How to make a stationary circular saw from a manual circular saw

How to make a circular saw with your own hands

Before constructing a machine, it is important to determine its purpose. To make firewood and perform a simple sawing, a securely fixed table with a slot for the saws is enough. But such a machine is hardly safe or functional.

To perform a larger number of works, it is worth making a circular saw, equipped with a coordinate table. It must have guides. This will help to change the degree. It is worth providing the possibility of switching speeds and changing discs.

You can make a circular saw from a variety of gadgets. Virtually every man has an angle grinder in his toolbox. It is often used in home conditions. To make a stationary installation it is necessary to use a workbench or a special table. Attach the tool from below.

So, how to make a circular saw? To do this, you need to do the following:

  • Pull the metal band clamp on the tool. Its tie must be placed at the bottom.
  • Fold the strip of metal in half and fix it in the area of the holes.
  • Make holes in the gearbox of the angle grinder.
  • Attach an axial handle.

Note! The handle can be made from a metal rod or tube. In this case, the workpiece should resemble in shape a crampon.

You can make a tool from an angle grinder

Scope of application of the home-made saw

The main task of this equipment is to make a perfect long cut in wood. In order to guarantee the quality of the cut with a circular saw, several conditions are necessary: the high speed of the cutting edge, its sharpness, the rigidity of the system “disk. working surface”, safety, durability and convenience.

Small dimensions of the circular saw do not allow its use during the construction of the house, when the wood is required in large quantities, because the functionality of homemade equipment is not so wide.

But for repair work, such a machine tool will be a savior, an indispensable helper. The circular saw will quickly and efficiently get all kinds of wood blanks (bars, slats, laths), saw sheet material into boards of required dimensions.

With such a tool at hand, it is easy to make fences, shelves, racks, tables and chairs. If you install a special disk on it, then the homemade circular saw can work even with metal: both with relatively soft aluminum and other materials, but their thickness should be a maximum of 2 mm.

Sawing table with their own hands from a manual circular saw

Makeshift sawing table with their own hands, photo and detailed description is attached.

I decided to make a cheap and practical sawing table from a handheld circular saw. Bought Laminated chipboard (yes, such things are not correct to do from chipboard, but, realistically, I have not found moisture-resistant plywood, and admittedly, in Minsk, I’ve never seen it in the eyes). Got two pieces of 600 x 800 x 16 mm and 300 x 800 x 16 mm. Bought aluminum angle 20 x 40 x 2000 mm and channel 10 x 10 x 2000 mm. Took 40 screws, two metal rulers for 500 mm.

I began to work. The base plate will be 600 x 800 mm. Plate 300 x 800 mm, I dissolved into 50 x 800 mm lamellae. From them made edging which added rigidity. Assembled everything with Kleiberit PUR 501.

Milled a cavity under the channel and glued it with Soudal Fix All Classic. Too bad the channel is a tennot a 15well, what do I haveI’ll find it, maybe I’ll redo it. Next I milled paths for the ruler.

I cut the rulers to size, positioned them exactly on the disk and glued them with Soudal.

Then I decided to make a parallel stop. I didn’t want to squeeze the piece of wood every time with clamps, so I decided to make the stop on the factory sawing machines. The base is a 20mm x 40mm aluminum angle. It has not much stiffness, so I reinforced it with a wooden slat, glued them together by fixing everything. riveted a 20mm x 20mm corner to the back of the rail. This will already allow positioning the stop perpendicular to the table. I decided to make a bit more trouble with the fastener. For realization of this idea I needed a piece of aluminum.

Where to get a piece of aluminum? Sawed off the disk.

I took the clamp I didn’t need I borrowed the parts I needed from it.

Parallel stop was joined with clamp by two bolts with anaerobic glue.

It was very comfortablenot much worse than the factory quick-release stops. And then there were the little things installation of socket, wiring, switch Button in the saw is fixed.

All that works in conjunction with a vacuum cleaner with an autopower. I forgot to take a picture of the broach carriagebut it’s pretty clear. The circular saw is based on 160-th disk now it’s not enough of course. At the moment the kerf thickness is 37 mm.

I’ll probably buy and install another circular saw in a monthbased on a 210 or 235 disk. It will definitely be a circular saw with a riving knife. If I put in a circular saw with a 210-235 blade, before then I will definitely put together a soft start module for the saw.

Of course, the manual circular saw table is an economic solution need is compelling. And it doesn’t fully replace the factory productespecially when it comes to sawing at angles. My table has two positions made90 and 45 degrees. As a rule, that’s enough. Excluding the circular saw, which was in the farm the cost of all materials (without glue) was 30 even with the saw on a 235-disc, the cost of such a machine would not exceed 160 which is exactly half the price, a factory table like Bosch or Makita.

