How to make a device for the angle grinder

The easiest tool for the rack is an angle grinder

Actually this device can not be called a stand, but the work with it can be done almost the same, which provides the most technologically advanced rack. The principle of its operation is clear from the short video:

But if instead of the strip to use the appropriate angle with a sawn-off part of one of the shelves, as did one of the authors of a similar design, then there will be no need to zasplivanii a blind hole in the head of the angle grinder.

make, device, angle, grinder

In this case, the tool will be fastened with two screws in the existing head of the angle grinder threaded holes for the handle. And the principle of work of the base plate will not change. only its rigidity will increase.

The way of using the angle grinder as a kind of a circular saw using the same soleplate, shown in another video by the same author, will not change either:

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Self-made machine: pros and cons

For those who use an angle grinder, its disadvantages are obvious. These unpleasant moments are derived, paradoxically, from the main advantage of the angle grinder. mobility.

The downsides of using an angle grinder are:

  • It is not always possible to fix parts for cutting, and their vibration can destroy the abrasive disk, which is dangerous for the operator with serious injuries.
  • It’s hard to keep an accurate perpendicular cut and consider the thickness of the blade in relation to the material to be cut and marked, while holding the material yourself.
  • It is hard to cut several parts of the same size. For example, rods, small tubes. And they need to be leveled after cutting.
  • Occupation of both hands at the same time, tiring concentration during cutting, as the angle grinder or angle grinder is a tool that is traumatic. For example, it is very likely to throw the sander when the disc is jammed in the material and then the subsequent breakage of the wheel is possible. And here in this case, splinters of abrasive material can hurt a person badly; most often, this rejection occurs at the end of cutting, with parts held together by a small bridge, in such a situation, you need to stop cutting, take out the wheel and complete the work on the back side of the workpiece.

Attachments for the angle grinder: making it yourself

angle grinder is a useful and versatile tool. It is suitable for cutting metal, stone, tile and sanding surfaces. However, sometimes there are situations in which a stationary machine is more suitable for these works. It is good that using certain accessories for angle grinder, it can be turned into a cutting machine.

Finding a ready-made machine that meets your needs in stores will not be difficult. However, the probability of finding a design that rigidly fixes the angle grinder and does not dangle during the work is not great, because they are all made of duraly. For this reason, many people prefer to make various devices for the angle grinder with their own hands.

Attachments for the angle grinder: perfecting the tool

Angle grinder has become widespread due to its variety of functionality. This type of tool is versatile, as it is capable of performing such work as cutting, grinding, deburring. The functionality of this tool can be expanded, but this will require some devices. These are such devices for the angle grinder, which will allow you to turn the tool into a milling machine, a gouge cutter, a cutting machine and others.

Table grinder

Stationary grinder can be made of angle grinder in two variants. In the first case, the angle grinder is fixed firmly on a special attachment. And another variant of making is shown in the figure.

In the second case it is a belt-type grinder. It is shown in the figure. Here you need to think about mechanisms of tensioning (on 2 or 3 rollers) and fastening to the table top.

Self-made devices for the angle grinder. pros and cons

For those who have already applied the angle grinder in business, probably noticed its disadvantages. The weak point of this tool is its advantage. mobility.

First, at times the parts when cutting can not always be securely fixed, minor movements during vibration lead to a breakage of the abrasive disc, which, in turn, is very injury-prone.

Secondly, the mobility of the device during work does not allow to control the exact perpendicular cut of the material.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to produce the cutting of several parts of the same size at the same time. Have to perform many additional operations with the product, observing the maximum concentration, which leads to rapid fatigue. Creation of the cutting machine with their own hands will help to solve all these difficulties.

How to make the simplest stand for the angle grinder with your own hands

With the most common tools and using improvised materials can be made a simple stand for the angle grinder with their own hands. To fix the angle grinder on the base, you will need angles, metal or textolite plates. If two metal plates are used, screws can be replaced by a welded connection. The plate, which serves as a mobile platform, is made of steel sheet or duralumin up to five millimeters thick.

Makes a stand for the angle grinder

If you use textolite instead of metal sheet, then the workpiece should be up to ten millimeters thick. The second plate must be made of metal, as it serves as a stop. Five millimeter thick steel is used because it is subject to most of the load. Thinner metal should not be used because of vibrations and possible deformation, which makes the work with the device unsafe.

