How to remove the chuck from a Bosch rotary hammer
How to remove the cartridge from the peorator
Almost everyone has a drill. The tool helps to drill a hole on any surface. And therefore, it is not replaceable in construction and finishing works, any kind of repair of the room. Reliable and trouble-free operation of the device is ensured by a chuck, in which a drill, drill bit or chisel is attached. This is the element that most often fails when you use the tool for a long time. Accordingly, it is important to choose the right chuck for the drill bit, to be able to remove, replace the clamping device.
Chuck: The simple design ensures long service life
The first drill chuck was developed in the 1930s by the German company Bosh. Skilled craftsmen immediately fell in love with the machine. they appreciated its versatility and indispensability. After all, the tool does not just drill a hole. The pulse-like chiselling it provides makes the work faster and easier.
The drill chuck is used to fasten the drill bit to the rotary table
The drill bit or drill bit chuck plays an important part in the tool design. But it is the drill chuck that turns out to be the most unreliable component. It fails quickly because it is the one that receives most of the impact force.
After some experiments, the manufacturers realized that the simple design of the peorator chuck is a guarantee of long life of the element, less exposed to destruction during operation. That’s why three basic types of this part have been experimentally developed.
The toothed-ring type
Considered to be the classic type. Also known as a wrench. And they are called key for a reason. To use it, you need a wrench to help you fasten the working head. This wrench compresses and unclenches the fastening mechanism inside the part. Like fingers in a fist. unclenching and clenching, so this type is sometimes called cam. These tines clamp the core of the drill bit. This type of clamping is considered very reliable.
The drill is fastened to the chuck with a chuck wrench
To change the drill, drill bit, chisel in this type of chuck for the peorator requires not only a special wrench, also a certain amount of time. This type of clamping element can be a bit tricky. Cam clamping devices work with drills with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank.
Tip: Attach a chuck wrench to the tool cord. This way you won’t lose your wrench and will always have it handy.
up to several thousand. Price depends on the element diameter (10, 13, 16 millimeters).
These parts made by the German company “HORTZ” have proven themselves well. Some of them are produced with “Pro” marking, they are intended for professionals.
Another German company “MATRIX” produces gear-ring clamping devices. But on the Russian market they are supplied by Chinese factories. ATAKA” chuck is suitable for various types of drills. These products are domestically made, although they are often manufactured by the Chinese.
This type of chuck is easy to use on the rotary tool. And it does not require a special wrench to work with it. It is enough to clamp the mechanism of the device with your hands, and the nozzle is ready to work. Clamping chuck for rotary tool is available in two types: one- or two-coupling.
The quick-action chuck is very easy to fit on the rotary bolt
One hand and no extra effort. This is the principle of single-rod clamping devices. They can only be installed on drills where automatic locking of the working shaft is technically implemented. The principle of the device is simple. The shank of the bit is clamped by manually rotating an adjusting sleeve. Turn it a few times. and it’s done.
The two-coupling analog is more difficult for the handyman to cope with. Both hands are used for the number of sockets. When rotating the front coupling clockwise, the rear coupling must be kept stationary.
The disadvantage of this type of clamping element is that it does not reliably hold drills with large diameters during prolonged use. Correspondingly, the tool can rotate during drilling, which affects the quality and speed of the work. The quick-clamping element perfectly secures nozzles from 1 to 25mm in diameter.
The leading manufacturers of quick clamping devices are considered to be “Bosch“, “HAMMER“, “DREMEL”, “FIT”.
The choice of the specific model of clamping adaptor depends on the kind of work that will be carried out with the drill, as well as on the model and capabilities of the tool itself.
SDS-clamping: Insert, turn, clamp
This type of clamping device appeared relatively recently. in the 1980s. And it is regarded as the optimal attachment for rotary tools. Accordingly, most tools are equipped with it.
Peorator sds chuck is reliable in work, easy to handle
Sds chuck has a number of advantages. Reliable drill mount that is secured by two guiding wedges, two locking balls. Simple and safe operation of the clamping tool. Perfect matching of torque and impact force.
Clamping devices of this type come in five types. ordinary and with special categories:
Sds-plus parts are in the highest demand. The drill shank has a diameter of 10 millimeters. They are used in tools for drilling in the light and medium categories. These are often found among the tools of ordinary men. They are preferred by small teams of finishers.
