How to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain with an angle grinder
How to sharpen the chain of a chainsaw at home properly: round file, angle grinder angle grinder, with a drill, on a machine, PowerSharp
The file can be used to perform the work in question. Use file to remove necessary layer of metal from the surface. A special set was created for this case:
- A round file that has an unusual-looking holder.
- The flat file needed to adjust the depth limit.
- A special template.
A holder with a round file is created along with marking lines that are used to position the tool correctly. The plate itself during the work is in contact with the depth limiter and the surface of the blades, and the file goes and removes a layer of metal. The use of a special file handpiece allows the tool to adhere properly to the surface being worked on. Only a file designed for this kind of work should be used.
The rules for doing the job include:
- Make the same number of movements.
- Control the amount of pressure applied to the surface during machining.
- The template, which is used together with the file, allows you to observe the important indicators of sharpening.
At different lengths there is uneven running and cracking in the material. If the length index is unequal at the moment of cutting, all the cutting teeth are sawn according to the index of the smallest of them.
Repair of ignition system
Childhood disease of the Druzhba 4 chain saw. difficulty in starting the hot engine when stopped at work. The reason is a weak and obsolete ignition system. In order to increase the spark plug power, the ignition must be repaired. This repair will fix the situation even if there is no standard coil.
Step-by-step algorithm for the repair of the ignition of the gasoline tool Druzhba 4
- The high and low voltage windings are removed from the standard ignition coil.
- In place of the low-voltage winding special wire (for transformers) is wound on our coil 250 turns. You can use a wire PEV2, with a cross section of 0.8-1 mm. It is necessary not to forget about the interlayer insulation. a new layer of special wires is laid with paper. The beginning of the whole coil is connected by soldering to the standard output of the magnetic core, and the other end of the coil is connected by a special mounting wire to the chopper. Then the coil is wrapped with insulating tape or another insulator. The section of the capacitor circuit powered by the coil and the breaker is not altered.
- Using two wires through a piece of insulating tube, the connection ends are made. To prevent a short circuit, the entire resulting wiring can be placed in a single insulating tube.
- As a transformer, ignition coil of B-115 type with side resistor removed is ideal. This kind of coil is used in the ignition of the old Soviet Moskvichi. It is not recommended to use motorcycle ignitions, they are not powerful enough to give the necessary spark. The coil can be fixed to the chainsaw frame with a mounting clamp in any suitable place.
- Wires from the internal combustion engines are commuted as follows: the first wire, which connects together the chopper, capacitor and coil output connects to the terminal B-115 with the designation “BK”, the second wire, which goes “from mass” connected to the magneto mounting screw. connects to the terminal B-115 without identifying marks. It is better to use different colored wires for easy reading of the circuit.
- Finally, the ignition coil is switched to the spark plug ignition of the engine with a high voltage wire.
Sharpening the chain of a chainsaw with his own hands. All possible and available ways
“A lumberjack working with a blunt axe was advised: ‘Sharpen your axe.
He replied, “No time. We have to cut the wood. “
Today I decided to tell about a tool, without which, it seems to me, today simply impossible. A good tool must work well, and this largely depends on its owner.
Harvesting the fall garden, preparing firewood for the winter, building a sauna, repairing a wooden fence will require not only time and energy, but also the readiness of the “cutting” tool. If it’s a chainsaw, it needs to be properly sharpened.
Of course, there are paid specialists, and you, for example, have extra money But we know that such a procedure is performed periodically and so there is a natural question: how to sharpen the chain of a chainsaw at home? I’ll tell you about that. Let’s go!
First of all, here’s the scary stuff
You will be sawing with a dull chain saw, you will get three negative factors:
- Reduce the efficiency of your process. For example, instead of two cubes, saw one (in the same time);
- Exposing the mechanism to intense wear and tear, with the risk of destroying the drive sprocket and the tire;
- Get increased fuel consumption;
There is a fourth, perhaps not so important, factor. the “torn” cut.
