How to remove the drill bit from a drill bit without a wrench
How to open drill without a special key
What jobs are drills designed for??
The product is lubricated with machine oil to improve performance. Before starting the work it is necessary to carry out the so called spot-pointing, i.e. to. е. the point is marked out with a special piece of equipment, called a core. This is to ensure that there is no displacement when starting. Do not use such a product for concrete: the drill bit will become blunt, and you will have to throw it away.
the shape of the drill bit tip: a cylindrical, b conical, c pyramidal.
Special wood blades can be used for drilling gypsum plasterboard, plastic and other surfaces that are not too hard. Diameter can be different, the maximum values of 10-15 cm. To make holes larger than 5 cm in diameter, drill bits must be used. This is a special product, made in the form of a cylinder, its edges have teeth. There is a drill bit in the center of the drill bit.
These models are used to create holes in gypsum plasterboard sheets. Usually the holes are prepared for installing outlets, switches. Teeth can be used for preparation of places for installation of hinges, locks, for work with ceramic tiles.
Special drill bits and drills are used for concrete. They can be made for a regular drill, for a drill with percussion effect, for a torch. They can be used to drill concrete, brick, porcelain tile, ceramic tile. For tiles, only an ordinary drill is used, because the percussive effect can crack the plates during work. Medium rpm are used, maximum rpm is not permissible.
If a drill with percussion effect is used, it is necessary to buy drill bits. They have a triangular shaped tip, which is great for working on difficult surfaces. On the back side the blade has a chuck. When installing, a wrench with a toothed wheel must be used for clamping (this usually comes with the kit).
It is allowed to use screwdrivers, hammers in order to remove the jammed pieces. These products are designed to work only with brick or concrete, for other materials, their use is not recommended. There are a variety of diameters, there are products to work with dowels. Products are available in the following diameters: 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm.
When replacing the drill, you must pay attention to its compatibility with the equipment used. For convenience, it is necessary to have a set of wrenches, they are usually included in the kit. If the manufacturer does not provide them or if they are lost, you can easily buy them in a store today.
Drill bit attachment in a drill
In order to mount the chuck to the shaft of the drill, a hole is made at the bottom of the drill with the diameter of the shaft. Fastening can be by means of a threaded connection or tapered holes and a tight fit of the chuck on a shaft that has a reverse taper.
The drill bit is inserted centrally between the jaws. When the jaws converge (clockwise rotation of the adjusting element) the drill is clamped in the chuck, and when the jaws diverge, on the contrary, it is released. In order to ensure a firm grip, it is necessary to apply a high degree of force when turning the adjustment device.
Drill chucks are subdivided into conventional (key) and quick-action chucks according to the way they are fastened. In the key the adjusting ring is moved and tightened using a special wrench. Turning the wrench clockwise secures the drill in the chuck. The quick-clamping bit has an adjusting sleeve with a knurled surface for easier turning by hand. By manually rotating the sleeve clockwise the drill bit is fitted into the chuck.
There are two types of quick-action chucks: with one thermowell and with two thermowells. If there is only one thermowell, it rotates around the drill bit body that must be fixed in place when the drill bit is inserted. If you use two sleeves, one is a movable, adjusting sleeve and the other is stationary. The regulating sleeve is rotated relative to the second sleeve which must be fixed when inserting the drill. In the chuck design, to limit the tightening force, additional elements in the form of a ratchet (located inside) or a locking spring mechanism with a button (the button is placed in a special socket outside) can be used.
How to release the key chuck
The keyhole chuck is much easier to loosen. First, try to free the drill in the usual way by simply widening the wrench knob and asking for help.
If the part is jammed firmly, you need to rebuild the drill, then remove the head and replace with a new one. If the drill bit is expensive and it is in any case necessary to retrieve it, the drill unit itself must be dismantled or sawed.
It is also possible to find dirt that got into the drill and prevents it from spinning out. In this case it is necessary to remove all components and dirt from the chuck.
