How to make a carriage for circular. Marking the corners of the carriage

Homemade carriage for circular

To just cut the tree on kindling or make longitudinal profiles for lining or construction in a home workshop. One stationary “circular” will be quite enough for the master. If he needs to make a number of more serious carpentry manipulations and make a more accurate cut, straight or with corners. He uses a carriage.

This tool is a clamp moving along special “slopes” for wooden blanks or blanks, which, with the help of small tips, will easily make each master for himself.

The nuances at work

Useful functions

What else will be useful to have at hand to the master:

  • Breaking knife. Retains the integrity of the disk, prevents its pinching.
  • Vacuum cleaner to remove sawdust during work in a special container. Such a vacuum cleaner is cleaned by both the section of the cut itself and the air in the room. The tool is connected to the saw through the adapter.
  • An elevator (or simply-an elevator) for raising a milling cutter to the desired height.
  • The pointer in the saw case helps to make more accurate cuts.
  • Lighting: the presence of a backlight in the circular allows you to use it in any room, even rather dark.
  • Rubber handles so that the sawing tool is reliably sitting in the hand.

Before starting to work with a carriage made, it is necessary to test it with a circular unit and a sala to it can be of different appearance and purpose. The design of the spiked guide has a complex manufacturing scheme and is not available to every master. However, the described instruction of a wooden carriage is understandable and can be repeated quite quickly and without specific tools.

Other species

If the plywood tire for some reason does not satisfy your requirements, you can make a more complex design guide. Below are a few more examples of guides for a manual circular, which everyone can do with their own hands.

Aluminum profile tire

Such a tire differs from a simple plywood in that a P-shaped aluminum profile is installed in the guide gap. Its advantage is that the stiffness of aluminum slightly increases the accuracy of the cut.

For a better sliding saw on the tire, you can attach not a thick plywood as limiters to the guide of the sole, but a couple of cylinders of a suitable height of fluoroplast or other material with a low friction coefficient.

Line from the construction rule

There are long aluminum rules that are used by finishing walls to align the walls. For the manufacture of a guide line with your own hands, rules are suitable, the design of which provides for a guttural for free movement of the handles.

The main advantage of such a line is the absence of elements protruding above the surface of the workbench. To do this, you need to take two collapsible clamps and slightly upgrade them.

The handles are removed from the rule, and their upper parts, which are replaced by polypropylene or fluoroplastic inserts, are removed from the stripes. The profile of these inserts should be T-shaped so that they can be established by a wide part of the Rules and hold there and hold there.

The result is a ruler that is attached to the workbench only by the lower part. This will allow you to freely move the saw in the working area, without fear of catching up for something.

However, such a tool cannot be called a full.Fledged bus. This is precisely the line that needs to be configured before each rez.

Rail knock

This device is more often used for transverse cut (ending) of the material.

Usually it consists of two parallel metal corners, the ends of which are rigidly fixed on a plywood or metal base.

Through the corners, as on rails, the saw platform freely moves.

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The corners are attached using bolts or studs, which, in addition, are used to adjust the height of the “rails” relative to the base. The height should be such that the cut material passes freely under the corners.

So that the movement of the saw is more smooth, the corners on the inside can be glued with a high sliding coefficient. For even more smooth movement, you can install the sole of the saw on the platform with metal wheels.

Remanding carriage on bearings

The circular on the remote carriage is more similar to a stationary format-disk machine. This design has high stability, and, accordingly, provides high cutting accuracy.

The remote carriage is made of a metal I.Beam, which is firmly attached to the lower plane to the workbench. The carriage itself is moved along the upper plane. A platform, the lower edges of which are bent inside the offspring and equipped with bearings, allowing it to slide freely. The same bearings, tightly pressed to the axis of the I.Beam, exclude the side backlash of the carriage.

Parallel to the carriage on the remote guide is attached to the sole of the saw. The guide can be made of two parallel corners or pipes. Thus, moving the sole of the saw, you can configure the size of the cut of the material.

This design is good in that the supporting saw platform adjacent directly to the workpiece, which means that the cut depth does not decrease.

Advantages and disadvantages of a home.Made carriage for circular

When creating a carriage for the circular, you can:

  • Achieve optimal sizes.
  • Change the standard appearance, for example, make a radius carriage for curved shapes.
  • Choose suitable materials: aluminum, wood, profiles, etc.D.
  • Save. Use the tools available at hand.

However, if you make a guide yourself, a number of difficulties will appear. In particular, it is necessary to have appropriate knowledge about the process, to acquire specific tools for work, which may not be at the unprofessional joiner.

Carriages are divided into manual and stationary, amateur and professional

Advantages and disadvantages of a home.Made carriage for circular

When creating a carriage for the circular, you can:

  • Achieve optimal sizes.
  • Change the standard appearance, for example, make a radius carriage for curved shapes.
  • Choose suitable materials: aluminum, wood, profiles, etc.D.
  • Save. Use the tools available at hand.

However, if you make a guide yourself, a number of difficulties will appear. In particular, it is necessary to have appropriate knowledge about the process, to acquire specific tools for work, which may not be at the unprofessional joiner.

Carriages are divided into manual and stationary, amateur and professional

How to make a moving carriage for circular with your own hands

The easiest version of the slide is shown on the following

Step.By.Step manufacturing instructions

The manufacture of such simple options is carried out according to the following sequence.

Size calculation

They must correspond to the size of the desktop, taking into account the size of the workpieces that will saw. Small blanks require a small area, and vice versa. In the given video, the sluts are much wider than the desktop, additional supports are used.

The choice of material

The material that is at hand is used, or on sale at an affordable price.

make, carriage, circular, marking, corners
  • Desktop.
  • Speaking the material on a movable table with an electrician, manual or electric saw, angular grinder, etc.D.
  • Froze the guide bars (corners, profile) on longitudinal and rear transverse stops.
  • Speaking guides along the length.
  • Assembly. At the same time, the main thing is that the guides on both sides are strictly parallel to the disk. The following order is withstanded for this: one guide is screwed, the sluts are put in place. The second guide is screwed by the actual location of the slider. Then, a salael is drunk with the desktop under the disc. At the same time, the sling simply move towards the working disk. If a table is made of metal, it is cut through the metal disk according to the marking.
  • Installation of the rear stubborn block.

In the variant shown on the video, a lateral emphasis is used as a regulator of the width of the cut-a simple P-shaped metal profile on a clamp.

In the photo, the side guides are made in another way.

Here they are not attached from the sides of the motionless table, but are located below. At the bottom of the slide, the sliders are attached, there are grooves on the stationary desktop under the slider.

This option is less prone to skew and jamming.

Homemade sluts with factory linear guides, having sliding bearings, are completely deprived of such a shortage. They are installed on the side of the fixed table, on a special bed. A mobile desktop can take place both on top of a motionless and at the same level, both on factory manufacturing machines. At the same time, the distance from the rolling table to the saw disc should be minimal.

Necessary materials and tools

For the manufacture of simple slides, such as shown in the video, it is required:

Leaf material. The desktop can be made of different materials:

  • Plywood with a thickness of 10 mm and above;
  • Aluminum with a thickness of 5-10 mm;
  • Black metal with a thickness of 3-5 mm (the larger the area, the thicker that it does not bend), but this is heavy material;
  • Any other inflexible and not fragile, rather strong materials (textitis, fiberglass, plastics with suitable properties, OSB, etc.D.);
  • A bar for fixing the workpiece on the top of the table;
  • Emphasis for limiting the width of the workpiece (corner on the clamp, bar on self.Tapping screws, etc.D.).

Directors can be made of different materials: bars of dry solid wood, furniture woody plate, metal corners, a special profile for the guide factory manufacturing, including with bearings.

The manufacturing tool is used different, depending on the presence of it in the master and the material. For example, you can saw the material with a hand hacksaw, a file for metal, a cutting disk angular grinder, a disk electric saw, a saber’s saw, an electrician.

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You can tighten screws with an electric screwdriver, an electric drill with a speed regulator, a hand screwdriver, etc.D.

In principle, the design is happy simple and does not require any too detailed step.By.Step instructions.

Devices for multifunctional tools

Beginning masters doubt that with the help of a manual mechanical tool you can make a cut in a straight line. This is true, if you cut it by marking, but you can facilitate the work using a purchased or home.Made guide device,

Manual woodworking tools, especially the modern design, sometimes amaze with the number of auxiliary devices that help in performing the sawing of the material. The simplest auxiliary device is an ordinary emphasis on the basis of a saw with a line indicator along which the cut will pass.

The most popular addition is a short guide with an adjustable extension length. Complex designs have a movie on such a guide so that when in contact with the edge of the material, the movement of the saw is not inhibited.

Sometimes indicate indicators showing laser cutting lines and other devices that have the same disadvantages. All these mechanisms serve as information that the saw disk went beyond the fishing line for the trimmer of the cut. All simple mechanisms indicate the inaccuracy of the sawing.

Why then all these systems that do not allow an amateur to perform a simple incision? Where is the error of this approach? All well.Known woodworking machines for professional processing of wood have a parallel clamping device for constant pressing of the processed material and hard blocking. Often this emphasis moves. For professional tools on sale there is a guide tire for the Interskol manual circular saw, which can be used for another overhead mechanism.

