How to make a bed for a manual circular saw

Making a table for a circular saw with his hands. instructions and assembly

Circular saw. a convenient and productive tool for construction works, with high performance and maneuverability. But when sawing large batches of lumber, it is quite difficult to work with a powerful circular saw. Significantly facilitate this task can be a table for a circular saw, made with their own hands.

Table for circular saw with your own hands

Easy to build table can be made of plywood and planks. Manual circular saw in this case is installed from the bottom of the table top, and its toothed disk is located in the slot of the table top. After turning on the saw blade starts rotating and sawing starts as the saw feeds into the material. Maximum thickness of the material to be cut depends on the size of the disc and the power of the saw. When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the table top, to which the saw is fixed from below.

Arrangement of the working table

The design of the table for a manual circular saw is so elementary that most specialists produce it without preparatory drawings and techniques. This is a solid workbench, which is created from wood and plywood.

The most durable table bases are made of alloy. they are the heaviest and require welder skills. That’s why the stands are often made of leftover lumber. Circular saw is fastened under the table top and the storage unit protrudes over it through a specially made slit. The lumber is pushed along the table cover and sawn with the saw blade. For convenience and correctness of work the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

Tabletop “absorbs” a part of the working plane of the disk, the depth of cut will be reduced by the thickness of the tabletop. For this reason, it is preferable to choose a circular saw with the largest disk diameter and a thin but rigid table cover.

If you have not yet bought an electric saw, choose modifications with high power (from 1200 watts). They can handle large wood cuts. Holes will be drilled to secure the base. The solid wood base may break. For this reason, it is desirable to choose a mechanism of another type.

Compact desktop machine

Above it was mentioned how to assemble a manual circular saw. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary. This process involves making a U-shaped bed from a pipe and fitting a cross-arm. The lower ends of the structure should bend horizontally in the direction of the saw. They are bolted to the table. Stability is ensured by additional supports.

Arm mobility is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two identical parts that are fastened to each other with clamps. The saw blade is attached to the vertical element of the bed with clamps.

You will need

To one edge of the furniture rectangular board across the width glue a proportional wooden bar with PVA glue.

Drill four holes on the back side of the board over the beam, countersink them for countersunk screw heads and screw them in with the drill.

On all corners of the base without going beyond dimensions we glue small squares from the same furniture board and fix them with countersunk screws.

To the second wing we screw the disk saw sole with screws, washers and nuts, using a manual screwdriver and wrench.

On the side of the outside surface of the timber roughly under the center of the mortise hinge we screw in a screw, to which and to the bracket on the saw body we connect the compression spring that will return and hold the saw in top position.

Regularly fix the saw blade on the saw, checking its verticality with a square. Make a groove in the base of the saw blade for it to get out when sawing workpieces.

For a while we take off the saw and we try on a square bar with the rounded end that will be fastened crosswise to a groove at its beginning on the left. Use a drill on the rounded end of the beam to drill a through hole and go deep into the base material. Make the hole in the base a little wider and deeper, put a nut over it, and drive in the hardware with a suitable screw and hammer. To keep it better in the socket, we soak the boundary between the nut and the base material with superglue. Insert the wing bolt into the hole in the timber and screw it into the nut. Using a square, align the bar so that it forms a right angle to the groove for the disk. Mark this position on the base and fix it with the wing bolt.

make, manual, circular

From the other edge of the timber we also drill a through hole, leaving a drill mark on the base. After that, unscrew the bolt and remove the bar. Complete the drill mark on the base and fasten the nut, just as we did the first time. Put the bar in place and fasten it with two wing bolts. Mark the place where you cut the bar on the edge of the base, remove it and shorten, then reinstall it in place and fasten it only with a bolt closer to the groove.Rotate the bar around the bolt by 45 degrees with a ruler-transporter. Fix it in this position and through the hole at the other end of the bar, make a mark with a drill on the base.

We displace the bar to the side and, just like in the previous cases, prepare an indentation for the nut and fix it in the blind hole. Put the beam back in its second position and fix it with another wing bolt. Paint the details of the obtained construction in two colors, according to the system, using construction adhesive tape, so that the boundaries between the colors would be clear.

Put the blade and the block that sets the cutting angles on the saw, and our redesigned circular saw is ready for use. Now we can saw wood and metal workpieces quickly and accurately at right angles and 45 degrees.

Materials and tools for work

The table for the circular saw requires the mandatory presence of guides, which will ensure greater accuracy of cutting materials. The guide rails are welded from a metal angle. Clamps are usually used for fixing to the table top. It is not recommended to make the guides stationary. It will be more convenient if in the future you can change their position.