Drill Keyless Chuck How To Remove a Stuck Drill Bit Removal
How to get the drill out of the drill: a simple and effective way, the device of the drill, tips
In modern drills, two main types of chucks are used, which differ in the way of fixing the drill. The first type includes chucks key. This design allows you to fix the drill bit by means of a special key, which rotates the adjustment ring in the clockwise direction until the complete fixation of the element. The second type includes quick-change chucks. The design allows for manual changing and fixing of drill bits. This is very useful if you need to replace the bit more often. However, there are situations where changing the drill bit in the chuck can be difficult. In this case, it will not hurt a few useful recommendations, how to pull the drill out of the drill without a key. We will tell you about this further on.
How to change a drill bit in a drill without a wrench
A drill in one form or another. an ordinary drill, with an impact mechanism, a micro-drill (drill bit). is familiar to almost everyone. During its normal operation, users do not think about how the device works and what parts it is disassembled into. But in the case of a breakdown, you have to learn what and how to call and how to remove this something for replacement or repair.
We will not talk about the usual method of action under the name “scientific knock”, and turned to the paragraph of the recommendations “If all this does not help, finally read the instructions”.
The device of a drill and types of chucks for it
- an electric motor that creates the rotary motion;
- the mechanism that transmits this rotation to the clamping device;
- and the actual device for clamping the drill bit. This is the device called “chuck” that interests us.
Before figuring out how to remove the chuck from the drill, let’s find out what they are. the algorithm of actions depends on this.
The most common is the toothed-ring chuck. It uses a special toothed wrench inserted into the hole on the chuck to secure it. The teeth of the wrench meshes with the gear teeth of the chuck and when rotating the wrench, they strengthen or loosen the jaws of the chuck.
Otherwise, this chuck is called a clamping drill chuck, and is considered one of the oldest of the drill bit clamping mechanisms currently in use.
Next are quick-action chucks. with one or two sleeves, fixing ring. They use collets. cone-shaped elements consisting of three or more parts. Moving along the axis of the collet, the sleeve compresses the “petals”, thereby securing the drill in them.
Clutches can be metal or plastic, regular or reinforced, with or without automatic lockout.
How To Change A Corded Drill Bit Without The Key
In fact, the drill chuck is a separate unit connected to the main mechanism of the drill with a shaft. The connection is made by means of a thread or a tool cone (so-called “Morse cone”).
The indication of the type of connection can be found in the manual and/or on the body of the drill.
For example, the designation 1,5-15M13x1,2. the first two figures mean the allowable diameter of the drill shank (or other tool inserted into the chuck), M13 is the diameter of the thread (metric) that connects the chuck with the shaft, and 1.2 is the pitch of this thread.
If the marking looks like 1.5-15 UNF 1/2″, you are talking about inch threads. In domestic drills, metric threads are used, in imported (not all, of course). inch thread.
If a cone is used to connect the shaft to the chuck, the letter B is present in the marking (for example, B10. tool cone, shank diameter of 10 mm).
Given that different companies label their products differently, it is worth considering this difference. So, for a Makita electric screwdriver drill, the marking would look like this: BDF456. B is present, which means the chuck is attached to the cone, D is the type of tool, the drill, and F is the additional features, in this case an electric screwdriver.
Let’s consider models of the most significant manufacturers on the market. Bosh, Makita, Interskol. what chucks they use and how to remove these chucks.
How to remove a quick-action chuck from a threaded drill
The feature of the threaded connection of the chuck with the shaft is the left-hand thread of the fixing screw. It is made so that, rotating the drill bit and “biting into” the material, the shaft simultaneously tightens the chuck mount. Consequently, the answer to the question of how to remove a self-clamping chuck from a drill of this type is simple. you need to rotate the chuck, firmly holding the body, in a clockwise direction.
Usually just rotation is not enough, we have to knock on the joint so that strongly tightened thread parted a little and gave the opportunity to freely scroll the connection.
You can see in more detail how to remove the self-clamping chuck from the drill in the video.
- Since there is a fixing screw inside the chuck, it must be accessible. To do this, the jaws of the chuck must be set as far apart as possible and a screwdriver inserted. With clockwise movements it is unscrewed from its seat. You can’t tell the type of cap right off the bat, so you have to light up inside the chuck first and probably try two or three different screwdriver bits.
