How to lubricate the sprocket on a chainsaw bar

How to grease a chainsaw bar sprocket?

STIHL multipurpose grease can be used. If you don’t want to overpay, it’s better to use a cheaper, but higher-quality version, Lithol grease, otherwise known as Lithol 24.

We recommend you use special lubricants for lubrication. The sprocket bearing is not engaged all the time, but only at idle speed, so it requires periodic lubrication. You can use tire nose grease, such as the standard grease from Repsol or Husqvarna.

Chainsaw chain oil: when to fill and how to choose the right lubricant

All modern chainsaws have a separate oil circuit for the chain lubrication.

lubricate, sprocket, chainsaw

The quality of your saw’s performance depends a lot on their condition and working conditions. That’s why companies that produce chainsaw accessories, create special brands of oil, ensuring reliable lubrication of the surface.

What kind of oil to use?

It’s a widespread belief that high-quality, brand-name chain oil for chainsaws should only be used in a gasoline-oil mixture of the engine. Nevertheless, choosing which oil to use is not a difficult task. Any oil will do, as long as it gets where it’s needed.

But putting grease on the chain is half the battle. It has to stick to the metal and stay on the bottom edge that is used for sawing wood. For this purpose, substances with increased adhesion, that is, the ability to adhere to the surface and stick to it. Oil with poor adhesion will fly off the fast-turning chain, spraying everything around for no good reason. Of course, some will remain, but it is not known if this is enough to keep the chain from overheating during intensive work.

Important! In all-season chainsaw operation, oil supply conditions depend on the season and air temperature.

Mineral materials that provide chain and tire lubrication at plus temperatures will crystallize and thicken in freezing temperatures. This makes it harder to lubricate and increases the load on the oil pump. Its service life is shortened and it can fail prematurely. In winter, choose synthetics with special additives that provide reliable lubrication in cold weather up to.40 ℃. Semi-synthetics are used for low frosts and temperatures around zero.

It is estimated that the use of different chain lubricants for chainsaws can increase the load on the engine by up to 10. The life of the chain and the saw bar is further shortened.

In view of the increased environmental awareness in recent years, brand-name oil products are increasingly being made from degradable substances. But in the long run chain lubrication can consume liters. And for nature-conscious consumers this is all the more reason to choose environmentally friendly products. If you care what you get splashed with and what marks are left on the wood after sawing.

When and how to fill

Where to fill up the chain oil. is clear. There is a separate container for this. In most chain saws the size of this reservoir is calculated on the basis of the volume of the chain saw’s fuel tank. If both tanks are filled to capacity, they are emptied at approximately the same time. That’s why it’s recommended to fill up the full oil reservoir at the same time as filling the fuel tank. Then you won’t have to be distracted by refilling twice.

Before you start, it’s a good idea to check that the oil will flow to the chain. It is sufficient to point the end of the tire on a flat surface. Some of the lubricant will fly off the edge of the bar. Drops of oil on the surface are an indication that the system is functioning correctly.

Summer oil becomes thicker at sub-zero temperatures and its lubricating power is impaired. That is why it is well worthwhile to use winter grades. If this is not possible, it is worth taking the time to dilute the existing oil to reduce its density. Dilute with kerosene at a ratio of 1 to 4.

Some models have an adjustable feed rate in the lubrication system. It is useful for correcting when changing types of grease.

Note! It is not permissible to fill the tank with a mixture of oils. mineral and synthetic.

If you run out of oil from one manufacturer and have the same type but from a different company, it is acceptable to mix them, provided you use them immediately. Do not leave it on for a long time.

Sprocket lubricant

At the end of a chainsaw bar is the sprocket that makes the chain turn. This also needs to be lubricated occasionally. This is where thick materials are used. STIHL multi-purpose grease can be used. Also suitable are lithol-based domestic greases. There is a hole in the bar for greasing the chainwheel. Pump grease into it with a grease nipple or syringe.

Please note that frequent work with the bar nose, e.g. when selecting grooves, will result in higher loads on the sprocket and needs more frequent greasing.

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Main manufacturers

Leading chainsaw manufacturers produce consumables and lubricants for chainsaws, including ones specifically for chains and bars. Other things being equal, preference should be given to the products of the chainsaw manufacturer itself. But the quality of the best brands is such that the use of other manufacturer’s lubricants will not adversely affect the operation.