Replacing a clamp: a few simple steps
If the drill fails during operation, the drill bit rotates, it is necessary to replace the clamping element on the tool. For this it is important to determine its type. After all, it depends on how the element is mounted. As a rule, the device is mounted on a spindle or screw rod. In this case, changing the chuck on a peorator is not a big deal. Turn it and it’s done.
If it is used to firmly fix the part, additional tools are needed. Knock on the screw head with a hammer. This simple action loosens the secure hold. Screw pin is unscrewed with a screwdriver. If the element is attached to the spindle, use a wrench to clamp the element, twist the spindle. So that’s the answer to how to remove the chuck from the drill bit.
Chuck and its function on a power tool
Main purpose of a chuck on a power tool is to fix nozzles while performing corresponding jobs. This part is also called an actuator, because due to this device, the torque is transmitted, as well as reciprocating manipulation from the tool’s gearbox.
The chucks on peorators and power drills are different, although their purpose is almost the same. The drill, like the rotary tool, can be used for drilling holes in concrete foundations. The power tool in question is excellent for tasks such as drilling holes in wood or metal by switching the tool to drill mode. However, not many people know why a drill is equipped with a collet device, and the drill is of the insertion type.
So, a drill is used for drilling in metal and wood. Impact drills have a primitive percussion mechanism in their design, which is why the tool also copes with strong concrete bases. In metal and wood drilling, there is no need for the fastened drill bit to move or vibrate in the drill actuator. That’s why you can’t drill as effectively into the concrete as you can with a peorator.
The chuck mechanism of the peorator allows more than just attachment of working tools. These tools are not fixed in place as in a collet mechanism, so they move over a certain distance when working. This makes it possible to achieve high efficiency when crushing concrete bases. The impact action does not act on the chuck itself, but only on the working head. The result is not only quick drilling results in concrete, but also much easier.
There are different types of chucks mounted on the power tools in question, so before you buy a new actuator for your power tool, you need to clarify their classification. How to perform a replacement, we will describe in detail in the article, and to buy a cartridge for a torch you can in the online store “Cylinder”. Our store operates all over Ukraine, so you can order chucks for a torch chuck right now, selecting the appropriate models and ordering delivery to your location.
Ways to remove a quick-action chuck from a drill or electric screwdriver
The chuck is fastened on the axis of the thread and locked with a clamping screw. Quick-action chuck is removed according to the same algorithm as the cam chuck. First unscrew the locking screw clockwise. If you have key flats on a shaft near the chuck, put the key in the grooves, clamping in the chuck some kind of lever, try to unscrew the chuck by rotating it counterclockwise. Installation of a new chuck is done in reverse order.
But the chuck can also be repaired. In order to inspect the details of the chuck, it must be disassembled. Here is a proven and reliable way to disassemble an electric drill chuck.
Take an ordinary torch, remove the duster from it and insert the adapter. The adapter can be made from a defective impact drill. The adapter is the drill bit shank with cut drill bit part. Put the cartridge on the shaft of the adapter and press it with a rubber buffer or a wooden board. Before installing the chuck to the adapter, you must drive the cams inside the chuck until they are fully immersed.
After assembling the construction, switch on the rotary bolt in impact mode. In 35 seconds the chuck must be disassembled. At once it is necessary to mark cams and places of their location with different color. You can now proceed to inspect and defect the cartridge. If necessary the jaws can be replaced with new ones. True, you can’t do without additional boring of the cams on the lathe. The other parts can easily be replaced if available.
But there are also other mechanical faults There are cases where an electric drill fails due to a gearbox failure or poor bearing operation.
Working with the gearbox of an electric drill To get to the gearbox, you must disassemble the plastic housing of the electric drill. After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. The larger diameter idler pinion is mounted on the shaft. Small-diameter spiral drive pinion is mounted on the motor shaft. There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, which is the most common cause of failure of the drill. This is due to its considerable wear and tear. Check the dimensions of the bushing and order a turner. The material is bronze, but it is also possible to use caprolon. When replacing the hub in the gearbox, be sure to check the bearings, their seating tightness and their packing with grease. If the gear teeth are heavily worn, they need to be replaced. Gear teeth are worn out when the bearing sleeve fails. The larger diameter idler is worn most often. Its replacement is simple, you just have to remove the retaining ring and the key. The old gear must be removed from the chuck axle. You can use a puller, or you can just gently tap it with a hammer on wooden supports.
Electrical faults Let’s now look at the typical electrical faults of the drill. often than not the operation of an electric drill is interrupted by the wear of the brushes.