- After removing the screw, the chuck can be unscrewed from the shaft easily.
Some models don’t have a fixing screw. Then you just unscrew the chuck, but it will take more effort. It is necessary to fasten the wrench or other handy part in the jaws and use the open-end wrench to fix the shaft.
Then rotate the tools in different directions (as shown in the photo).
It helps a lot in work WD40. it sprinkle both a shaft and the fixing screw inside the chuck. This is especially useful if the screw head is clogged and its type (Phillips, straight slot) cannot be detected. After treatment with WD40, the splines are easy to clean and the threads are better.
How to remove the tapered chuck from the drill
With these models it’s even easier to remove the chuck than with a threaded connection. Lubricant also does not hurt, and the basic algorithm for action. knock on the chuck and after each blow try to turn it. It is necessary to unscrew the fixing screw beforehand (here it has a usual right thread).
Important: In any case, it is better to clamp the drill (electric screwdriver) in a vise when working. This makes it easier to work and frees up your hands.
In some cases, the chuck is so “grown in” into the mount that it is impossible to remove it when it fails. There are different options for removal. from heating with a blowtorch to red with a subsequent attempt to remove it, to cutting the chuck with an angle grinder or other cutting tool. After that it is taken off the shaft piece by piece.
For further information on how to remove the chuck from a Bosch drill and put it back in place after greasing, see the video. Here are the differences in the disassembly process, namely how to remove the chuck from the Interskol drill.
Can the removed chuck be disassembled for repair
Not all types of cartridges are demountable, but cone cartridges usually you can try to disassemble.
There is an interesting way to disassemble the cone chuck without the barbaric methods like sawing or cutting with an angle grinder.
- The jaws fit inside the chuck.
- To the front surface of the chuck by means of a board or thick metal sheet (bar) is pressed a plate of elastic material. styrofoam, foam plastic. not less than 15 20 mm thick.
- Hold the core drill against a flat surface (table) and switch on the hammer function. If the tool does not have such a mode, the chuck is pre-screwed (removed) from the drill and attached to the torch. After 1015 seconds of operating the unit in percussion mode, the chuck can be disassembled for repair.
Given that the chuck is not usually fully restored to function after repair, it is still better to replace the part with a new one with the same marking.
It is important to remember: even if you can without problems to understand how to remove the chuck from the Soviet drill this or that 50-some years, put it on a new imported production can and will not work. no match goes both in diameter threads, and on its step and type.
The example shows how to remove the chuck from a Makita drill and how the threads in the connection between the chuck and the shaft look.
Despite the variety of models of manual drilling and percussion drilling equipment, chuck replacement or maintenance is not too difficult. Doing it periodically if there is any run-out, poor hold of the drill bit, or other problems, will extend the life of your tool significantly.
Attachment device. non-combat chuck
The chuck is the fixture in which the drill bit is held. The fastener itself is screwed onto the spindle of the tool. Most drills are equipped with a cam chuck. This construction is a hollow cylinder with metal pins inside. When the adjusting ring, which is on the outside of the assembly, is turned, the fingers converge or diverge on the inner tapered surface. Both drill bits with a cylindrical shank and hexagonal shank can be fitted in the cam.
Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. But it is not without disadvantages either. One of them is that it’s difficult to work with small drill bits. A short workpiece can simply fall in. It can still be fastened by placing the drill horizontally, but the drill must not be pressed hard at all when working. If another drill bit has been inserted in the drill, it can be removed by turning the adjustment ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do it by hand, that’s why there is a special wrench, which acts as a lever, increasing the force. By the way, to tighten the drill without a wrench is also not recommended. the larger the diameter of the drill, the more reliable should be mount.
When buying fasteners, make sure they are rubberized, so you will be less likely to injure your hands when attaching the tool.