The best known brands are the German brand STIHL, the Swedish Husqvarna and the Japanese Makita. They provide quite a wide range of adhesion oils, among which are:

  • STIHL ForestPlus mineral oil is designed to operate at temperatures up to.15 ℃. Standard packaging are 1 and 5L. For long-term work, it has recently been available in a 20-liter container;
  • STIHL BioPlus is environmentally friendly, plant-based. Once in the soil, it decomposes quickly without contaminating it. Operating temperature also up to.15 ℃. Packaged in 1 and 3 liters;
  • STIHL SynthPlus is the right semisynthetic oil for low temperatures; Bio Advanced is an improved version that operates in higher temperatures.25 °.
  • Eco-friendly, biodegradable Bio and Bio Advanced. Introduced as a multipurpose multigrade oil. Bio Advanced variant. better oxidation stability and up to 10 % better lubrication properties;
  • Makita. Biotop oil;
  • Champion adhesive oil.

Of the Russian brands specifically for chains is “Zubr ZMPM-M”. There are also other, lesser-known manufacturers, whose lubricating oil is noticeably lower in price.

How to replace expensive oil

The disadvantage of special brand chain lubricants is their high price. It is easy to buy a liter of another expensive oil. And if you have to do jobs that require several liters or even dozens of liters, you’ll probably think of saving. The main thing is not to go to extremes in considering the options. You can save so much money on oil that you have to change the chain and even the tire or the oil pump several times.

Proper lubrication of electric saw, chainsaw or how to prolong the life of the tire.

chain saw electric chainsaw lubrication guide bar how to properly.

In this video you will find instructions on how to care for your Husqvarna chain saw guide bar. A few simple, yet effective steps to help keep your chain saw in good working order

You don’t want to use a chain saw with a faulty guide bar. So at the first sign of trouble you need to shut down the engine and find out what is wrong. Successfully troubleshooting the cause of the failure will help you learn about the design features of the tire and its attachment to your chainsaw.

The bar determines the axis and length of the saw by guiding the chain. But the backbone of the mechanism is still the mount. It is mounted in a groove between the inner plate on the engine body and the outer plate on the chainring body. The bar and housing are bolted together. This part of the mount is called the “engine assembly,” and its shape and design depend on the chainsaw model. The bar holder and separate cover.

The drive links of the saw chain are mounted in a guide groove on the edge of the bar and are coupled to the drive sprocket connected to the PTO. When the locking bolts are loosened, the bar can move. adjust manually or, as on professional chainsaws, automatically. Finally, there is a stop at the front of the bar mount. It serves to keep the saw’s axle firmly fixed when the moving chain comes into contact with the wood.

The chain saw’s drive sprocket design: with a replaceable and fixed crown

A good bar should provide good tensioning of the chain. To check this, release the chain brake and pull the chain in the direction of movement. If the chain won’t move, the fastener is too tight. It should be released a little, then check again the free movement of the chain.

I have read several instructions for different chainsaws, different manufacturers, not a single word about lubrication, although the technological hole on the bar is provided and the Oregon website has instructions about lubrication, but it is not written what to oil (then it mentions “pumping oil” with an oiler, then some kind of lubrication). So I was wondering if the sprocket needs additional lubrication or is the lubrication that comes with the chain sufficient?? and if so, with what? As I understand it, any domestic lithium-based grease will do (lithol, cyatim)?

I usually put TAD17 in it with a hypodermic syringe.

SIM-SIM wrote : or enough chain grease?

The sprocket turns and centrifugal force prevents it from spinning and the bearing needs grease.

BECHA wrote: I usually put TAD17 in it with a medical syringe.

Yurgum wrote : In my opinion grease is better.

Store syringe (Champion) with blue grease press in the window for grease, and twist the sprocket or chain, a little squeezed out by, but the hell with it. The sprocket turns easily. I lubricate when I remove the tire to clean the groove, in general, quite often. ECHO 350 tsumura guide bar. By the way, the sprocket is not individually lubricated.

I do not understand why it is not written in the instruction manual.

They have a consumable sales plan to meet

sledoput wrote: They have to fulfill their plan to sell consumables

You wouldn’t have said anything about chain oil

In the manual, it says to grease the sprocket with a little oil and a little grease.

I work an hour with a regular oil can, pour motor oil or chain oil through the hole in the tire and twist the sprocket until the excess is poured.

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kranovod wrote: I pour motor oil or chain oil from a regular oil can through the hole in the tire and twist the sprocket until the excess comes out.

