How to remove the drill chuck from the cone
How to disassemble a drill chuck
With such a problem as the need to disassemble a drill chuck, craftsmen are sometimes faced in the home or in production. Most often it arises due to corrosion processes or contamination of the chuck with construction dust. Difficulty in clamping tools in case of serious problems.
Let us tell you how to do it. First let us take a look at the construction and design of the most common gear-ring (cam) drill chucks.
Picture : cam drill chuck
The main operating conditions that determine the effective use of drill chucks in the relevant equipment are:
- Rigidity of attachment, which must not depend on the number of revolutions developed by the spindle.
- No radial run-out of the drill bit within the allowable feeds and hardness of the material to be machined.
- Ease of insertion into the machine tool spindle.
- Additional functionality (e.g., supplying coolant to the drilling area).
Clamping rigidity is always related to the drill bit material and its free length. For example, for carbide drills with very low bending stability, the drill chuck must be able to self-centering. The second stiffness task is to ensure that the maximum possible loads are applied to the tool without the risk of breakage. The risk of radial run-out is particularly high when drilling in hard or porous materials. In these cases, the drill also loses its longitudinal stability, and can cause fatal drilling faults. In conditions of frequent changeovers of universal metal-cutting equipment (which includes any drilling machine) reduction of preparatory-tasking time is an important source of reducing labor intensity of the operation. When drilling difficult-to-machine materials, as well as at considerable depth of the hole the process often has to be interrupted because of the need to cool the drill bit. For this purpose modern drill chucks designs provide supply of technological medium (coolant) directly during the operation. Only certain steel grades are used in production of fasteners. The most commonly used steel is 40Х according to GOST 4543-91, although in some foreign designs stainless steels are also used. Parts designed for direct clamping of the drill bit in the chuck are made of medium-carbon steels with heat treatment “improvement”, or of cemented steels. The surface of domestic-made drill chucks, in order to improve their corrosion resistance characteristics, is subjected to blasting. Below are the designs of chucks, which are the most widespread.
How to remove and change the chuck on the drill
In electric drills for a reliable fixation of drills a special device is used, which is called a chuck. In domestic drills, jaw chucks are the most commonly used. With heavy use, they can fail and require replacement or repair. During these operations, problems often occur. In this article, a master plumber will tell you how to remove and change the chuck on a drill.
The chuck serves as the seat, the holder of the main working element of the drill, electric electric screwdriver or torch. It can be not only a drill, but also a concrete drill for tools with an impact function, a special attachment in the form of a cross or flat screwdriver. There are special nozzles for drills, designed for grinding, deburring of various surfaces. They are mounted on a rounded or multi-faceted pin, which is also mounted in the chuck.
Drill chucks differ in design and method of installation on the tool and are divided into three types:
Tapered chuckThe tapered chuck was invented back in 1864 by American engineer Stephen Morse, who also developed and proposed the use of a twist drill. The peculiarity of such chuck is that the clamping of the working element occurs due to the mating of the two shaft surfaces and a separate part with a landing hole. The surfaces of the shafts and the hole for installing the drill have equal dimensions of taper, the angle of which ranges from 1°25’43” to 1°30’26”.The angle is adjusted by turning the base of the mechanism, depending on the thickness of the element to be installed.Toothed-ring design
The most common type of chuck on hand-held power tools for household use. The principle of the device such chuck is simple. at the end of the pin coming out of the drill is threaded, and the chuck is screwed on it like a nut.
The drill bit is held in the chuck by three cone-shaped flutes in the center of the chuck in the collet. When the nut on the collet is turned with a special wrench, the blades come together and clamp the shank of a drill or other work item. a mixer whisk, screwdriver nozzle, impact chisel, tap.Rapid-clamping chuck
Considered to be the most convenient option. This is the latest technological modification of this device in terms of time of invention. It is used in almost all modern models of famous drill manufacturers.The working cutting or other element is also secured by special petals, only a wrench is not required to clamp them. Fixing paddles are clamped by hand. by turning the adjusting sleeve, on which for the convenience of scrolling is grooved.To prevent the thermowell from unscrewing when the tool is running, it has an additional blocker at its base.How to remove the chuckSince all kinds of drill chucks have their own design features, their disassembly involves different actions. Special tools are also required.It is possible to dismantle with improvised or interchangeable tools, but the first disassembly is not recommended to experiment, because it can damage the tool.In general, however, the procedure does not represent anything complicated and is quite feasible independently at home.Tapered chuckThe Morse method of securing a chuck is one of the most reliable methods of securing a chuck, but it does not require complex manipulation. The design perfectly withstands the force loads along the axis in both conventional drills and tools with percussion function. That’s why it is so common in manufacturing plants.There are several ways to disassemble the chuck.Use a hammer on the bottom of the chuck. The main thing is that the blow must be directed along the axis in the direction of the seat of the cutting element. the drill bit.
