Groove width for domestic chainsaw models is 1.1 и 1.3 mm for professional models 1.5. The most common sprocket pitch sizes are 0.325 and 3/8 inch.
Depending on the type of shank, the bar can only be fitted to certain chain saws. This is because the chain lubrication hole on bars for certain brands of chain saws may be located in different places. For example, a STIHL guide bar cannot be mounted on a Husqvarna chain saw and vice versa. so be sure to take that into account when making your choice.
You can see a great video description of the selection process below. In this video the expert of sales department of gasoline power tools, tells about the basic characteristics of chain saw equipment of its types and sizes.
If your saw cuts awkwardly. causes and what to do
Often sawyers are faced with the fact that at one moment the saw begins to cut crookedly. This not only causes inconvenience, but also complicates the sawing procedure. The sawyer not only has to work hard to hold the tool, but also to level it. Few people know that it is forbidden to operate a tool with such a deformation. Let’s find out what causes an uneven cut with a chainsaw and why it is dangerous for the sawyer.
If saw starts to cut awkwardly, it means that there is a hardly noticeable deformation of the guide bar. Deformation is caused by the bar shoulder, which is worn unevenly. As a result, the chain is not straight, but is bent slightly. The amount of misalignment may be invisible to the eye.
If the guide bar is unevenly worn, it can be repaired by changing it. It is nearly impossible to mill the beads of the guide rail evenly, so we recommend that you replace the guide rail and the chain. The dangers of operating a deformed chainsaw guide bar are that the chain shank can jump out of the groove, with dire consequences.
The chainsaw bar, like the chain, is under a lot of stress, that is why it is subject to wear
When wear occurs, it is important to replace the part in time, without waiting for adverse consequences. How to choose and what to take into account when buying a chain saw tire, described in detail in the article
Buying a tire is not a simple thing
If you buy a tire that differs from the original, there is a high probability that the old chain and the new tire will not match each other at all. Ideal: try on all three key components. the bar/chain pair and the chainsaw itself. A tiny difference, sometimes not even noticeable to the eye, of just one link may be critical for the whole assembly: the chain will either not fit at all or will sag.
Next point: Different chainsaws are designed for different bar widths and the drive links are therefore designed for different bar widths. Wide chainsaw slots are designed for a chain that can withstand heavy use and is of high quality and performance. When choosing a chain, it is important to check the width available for the chainsaw.
Find the chain and guide bar for your chainsaw. And also tips on how to use.
Choosing the chain and guide bar for a chainsaw is a difficult task for many people, so I decided to tell in this article about it in detail. At the end some tips on how to use.
Choosing a chain
The easiest way is if you have not worn out the information on the bar on the chain that suits you. Then it is easy to buy a chain by these parameters. The second is if you have left the package (bag or box) of the chain. From the markings on the packaging you can find out the number of links in the chain. The third option is also not complicated, but it is necessary to know on what parameters it is necessary to select a chain.
How to count the links
Chain length is not measured in centimeters but by the number of links. To make it faster and more convenient to count the links, the chain must be folded and the links must be aligned opposite each other. Then count in pairs, then multiply by 2. If there is one link left at the end without a pair, then after multiplying, this link is added to the total. For example, 2821=57.
Chain pitch is the distance between the rivets, measured in inches. The main sizes now found on saws are ¼″, 3/8″, 0.325″, 0.375″, 0.404″. They are used depending on the class of chainsaw. The most common pitches are 3/8″ and 0.325″. Applicable on domestic and semi-professional saws.
Drive link tooth thickness
Drive link tooth thickness all manufacturers have lately indicated in mm. The following are used: 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm. Used depending on the class of chainsaw and the length of the bar. The most common is 1.3 mm. If the thickness of the bar groove is wider than the thickness of the link, the chainsaw will wiggle while sawing.
It is not possible to select the thickness of the link using the bar. Especially if the bar has already been used. In the used bar the groove is worn and can in no way be the reference. It is better to measure the link with a micrometer or caliper.
Knowing all three of these parameters, you can buy the right chain for your chainsaw.
There are several things to consider when selecting a tire:
The length of the bar should be chosen based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, if you do not have such information, pick up the same one that was used.
the bar with a different type of shank is very important, as a different shank will either not fit or will only do harm. Basic division of tire shank types: closed and open. Next, pick up exactly the shape.
choose the thickness of the groove according to the thickness of the drive link. For example, if you have a link thickness of 1.3mm, the slot width should be 1.3mm.
the pitch of the chain is important so that the sprocket pitch is in line with the chain pitch.
Determining if a chainsaw spur sprocket is worn out.
If your bar has a hole for chain lubrication, it must be in exactly the same place. If it is not matched or is missing, there is no grease flow to the bar and chain. This leads to overheating and rapid wear of the chain and bar or complete wear.
When you have decided on all the parameters and are going to the store, be sure to take the chain and the bar with you. This will help your salesperson for proper selection or you for comparison and reassurance.
Always choose a chain with a hardened tooth. It is also a good idea to have a mark on the cutting tooth of the chain to know how to sharpen it. You can also use this mark to determine the sharpening angle of the chain.