1 I used a syringe. The oil is the same as for the chain (I use the usual M8B). Lubricate vigorously (until it leaks), rotate sprocket Lubricate every time you clean the tire. Worked for a day. took the tire off (cleaned/lubricated the sprocket. chamfered the edge). put the tire back on. put the second chain. Next day all the same, but chain number one. The tire is enough for 2 sets of chains (4 pcs.). In 5 years, using the “right” tires and chains, no issues.

Don’t rush to throw out the stretched chains at once (they are valuable fur ) they can still “fit” on a new tire, and especially on a new tire drive sprocket

I STRONGLY DO NOT RECOMMEND undercutting the bar groove (to tension the saw chain). IT IS NOT WORTH SEVERING/DAMAGED LIMBS AND OTHER BODY PARTS.

You have to syringe it. In an extreme case (if you have no grease gun and you have to work) just dip the end of the bar in oil. STIHL chain saws are an exception: they do not even have this feature! Lubrication is done with chain oil.

Stretched chains, you can shorten, just remember what size it was originally 🙂

Master House wrote: Stretched chain can be shortened, the main thing is not to forget what size it was originally 🙂

From my experience: shortening a chain by 1 tooth causes increased wear of the drive sprocket (here “economy is questionable”) shortening by 2 teeth has not tried

Master House wrote: Except for STIHL chain saws, they don’t even have this option! Lubrication is done with chain oil.

Master House wrote : Stretched chains, you can shorten, the main thing is not to forget what size was originally 🙂


The Stilevs really don’t lubricate. No hole at all. And here’s to stretching chains. It’s. Uh. No, of course, if the customer wants it shorter. You remove one drive link, no more. If it still doesn’t have enough tension, it’s better to throw it away. And you don’t want to put on a new drive sprocket. If we want to finish it, we’ll do it on the old one. In general, long-term operation with a worn drive sprocket leads to breakage of the right crankshaft bearing. The bearing of a 180 Stihl doesn’t break, it rips the motor from the body of the saw. All in all, nothing good is going to happen anyway.

lubricate, sprocket, chainsaw

Adhesive oil manufacturers

Almost all chainsaw manufacturers, are engaged in production of consumables for them, explaining it by the fact that this production is the most suitable for using together with their saws. How much it is true there is no information, but proceeding from experience of maintenance and repair of chain saws, it is possible to note, that there are no essential differences in service life of details or at least in visible wear.

But a fact is a fact, the manufacturers recommend and there is no hiding it. So back to the manufacturers, starting with the popular STIHL brand.

STIHL adhesive oils

The following adhesion oils are available on the company’s website, designed for different operating temperatures and with a good lubrication index:

  • ForestPlus adhesive oil. recommended for temperatures down to.15 °C, shelf life 3 years if stored correctly. It comes in a liter or five-liter containers;
  • BioPlus. it features a vegetable base that allows it to decompose rapidly in the soil. It is used up to minus 15, comes in three, five and one-liter containers;
  • The last one, SynthPlus, is characterized by the ability to keep its performance in temperatures down to minus 25° C.

Husqvarna oils

The company offers its customers Husqvarna Bio Advanced oil for normal and extreme conditions. The oil is made from plant components and is safe for the environment, comes in liter and five-liter containers.

As economical solution, the company offers Vegoil oil, which, according to the manufacturer, reduces consumption by 40% compared to other oils. Comes in a liter container.

The company also makes a bearing grease that it recommends for lubricating the bearings of the drive sprocket and sprocket on the saw bar.

Less common, but popular with chainsaw owners, are:

  • Polar Lube mineral oil by Oleo-Mac;
  • Adhesive Champion, sold in containers of up to 10 liters, which is convenient for use in forestry;
  • Makita Biotop;
  • Enkor.

To learn more about some of the chain oils see the video below, in which a sales representative of a large tool chain commented on the use of adhesive oils from different manufacturers.

Technical specifications

The tool weighs 6.1 kg and features compact overall dimensions, easy access to adjusting points and filler necks. The saw is equipped with a carbureted two-stroke engine that runs on a 50:1 mixture of high-octane gasoline and engine oil. 70,7 cm3 power unit develops the capacity of 3,9 kW in the working regime.

  • The fuel mix used in 2-stroke engines is prepared with a certain amount of oil and gasoline;
  • flexible traction characteristics;
  • fuel economy in the range of 1.9 l / h fuel consumption;
  • increased torque reserve;
  • easy-start system;
  • Long operating time without loss of cooling time;. Extended use of Husqvarna Bio Advanced.