Disconnect the chuck by unclamping the surfaces: insert a chisel, for example, into the gap between the chuck and the drill body and, undercutting it with a hammer, carefully remove the shaft. It is very important not to hit the same spot so that the shaft is not twisted: gradually extending the chuck shaft, the chisel must be inserted in different places.
Use a special puller like the ones used to remove bearings.In most manual drills with cone chucks, the shaft bearing is built into the tool body. But there are also models where it is located on the outside of the chuck. In this case, you must be as careful as possible, otherwise there is a chance of damaging the bearing. If a shaft is too stuck and can not be removed, do not hit it with a hammer with all your might.
In these cases it is recommended to try to treat the surface with anticorrosive agents. kerosene, WD-40 spray preparation.Toothed-ring chuck
The toothed chuck is screwed onto the stud that is built into the drill. Accordingly, to dismantle the device, you just need to unscrew it in the opposite direction, but you should take into account some nuances. The chuck has a right-handed thread on the chuck and a left-handed thread on the pin that comes out of the drill. the chuck turns clockwise and the chuck itself automatically turns clockwise during the tool and tightens on the shaft.Such feature guarantees its reliable fixation on the drill, eliminates backlash and spontaneous reset element from vibration. This specific fit of the chuck should also be taken into account when removing it. during the operation of the drill, the chuck is screwed on to the axis to the stop, the thread is clamped with maximum force.Therefore, to unscrew it back, you will need these tools:
Consider the procedure.Using a special wrench for the cutting element (drill bit) turn the collet counterclockwise as far as possible and lower the locking blades in this way.
If you now look into the chuck, you can see in the center of the bottom of the screw head for a Phillips or star screwdriver. This screw has a left-hand thread to prevent it from coming loose. So unscrew it by turning the screwdriver to the right side, having previously clamped the assembly in a locksmith’s vise.
It is possible that the screw splines over the years of exploitation are clogged and in order to seize them with a screwdriver bit, you should at the same time easily tap on it with a pair of pliers or a hammer until you feel the hook.
After removing the left-hand threaded screw, insert the hex wrench into the chuck and tighten it.
Clamp the free side of the hexagon in the jaws of the vice and use a suitable open-jaw wrench to remove the nut on the drill with which the chuck is attached to the tool spindle.
After that you can release the L-shaped hexagon from the vice and turning it to the left, completely unscrew the clamping assembly from the spindle shaft.Quick-action chuckDepending on the manufacturer and the model of the tool, quick-action chucks are attached to the drill in two ways. screwed on a pin with a thread or fixed on special slots.In the first case, its removal is carried out in the same way as a gear-type device:
- Lower the clamping paddles;
- Unscrew the locking screw;
- Clamp a hexagon or a screwdriver in the chuck;
- Having secured the base of the shaft, unscrew it by light blows on the hexagon with a hammer.
The second variant with slots is used in modern devices and does not require the use of any tools for removal. Everything is done by hand in automatic mode easily and effortlessly. All you need to do is to clamp the upper ring of the chuck firmly by hand and turn the lower one counterclockwise until it clicks.
You can also be guided by special marks on the chuck body. They indicate to which position the lower ring must be turned in order to remove the unit.Chuck Replacement
In the question of how to replace a worn chuck on the drill, there is nothing complicated. To do this, simply purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install the new one on it. In this case, it should be borne in mind that both on a regular and on a mini-drill can be installed chucks of two types:
Chucks, for the installation on the drill, which uses a thread, are removed according to the above scheme. When replacing such a device is not enough to know that it is a threaded one, it is also important to take into account the marking, which is necessarily applied to it.
These chucks can be marked as follows:
The interval 1,5-13 present in these designations indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the installed cutting tool. The rules for replacing a chuck in a drill suggests that the new chuck must be marked identically to the old one.
Screw the new chuck by hand, turning it to the right, onto the threads of the drill spindle until it hits the clamping nut with its bottom.Insert the hexagon and clamp its free end in a vice. Then screw the chuck nut to the right with a socket wrench and remove the hexagon socket wrench from the chuck.
Now it remains in the hole in the center of the bottom to screw in a screw with a left-hand thread, using a screwdriver with an appropriate bit. The chuck must first be clamped in a vice and the cams retracted inside as far as possible.