Then the tremor in the muscles of the forearm does not affect the direction of the cut, because it is controlled. Someone will say that surgeons do not use stops and know how to do complex and accurate operations. Probably it is, but their material is more susceptible to mechanical processing, and perfectly straight lines do not matter.

To reduce the cost of purchasing a guide tire for a circular saw, it can be done with your own hands. Thanks to this homemade, the only thing that will need to be worried about the cutting process is reliably pressing the saw until it stops and slowly move it forward. The materials necessary for manufacturing, devices are found in every workshop.

For example, at the panel from thick.Layer plywood, the width should be greater than the base of the base of the saw, five centimeters. The length depends on the blanks that you have to cut. Optimal dimensions:

The stubborn bar should be the same length as the length of the guide device. The width should provide reliable gluing with the surface of the panel. At least 3 cm or even much wider. Planck height of at least 12 mm. The optimal size of the stop: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.

One remark when choosing a rail in a supermarket. It should have one thin side of even. How to check it? Put a rail on an even table and check if there is a bulge or gap. It is this even surface of the rail that will provide a straight line for a trimmer cutting.

When all the materials are collected, you can start making a parallel stop for a circular saw with your own hands. First you need to measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel towards its long part. Add some 3 cm to the result. This size will serve for an axial line removed from the edge by 2 cm.

Then measure the width of the base of the saw and draw a second fishing line for a trimmer. This size is needed to allocate a saw area. The space between the lines is indicated with a pencil so that it does not doubt that this area is turned off from work and is intended only for the movement of the saw. When all sizes are drawn, start the installation of the rails:

  • Spread the rail with glue and attach along the second line designed to stop.
  • Press with clamps to ensure reliable gluing.
  • Leave for 12 hours so that the glue gains complete strength.

When everything is reliably fixed, it is necessary to calibrate the device, making the first incision. To do this, install the saw until it stops, trying to make the edge of the saw base is evenly pressed to the bar and even cut along the tire. It is this first section on a stubborn guide that will calibrate the device for further operation.

When the emphasis is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. On the material that needs to be cut, marked a fishing line for a cutting trimmer. Lay the brand new guide along this line so that the working edge lay on the line. The saw will cut off the material exactly in this place.

Having carefully fitting and making sure that on the other side of the cut material there is no countertop, the saw is closely pressed to the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the required size of the material. During sawing, you need to slightly press the saw to the device and to the surface of the stop. This will provide a direct cut. It is necessary to move it smoothly and evenly. As a result, you get a flat fishing line for a cutting trimmer. When using a device for a manual circular saw, two interesting facts should be noted:

  • Firstly, the soft material will not crumble during cutting.
  • Secondly, the guide provides additional protection against the zabrin of the edge of the cut material due to trembling of the hand and uneven movement of the saw.

There will always be a place for a home.Made end saw from a hand circular in the home workshop of the joiner. For its manufacture, you need to have a home.Made lineing ruler and carriage for a circular saw.

For the manufacture of the ruler, you will need several pieces of twelve.Millimeter plywood and a metal profile of 10×20 millimeters. Ruler length. 1.5 meters. Using a cutter with a diameter of 20 millimeters, a groove is milling to install the profile over the entire length of the device. The profile is fixed with screws. In parallel of the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters, a stiffness rib is fixed.

How to make a table for a circular saw ⁠

In the last post about remaking the circular saw @dvadebila, I asked me to show how I built the saw on the table, and judging by the number of added subscribers, this is still interesting to someone, so Pilya Pilya.

make, carriage, circular, marking, corners

A countertop of 18mm plywood size 1100x750mm.

Leroy steel legs, 4 rotary wheels for light movement around the workshop, two of them with a stop. Along the perimeter, the countertop is strengthened by a steel profile pipe 20x40x2, it would have to be boiled in good way, but I think it will be normal.

The place under the sole of the saw was milling into a depth of about half the thickness of the countertop, at first he praised too deeply and when dripping the plywood disk was noticeably bent inside, I had to paste a piece of 4mm plywood into the deepening and leveing ​​its surface with a milling machine.

The saw is attached to the countertop with three presses consisting of a 4mm steel strip, a plastic furniture leg with M6 thread and M8 bolt with an internal hexagon. Squeezing bolts are screwed into threaded bushings twisted into the countertop. In order not to look for a key to unscrewing the bolts each time, I bought a separate key and made a leather for him on the button.