To ensure a secure fixture on the platform, several through holes with a diameter of five millimeters are drilled on one half of the plate. The second half of the plate is marked out so that a hole with a diameter of eight millimeters can be drilled in its center. All holes to be drilled in the platform are drilled from the back for the heads of the countersunk screws. It is permissible to replace the second plate with an angle by drilling it accordingly.

If you can not use welding, angle or plate firmly fixed with screws to the platform so that the distance from the edge of the device to the cutting disc was at least five millimeters. The angle must be bent 60° in relation to the post. To eliminate the bolt rotation and vibration of the grinder is fixed at the top of the bolt with a washer Grover or a locknut.


Homemade edge grinder for cutting ceramic tiles at 45 degrees

How to make a fixture for the angle grinder

Stand for the angle grinder (angle grinder) with their own hands or self-made cutting machine

As I said before, in the garage there are two problems to cut off evenly and drill evenly. The problem with drilling is solved, the drill stand was worth the time and money. An angle grinder was in the corner awaiting its time. It was an angle grinder made back in 1977. In Bulgaria, the “ELPROM LOVECH”, terribly heavy, but, according to rumors, a very reliable angle grinder. I tried to work with it. I considered myself if not a cool expert, then certainly experienced. Always worked a big Makita 9069, the thing is quite powerful and heavy. But the angle grinder in comparison with makita is a wild beast. With similar power to a makita.9 kW it is significantly heavier, especially mine under disks 180 mm and output speed 8500 rpm. In general, I decided then, that in the hands of her no longer take it (pescotno) and the way it is only in the rack. I’ve been wanting to make a rack for a long time. And of course the rack should be as usual “light, strong and reliable”. I’ll tell you right away, the only justification for the work done “well, it’s for myself, for many years, a good tool is not easy”.

Started out like everyone else, welded a rectangle for the base.

For the hinge took the rear hub, I think from the Chery Tiggo. I cut the center tab off of it, I scraped off the ABS sensor.

HUB is fastened to the channel, in which is cut out a hole for fastening. Cut out with an angle grinder, rather difficult by the way. I’ve been refinishing it with a file.

The main bracket for the angle grinder began to do from the angle grinder. First, I fitted the corners to the regular mounting points of the handles, then welded a third corner between them.

Then I bent the bracket. clamp on the grinder body from 2 mm steel.

To this clamp welded a bolt and connected the angle to the mounting part. To all the resulting structure welded pipe 50X50 with holes for attaching to the hub.

With the help of a bolt the position of the angle grinder is adjusted in relation to the table. Next, I welded to the base a 60th angle to which will be fixed the channel. I estimate the position and drill a channel and a corner under it. Fixing bolts will be different M10 and M12, this is associated with the second adjustment, the channel should rotate a little due to the larger holes for bolts.

Then I welded two more tubes to guide the clamping mechanism, and reinforced the structure with two pieces of 50-th angle piece.

Then, on top of that I welded plates with thickness of 4 mm. As hard as I tried, and ideally smooth surface did not turn out, differences in the 1-1,5 mm are, but in practice, the accuracy of the cut is not affected.

It is now possible to assemble the installation. I additionally reinforce the channel and the main bracket with angles. The total weight of the setup is not critical yet, but already quite interesting

Next was the longest and most laborious tooling for the job. This is the workpiece stop and clamp, this is the return spring and this is the table expander. Let’s start with the workpiece stop. We take a piece of 50th angle, weld a small rectangle to it.

Now I have to cut an arc in it, so that I can cut the workpieces at any angle. First I drill the holes in the arc with the help of a drilling template. Then I mill the arc all the way through.

Now the clamping device. The screw was taken from an old and bent eighth jack. I judged it would be better than a normal Chinese stud. I ground the end of the screw to 6 mm and cut the thread.

For the moving part the most difficult thing is to make the axle. I made from a piece of the same Chinese stud, I will tell you right away I did not use lathe, I ground to desired diameter with an angle grinder, though with some devices.

It remains to fix the nut. The clamping device was planned to be removable, so it is mounted on bolts, and the threads are cut directly in the work table. The nut of the jack was welded with 4mm pieces of steel.