1.To replace the brushes in the electric drill you need to remove the side cover of the electric drill housing by removing the mounting screws. There should be at least 7 of them. The housing is removed by carefully prying at the edges with a screwdriver. After opening the access to the electric motor you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed. To pull out the brushes you need to open the brush holder, unscrew the two housings and pull out the worn out brush. Proceed in the same way with the second brush. Install new brushes in the vacant places, wipe the near contact area with a clean cloth soaked in white spirit.
2.Repairing the power cord of an electric drill One of the unpleasant faults is the intermittent stoppage of the electric drill during work. Most often this happens because of an arbitrary loss of power. And the thing is that when the power cable enters the body of the drill, it is subjected to various stresses, which leads to a breakage of the wires.
Remove one of the side covers from the chassis to solve the problem. Using a tester, check the integrity of the cable. If at the point of entry of the cable into the body is found to be damaged, but from the cable cut off a piece of damaged cable, a piece of 20 cm piece of rigid chlorvinyl tube is put on the cable and the cable is installed in place and then connected.
To replace the button with a speed regulator is enough to remove the housing cover, disconnect the wires from the regulator. The new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before you remove the old regulator, you need to sketch a wiring diagram.
3.Sparks inside the case Sparks inside the case are often caused by an inter-turn short circuit in the armature windings. Second cause of arcing is a dirty surface of the collector fins. Intercircuit connections can only be detected with a special instrument. But the dirt from the collector part can be removed yourself, using fine sandpaper. After cleaning, you must carefully remove the dust from the slots between the contact plates, called lamellae. This is best done with an old hacksaw blade. After work is complete, the armature should be checked with a BCI test apparatus.
Disassembling the Electrical Structure of the Bosch 2-26
Disassembly of the Bosch 2-26, its electrical part begins with the removal of the back cover on the handle of the torch, unscrewing the three screws.
The next step is to remove the reversing switch.
Turn it into neutral position and lift it up towards you. Remove the reversing switch.
To remove the stator cover, it is necessary, holding the mechanical unit in the right hand and the stator housing in the left hand, drag them in different directions, rocking.
Separating the shock assembly with rotor and stator
Simply pull the parts apart to separate the rotor from the mechanical unit. The rotor is attached to the mechanical unit by a small helical gear inserted into contact with a large helical gear of the mechanical unit.
The rotor is released and you can carefully examine the condition of the collector, the bearings.
Rotor of the Bosch rotor
To remove the stator just remove the plastic protective sleeve and hit the end face of the housing in which the stator is fitted with a wooden block or mallet. Remember to remove the two screws that secure the stator in the housing before doing this.
The stator is removed, the rotor is taken out, you can proceed to their inspection and the defectiveness of all parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch torch.
When inspecting the disassembled Bosch 2-26 torch, pay special attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, brush fouling on the brush holders and their fastening, integrity of the reversing switch contacts, condition of the wire at the entrance to the torch.
Length of brushes must not be shorter than 8mm. Brush holders must be free of sparks and carbon dust on the brushes, the reversing switch contacts of the Bosch 2-26 must be free of burn-through or damaged contacts.
The Bosch electric part of the torch
Removable vs. nonremovable cartridges
Many people have heard of removable chucks. Two varieties can be distinguished:
In the second case, to remove the cartridge, you need to disassemble the mechanism itself.
There are 4 balls to secure the quick-release elements. They engage in the grooves on the end face of the sleeve. To remove the cartridge simply pull it towards you. This mechanism is very convenient if you often need to change cartridges to switch to other types of nozzles. But quick-change chucks are not considered the original.
Peorators are usually sold with conventional clamping devices. That is, you have to disassemble the mechanism to remove it. Locking is performed by means of cylindrical barrels, which are located in the slots.
Non-detachable chucks are considered the most reliable. The only problem is that in order to replace or repair it, you have to disassemble the entire tooling. And this is not the easiest task.
Basic types of drill chucks
Drill chucks are divided into two basic types by their design:
- Tooth-ring chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped by means of a special wrench;
- A quick release drill chuck (QCD) in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by turning it manually.
Clamping jaw chucks installed on modern drills allow you to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are almost devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their fairly high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device, installed on modern models of drills, is a quick-action chuck (HAC). Only takes a few seconds to clamp the tool in the single chuck, no special key required. Clamping the tool shank is achieved by manually rotating a sleeve, which is fluted on its outside surface to make this procedure easier. A special locking device is provided in this type of clamp in order to regulate the mechanical impact created on the tool shank.