This is how the saw is attached to the table, pressed at three points enough. Despite the fact that the place for the sole was milled to the same depth throughout the area, so that the saw disk was perpendicular to the table, I had to glue several layers of masking tape under the sole on one side.

The parallel emphasis was made from a square aluminum profile of 30x30mm, a steel line for greater wear resistance is glued from the disk and so that the boards are easier to slip during the cut.

In the countertop, two parallel grooves for the carriage are professional, an anodized aluminum profile 10x15mm is fixed inside small screws.

Made a carriage for transverse cuts. Base. Plywood 8mm, back and front oak boards screwed to the faner with self.Tapping screws.

For the cut of long blanks, made an additional table, which is attached to the back of the main.

It is made of the same plywood and a profile pipe as the main table.

The leg is made of oak, leaning back on an ordinary loop.

The table is attached with two M10 bolts, a pair of nuts with a lock ring is wound to limit the depth.

The table can be installed in three different positions (under the different width of the sawn boards), for this, 3 pairs of holes were drilled in the profile pipe of the table.

This is how everything looks in a collected state.

There is a chosen undead on anor Londo. Sees. The Sundduce is worth it. Opened it and you died⁠ ⁠

How I made a mimicgraphy chest how much photos are inside.

make, carriage, circular, marking, corners

A few years ago, I had a desire to make a mimic chest from Dark Souls. Unlike many other sudden wisdoms, the idea to put together a chest did not disappear, but on the contrary, over time, strengthened in my head. I must say that the carpenter is still. If with artistic skills I can at the very least visualize the plan, draw and mark, then collect them tightly and competently, this is not about me. I will turn off half the material, pour everything with glue and paint, and at the end of the wobble into the finger of a nail, bending the last. On the other hand, it is new to me and interesting.

To understand how it was done, I turned the entire Internet in search of normal references on which you can remove measurements from the chest. I do not know how to pull out models from the game, so I did by eye. Drawing an approximate design, took the missing tools, drove into the construction and rushed.

I had two sheets of plywood, a dick cloud of nails, 10 profiles made of pine, two putty packages, 350 ml PVA carpentry, a tick.Colored oil can, several tubes of tempera and acrylic paints, 5 clamps, and another 10 sheets of sandpaper, two canvases for saws and knock. Not that all this was needed to realize the idea, but since I started to take a carpentry, then go in your hobby until the end. The only thing that bothered me was nails. There is no one more helpless, irresponsible and immoral in the world than a person crookedly shabby nails. And I knew that I would plunge into it soon.

The dreary part was when I twitched a plywood with an electrician. Plywood cracked and crumbled. He constrained a bunch of material. Fortunately, crooked bunks were then also useful. Well, at least fingers in place. Generally regretted that he almost did not take photos in the process. I decided that it would not be very interesting, but in the end it became interesting to me myself.

After a while, I put together such a coffin. Friends and acquaintances saw him somehow anxiously watched and asked if everything was good for me. Plywood was still and I decided to do the second at once in parallel, so as not to disappear the materials. When the top and bottom of the chest formed, he began to scratch his head how to make and join the edging of profiles in the corners. This case has gone about a month. The apartment turned into a sawmill from fine chips and wood dust. I even stopped getting out. Useless. Just left a vacuum cleaner like an extract. The woods ended three times, drove to the construction several times a week, then there was no one garbage, then the other ended. As a result, I gathered two undercures.

I faced an unexpected problem. I went through the entire Internet along and across. The desired fittings for the chest are simply not. There are all sorts of elaborate pens, but there are no simple collective farmers. Of the necessary, only a chain and loops that I artificially erased was found. Handles and platbands had to make yourself from wood, cut, glue, putty and paint under rusted metal.

In short, how could he fit the woods. Sheets of plywood 5mm thick. Not cardboard, but not armor.Piercing. However, like almost any plywood, still pretty curve. When he began to combine the lid and box, the chest looked skewed, like a knocked out jaw. I managed to align it in the process, but I write off it purely for luck. It turned out to glue the longitudinal and transverse rails. It took 5 clamps so that all this was normally grabbed without cracks. And in some places there are no joints at all. It turned out well, I did not expect from myself.

Only by the end of work with woods began to think how and from what to make chest teeth. I decided to take Polymo. Formed in warm water and freezes turning into plastic. For all repair it is ok, but there is finally not for modeling. Stubbornly, but made a lower row from it and realized that he had piled a garbage. It is difficult to give a normal shape, it is also impossible to process after hardening and everything is attached through the ass, everything is staggering and falling off. Although it looks cool. A self.Provoking mass such as ceramics or plastic planted on a liquid nail came to the rescue. And I did not have to demolish my brain with baking and other difficulties.

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