To make sure the chuck is replaced correctly, check if it sits firmly on the tool and the drill is simply and firmly clamped. The test drilling has shown that the tool works as good as new. So it is completely in order and can work for its intended purpose.VideoSynthesis. How to remove and change the chuck on the drill
With the question of how to replace the taper chuck on the drill, everything is somewhat easier. The devices of this type can also be marked in different ways, namely:
To replace a chuck of this type on a drill, you simply need to pick up a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seating part into the cone hole of the drilling equipment. Orientation in such a marking is simple enough: the letter “B” means that it is a chuck of the cone type, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the seating hole.VideoBovie. How to remove a taper chuck from an electric drill and drill press
In the story. How to remove the chuck from an electric screwdriver and drill
Possible chuck problems with your drillIf you’re going to have any problems with your drill, you need to know how to operate it properly. Drill. a universal tool, it can be used to drill wood and metal, plastic and tile, stone and glass, concrete and brick.The drill cannot be used for milling work. The drill chuck is not designed for side loading and will fail quickly. Of utmost importance:
Know how to choose the right speed, feed, mode of operation depending on the material of the workpiece. All of these factors directly affect the reliable operation of the drill chuck.Possible chuck problem:
- Chuck can fly off. This problem is quite common even on new drills when the cam chuck is tapered when a deep hole is drilled. You need to lift the drill bit to release the chips and that’s when the chuck comes off the cone. Increase interference in the taper bore to correct. To do this, the chuck is heated in oil or an oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and placed on the cold mandrel of the drill;
- The drill always works in dirty conditions. That is dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If this debris gets inside the chuck it can cause the threads to jam, especially at the cams. There is only one solution. Requires chuck disassembly, cleaning and flushing of moving parts. Before assembly, all moving parts should be lubricated with litho. There is especially a lot of waste in the chuck when drilling on surfaces above the ceiling. Here you can think about protecting the chuck with half a small rubber ball;
- Chuck runout can have several causes. For example, the Morse seating cone is worn. You can check that with paint. Apply a uniform layer to the cone, slide the chuck on. Then remove and examine the mark it left on the taper. Another reason could be uneven wear of the cams. In this case, they need to be replaced. But more often a broken chuck is replaced with a new chuck.
In capable hands, a household drill can work wonders. It is used to drill holes in hard and soft materials. Clamping chuck. important part of a drilling machine. It is the one that secures the drill bit and ensures drilling accuracy. Therefore, it is very important for the home craftsman to be able to provide small repairs and replace this part of the device on their own.On a related note, also see our How to disassemble and lubricate a drill chuck
Drilling machine accessories
Attachments for magnetic drilling machines are used to extend the functionality of magnetic drilling machines. Adapters for core and twist drill bits, adapters, chucks and extensions allow you to greatly expand the capabilities of magnetic machines, allowing you to use different tools; increase the depth and efficiency of drilling.
With the main types of equipment you can get acquainted in this section of our website.
Core drill chucks
Chucks for core drill bits can provide a supply of coolant. such cartridges are called internally cooled cartridges. Feeding coolant into the chuck significantly facilitates the work and prevents overheating of both the equipment and the working tool, which significantly increases the service life of the machine and the quality of work performed.
When selecting a chuck, please pay attention to whether it includes a coolant supply. The supply of coolant into the chuck will greatly simplify the work. the cutter will not overheat after turning off the machine, and the drilling process will be easier.
Karnasch chucks are available in Morse cone 2 to Morse cone 4 shanks. Both quick-change cartridges and normal cartridges are available on our website.
Core drill bit adapters and adapters for core drills
Adapters for core drill bits are designed to install a replacement tool on the machine that is not suitable for the tool you need.
How to Replace Drill Chuck.
In addition, if a drill chuck is lost or damaged, it is easier to buy an adapter for a drill bit or core bit of the required diameter than to buy a new drill chuck, which is much more expensive.
Some machines (e.g. Fein or Nitto-Kohki) have their own arbor hole. In that case, adapters are used so that drill bits with Weldon 19/32 shank fit into those machines.
Drilling with twist drill bits
The adaptors for twist drill bits are designed for the same purpose as core drill bits adaptors. but please note that a specific adaptor is needed for each twist drill bit depending on the diameter of the drill bit shank.
An exception is the Karnasch three-jaw chuck that works with drill bits from 1 to 13 mm diameter, firmly holding a twist drill bit due to its construction. The 3-jaw chuck can also be used with KM 2, KM 3, Weldon 19/B16, Fein Quick-In 18/B16 adapters. Adapters for twist drill bits are the only way to drill with twist drill bits on small machines weighing less than 14 kg.
Adapters for bits
If you need to work with material for which neither core nor twist drill bits are suitable, for example for drilling holes in pipes, use drill bits for which adapters are presented in this section of the site.
Core drill bit extensions
Drill extensions are used to increase drilling depth. In case the material you have to work with is below the base of the machine, you can use an extension piece.
They are also indispensable, for example, for drilling in pipes or profiles. when you have to make two holes of the same diameter opposite each other. When working on pipes, you must take into account the diameter of the extension piece and the diameter of the hole. The diameter of the hole must be larger than the diameter of the extension so that the extension can pass freely through the hole when working.