To fix the drill bit, hold the lower sleeve with one hand and tighten the upper sleeve clockwise with the other
The most significant disadvantages of the clutch should be attributed to the fact that in cases when elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not reliably fix the shank of large-diameter drills. This leads to turning of the tool in the process of work.
Compared with the clamping devices of the BZP category, the toothed drill chucks provide a secure hold on the tool in every situation. Users who frequently work with power drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant disadvantage of these devices is that it is quite easy to lose the wrench that powers them. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after the purchase of the drill, to secure the key on the wire of the device with insulating tape or an ordinary rope.
The diameter of the tool shank to be clamped in the miniature chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The chuck for the mini drill, which is mounted on compact drilling devices, is also very popular. The latter are actively used by masters of jewelry. The Mini chuck belongs to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdrivers and light drills. Such small chuck, predominantly made of brass, is used for fixation of tools, which shank diameter is in the range of 0,1-4,5 mm.
What is SDS?
SDS is an abbreviation composed of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which in German means “insert, turn, fixed. This is the simple yet ingenious principle behind the SDS chuck developed by Bosch engineers in the 1980s. Today, 90% of all manufactured torches are equipped with these easy-to-use devices, which ensure high reliability of tool fixation.
SDS spark plugs are often called clip-on cartridges, but they should not be confused with units that use rotating sleeves to clamp the spark plugs. Unlike traditional quick-action chucks, the sDS mount doesn’t need to be rotated to clamp the tool; it simply needs to be held in place by hand.
To understand the device of this type of chuck, as well as the principle of its operation, it is sufficient to look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or SDS adapter. This tool shank has 4 slots, two of which are open in the face of the shank and the other two are closed. These open slots act as guides and ensure the correct position of the tool as it slides into the chuck. Closed slots in turn secure the shank in the chuck.
In the inner part of the SDS chuck there are special balls, which simultaneously perform two functions. At the moment the tool is just being inserted into the peorator, the balls that guide the slots ensure that the tool is in the correct position. Once the tool is inserted as far as it will go, these balls fix it by turning it slightly until the balls are pushed into the closed slots of the shank. To make the SDS chuck even easier to use, not only should the tool shank be thoroughly cleaned after every use, but it should also be lubricated.
One must keep in mind that due to the design features of SDS type cartridges, the tool fixed in them is subject to slight radial run-out at idle running, which does not affect the accuracy of machining at all. In the meantime, a small amount of play between the shank and the inside of the chuck protects the latter from the hammering action of drills and cutters that occurs while using the chuck.
All drill chucks have a rubber dust cap to protect them from dirt
The Interskol mechanical group of faults in Interskol gears
When disassembling the unit carefully inspect parts for cracks and chips.
Before replacing, mark the wires and pins of the button, so as not to mix up the order of connections.
- To replace the button, it is sufficient to loosen the screws of the contacts. But you may see buttons without screws. There are holes here next to the pins where a needle or thin awl can be inserted. Poke the hole, push down, and pull out the wire. Don’t pull the wire, you could damage the button.
- Wires must be stripped and tinned.
- Take the old button and buy a similar one.
- On the new button, insert the awl into the hole, push it slightly, and insert the wire. It will automatically be pinched by the pins.
Barrel peorator repair has the same principles as a simple one. The main difference is in the design and number of components.
Removable and non-removable cartridges what to know about them
You have probably encountered such a term as a removable chuck for a pen when using a pen. There are two types of cartridges on the peorator. removable or quick-release cartridges and ordinary cartridges, which can be removed only by disassembling the mechanism itself. Quick-release cartridges are fastened with 4 balls which engage in the slots in the end part of the bushing. To remove such a chuck, you must pull it toward you.
The photo above shows a removable type unit. It can be removed without having to be disassembled. This is very useful when a collet element needs to be installed in its place. Such devices are non-original, so if you get a new torch with a removable chuck, you need to take it into account, because most likely the chuck mechanism is not the original one.
The conventional types of clamping devices or the original ones can be removed only after disassembly of the mechanism itself (removable cartridges can be installed instead). They are locked in place with cylindrical barrels in the grooves.
The mechanisms of the fixed type are considered reliable, but if it is necessary to replace or repair them, it is necessary to disassemble the equipment. How to remove a fixed cartridge from a peorator is shown in the video below.
This is interesting!The price difference between replaceable and non-removable chucks is almost 5 times as much. If the original element costs about 3-3.5 thousand, the replacement can be bought for 500-800.