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Assembly of the circular saw table

Boards, prepared for the legs, are cut along the length at a slight angle with a narrowing to the bottom.

The upper ends are also beveled, so that the structure stands with a slight spread. The legs are bolted to the tabletop frame through the drilled holes. For the best strength of the connection, square bars glued into the inner corners of the frame can be included in the coupler.

The circular saw remains to be fitted with the working mechanism. The handheld circular saw is mounted to the machine table from below. The disk is inserted into the cutout, the device is secured with screws, the heads of which should be recessed flush into the plywood sheet from above.

As a protective layer for the material and to improve the sliding of workpieces, the tabletop and other wooden parts of the machine are varnished in several layers. On the surface of the tabletop, you can draw a marking to trim the ends of the skirting boards or platbands, which are prepared for joining “on the bevel.

Circular saw table assembly diagram.

In another variant, the working plane of the machine is made of two metal plates.

They are bolted to the frame, leaving a gap for the disk. Bolt holes are countersinked from above to drive the heads deeper. The sawing bar can be secured with clamps to control the size of the material being sawed.

convenient stop for the workpiece to be sawn is made of steel angle bars with 60 and 80 mm shelves. Its length must be longer than the table length.

The ends of the narrow flange are cut off and the wide flange is bent onto the table top. Holes are drilled and threaded for clamping screws in the ears. A guide bar made from angle piece is set according to the template of the workpiece and fixed with bolts to the end face of the table top.

If you use the machine permanently, it is better to make the table from steel angles with the help of welding.

You can fix the trigger on the tabletop frame or mount it on the wall of the workshop, using an extended cable to connect the machine. The push button on the body of the saw can be shunted or simply secured with a clamp. The machine’s disengaging device must be safely accessible.

For sawing parts of small size, a mini-machine can be made without a worktable.

An old drill can be used as the electric drive for the sawing mechanism. A special shaft for insertion into the drill chuck has to be ordered from the turner. The toothed disc and 2 bearings must be firmly seated on it.

The frame for mounting the shaft is made of two parallel pieces of hardwood board with holes for pressing in the bearings. The working surface can be made of fiberglass or plexiglass. The drill and the frame of the device should be fixed to a board 30-40 mm thick.

The tool, mounted upside down with the handle, must be securely clamped to the base in the cylindrical part of the housing near the chuck. The board serving as the base of the mini-circular saw is clamped to a normal table with screw clamps. The body of the upside-down drill and the base plate must be flush.

make, stationary, circular, manual

The guide bar for the mini circular saw can be made from a 50×50 mm bar.

At one end of it a limit stop, made of a board, is rigidly fixed. It must be flush with the end face of the work surface. Threaded stud is fastened to the other end of the guide bar.

The second supporting element (bar) is put on it through the hole drilled in it. Stops are tightened by tightening the wing nut on the stud. The guide stop is set at the required distance from the saw blade and fastened like a screw clamp.

Homemade mini circular saw allows you to saw parts of sufficiently small thickness.

At your discretion you can improve a home-made circular saw in a simple design by installing additional elements and the use of other materials. To improve the functionality of the machine you can equip it with a carriage for feeding the material, change the attachment of the working mechanism, installing other additional devices to control the saw.

The circular hand saw. a convenient and functional tool for sawing workpieces made of wood. With its help it is possible to cut sheets of plywood, saw boards, cut beams, skirting boards, platbands, etc.

д. But with a large amount of work, such as in the construction of the house, it is more convenient to use a stationary version of the device. How to make a circular saw with your own hands from hand tools?

Other variants of the circular saw design

In addition to the above-mentioned option for home mater quite interesting variant will be the creation of a universal base for installation on it with the help of standard inserts other power tools:

As practice shows, the creation and successful operation of such machines can not only solve the problem of improving the home workshop, but also significantly saves money on the purchase of expensive equipment.

And although such machines do not look very aesthetically pleasing, they show excellent results in everyday work.

Circular saw from a circular saw with their own hands

A stationary circular saw is an extremely necessary tool in the joinery workshop. for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make various items to order. Such a stationary machine is characterized by the convenience of work. especially long and monotonous. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so it is less tired.

Today in stores machines and tools are presented in a huge selection of models. However, for the simple carpenter they are too expensive, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example. the craftsman made a stationary saw with his own hands, taking a hand-held circular saw. In what way he did it. let’s see below.