And of course, you’ll be more tired, you’ll be (probably) angry with yourself, like “why I’m a fool, not to sharpen beforehand, now suffer”
Here’s a test question (photo to the right). Guess what shavings “came out” from under the sharp and blunt chain? (the answer will be below).
How do you know when a chain is blunt?
- Increased physical effort;
- Sagging (stretching) of the chain;
- Vibration and “slowing down” when you’re sawing;
- Inaccurate sawing and change of sawdust appearance (it becomes uneven with sharp “needle-like” edges, fine and dusty). This is the answer to the test.
“According to the experts and me too: well-sharpened teeth, more important than engine power.”
Why is it blunt?? The reasons, in general, are known, but I will name the main ones:
- Intense or voluminous work;
- The accidental contact with a stone, the ground, hard knots, etc.п.;
- Incorrect handling (broad term).
About chainsaw teeth
Chainsaw teeth have a specific geometry. It is necessary to understand and know which part of them is subject to sharpening. In general, the “logic” of cutting wood resembles a planer.
The cutting surface consists of two edges. One lateral, the other slightly beveled. The depth-of-cut limiting element regulates the chip gauge in the thickness of the. Let us have a closer look. The elements of the cutter-worker link are arranged as follows:
- The base with holes for the axle;
- Tooth blade;
- Cutting depth limiter;
- End face of blade (placement. vertical);
- The upper edge of the blade (placement. horizontally);
Edge ground Blunted After touching the ground
After sharpening, the height of the limiter and the angle of the sharpened working edges should not differ too much from the parameters given by the manufacturer. This is an important condition that requires an eye for detail. Otherwise, the saw will not work as it should.
Do not over-grind or change the position of the links. The tool’s satisfactory operation depends on the identity of the links. Otherwise, there is likely to be increased stress on the housing, bar and motor. The cut might be crooked. There is also a small chance that the chain will break.
Working with a file
The best solution is simple “gadgets” for sharpening. This set includes round and flat files, special files, jig-calibre, chip removal hook, etc. The “jigs” may be different by design, but their function is the same.
The diameter of the circular file directly depends on the size of the chain:
- – Chains with ø 1,3. require a ø 4 mm file (used much more often);
- – Chains with ø 1,6. require a file of ø 5,2 mm;
- – To sharpen the depth stop, use a flat file.
- With the chain brake on, clamp the guide bar firmly in a vice (a firmly clamped saw is the key to successful sharpening)
- Position the template with the arrow pointing toward the nose of the guide bar. Be sure to mark (maybe with chalk) the tooth where you started sharpening, otherwise you may go a second round;
- Grind in the direction of the arrows. Remember, each tooth of the chain has a special factory notch. It indicates the maximum sharpening angle.
- Except for the cutting tooth, there are limiters on each link. These are sharpened as needed. This is necessary if the height of the tooth is reduced as a result of sharpening and the chainsaw has problems in operation. As a rule, the limiter is sharpened after 2-3 sharpening teeth;
“If you are not skilled in sharpening, it is better to start with an inexpensive chain.”.
- A file must not go over the top of the cutting edge, over 1/5 of a file’s working part. Pressure is applied with equal force;
- The sharpening tool is moved to one side “from yourself”, and the number of movements for each tooth must be equal;
- files need to be at right angles to be able to sharpen a vertical file;
- To sharpen the horizontal plane, position the file at an angle of 20-30°
- If there are teeth of different heights, the smallest one is the reference point.
Strengths: Ability to “sharpen the saw” in the field. And it’s cheap.
Drawbacks: Takes time and effort. It quickly “kills” a file. Speaking of files: better to pay a little more and get a quality product, than to buy for 40-50 and throw it away after the first sharpening (tested in practice). Also, if the chain has “ploughed” the soil so well that its cutting edge has changed its original shape, it’s hard and not fast at all to sharpen it with a file.