Work fastener. the second most popular. is possible without a wrench. It is enough to insert the drill bit and turn the lever, and it can often be done with one hand. Drill fixation, which provides this type of chuck, is quite enough for most jobs, but compared to the classic version of the mount, it is inferior in terms of reliability, and it costs more. The main advantage of the quick-change chuck is the speed of changing the drill bit and the safety of the process, because this chuck has no teeth that can injure your hands. The lack of a specialized wrench is also a great advantage! Experienced builders know how easily it gets lost, so very often you can see the wrench taped with duct tape or duct tape to the wire.
To tell the truth, it does not make you feel more comfortable, but you get at least some assurance that you won’t have to look for the key all over the construction site. How to change a drill bit in an electric screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical. the chucks in most drills are similar to the fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the latter tool can not be a full-fledged substitute for a quality drill, at least because the fastener is not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of the electric screwdriver, as a rule, less.
How to properly insert and remove the drill bit in a peorator, an electric screwdriver and a drill
A safe drilling regime involves following some rules, neglecting which can lead to injury or damage to the tool. In the greatest danger is the drill chuck, taking on the main load of contact with the surface. In order to avoid unpleasant consequences, it is not recommended to change the drilling angle sharply. It is also necessary to limit the applied force on the drill, the drill bit of which is in the process of drilling. Excessive load can lead to breakage of the drill bit or jamming it in the chuck. Drills designed for such work should be used for machining heavy-duty surfaces.
What to do if the faces of the chuck retaining screw are slipping
What to do if the faces of the screw heads inside the chuck have worn out? A very common problem, but very real to solve. First let’s look at the reasons why the faces on the screw are slipping:
- Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw in a counterclockwise direction. If there is a screw inside, it should be turned clockwise to unscrew it, i.e. the other way around
- The wrong tool, i.e. you use a screwdriver with slits that slip off the screw faces. Select the screwdriver correctly as far as possible before use
- Poor-quality screw. This is common on cheap Chinese hardware
But if the edges of the screw have slipped off, don’t rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:
- If the screw head is Phillips-head, but the edges are flattened, you can use a flathead screwdriver. Manufacturers have provided for the possibility of slipping edges, so you can unscrew a screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. This method usually helps to solve the problem
- Use a blowgun to try to clean the dirt inside the flats of the flat bar. Often there is a large amount of dirt accumulated in the flat of the screw that prevents a good connection with the screw
- Take a screwdriver and place it on the head of the screw, making several light but sharp strokes. The screwdriver will go deeper into the screw head of the chuck, making it more likely to come out
- Cut off a piece of rubber, and having placed it over the flat, try to catch the remaining edges with a screwdriver through it, and make unscrewing
- If all the methods are tried, the only thing left is to disassemble the electric screwdriver or drill, followed by the replacement of the actuator with the shaft from the gearbox or with an angle grinder to cut the chuck. Once the screw head is accessible, a hand vice can be used to grip it and unscrew it. The chuck has to be replaced after this method
There is no need to replace the entire tool at all.
How to insert the drill correctly?
To correctly insert the drill bit into the chuck, you need to know the following. The hole designed for clamping the tool is no more than 2 cm deep. The deeper the drill bit is seated, the more secure it will be in the chuck. There are two types of chuck clamping mechanisms:
In recent years, domestic drills have been equipped with a manual (quick-action) chuck. it is easier to build and quicker to actuate.
To insert the drill bit into the chuck, follow these steps:
- Turn the chuck counterclockwise. The jaws should separate by a distance slightly greater than the diameter of the drill.
- Insert the drill bit between the jaws as far as it will go.
- Turn the chuck slowly clockwise, making sure the drill bit is clamped evenly on all sides.
- Tighten the jaws by hand or wrench.
Attention! Before drilling, turn on the drill and look at the drill bit. Correctly set tool does not kick and looks like a smooth line.
When clamping the drill bit in the chuck considerable force can be applied, especially if the drill bit has a large diameter. Remember that you have to do the reverse operation afterwards to remove or replace the drill bit. When clamping the drill, look for the right balance: clamp the drill securely, but so that it can be removed from the chuck without any problems. The effort you need is easy to determine after a little practice. your muscle memory kicks in.