When you are finished, loosen the chain a little until there is a little slack in it. It’s no secret that when you saw the chain gets hot and stretches, then we put it on the guide bar. To keep the chain tight, loosen the tension. This prolongs chain life.
flip the bar to the other side before every sawing. Uneven wear and tear on the guide bar will also extend the life of the saw.
It is best to have one or two chains in stock. You need it in order to change them in turns after each sawing, again to increase service life.
If you do not have a guide bar or saw, you can turn to special services of chain makers on the Internet. These services help you find the right chainsaw chain and guide bar by model for all well-known brands of chainsaws.
Now you know all the parameters you need to choose the right chainsaw chain and guide bar. Good luck with your work!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section
Why you should not cut corners on quality?
The bar is one of the chain saw’s most important working parts. Like all other elements, it fails and wears out from time to time. A tool with a defective guide bar is not safe to use. Change guide bars in time. How much does a tire cost?? Depends on the quality and size of the product. You can, of course, buy a cheap one, but it does not have a long service life.
When shopping for a chainsaw tire, consider the following recommendations:
- give preference to original brand-name products from the same manufacturer as your chain saw;
- You can determine the bar length correctly with a tape measure, but it is still more reliable to look at the marking or in the passport of the tool;
- Do not skimp on quality, because cheap consumables wear out quickly and their integrity is compromised.
Not only the performance and operator comfort of the tool, but also the health of the operator depends on the quality of the parts. The most dangerous consequence of using low-quality tires is their fracture in the process. At high speed, a broken part can cause serious injury to the operator. This is why it is so important to buy the right quality branded consumables.
About the width of the groove on chainsaw tires
Before knowing the dimensions of the chainsaw guide bars, it is necessary to remember that tools are classified into three types. domestic or amateur, semi-professional and professional. Depending on the type of tool accessory, chainsaws have guide rails with corresponding groove widths.
- The width of the groove in the guide bar of a domestic chainsaw is 1.1-1.3 mm
- semi-professional tools are fitted with devices with a slot width of 1.3 to 1.5 mm
- Professional machines work with tires that have a groove width of 1.5 to 1.6 mm
The size of the chain shank may not match the width of the bar groove if the headset overheats. If the chain overheats, it can stretch and break while you are using it.
This is of interest!The chain pitch mismatch with the chain drive sprocket may also lead to overheating of the headset. The tool also depends on the correct functioning of the drive sprocket. This sprocket is not lubricated during operation and will therefore wear out more quickly. High-quality bearings can compensate for fast sprocket failure
To extend the life of this important part of the chainsaw guide. it is recommended that lubricants be applied every 8-10 hours of operation
The main criteria to consider when choosing a chainsaw are:
Engine power (powerful saws last longer, t.к. work on them, not at the limit of their capabilities) Length of the bar (depending on the task at hand, it is necessary to choose a tool with a bar of appropriate length). For example, a 14-inch bar is good for cutting small tree trunks. This guide bar is easy to use when working in the garden. For felling, tires with a length of 18 inches or more are used. Weight of the model (this criterion affects the convenience of using the tool) Hands are less tired when working with light chain saw models. Fuel consumption (it is economically reasonable to use an economical tool in the work)
When choosing a chainsaw, it is worth paying attention to models with low fuel consumption, as well as models with lower emissions. Type of chain tensioning mechanism. There are chainsaw models that can adjust the chain tension without using a wrench or screwdriver
This feature is useful for anyone contemplating buying a tool, because it.к. The need to carry a wrench with you everywhere to adjust the saw will disappear. The presence of a device facilitating the start of the engine, an important criterion when choosing a chain saw. Device consists of an additional spring that is installed in the starter chain. The chainsaw models that have this option can be used both by professionals and beginners. For professional tools, there must be a decompression valve. Its main purpose is to reduce the resistance of the engine when starting, which makes it much easier to start.
When I was about 16 years old, my boys and I went to my friend’s dacha. There were 6 of us. The house was wooden, in the classic country style, with a nice porch. Opposite the porch, and consequently the entrance to the house, was the timber storehouse; they were under the roof. I remember that the room where these logs were laying was very deep, and the wood lay by the farthest wall all the way to the ceiling. If you go out at night in winter, and it was just in winter, you could not see the firewood, but only the emptiness and darkness.
They approached slowly and with great apprehension. When they had already reached the shed and the soft snow from the sky had stopped falling on them, they slowed down even more. My friend, who had been standing on the porch from the beginning, decided to reach out and try to catch the light. He very carefully began to raise his hand in front of him and pull it forward.
At the very moment of the apotheosis, the entire village heard such a heart-rending scream of the two boys that it seemed that everyone in all the houses woke up. The occasion for this bundle-shattering cry was me.
Before my friend went out for a smoke that night, I went to the bathroom, which was outside. I quickly got my business done and headed back out, but decided to wrap up by that wood so I could stand there too for a smoke. As soon as I had a smoke, my friend had just gone outside. And so when he reached for my by then already lit cigarette butt, I sharply grabbed his hand with my other hand and pulled it toward me. Oh and yeru was then, a couple of days then they both with me did not talk.