Sharpening with an angle grinder
Professionals consider this work, primitive. There’s a risk of damaging the bar, and not only that.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands. step by step instructions and useful tips
Proper chain sharpening with your own hands, detailed video and text instruction. these are the main conditions for easy work and serviceability of the tool.
Nowadays it is very easy to sharpen chainsaws, because new models are bought with a sharpening attachment. In fact, similar round files with rulers are a tool for sharpening the chain.
It is desirable to grind or resharpen the angles in a workshop or on an exposed machine.
A chainsaw chain needs to be sharpened and straightened after the first chipping during operation. When the chain teeth are in normal, working condition, the sawdust comes out fine. You can see with the naked eye that they are cut, not ripped out of the fibers.
But after a cube or two or three, the chip starts to tear, which is acceptable for longitudinal sawing, but not for cross cutting. And this is the main cue for machining the chain. In this case it is enough to use a file with a ruler (aka file), and bring (but not sharpen) each tooth to the right angle.
There are several handy and relatively affordable tools for the job. Let’s list the technical component:
- Files on a stand. It’s the diameter of the hand tool that counts. For example, a “fourth” file is needed for a 1.3 mm chain. For a 1.6 mm chain, you already need a 5.2 mm diameter. Nothing complicated.
- Template. A simple attachment for observing angles.
- Manual machine. We are talking about a clamp. The easiest, and most convenient, to take a vise to fix the individual sections of the blade.
- Automatic electric machine. Ensures precise machining, a kind of “tuning” of the chain of any format that has been “killed” in the working processes. Sharpening machines. this is an industrial device. They are used in places where chains are referred to restoration and sharpening. Therefore, the required angle on each of the teeth will be honed for sure.
- angle grinder with a nozzle. This is a device on the accuracy between the file and automatic electronic machine. Consider in detail how to work with such a device, because the angle grinder is in every household home.
Step by step instruction
To invent other purposes for the angle grinder. it’s a real challenge for every craftsman at home. And if there is a quality unit, then why buy a professional installation? It’s expensive, plus there are a lot of attachments on the angle grinder.
It is important to understand that without experience in such work, there is a risk of spoiling the cutting edge, and to suffer because of this associated problems.
So read the instructions and follow these recommendations:
- To grind with an angle grinder, you do not need to remove the chain from the work blade.
- In the work you will need an ordinary cutting disc for 2.5, but not new, and already used.
- Such a disk has acquired natural roundness, and for a chain it is the most important. You have to use an angle grinder with a 2.5 disc “by eye”. Yes, no need for stencils and templates. Simply look at the available angle and stick to it. An elementary skill for all field conditions.
- If to work on a chain without fanaticism, the factory quality of sharpening will come out. And there will be 4 to 8 such processes, depending on the material.
This is the most budgetary, and, therefore, the people’s method of preparing the chain. But it is important to observe the general workings (rules) for any approach. They go like this:
- The sharpness of the corners should be the same as the factory sharpness. All kerf stops should remain as they were originally.
- Keep an eye on the size of the teeth. They should, of course, be the same. Otherwise the fuel consumption will not increase, but the performance will decrease. It is not so easy to see the difference in sizes of teeth by eye as it is in the saw. Flawed chains will “beat” the operator’s hand, and even a beginner will notice it. And if there is imbalance in the saw, then there is a probability that the saw breaks, which is quite dangerous even for expensive, well-thought-out imported model.
- The teeth themselves are sharp enough but fragile. That’s why you shouldn’t get carried away with every tooth you sharpen, without heating up the metal alloy too much.
Even a small garden tool needs to be sharpened in good time. Because both the force to be applied and the speed to be worked depend on the cutting ability. The tool needs the sharpening angles that were originally set. But often worn chains are re-sharpened for the rip-cut. This can be done with the same angle grinder.
Listed above are all the modern methods of sharpening, both professional and primitive. And if there are doubts about the work with the angle grinder, it is better often to sharpen the saw with the right file according to the mold, or give to craftsmen with a reputation. It is equally important to pay attention to oil supply and processed material, but this is another issue, and is indirectly related to sharpening.
Types of saw chain sharpening
There are a number of tire sharpening techniques. In the field or at home you can use an angle grinder or file. This method is suitable for budget models of chain saws, when high accuracy of setting the teeth is not required. The main disadvantage of this method. the need to control the mechanical pressure on the hand tool, if you increase the pressure can remove the extra layer of metal, deforming the teeth.
Professionals recommend using special machines for primary sharpening, and then a vise with guides for grinding, correcting each link. This method saves time and with toolholders adapted to the chain pitch, the risk of mistakes is minimal.
How to sharpen with special equipment?
The most convenient way to sharpen a saw is using special tools and machines. This allows work of any severity to be carried out quickly. When buying a chainsaw, it is recommended to buy a template at once to determine the values of the end and upper blade, the front angle of the edge. In addition, you need a file to fix minor imperfections.
Important! All the necessary tools, depending on the chosen method, must be prepared in advance. This will simplify the performance of the work, increasing the accuracy of sharpening.
On the manual machine tool
Figure 2. Sharpening on a manual machine In practice, this method is usually used for straightening the teeth after every long term use of the chainsaw, working with hard types of wood. “Manual machine” externally resembles an ordinary beam saw with a small vise for attachment to the headset. A circular file is placed on it instead of the blade.
Before you start work, it is necessary to secure the tool on the headset, set the parameters in accordance with the features of the saw. This is done only by hand according to specific marks on the machine. Stopping at each blade, make 3-4 movements on themselves for sharpening. This method is not suitable for restoring severely blunt saws.
On an electric machine
Electric sharpening machine for sharpening the chain saw bar of any brand This is the most convenient way to sharpen the bar of any brand of chain saw. No special skills and abilities are required, the process of work takes no more than 10 minutes. The machine is equipped with an electric drive, operates from a direct current source of 220-240 V. When choosing a device, pay attention to the following features:
- Availability of teeth sharpening function with different intervals of links, the volume of the upper edge;
- possibility of correcting the grinding angle;
- interchangeable grinding wheels are included;
- stable cutting width.
the saw chain is fixed in the guide rail as part of the base plate, and there is also a special mechanism to hold the teeth. It can move horizontally. Grinding wheel is lowered at an adjustable angle to the cutting edge; the degree of pressure can be checked with a regulator. The sharpening head is plunged by the operator. For convenience and accuracy, all models are equipped with a measuring scale that enables the degree of sharpening of all chain teeth to be assessed.
This method is used only if no other necessary devices are available to correct the chain. Optimal for rough dressing of teeth, but has a serious disadvantage. it is difficult to control the angle, and there is a risk of damaging the bonding rivets.
To sharpen the chain, the angle grinder must be clamped firmly in a vice. turn on the tool, and then bring each cutting edge in turn and hold it until it shines. Verify the required angle with a caliper.
Important! When using an angle grinder, the chain should always be oiled. This will help avoid too much grinding of the cutting edge, burrs and other mechanical defects of the metal.
Angle of sharpening on the machine
On a quality tool, there is always a marking with which you can assess the quality of sharpening. When working, you need to focus on its performance in order to maintain the performance of the headset. The table shows the basic characteristics of the teeth depending on the chain pitch and the link features.
Figure 4. Recommendations for sharpening depending on the parameters of the chain
How to properly sharpen a chainsaw
Timely and competent sharpening with their own hands the chain for a chainsaw will not only prolong the time of use of the device, but also save effort and time on the processing of wood. Signs of a sharp chain is the formation of equally sized sawdust in a regular geometric shape. To ensure the desired level of sharpness of the teeth fit any device for sharpening chainsaw chains, for example, any sharpening tool. Such tools include a file, angle grinder, and machine.
Sharpening with a file
This method is appreciated for the possibility to perform work in any, even field conditions, simplicity of the procedure and lack of need for expensive tools. To properly sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file will help the tool exclusively with a circular cross-section. To determine the parameters of the file you need to know the dimensions of the saw itself, in particular it is required to determine the pitch of the teeth. To process the sawing depth limiter of the guide tooth, it is allowed to use a flat variation.
Templates or templates will give the right direction to the tool and can make the job easier. They need to be mounted on the area to be sharpened. After the preparatory work is done, you can proceed directly to the procedure according to the recommendations of the specialists:
- Clamp the chain to the clamp.
- Align the file for sharpening the chain with the template.
- Grind the teeth pointing in one direction at the chosen angle. The last one should not change. The tool itself should be held so that the tip protrudes only a fifth of its thickness. The file should be moved as smoothly as possible, the movements should not be violent. The reverse should be done in an idle motion. It is advisable to rotate the tool periodically, which will reduce the risk of wear on the sharpening side.
- The angle of the tool must be straight and the angle of the chainsaw chain must be sharp, adjustable between 10° and 30° horizontally. Use the smallest tooth in the row as the base.
- Turn the bar over and do the same for the teeth that go in the opposite direction.
This method also has some small disadvantages. In particular, time-consuming work is necessary. But you don’t need to buy expensive equipment or special tools.
How to sharpen with an angle grinder
When sharpening a chainsaw chain with an angle grinder it is necessary to constantly control the level of sharpness of the chain, treat the drive sprocket with machine oil. In this case, this method has one significant advantage. there is no need to remove the chain headset from the saw, you can visually select the sharpening angle.
Although many owners of chainsaws and motor saws believe that this tool can damage the chain’s cutting teeth, but if the work is performed by an experienced specialist, the risk is minimal.
Only a special disk for working with metal is suitable. It should be at least 2,5 mm in diameter. It is advisable to choose a disc with rounded edges that has already been used.
Before you start sharpening, a wedge of wood must be inserted between the chain and the bottom of the bar to prevent the bar from moving.
Chainsaw chain design
The chainsaw chain is quite simple. It consists of alternating steel teeth on the left and right, held together by connecting pieces. Steel is coated with a layer of chromium to increase tool life. The cutting link includes the following elements:
The tooth blade has a vertically arranged end blade and a horizontally arranged receding upper blade. To get the best performance from it, the tooth blades should be given the right angles. The tapered backward direction of the tooth blade forms the angle of the top blade that is needed to cut laterally the chips that fly out from under the chainsaw. The angled back of the tooth determines the angle of the upper blade required to penetrate the wood.
The chain’s sharpening angle can vary according to the chain’s intended use. The main principle is that the larger the angle, the higher the efficiency is achieved when sawing soft, non-frozen wood. When the angle is reduced, the vibration when sawing hard and frozen wood is reduced and the tool runs smoother. the angle must not exceed thirty-five degrees or fall below twenty-five degrees. An exception is made for chains used for rip sawing, for which the angle is ten degrees.
all chain links have a kerf stop in front of the tooth blades. The height distance between the cutter lips and the tooth is called the kerf distance. It determines the penetration depth of the upper blade into the wood and therefore the efficiency of the tool. Its value should range from 0.5 to 0.8 mm, usually 0.6 mm. As the clearance of the kerf decreases with each sharpening of the chainsaw, it must be resharpened regularly. every ten sharpenings.
In addition, all links of the same chain must have the same dimensions. Otherwise the tool will be less effective and the vibration and stress on the motor will increase.
Sharpening with a file
To sharpen the chain of a chainsaw you need a set of flat and round files as well as a special hook to remove sawdust from the saw chain. Using such a set requires special skills, so it is better not to sharpen an expensive chain yourself without them. Before sharpening your chainsaw chain you should secure the bar. Files should be selected according to the type of chain and the chain pitch as the main criterion. Use flat files 4-12 mm wide to remove the reference tooth. Use round files 3-6 mm in diameter to sharpen the cutting tooth.
The sharpening process consists of the following steps:
- First fit the chain brake.
- Then the template is set so that the “arrows” point to the “nose” of the bar. Make a chalk mark on the first tooth to be machined.
- The file is moved in a “backward” motion in the direction of the arrows.
- The reference tooth is removed using a flat file and a shim. The tool can be moved in any direction.
The following requirements must be met when performing the work:
- The file should be sharpened so that it projects a fifth of its length over the cutting edge.
- The file should move in one direction, not back and forth.
- The kerf should be resharpened every two or three sharpenings.
Using a hand tool
Once the cutting edge of the chain has completely lost its original shape, it is too time-consuming and labor-intensive to file it. Chain sharpening machines for chain saws are used in such situations. Sharpening with a handheld machine consists of performing the following steps:
- First of all, the screw that regulates the chain clamp must be loosened slightly.
- The chain is inserted in the guide slot in such a way that the chain links face the sharpening stone.
- Adjust the desired sharpening angle to the intended use of the chain.
- Grinding in one of two ways. One of these consists of sharpening the picks in sequence with constant polarity reversal. The second involves the sharpening of every other pick: First the left-hand picks are sharpened, then the right-hand picks, or vice versa. In the latter method, no polarity reversal is necessary, which makes sharpening far faster.
Set the desired sharpening level by using the most sharpened tooth as a guide. Do not grind too deep, since this reduces the strength of the link.
Grinding with an angle grinder
Most chainsaw owners try to avoid using an angle grinder to sharpen the chain, because this tool can cause quite severe damage to the cutting teeth. Besides, this grinding method is the most complicated one among all the existing ones, because it is impossible to fix the angle grinder in the template, which makes it extremely difficult to control the grinding depth and to maintain a constant angle. If you do choose this method, the following rules must be observed. First, the bar with the tensioned chain must be firmly clamped in a vise in order to ensure its complete immobility during all operations. Secondly, it is unacceptable to use a new disc for sharpening, because its edges are too straight, which will inevitably lead to the formation of kerf marks on the metal. Only a previously used disc with rounded edges should be used. The advantage of using an angle grinder for chain saw sharpening is its high efficiency. However, this method requires special skills in handling this tool, otherwise you can ruin everything.
Important rules for sharpening the chain
To properly sharpen the chain of an electric or gasoline-powered saw yourself at home or at work, you need to follow some simple rules:
- When sharpening with a file, the number of strokes must be the same for all teeth of the cutting part.
- Maintaining the sharpening angle is only possible with a special device or machine.
- If you sharpen more than 90 percent of the teeth, replace the cutting part with a new one.
- A sharpening file is only recommended if the chain teeth are not too dull.
Important! If the cutting parts of the chain are ground too severely, it can break during operation. Failure during the sawing process can cause the saw to jerk violently, and consequently cause a person to fall on the running machine.
The chain of a chainsaw must be sharpened according to the rules
Tips from the sharpening experts
In order for the tool to last longer, it is recommended to listen to the advice of experts on how to properly care for your chainsaw and sharpen the chain. To increase the period of operation without sharpening, you need to observe the following rules in relation to the tool:
- Check regularly the oil level in the oil tank that lubricates the chain. Use a quality product that is diluted with gasoline in the ratio of 1:50.
- When sharpening, it is recommended to alternate the methods with the angle grinder and the grinder, it will help to avoid nicks on the metal and then the chain saw will serve longer in working condition.
- Always make sure the chain is well tensioned when you’re sawing.
- Sometimes it is necessary to change the position of the tire, turning it 180 degrees. This avoids one-sided abrasion.