Prepare the materials for self-assembly of the table:

  • Plywood. If you want, you can use a different material for the table top.
  • Metal sheet.
  • Board 50×50 mm.
  • Board 50×100 mm.
  • Screw clamps in a quantity of 2 pcs.
  • Metal angles for making the rails.

Assemble all the necessary tools beforehand:

  • Hacksaw. If possible you should use an electric jigsaw instead.
  • Electric screwdriver.
  • Electric drill.
  • Manual milling machine. If not available, you can do without them.
  • Measuring tape and ruler.
  • Angle.

After preparing all the tools and materials you can begin assembling the homemade table. Some craftsmen use old dining room and kitchen tables for this. But do not count on the great durability of such products. It is better to make everything yourself, “from scratch. In this way you can assemble a handy table that fully meets your needs and requirements.

The necessary tools

In addition to materials, the following tools should also be prepared.

  • a pencil and a marker;
  • measuring tools, including a meter and a tape measure;
  • jigsaw;
  • hand router;
  • grinder;
  • sandpaper (should have a medium or fine grit);
  • planer and drill;
  • electric screwdriver.

Prepare everything in advance and keep it handy throughout the process.

A “circular saw from a circular saw

Among self-taught carpenters, it is believed that the transformation of a manual circular saw into a machine tool is the easiest method of obtaining “three birds” at once, namely:

  • high quality of cut, guaranteed by high revolutions of the saw;
  • a shaft mounted in a collector motor on bearings, with honor to withstand the radial load;
  • the ideal (cantilevered) mounting of the disk, it enables relatively fast changing of the cutting tool, so there is no need to disassemble the circular saw.

The main advantage of making this machine is the “native” motor, which guarantees maximum performance thanks to the ideal torque, optimal rpm. Other advantages of this solution:

  • Relatively simple locking system that allows you to dismount the saw quickly in case of great need.
  • Powerful motor for long life due to its ability to withstand considerable loads.
  • A normal thermal environment, guaranteed by the forced ventilation of this hand tool.
  • Possibility to obtain sufficient cutting depth by using large-diameter blades. 60-75 mm is the value that gives a good chance to make high-quality blanks for different products manufactured at home.

Bed and table top

Modification of manual saw into a circular saw machine begins with making a table (or housing-box), on the back side of which later will be attached hand-held power tool in such a way that over the surface of the tabletop protrudes part of the cutting edge.

The shape and size of the table is chosen, focusing on the size of the future lumber. If you plan to make small billets, then 1500 mm in length and 600-700 mm in width will be enough. For the manufacture of the bed of the circular saw is suitable steel angle, which has a width of the shelf equal to 25-30 mm. The top and bottom of the structure is strengthened by spacers, made from the same angle or rebar. This variant is optimal to give the frame of the machine maximum rigidity.

For the tabletop often choose laminated chipboard or OSB, some masters stop at plywood, the thickness of this material. 15-20 mm, but you can take a thinner material, and then join together 2 sheets. The elements that make up the table top do not necessarily have to be the same size, have a symmetrical arrangement relative to the bed. The main thing is that the construction is not threatened by the risk of overturning.

Make a notch in the tabletop, designed for extending the blade. The part of the table surface that will be adjacent to the cutting tool is often covered with tin, metal sheet (aluminum, steel), textolite or plastic. This solution makes it possible to maximally facilitate the movement of the wooden lumber.

Modification of the saw control

These operations can only be performed if the tool is out of warranty. For the convenience of controlling the circular saw, the contacts of the button and the knob (lever) are led to an external electrical switch that is mounted on the body in a convenient location, but where accidental pressing is completely excluded.

If the owner foresees the possibility of removing hand tools from time to time in the future, the contacts are fixed with tape or clamp. The cord of the circular saw is then plugged into a carrying system with an on/off button.

Guide rail

It is necessary for precise cutting of material of different widths, so this ruler (stop) must be able to move parallel to the cutting edge. Such an element is also made of steel angle. Make slots in the tabletop, where the ends of the guide rail are fastened with screws.

A simpler variant is the pine board. Its width is 40 mm, its length is 200 mm more than that of the table. First, nuts are pressed into the lower part of the protruding edges, and L-shaped hooks are fixed with screws. Once the board has been positioned on the worktop of the circular saw, they are tightened with screws, thanks to which the hooks are raised and the ruler is firmly fixed. And you can just as easily reposition it to any position.

Hand-held with guide rail

Deep and “long” sawing is not often necessary for the home craftsman, and the manual circular saw is a useful thing in itself. In addition, a hand-held circular saw with a guide rail can cut wood both crosswise and lengthwise, and at any angle. And the cutting length of up to 1,5-2 m is quite enough for almost all finishing work and creative work.

