How to make a circular saw from a circular saw
Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands. instructions and installation
Circular saw. a convenient and productive tool for construction work, with high performance and maneuverability. But when sawing large batches of lumber it is quite difficult to work with a powerful circular saw. The table for the circular saw, made by your own hands, can significantly facilitate this task.
Circular saw table with your own hands
An uncomplicated table can be made of plywood and planks. The hand-held circular saw is mounted on the underside of the tabletop, with its toothed disk positioned in the slot on the tabletop. When the saw is turned on, the disk starts to rotate, and the sawing process occurs as the lumber is fed. The maximum thickness of the cut wood depends on the size of the blade and the power of the saw. When selecting your tool, you need to consider the thickness of the tabletop to which the saw is attached from below.
Materials and tools required
To start the working process, it is recommended to prepare everything you need. Stationary equipment is mounted on a sturdy and stable table. To make it you will need a sheet of sanded plywood of the required size and a thickness of not less than 20 mm. The legs of the table can be made of 4 bars connected by wooden or metal crosspieces.
In addition, you will need a circular saw or angle grinder.
It is also necessary to stock up on the following tools and materials:
- Electric screwdriver;
- 3-4 metal clamps;
- self-tapping screws and screws;
- 2 metal curtains of small size;
- 2 screws;
- A sanded board, the length of which corresponds to the length of the table, and the height varies in the range of 10-12 cm
- A pencil, a long ruler.
All of this can be found in the workshop or purchased inexpensively in any hardware store.
How to make a circular saw, keeping a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Let’s consider the main nodes that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with some skill and tools.
Bed for the circular saw
The frame can be made from metal angles (channel bars), bought from scrap metal collectors. If you can afford it. go to the metalware warehouse. The legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good version of a homemade frame from rolled steel
IMPORTANT! Using bolted connections is prohibited, because due to the vibration of such a mount will unscrew.
It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a bracket. The upper part of the base (on which the table will rely) and the podium for the electric motor is made from angle bars with sides of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for mobility. they must have steel rims and have locks. The heavier the base weight, the more stable the machine and the safer it is to work with.
Popular: Overview of circular saws from manual to stationary
What to make a circular saw table from?
The work surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheets. It is possible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture-resistant plywood. On top of plywood is nailed a galvanized sheet metal.
The main condition. the material must not crack from vibrations, have a smooth surface and not allow deflections under the weight of at least 50 kg. If the table top cracks or warps, the circular wheel will jam.
All-purpose homemade table for circular saw and router. I recommend this video to watch
it will lead to injuries and damage to the workpiece. Using the popular materials OSB and particle board is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations, and can collapse at the most crucial moment.
There are two options for making a working groove for a circular saw blade:
It is possible to cut a groove. Or place the two halves of the tabletop apart.
The blade should protrude above the table by no more than 1/3 of the diameter.
For any work, from sawing firewood to carpentry. a reliable side stop is needed. It can be a metal angle or a hardwood bar. You can adjust the working air gap with parallel slots on the tabletop or simply clamp the end stop.
The side fence must be parallel to the plane of the disc. The slightest deviation will cause the disc to jam.
Which motor for the circular saw??
You can’t just install the motor by eye. The power needs to be calculated. A motor of 1 kW is necessary for a 350 mm diameter disc, and 500 W will be sufficient for a 170 mm diameter disc.
A good option is a motor from an old washing machine.
Motor from a washing machine
It is designed for continuous operation with medium load. If you intend to work with a disc more than 350 mm. you can use the power unit from the used industrial ventilation.
Large electric motors are usually mounted on dampers (shock absorbers), which prevent unnecessary vibration.
This is unacceptable for a stationary saw because a belt or gear drive will not provide constant engagement.
This is why the motor is mounted on a rigid and stable base. Motor can be moved to adjust the pulley tension.
How to make a drive?
The best option is the V-belt. It is possible to use a V-belt complete with pulleys from a car engine.
Watch this video to see what a V-belt drive is and how to calculate it.
The belt drive guarantees a certain amount of safety if the disc gets jammed (e.g. a nail in the workpiece). Unlike a rigid pinion gear, the belt slips on the pulley, preventing the circular disc from collapsing.
If your electric motor does not have a speed regulator, you can make interchangeable pulleys of different diameters. This will make it possible to use all types of discs, for different working speeds.