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List of necessary materials: hand circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture head; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.

List of tools: electric jigsaw; handheld circular saw; drill; electric screwdriver; hammer; screwdriver; pliers; ruler.

How to assemble a stationary circular saw

As we have already noted, to make his circular saw, the author used a hand-held circular saw. In doing so, he made no changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top. where before the saw cut for the disk was made. He drilled holes and then sawed. Taking plywood and a 40×40 beam, made a base.

After that the author took the plywood and sawed the table top. It is better that it was laminated or varnished, with an even and smooth surface. As described, the cut was made, with holes drilled in the corners for subsequent fastenings.

At the bottom of the table top we mount the circular saw, using M-8 bolts. In doing so, the bolt heads must be sunk into the plywood.

For more convenient work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable support on furniture rails.

Aluminum corner for the longitudinal stop.

To adjust it, you should loosen the bolts and move it to the desired distance for further work.

Table for the circular saw with their own hands (with drawings)

In this section we offer a model of universal table, on which you can place a circular saw with any technical indicators and sizes. To make the construction you will need the following materials:

  • A sheet of plywood, preferably with a laminated top coating, not less than 10 mm thick and 800×800 mm in size;
  • 4 blades Laminated chipboard 16 mm thick (400×784 mm);
  • bars 50×50 mm;
  • screws and self-tapping screws.

To make a homemade circular saw and table you will need drawings

Making a table for a circular saw can be carried out in this sequence:

  • The upper part of the future table is made of sheets of laminated chipboard, which is a box without a bottom. The sides are fastened to each other with bars, the length of which is much greater than the height of the sheets.
  • The fabricated structure is turned over, the beams-legs of the future table in the lower part are fastened by additional crosspieces.
  • The tabletop is cut from plywood, in which a longitudinal hole is made with a jigsaw. a saw blade will be inserted into it.

It is not difficult to find a drawing of such a design on the Internet, which will greatly simplify the production. It is possible to modernize the above suggested variant of the table for the circular saw with your own hands, replacing the bars with a metal angle or making the so-called box from boards. In the lower part of the construction it is not bad to make a shelf.

Making a trimmer from a circular saw with your own hands

Laying of the wooden floor, replacement of platbands, facade cladding planken, clapboard, the creation of elements of landscape design requires the presence of dimensional boards. The process of preparing such a board is called facing. That is cut off the ends of the material in order to obtain the desired size of the workpiece and make the bevels aesthetic.

Trimmer, made by your own hands, makes the work faster and more economical

To make a facing tool from a manual circular saw with your own hands, you will need improvised material and used tools. The standard characteristics that the future facing tool should have are as follows:

The upper part of the power tool is mounted on a kingpin using a large bearing. 150 mm (it is not difficult to buy it at the market.) On the outer side of the bearing, the ears are attached. They serve for fastening the tool to the surface of the bed with screws M6.

The main devices for the circular saw with their own hands are car shock absorbers (it is convenient to use them as a broach), soft-start button and additional protection, which is attached to the power tool and the bed.

The top of the face board is mounted on a kingpin using a bearing

Important! Before assembling the construction, the shock absorbers must be disassembled, drained of oil and air holes must be made.

The advantages of the homemade crosscut saw can include the following:

  • The design is easy to dismantle, and the power tool can be used for its intended purpose.
  • Low

Among the significant disadvantages is the high noise. It is practically impossible to eliminate this disadvantage. In addition, it is necessary to make a test cut (the selection and fixing of the pull) to ensure a good quality of the subsequent work.

Hand-held with a guide rail

Deep and “long” sawing for the home craftsman is not often necessary, and the manual circular saw and in itself a useful thing. In addition, the handheld circular saw with guide rail can cut wood crosswise and lengthwise, and at any angle. A cutting length of up to 1.5-2 m is quite sufficient for almost all finishing work and creative work.

There are enough ratchets for manual circular saws on sale, and they cost inexpensively, but there is no universal one. The principle of the device branded risshina is illustrated in Fig.saw’s base plate (shoe) is made with a longitudinal groove, and the guide bar is stamped with the respective slots. ridge (shown by the arrow in Fig.).

Use of hand-held circular saw with guide rail

It is convenient in work: it is necessary only to press the tool from above, and it will not go sideways, or skewed. And in the course of competition it is convenient too: we make our saws so that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.