Autonomous operation of the saw is ensured by a 771 ml fuel reserve in the internal tank.

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Manufacturer Husqvarna
Production (assembly) Sweden
Brand Home Sweden
Saw class Professional
Power, l.с. (kW) 5,27 (3,9)
Engine capacity, cm3 70,7
Chain pitch, inch 3/8
Chain thickness, mm 1,5
Number of chains, pcs 68
Fuel tank capacity, l 0,77
Volume of oil tank, l 0,4
Tire length, cm (inches) 45 (18)
Warranty, years 1
Weight, kg 6,1
Instruction Download from

Chainsaw chain lubrication system

To supply oil for chainsaw chain lubrication, the tool uses a special pump that doses lubricant to the saw bar according to the number of engine revolutions.

The system uses chain oil, which has increased adhesive properties, to spread the oil evenly over the entire circumference of the bar and retain it even at high chain revolutions. Let’s have a closer look at the lubrication system of modern chainsaws.

How to determine the ratio of gasoline to oil

The fuel mixture used in 2-stroke engines is made from a certain amount of oil and gasoline. The latter must have an octane rating of at least 90 and be unleaded. The best type of fuel for this purpose is AI-92.

Gasoline with an octane number of 95 is not recommended, because it contains many different additives that are harmful to two-stroke engines.

To prepare the mixture, it is necessary to use only motor oil from well-known manufacturers. Lubricant should be designed for high-speed engines with an air cooling system. This component, intended for low-speed engines (mopeds, motorcycles, snowmobiles), must not be used.

When preparing the mixture, it is required to observe strictly the proportion of petrol and oil. As a rule, it is 1:50, that is, you need to take 100 ml of oil and dilute it in 5 liters of gasoline. This rule is slightly different, if the engine or piston system is new, and a running-in period is required. In this case oil to gasoline ratio can be 1:40. For the running-in period it is necessary to fill the unit 2 or 3 full loads of fuel mixture with this ratio. If to dilute the fuel mixture in the ratio 1:30, then there is inevitable formation of soot on the piston and inside the cylinder, which, as already mentioned, leads to failure of the entire crank mechanism.

The table below is a quick guide to the petrol-oil ratio if you have large quantities of fuel mixture to prepare.

chain saw sprocket lubricant

To extend the service life and to reduce the friction on the drive sprocket, the manufacturer has equipped the mechanism with a needle bearing which requires periodic lubrication. STIHL multipurpose grease can be used for lubrication.

If you do not want to overpay, it is better to use an inexpensive, but no less high-quality option, Lithol or Lithol 24 grease. Because of its viscosity, Lithol has no problem replacing the original.

Chainsaw bar sprocket can be lubricated with the same lubricants as drive sprocket using special grease gun. This allows grease to be pressed through the holes in the bar to the sprocket bearing.

Change the chain, sprocket and guide bar regularly

The tire is the least likely to need changing. You usually have to change the sprocket twice and the bar once for every four chains. And a new chain that is mounted on the sprocket will wear out a little faster. That’s why it’s a good idea to always have two chains with the saw and to put them in alternately as the next sharpening is needed.

From time to time, turn the bar and check the sprocket

Most saws also have a chain sprocket that needs to be lubricated. You should check the instructions for use with the sprocket. This is usually done with special grease and a grease nipple or syringe, pumping the grease in through a hole in the chain.

It is a good idea to rotate the tire itself periodically so that the upper and lower lips wear evenly. This increases the service life of the chain.

Watch chain tension

The chain must not be too tight or slack, otherwise it will cause premature wear of sprockets, clutch, and chain breakage. In addition, the load on the guide bar pins will increase.

To check chain tension, the saw should be placed on the floor and the chain pulled by the bar in the center. The chain should pull away from the bar by 2-4 mm, or about halfway down the bottom of the tooth.

It’s also important to remember that the chain pulls out a little during operation because of heat.

Design problems, differences between different models

Brand-name chainsaws have a special design that makes it impossible to replace a worn actuator without dismantling the clutch and other parts of the chainsaw. That means the saw has to be almost completely disassembled. modern models of expensive chainsaws are always equipped with a special wrench.

Also the chain saw owner might face the following nuance: on Chinese imported chain saws or electric saws the sprocket on the clutch mechanism might be located in an unusual way. On older models, when the teeth of the chain wear out, it is necessary to unscrew and replace the drum, one-piece with the drive. On newer models it is possible to replace the sprocket separately.

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