The disc shaft is an important part in the circular saw
Perhaps the most critical part of a homemade circular saw. It is not safe to make it homemade from a piece of pipe, so it is better to order it from a good turner or buy a ready-made one. The same applies to the bearing brackets. To save money, you can use hub kits from a car.
A purchased shaft for the circular saw with a pulley
The bearings must be protected from dust, for this purpose, a gasket is placed in the grooves between the bearing rims.
The shaft can be fitted with slots to hold planer blades. In this case, it is subject to balancing. It can also be fitted with mounts for router bits. Then the machine can be used to make paneled doors and cornices of complex shape.
The starting device must match the power of the electric motor. The safest option. push-button, with thermal protection for overcurrent. In this case, in case of jamming of the disk automatic shutdown is possible.
the electric board is mounted on a dielectric material, the wiring is reliably isolated from the metal bed. Disconnect pushbutton easily accessible and depress easily.
How to make a circular saw with your own hands: the preparatory stages of work
Before putting an end to the question about the advisability of making a circular saw yourself, it is necessary to get acquainted with several similar devices, watch videos on the Internet. During inspections and viewings, particular attention must be paid to the main components, details, fixing methods. To understand how to make a circular saw, you need at least theoretical knowledge.
The manufacturing process can be implemented in two ways:
In the case of the latter option, the task is somewhat complicated, as parts and mechanisms are often bought in different places, but they must match the technical and functional characteristics.
Scheme of making a circular saw with their own hands.
To recap! Purchase the elements for the future design of the circular saw only after a detailed drawing of the installation.
Without a drawing it is impossible to take into account the dimensions of the elements and pick up the complete set. Quite often this stage (drawing work) is omitted by home craftsmen because of the lack of skill to perform. It is not necessary to do this, because it is quite enough to draw the saw. At least this will visualize the future machine. To imagine what the end result will be. is extremely important.
Only after you have a drawing or sketch and all the necessary elements, you can proceed directly to the assembly process.
DIY amateur sawing table
Good afternoon all! While discussing one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, participants were asked to do a review of the sawing table I work on. In this review I will tell you how I hastily made a sawing table from what I had, plus some small things I bought. A detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all of its elements and components, is attached to the review. I’ve been thinking about a sawing table for a long time now, but there was a huge amount of other stuff to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when last year I had a more or less calm winter, I came across a series of videos on home-built sawing tables and realized that this is the time to make.
In so many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and always against the background of fully equipped workshops with a bunch of machines, that sometimes you look at their working conditions and doubt whether to take. In this review I will tell how made the table in a fairly Spartan conditions, having in my hands a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and router (just here was the first time tried the router, which was new in a box for three years).
I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap but very reliable machine, which has stood the test of time and performed on construction sites so much work that it should be put on a pedestal, and prominently placed in the workshop. But since any tool must work until the end, she was offered a new place.
After the completion of the main stage of the house construction, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and it was time to use it somewhere. At that time, I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the idea, as I see it, formed in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during implementation, my eyes ran what was in the closet, the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, not made any simulation, but for this review I have transferred the desktop in a 3D-model in SketchUp, tried to present all the constituent elements, the only thing I have not traced the nuts and screws, it was lazy and I already thought more a waste of time, because already in principle it is clear and, if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, by layers you can remove the enlarged elements, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition or as an idea for their realization.
Model of a sawing table in SketchUp
So, I took a sheet of 21 mm plywood, marked and sawed out the base of the table with a circular saw. The dimensions of the table are big, but I needed a universal table, where I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated wood chipboard for cabinet making.
Then I turned the obtained sheet, marked it, put the circular saw with raised blade on the sheet, outlined the saw blade sole with a pencil, and selected material in the obtained projection of the sole at the depth of about 12 mm with a router with a slot cutter. The circular saw blade is then inserted into the resulting recess. Handle and blade guard are first removed from the saw.
We made 4 holes along the contour of the saw sole in the sheet of the table base for M8 bolts. From the top of the base (back) were installed whisker nuts M8. The sole of the saw is set in a recess and pressed through the reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base.
Then we loosen the mechanism of depth of cut adjustment of saw, put the saw into the socket and, pushing the saw, we saw through the table base to the full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we have a disk. The most important point here is not to mix up the direction in which the saw should rotate when installing the saw in the recess (the disc from the side of the table working surface should rotate on itself), while I was trying it on, almost got mixed up, it’s good to notice in time. By the way, in the Sketchup model I used a saw from 3D Warehouse and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drives in the SketchUp model (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirrored, located on different sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw and left it, the main thing is to indicate the right direction of the disk rotation. Everyone’s saw is different anyway.