Not convenient for craftsmen. you can’t find a cheaper guide rail. And a circular saw with a groove for guide rail is disproportionately expensive compared with the same one, but with a smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: a guide bar with a groove made of laminated plywood, and to the shoe they attach a pair of bosses (pos. 2b in large fig. at the beginning). But for this, firstly, you need a milling table for wood, which you have to make (not easy) or buy (at a high cost). Secondly, the already small depth of cut is reduced by 16-20 mm. Third, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe will burn out the warranty. Fourthly, if the saw is a rental, nothing can be reworked in it.

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There is another way, but the tool needs to be held in 3 planes at work: hold it against sideways movement and against rotation. The plywood base of the guide can then be thinner, 6-8 mm. The actual ruling will be a flat rail fixed to it (or a section of steel angle, etc.).п.), see. trace. Fig.:

How to make a guide for a manual circular saw

“Adjustment” of the device is reduced to simply cutting off the excess from the base with a circular saw. This guide is attached to a board/sheet of material with screw clamps, just like a branded. When working on the workbench, spacers of a little more thickness than the material are put under the base; the depth of cut corresponds to the thickness of the material. reduced.

Main technical characteristics and selection criteria for circular saws

The number of teeth is an important factor to consider when selecting equipment. This characteristic is very important for the application of the blade.

The number of teeth determines the specific range of tasks the tool can handle:

  • A small number of tines will be needed for rough cutting of wood panels with different density levels. The carved surface will be sloppy and the quality will be low
  • Medium toothed circular saw is suitable for a wider range of applications. Longitudinal and cross cutting of wood pieces, rough processing of metal pieces.
  • A large number of teeth is used as often as possible in the work. This cross and longitudinal cuts in high-density wood, cutting boards, plastic and laminate, work with metal workpieces.


This parameter is important when buying equipment. The higher the power rating, the better the saw will do the job. It is important for specific tasks. Materials with dense textures need to be processed with equipment with maximum power.

Circular saws are available in three types with power levels:

The weight of the tool depends on this parameter. That’s worth considering. Carrying out work with a weighty unit is incredibly difficult.

make, stationary, circular, manual

Important to know! If the power of the device is less than 1 kW, it is not recommended to take it to work with large-sized workpieces, as there is a possibility of the blade getting caught in the wood.

RPM and blade diameter

This rating has a direct effect on the performance of the tool, its ability to work with thick and hard textured materials. It is the rotational speed that determines how accurately and smoothly a cut is made.

Equipment with a high rotation speed greatly simplifies the work process. The saw will pass the material (even dense) much faster, there will be no burrs and chips on the saw. However, if the speed is too high, the circular saw blade heats up quickly. As a result, the cut can leave scorch marks. Working with plastic, the edges will melt.

When selecting the tool in terms of rotation speed, equipment with an adjustable mechanism is preferable. This will allow the craftsman to adjust the parameter independently to the type of raw material.

When choosing a saw blade technical data is important: the outer and inner diameter. The first one affects the depth of cut, its parameters vary from 65 to 500 mm. The marked values are constant. The dimensions of the blade are limited by the construction of the machine. The second one should be according to the value of the circular saw shaft diameter (10-55 mm)

The cutting depth is straight and at right angles of 90°

This parameter depends directly on the dimensions of the disc used, and if they are small in size, it will be impossible to make an accurate and high-quality cut of the workpiece with large dimensions.

It is necessary to consider that for home use, saws that perform a depth of work of 40-50 mm are useful. If the index is higher, then such a tool is suitable for activities, where the cutting depth directly forms the efficiency and professional quality.

The main part of the saw makes the cut not only straight but also at a 45 degree angle. Recently, tools that cut at an angle of 60° have become available.

Experts recommend to pay attention to the maximum cutting depth at an angle of 90 degrees. This is possible if the saw is moved perpendicular to its surface in series. If the workpiece has a thickness of up to 40 mm, then it is worth choosing a tool with a similar depth.

Types of circular saw blades

The saw blade is produced in several variations, depending on the purpose and the type of material used. They have a similar design, but differ in certain technical and operational aspects.

Depending on the design characteristics, they are classified in two ways:

  • Monolithic disc. Made of high carbon steel, easy-care and low-maintenance. Used mainly for working with low-density materials (soft wood, some types of concrete and cement). Its main disadvantage is that it blunts quickly.
  • Carbide disc. Made of tool steel with tungsten, cobalt and synthetic diamond tips. Characterised by high strength, resistance. Carbide discs are universal, suitable for any material density. Teeth sharpen slower, resulting in smoother, cleaner cuts.
make, stationary, circular, manual

Additional features of circular saws

Circular saws capable of handling complex tasks. To make the work as effective and comfortable as possible, the models are additionally equipped with special features. Their task is to make the work process as neat and easy as possible.

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