There are enough laths for manual circular saws on sale, and they cost not expensive, but there is no universal one. The construction principle of the proprietary ratchet is illustrated in Fig.saw’s bottom plate (shoe) is manufactured with a longitudinal groove and the guide bar is stamped with a longitudinal groove. the ridge (shown with the arrow in Fig.).

Using a hand-held circular saw with a guide rail

make, manual, circular

easy to operate: the tool only needs to be pressed from above, and will not move sideways or tilt. And in the course of competition is also convenient: we make our saws so that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.

It’s a pain in the ass. you can’t find a cheaper guide bar. A circular saw with a groove for the guide is disproportionately expensive compared to the same, but with a smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: a guide rail with a groove made of laminated plywood, and to the shoe mount a pair of bosses (pos. 2b on the big rice. at the beginning). But for this, first of all, you need a milling table for wood, which must still make (not easy) or buy (at a high cost). Secondly, the already small depth of cut is reduced by 16-20 mm. Thirdly, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe burns out the warranty. Fourth, if the saw is a rented one, it must not be reworked.

There is another way, but the tool in the work will need to be held in 3 planes: hold, from leaving sideways and from turning. The plywood base of the guide can then be thinner, 6-8 mm. The actual workbench will be a straight bar fastened to it (or a piece of steel angle, etc).п.), cm. trace. Figure.:

How to make a guide for a manual circular saw

“Adjustment” of the device is reduced to the fact that the circular saw simply cuts off the excess from the base. It is fastened to the board / sheet of material with screw clamps, just like a proprietary guide. When working on the workbench, spacers a little bit thicker than that of the material are put under the base; the depth of cut corresponds to the thickness of the material. decreases.

table for manual circular saw

There are many designs of homemade sawing tables for manual circular saws, but most of them are the fruit of creative search and/or self-expression. However, they are quite workable. However, the optimum variants for those, who have not to show and make it, but work on it, are looked through quite clearly.

This is the hinged saw table for the hand-held circular saw (left in Fig.). Tabletop. laminated plywood 12 mm and more; 400 mm high rezers. furniture laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. Making cross-bars from boards is undesirable, you will not get the needed table rigidity. table top overhangs. 30-60 mm.

Construction of sawing table for hand circular saw

The construction of the circular tabletop is shown on the right in Fig. The through slots for the exit of the circular saw blade (it is possible to cut one slot with width of 6-10 mm). No particular precision is required, t.к. stop (see pic. below) is set for sawing on the saw blade. The tabletop dimensions can be adjusted to any size (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Locking in the working position (knot C in fig.). M8 screws with wing nuts. Rotating Assembly (pos. B). a piece of pipe (can be plastic). Its fastening to the table top. you can do it with countersunk head screws through the through holes.

Instead of loops. L-shaped pieces of rod D8; a small backlash in the tube on the quality of sawing is not affected. Each “hinge” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. The long “G” sticks are threaded and fastened in the cylinder by pairs of nuts with split washers. Fixing holes in the tsarga is better to mark on the spot, having inserted the “hinges” in the tube and having laid the table top on the base.

Make a solid slide stop for the workpiece, as in pos. 3b in the big picture. in the beginning, not necessarily. Its (stop) is better to make from a piece of steel angle of 40×40, cutting off the vertical flange as shown here in Fig. (rear view).

Design of a sliding stop from steel angle for a homemade circular table

Such stop is fastened to the table top with clamps, and you must verify its parallelism to the saw blade in any case; it is done by means of a metal-square with millimeter marks.

Tool fastening

Fastening of the hand-held circular saw in the sawing table with

The circular saw is attached to the edge of the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is not under warranty and the loss of depth of cut is unessential, it is necessary to drill 4 holes D8 in the saw shoe and fix it by the through countersunk head screws. It is highly desirable to put 1-2 mm rubber (e.g. plastic glue) between the shoe and the table top., of a camera), the quality of the cut will improve noticeably by damping the vibrations of the tool. If it is necessary to minimize cutting depth loss, a through cut-out is made in the table top for the saw shoe, the saw is fixed to the steel sheet of 3-6 mm thickness, and it is fixed in the rectangular dimple on the front (working) surface of the table top (see table top). fig. left). But the hole will have to choose a hand router for wood, chisel exactly flush will not work.

If the tool is under warranty or rental, cutting depth loss is unavoidable, t.к. it is not allowed to drill a hole in the saw shoe. For such a case there is a variant of the clamping of the saw (see “Clamping of the saw”). trace. Figure.). Not suitable for regular work in large quantities, but you can make it quickly and a day or two evenly sawing will get.

Attaching a hand held circular saw to a saw table with minimal loss of depth of cut

Note: about the options for self-made sawing tables based on handheld circular saws see video; stationary in the workshop:

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