With that on the table you can saw:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I positioned in the workshop with one side on the shelf of a rack, the other on the back of a chair against the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line for the trimmer of the cut.Take a long aluminum angle (or a bar, or a flat board), place it on the angle relative to the cutting line, fix it to the table with screw clamps. and we have an improvised temporary parallel stop.
That’s how I sawed all the other details of the table, while it was slowly assembled.
First of all I decided to saw the saw blade guard for dust removal. For the first time in my life I was able to instantly, without fitting, get completely identical parts, like twin brothers. The cover. four walls of 10 mm plywood, bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glue everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.
To connect the vacuum cleaner, I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box under the bimetal crown sewer fitting 50 mm. To attach the fitting to the enclosure, I cut the fitting’s cut into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated the sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then went over each sector with small screws, filled the gaps on the other side with hot melt glue. It turned out firmly, and from the careless movement of the hose vacuum cleaner fitting exactly will not pull out of the housing.
For fixing the box to the table I used 30×30 metal angles, and 15×30 for the lock. Made flat eyelets from cut plywood plates 6 mm dremel, glued them to the table, they are inserted into the corners of the box. On the other side of the box with a metal plate and self-tapping screws made a kind of lock.
Circular saw out of a circular saw with my own hands
The stationary circular saw is an indispensable tool for DIY woodworkers and do-it-yourselfers. Such a stationary machine is characterized by convenience in the work. especially long and monotonous. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so it is less tired.
Today in stores machines and tools are available in a huge selection of models. However, for a simple carpenter they are too expensive, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example is a craftsman making a stationary circular saw with his own hands, taking a hand-held circular. In what way he did it. let’s see below.
List of necessary materials: hand-held circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture head; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.
How to assemble a stationary circular saw
As we have already noted, to make his circular saw, the author used a manual circular. He did not make any changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top, where previously made a kerf for the blade. He drilled the holes and then sawed. Using plywood and a 40×40 balk, he made the base.
After that the author took the plywood and sawed the table top. It is better to have it laminated or lacquered, with a smooth and even surface. As described, the saw was made, and in the corners drilled holes for further fasteners.
At the bottom of the countertop, we fastened the circular saw using M-8 bolts. The bolt heads must be sunk into the plywood.
For more convenient work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable stop on rails for furniture.
An aluminum angle used for the longitudinal stop.
To adjust it, we should loosen the bolts and move it to the desired distance for further work.
Table for circular saw with his own hands (with drawings)
In this section we offer a model of universal table on which you can put a circular saw, which has any technical indicators and sizes. The following materials will be needed to make the structure:
- Sheet of plywood, preferably with a laminated top coating, at least 10 mm thick and 800×800 mm in size;
- 4 blades Laminated chipboard 16 mm thick (400×784 mm);
- 50×50 mm bars;
- screws and self-tapping screws.
To make a homemade circular saw and table you will need the following drawings
Making a table for a circular saw can be done in this sequence:
- From sheets of Laminated chipboard assembles the upper part of the future table, which is a box without a bottom. The sides are fastened to each other with bars, the length of which is significantly greater than the height of the sheets.
- The fabricated structure is turned over, the bars-legs of the future table in the lower part are fastened by additional crosspieces.
- From plywood cut the table top, in which with a jigsaw is made a longitudinal hole. a saw blade will be inserted into it.
On the Internet you can easily find a drawing of such a design, which greatly simplifies the production. You can modernize the above version of the table for the circular saw with your own hands, replacing the bars on the metal angle or making the so-called box of boards. In the lower part of the design is not bad to make a shelf.
Making a facing board from a circular saw with your own hands
Laying a wooden floor, replacement of platbands, facade cladding planken, clapboard, the creation of elements of landscape design require dimensional board. The process of preparing such a board is called facing. That is, the ends of the material are cut off in order to obtain the desired size of the workpiece and make the cuts aesthetic.
Trimmer, made by their own hands, makes the work faster and more economical
To make a cutter from a manual circular saw with your own hands, you will need improvised material and used tools. The standard features that a future facing tool should have are:
The upper part of the power tool is attached to the kingpin using a large bearing. 150 mm (it will not be difficult to buy at the market.) The lugs are attached to the outside of the bearing. They serve to fix the tool to the surface of the bed with M6 screws.