Since the presser was ready, I decided to cut the pipe for the table legs, and at the same time to see how it all worked. As a result I made a cut on the stop of the workpiece in which the gear case of the angle grinder was resting. I also trimmed the width of the presser a little later.

By the way, on the photo you can see the wing-nuts. Never use wing-nuts in such places, the manual force is not enough to secure the stop well. This is an invaluable experience The nuts have loosened, the disk has shattered. Now there are usual nuts, I always tighten very tight.

Next is the return spring. Well as a spring I thought it would be a spring, but it ended up being something cooler. I realize that I have made it more complicated, but the result was worth it. Here I imagined what a powerful spring is needed to hold an angle grinder and that the force at the end of the cut should not be small. In addition, after the cut it is necessary to smoothly take the angle grinder upwards. I wanted to cut and release it and it would go back to the original position. What for this is needed? The gas stop, of course, from a nine, has been on the shelf for years. And the return system should be hidden, that is to work from below. That means we’ll need more rods and levers. Actually it is quite easy to make, I would even say fast. First, I made a cut in the table for the lever. The lever itself is made from a corner, through many trials gave it the desired shape. It is fastened right on hub, on OEM pin.

You will need some more details. the gas strut, long rod to it, bent out of M6 stud. The stopper is inserted as it was. It worked the first time. At first it seemed that it lifts a little, but when the angle grinder got all sorts of handles and the hood, it turned out just right.

Parts of the return mechanism. The mechanism in a compressed/uncompressed position.

Well actually that’s almost all. I also made a spark arrester just a tin plate screwed into the path of the sparks. Also put a separate handle on the drive tube screwed to the main bracket and the pipe to the regular side handle of the angle grinder. Of course I made an extension of the table, on the principle of tube-in-tube. Here was a problem, inside the pipe 50X50 enters pipe 45X45. It exists in principle, but in fact it is nowhere to be found. I had to weld 4 mm strips on a 40X40 pipe. On the expansion will always be an additional stop workpiece is needed so that the cut portion was not caught by the disc and did not fly away, and an additional stop for “cloning” parts if you want two or more parts of the same length do not need to measure the length of each cut.

Extending the table and fixture on it.

Yes, I forgot about the protective cover. The original hood was long lost, was already under 230th disk. I built it up to the max where possible and made a hinged part to it like on the factory assembly saws.

Cool idea! A tricky device from your angle grinder

The blade guard and the hinged part to it.

And only when it was time to paint, I saw the number of parts of the “simple and light” stand for the angle grinder. It is better to carry the complete system with two people. No, you can do it alone, but it’s hard.

Cool idea! A tricky device from your angle grinder (without welding)

After completing became obvious several factors complicating the work on the installation. The first thing you need a permanent place for it, drag it back and forth is just not possible, and not always there is a helper to do it. The second thing is to reduce the RPM. You can’t use a 230 blade at 8500 rpm, and a 180 isn’t big enough for the clamping mechanism. At the moment I am actively introducing into the system speed control with feedback, so that the set RPM does not sag under load. In addition, it will be possible to use saw blades for metal (3000 rpm for 230 blade) and wood (about 4000 rpm). And if you want you can put a 355 mm disc, but you will have to saw out and make a new table and a new hood.If there are any questions view 10 min. The video below will help clarify.

Top 6 drawings on the cutting machine from the angle grinder with their own hands: the best construction with a description of assembly

Top 6 blueprints to make a cutting machine from an angle grinder with your own hands without errors and unnecessary costs. Answers to frequent questions, suggestions.

  • The correct option is b). Foot switches are more convenient, because they are actuated quickly.
  • Theoretically. enough power in all three options. In practice we use a) electric and b) pneumatic models. Battery is not necessary for a stationary machine. For pneumatic actuators, you have to buy a compressor with appropriate capacity.
  • 900 W or more. Correction is done if you want to process workpieces made of relatively soft materials, or at high speeds.
  • Both are correct. Powerful angle grinder is suitable for a variety of machines domestic and semi-professional level.
  • Two mounting options are allowed. Experts prefer the top one.

A power angle grinder performs many different jobs. To reduce labor costs while increasing accuracy, it is used as the basis for the machine.

“angle grinder” is a common name for an angle grinder (angle grinder). By changing the disc, this versatile machine is converted for trimming, other working operations.

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