Chucks are divided into two main groups according to how they are attached to the machine:
These features determine the differences of their internal structure. Morse taper on the outside means that there is also a tapered structure on the inside. Self-clamping chuck by the size of the inner cone must comply with the standards in regulatory documents. Marking has an indication of GOST, in view of which the chuck is made. The main parameters are specified in the 1979 document, further there may be minor deviations in the tolerances of the lower limit of the drill bit clamping and radial run-out.
Their choice is determined by the need for different types of holes, the holder itself and convenience in work with quick tool change. Morse cone, types of sizes according to the possibility of clamping from the smallest diameter of the drill bit to the largest, the presence of a key or locking and fixing ring in the design for each size are specified in GOST 8522-79.
Regulatory documents do not limit the improvement and modification of external forms, the most important that the main parameters are consistent. It makes it possible to achieve the most accurate fit of the drilling tool during the selection of a replacement sleeve or drill bit. Only in this way allowable radial run-out is not exceeded. Chuck and bit cone mismatch leads to bigger error and it has a negative influence on the end result of the work.
There are drill chucks:
Types of drill chucks. How to remove the chuck, how to choose the right one
There are several kinds of drill chucks. There is a threaded cartridge, there is a tapered cartridge that you just push on, not screw in. Let’s consider them in more detail, so as not to make a mistake when choosing.
Choose correctly, chucks are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the chuck M121.25, then such and take. If M121/2. 20 UNF, then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the chuck from the drill, take it with you to the store.
How to remove it? To do this, twist the chuck counterclockwise. Sometimes the chuck is additionally fastened by a screw, which is centered in it,
Chucks are with a key, there is a quick-clamp (in the first photo). The main advantage of the fast-clamping is the quick change of drills and screwdriver bits. The disadvantages are that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) rather than hexagonal, especially when the metal drill is of large diameter. The load is great and you can not tighten it much by hand, what can not be said about “classic” chucks that are tightened with a wrench. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only disadvantage is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it to the cable of the drill with duct tape, so it is always in its place.
There are chucks with 1/4″ hex shank, capable to clamp drill bits from 0,6 mm.
What is the best way to clamp the drill chuck?
In household drills and screwdrivers usually set one of the types by the method of clamping the working tool chucks, it’s with a wrench and a quick-clamp. Key jaw chucks have been around for a long time and are familiar to any home handyman. Quick-action chucks were just recently introduced, and they quickly became very popular.
In the photo on the left you see a quick-clamping chuck, and on the right you see a key-jaw chuck. There is an opinion that the keyhole chuck is better at clamping the drills, but after years of experience with both keyhole and quick-action chucks, I dare to say there is no difference. Both types of chucks clamp with the same degree of success. Only the convenience and speed of changing drill bits in a drill with a quick-action chuck is undeniable. No need for a wrench that will always get lost in action unless it is clamped to the drill or tied to the drill with a rope, two hands are needed to clamp the drill.
The way you clamp the chuck is not related to how it is attached to the shaft of the drill, so if you change the chuck with a key method of clamping, I advise you to install a chuck with a quick-clamp method of fixing the drill bits instead.
Morse taper drill chuck. Self-clamping.
Self-clamping drill chuck. It’s pretty good, reasonably priced. Actually, here it is. At the beginning of summer I needed to drill a fair amount of 10 and 12mm holes. The specifics of the work are such that first you have to outline the hole with an alignment drill, then make the hole with a small diameter drill and only then go through with a larger diameter drill. So, three tool repositions per hole. And if you consider that drills of bigger diameters should be clamped with all my strength, then everything becomes really sad. And then I remembered that I used to have a self-clamping chuck and how smart and convenient it was to drill with it. Only the chuck was up to 10mm, under the second Morse taper and in general someone took it from me to use and did not return it. So I went to see what the local dealers can offer me from the drilling. The dealers offered either some slag, or a chuck without a cone (not available today, but we will bring it in two weeks), or a steep price tag. I had to look at what they offer in the Celestial Empire. The assortment was so nice that I could not stop staring at it. Only the right set in the form of “chuck B16 and KM3” something I could not find. Wrote the seller: “Dear Friend, I want B16 and KM3,” to which the seller the next day rolled out the lot at the link and warned me to choose the cone more carefully, because they vary. Picked up the package at the post office a month later. There were two boxes in the shipment, wrapped in an immeasurable amount of Styrofoam. In one, the cartridge itself. In another KM3.
The sponges are glazed. No backlash or galling. Lubricated. Practically zero convergence
Old and new:
Tool change is much faster and more convenient than with a conventional key chuck. In any Vsehinstrumenty similar you can get for 300-500 more expensive.