The main accessories for the circular saw with their own hands are car shock absorbers (it is convenient to use them as a broach), a soft start button and additional protection, which is attached to the power tool and the bed.
The upper part of the facing tool is mounted on a kingpin using a bearing
Important! Before assembling the structure the shock absorbers must be dismantled, drained of oil and air holes must be made.
The advantages of homemade mitre saw can include the following:
- The design is easy to disassemble, and the power tool can be used for its intended purpose.
Among the significant disadvantages is the high noise. It is almost impossible to eliminate this disadvantage. In addition, it is necessary to make a test cut (the choice and fixing of the pull) to ensure a good quality of the subsequent work.
Device options. features and preparation
It is necessary to think over all the nuances of making a homemade product. Blueprints facilitate the work process. First determine the dimensions of the tabletop. The hole under the circular saw must exactly match the tool. It depends on its diameter, so it is impossible to say what is required.
Choose the dimensions of the tabletop, taking into account your own wishes and the size of workpieces to be processed. When they are fully laid flat, the cuts are more accurate and even. At the same time too large dimensions are inconvenient. it makes the room too cluttered. Masters sometimes make folding tables that take up little space when not in use. Some people need to make small parts, so they need a machine tool that fits their needs.
If the owner wants to have necessary tools always at hand, the most convenient place is on the table top. For this purpose, the size is significantly increased, suitable 1,2 × 1,2 m.
Table for hand circular saw
There are a lot of constructions of handmade sawing tables for hand circular saws, but most of them are the fruits of creative search and/or self-expression. But they are quite workable. However, the best options for those who have not to make and show, and work on it, can be seen clearly enough.
This is a folding circular saw table for handheld circular saws (left in pic.). Tabletop. laminated plywood 12 mm and higher; the height of the tsargument from 400 mm. furniture Laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. It is undesirable to make the cross-bars from boards, you will not get the needed table rigidity. Table top overhangs. 30-60 mm.
Construction of circular saw table for handheld circular saw
The table top construction of the circular table is shown in the picture on the right. Slots for saw blade exit (one slot is possible) are cut 6-10 mm wide. No special accuracy is required, t.к. stop (see groove. (see below) aligned to the saw blade for sawing. table top dimensions can be changed arbitrarily (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Fixing in operating position (C node in Fig.). screws M8 with wing nuts. Rotating knot (pos. B). a piece of pipe (plastic pipe is acceptable). Its attachment to the table top. you can do it with countersunk screws through the through holes.
Instead of hinges. L-shaped pieces of bar D8; a small backlash in the tube does not affect the quality of sawing. Each “hinge” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. On the long sticks “G” threaded, and they are mounted in a tsarga pairs of nuts with split washers. The fixing holes in the cylinder are best marked on the spot by inserting the “hinges” into the tube and laying the table top on the base.
Making a massive sliding stop for the workpiece, as on the pose. 3b in the big picture. In the beginning, it is not necessary. It (stop) is better to make it from a piece of 40×40 steel angle, having cut a vertical flange as shown here in fig. (rear view).
Construction of a sliding support from steel angle for a selfmade circular table
It is fastened to the table top with screw clamps, and you must verify its parallelism to the saw blade in any case; it is done by metal-square with millimeter marks.
Mounting the manual circular saw in the sawing table in the clamps
The circular saw is fastened to the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is not under warranty and the loss of depth of cut is insignificant, 4 holes D8 are drilled in the saw shoe and the saw is secured by countersunk head screws. It is advisable to put a 1-2 mm rubber between shoe and worktop (e.g. for the workpiece)., of an auto-camera), quality of a cut will appreciably improve owing to damping of vibrations of the tool. If depth of cut losses must be kept to a minimum, a cut-out is made in the table top for the tool shoe, the saw is fixed to a 3-6 mm thick steel sheet and in the rectangular recess on the front (working) surface of the table top (see pic. figs. on the left). But the hole will have to choose a hand router on wood, chisel exactly flush will not work.
If the tool is a warranty or rental tool, a loss in depth of cut is unavoidable, i.e.к. it is impossible to drill a hole in the saw’s shoe. For such case there is a variant of saw’s fastening in clamps (see pic. trace. Fig.). Not suitable for regular work in large quantities, but it can be done quickly and you can saw evenly for a day or two.
Manual circular saw mounting in the saw table with minimal loss of cutting depth
Note: about the variants of self-made sawing tables on the basis of manual circular saws see video; stationary to the workshop: