How to remove a chuck from a Makita rotary hammer
Disassembly of the Makita 2450 Peorator Barrel
Due to the ingress of dust, dirt and moisture, the internal lubricant eventually becomes hard and does not perform its purpose. Peorator begins to run with extraneous noise. When you begin repairing the peorator, be sure to read the included instructions for disassembly, lubrication, and reassembly of the Makita 2450, 2470 peorator assemblies. The diagram of the Makita 2450 and 2470 will help you properly disassemble the faulty assemblies, find the defective parts. We will also tell you how to disassemble the Makita 2450.
Disassembly of the Makita 2470 Peorator begins with removing the mode switch knob.
Chuck and its function on the screamer
The main purpose of the chuck on a power tool is to hold the tool bits in place when performing the corresponding work. This part is also called an actuator, because at the expense of this device there is a transfer of torque, as well as reciprocating manipulation from the tool gearbox.
Chucks on peorators and power drills are different, although their purpose is almost the same. The drill is approved for use with the machine for drilling holes in concrete slabs. The power tool under consideration perfectly copes with such tasks as drilling holes in wood or metal, switching the tool to drill mode. But not many people know why a drill is fitted with a collet device, but not with a drill bit.
So, a drill is used for drilling in metal and wood. Impact drills have a primitive percussion mechanism in their design, which is why the tool also copes with strong concrete bases. For drilling metal and wood, there is no need for a fixed bit, a drill bit, to move or vibrate in the actuator. This is why drilling in concrete with a drill is not as efficient as with a peorator.
Peorator chuck mechanism does not allow for easy attachment of working tools. These nozzles are not fixed as in a collet mechanism, so they move some distance during operation. This makes it possible to achieve high efficiency in crushing concrete substrates. Impact action does not act on the chuck itself, but only on the working nozzle. As a result, it is possible to achieve the result of drilling holes in concrete, not only quickly, but also much easier.
On the considered power tools different types of chucks are mounted, so before you buy a new actuator for your power tool, you need to clarify their classification. How to replace, we will describe in detail in the article, but to buy a chuck for a torch you can in the online store “Cylinder”. Our store works all over Ukraine, so you can order cartridges for a torch right now, selecting the appropriate model, and ordering delivery to your region.
How to remove the nozzle from the peorator
In most tools, quick-action chucks of SDS-plus or SDS type are used for fixing the working attachment, in professional tools. SDS-max is often encountered. They differ in quantity of longitudinal grooves and drilling displacement distance. Drill bits are pulled out of the chuck of any geared tool: Bosch, Makita, Zenit in the same way.
Important ! Before removing the chuck, you should always apply a lubricant, such as the common synthetic grease WD-40, and then wait at least 10 minutes to allow the substance to penetrate to the bit.
- Always unplug the power tool from the plug or extension cord and disconnect the unit from the power grid.
- Lower part of the chuck or rear coupling is deflected to the side of the peorator in the fastening axis.
- With the other hand, the drill bit is removed from the head without great physical effort.
- The rear coupling is releasing.
It will return to its original place on its own.
When the chuck is pulled back, the fixing or locking balls pop out of the milled closed slots or grooves on the drill bit, and the bit is released.
If the nozzle cannot be removed, then the drill bit is jammed. Its shank is most likely mechanically damaged: twisted, bent, cracked.
What cartridges for torch cutters are available?
There are different kinds of chucks for rotary tool, each variant has some differences.
- SDS. Detail of this kind appeared relatively recently, but it is considered the most optimal variant for tools of this type. Equipped with five types of clamping devices. normal, top, quick, plus, max.
- Toothed-ring key. Classic chuck design. You will need a special wrench to help you secure the working nozzle. It is used for compressing and unclamping the locking mechanism. It is considered very reliable.
- Quick-clamping. Are distinguished by their ease of use. You just need to clamp the mechanism of the product and you can start working.
- Clamping with one clutch. Such chucks are installed only on peorator models, where there is an automatic locking of working shaft. As a result, the shank of the bit is simply clamped by manually rotating a special sleeve.
- Transitional. The torch is often used with different attachments, so special adapters are needed. Thanks to these elements it is possible to use the tool in various spheres.
Be very careful not to lose any parts during the procedure
Order of disassembly of the peorator
Lay the torch on a clean surface.
Always remove the mode switch handle when disassembling the mechanics of a Makita 2450 or Makita 2470.
At the beginning of the work set the handle in “Knock” mode (extreme clockwise position to the right). Undo and remove the catch on the handle with a screwdriver. After removing the latch, move the handle to the leftmost position, “Drill” mode. Use your fingers to grip the handle and remove it from the groove in the housing.
To install the mode switch in the housing, it is necessary to perform some actions: to insert the switch in the “drilling” position into the seat until it clicks; to move the switch counterclockwise to the “impact” position; to move the switch with a click counterclockwise to the “drilling” position; to insert the spring and the red button; to insert the overlay until it locks. The mode switch is assembled.
The second step is to disassemble the quick-release chuck and perform the repair of the peorator chuck with your own hands. By the way, the chuck only requires disassembly on the Makita 2470. The unit of the chuck is simple enough and any person with a little knowledge of locksmith skills can cope with its repair.
For professionals, replacement or repair of the chuck is not difficult. But what to do those who are not engaged in construction and repair at a professional level? Since any man in his life at least once held a drill in his hands, he should be aware of the process of removing as well as replacing its chuck. In this case, the causes may be very different, ranging from the slow operation of the toothed rim to a major breakdown. How to change the cartridge on the peorator? Let’s consider the replacement in more detail.
The first step is to determine which chuck is used directly in your peorator. They come in cam, collet SDS, and quick-clamp. The latter, in turn, are available as single- and double-barrelled. In the cam chuck the drill is fixed with a wrench, which cannot be said about the collet SDS and quick-clamp. To replace the drill bit in the collet SDS chuck, you only need to turn it.
Chuck change on the peorator begins with the examination of the fasteners. It can be held in place by a twist pin or a spindle. In most cases the chuck can be removed easily. However, sometimes there is a stronger fixation, which will require patience and additional tools. The simple version is to remove the firmly fixed chuck using a hammer, spanner and screwdriver. The removal process is as follows:
Removing the chuck: a Makita electric screwdriver
Makita brand power tools are usually equipped with a threaded mount with an auxiliary fixation by means of a left-hand threaded screw.
- Unscrew the retaining screw (clockwise).
- Activate the spindle stop button.
- Wrap a thick cloth around the body and put it in a vice.
- Clamp the hexagon in the jaws.
- By hitting the free plane of the wrench with a hammer, the chuck is rotated and then retracted from the shaft.
Remove the cartridge
Depending on how the cartridge mechanism is attached, the methods of disassembly will differ.
Screw in the threaded joint
To disassemble it, proceed as follows.
- Carefully unscrew the locking screw.
- Unscrew the chuck counterclockwise, if the threads are tightened well, clamp the tool shaft in a vise. Use a pipe wrench to unscrew it. Then remove the device and examine it for integrity and serviceability.
- If the drill bit is jammed in the jaws, then apply not strong, but accurate blows with a hammer on the cams from above.
Reassemble in the reverse order. When screwing in a new device, the shaft must be secured against turning with the free hand. Lastly screw in the locking device. For the do-it-yourselfer
It is quite easy to remove the chuck from the tapered part of the shaft. In the set of a drill should be a special device for these purposes, but many experienced craftsmen use this method: turn the tool down, fix it and uniform blows with a hammer on the back of the device is knocked out of the shaft.
After dismantling need to grind the cone surfaces with an emery cloth, if there are scratches on the surface remove them with a file. The new chuck is put in place even more easily. by hammering with a mallet on top of it, it is pressed tightly into place.
Users need to remember that the removal of a drill bit or other nozzle when they are jammed in the chuck requires certain skills and ability to handle locksmith tools, but in any case it is necessary to dismantle the device. If the chuck on the drill is out of order, it must be replaced.
Design of a drill chuck. what manufacturers are hiding?
You must be particularly interested in the design of the rotary chuck when selecting the tool. It influences which bits you can use in the future, how easily you can change them and how quickly the tool can be repaired when necessary.
Peorator cartridge design. what’s inside?
The history of the evolution of the drill chuck goes back to the 1930s, when the first drill chuck was developed and produced by the famous Bosch company. The combination of torque and impulse drilling appealed to users predictably, and the tool hasn’t left the shelves since. But at first, consumers had to put up with certain drawbacks.
The weak link in particular was the chuck, because percussive drilling had a devastating effect on this. Manufacturers have gone by the way of simplification. the simpler the device of the screwdriver chuck, the stronger the part will be. Today you can find three types of cartridges on the peorators, which in turn are divided into subtypes.
- Key chuck (toothed, cam). tool bit is fastened using special key that brings together and separates “fingers” inside the chuck that fasten pin. The advantage of such a chuck is the high reliability of fixing. But it takes much longer to change the bit than with the other types.
- Quick-action chuck (QA). the bit is clamped with the effort of only your hands. There are two subtypes of these devices. double-clutch and single-clutch. In the first case, one hand holds the rear clutch and the other unscrews the front clutch. It’s even easier in a single-feed chuck. one handed effort is enough. However, it only applies to drills with automatic shaft locking.
Steck, Dreh, Sitzt. insert, turn, fasten!
In the 1980s, Bosch once again proved that all ingenious things are simple! Their engineers introduced a conceptually new fastening mechanism, now known by the abbreviation SDS. It stands for “steck, dreh, sitzt”, which is translated from German into Russian as “put, twist, fixed”. Not surprisingly, almost 90% of today’s torches are equipped with this type of chuck. It is also called a “quick-action chuck,” which is why many users confuse it with products that clamp accessories by rotating sleeves. the SDS chuck only needs to be held in place!
About the design and operating principle of the SDS system you will tell the drills themselves, or rather, the structural structure of their shanks. You find four grooves on them, two of which are open at the front and two of which are closed. The role of the open ones is to be guides for the insertion of the bits, and the closed recesses fix the tool, for which there are special balls in the chuck. Inserted drill bit on rails, it needs to be slightly rotated to get the balls into the closed slots, and at this point the process of fixing the nozzle is complete.
For easier penetration of the drill inside the fastener, it is recommended to grease it a little. It should be noted that with this method of fastening the nozzle has a slight radial run-out, which appears in idle running. But it does not affect the accuracy of drilling the hole. However, this free movement of the nozzle inside the fastener separates the chuck from the impact that the drills or drills themselves are subjected to.
SDS-max drill bits. types and application
In turn, SDS-fasteners are divided into five different types, which differ from each other by different diameters of landing rods. Besides SDS bits, there are also SDS-plus and SDS-max. Intermediate variants. SDS-top and SDS-quick. The most common type is SDS-plus, which is designed for drill bits with a shank diameter of 10 mm. Shank goes into the fastener for 40 mm, then starts the working area, which diameter can be from 4 mm to 26 mm.
Maximum allowable chisel length for SDS-plus type chisel shank is 1 m. The most common nozzle diameters are represented in the range from 6 mm to 12 mm. This type of fasteners is presented on the light and medium class peorators that are in high demand in everyday life and are sold each year in millions of copies. For your reference, the light category includes tools weighing up to 3 kg, while the medium category ranges from 3 kg to 5 kg, not counting the weight of the bits. They are designed for a shock load of up to 5 J. The professional heavy torches from 5 kg can give out up to 30 Joules of impact force! Accordingly, productivity of professional aggregates is many times higher.
Only SDS-max shank type fastener can hold the bit in such a case. It is distinguished by a larger shank diameter of 18 mm, as well as the presence of an additional guide slot. Accordingly, the diameter of the working part of the nozzle increases to 60 mm. Such construction equipment should be purchased only if you plan to use it permanently. True, get ready for the fact that the cost of the unit will significantly reduce your wallet, but these costs will pay for themselves. the torch will work very long and of high quality. It is better to buy a proven brand.
Disassembling and assembling a chuck for a peorator
Inspect and clean the parts from time to time to avoid more significant problems and to simplify the operation. Sometimes it is even necessary to make minor repairs, such as replacing a spring. All these operations can be carried out by each person, even if he isn’t technically proficient. Generally, SDS-machines in their design are not very different, even from different manufacturers.