How to saw a board into boards with a manual circular saw
Making the kerf without stopping
It is desirable not to stop during the sawing of wooden parts. The circular saw has to run smoothly in the material and not interrupt. Otherwise the boards will be left with irregularities and cuts, which will prevent further use of the wood.
Movement should be smooth and soft, so that the disc does not blunt and went smoothly on the board. It is also advisable to check the length of the cord beforehand. If it does not reach. use an extension cord. Otherwise the wood will also be cut unevenly.
What electric circular saws can do
Electric circular saws allow to process wood and wood-based products in different ways, which depend on the type of tool chosen.
Types of work with a hand circular saw
The following types of work can be done with a hand circular saw:
- make facing of multiple workpieces laid in one plane;
- To end wide boards using a parallel stop, which cannot be cut with a pendulum saw;
- Trim boards for flooring;
- end the workpiece at an angle, without the guide and with it;
- make longitudinal sawing of a workpiece at an angle;
- aligning an un-cut board along a pre-determined mowing line;
- make a quarter in a board or beam;
- Cut sheets of materials using guide rail;
How to Rip narrow boards with a circular saw
- By changing the tooling, circular saw can be used to cut metal profiled sheets;
- Cut plexiglass and different types of plastic;
- set up a hand saw in a table and use it as a stationary circular saw.
Working with a circular saw
Working with a circular saw (stationary) is slightly different from working with a manual unit. Using a circular saw it is possible to do the following:
- Cut and face wide workpieces, both straight and at an angle;
- make longitudinal and transverse sawing of wooden boards;
- Cut wood-based sheet material;
- cut a board at an angle;
- Sawing square timber.
Types of work with the crosscut saw
A circular saw can be used to do the following
Sawing technique along
Longitudinal sawing is quite often used, and therefore it is better to say a few words about the correct technique of work. Since this method is used to obtain boards used in the construction of important buildings, you need them to be almost perfect. In order to achieve the same dimensions, it is necessary to use a guide during the work. The role of this auxiliary element can be performed by an iron batten or other board, but very strong and perfectly level.
How to Rip a Board With a Hand Saw
Some may think that sawing a log into boards at home is easy. But it is a wrong judgment, especially if it is a question of making building material for the erection of any construction.
Before sawing a log, it is necessary to determine what size the sawn material should be and what quality the final boards should have. On these factors depends the choice of an appropriate tool.
Only after inspecting the timbers should you begin the main phase of splitting. It may be necessary to remove the bark and knots from them. If the logs do not have any flaws and defects, the processing will go much faster, and the final lumber will exceed all expectations of the master.
To date, there are several types of log cutting, depending on the orientation of the annual rings of the felled tree.
- Radial. In this case we have to saw along the radius of the one-year rings. The finished lumber will meet high quality requirements and will not deform even after prolonged use.
- Tangential. This variant involves sawing a log tangentially to the annual rings. However, the resulting lumber will not have the desired strength.
- Parallel. The most clear variant of cutting, which takes place parallel to the fibers of the tree.
When sawing a log in the direction of the fibers is best to use the variant round timber. Initially the logs are cut from the 1st side. Then the log is turned around 180 degrees and the 2nd butt is removed.
In order to get the boards even, the processed log is required to constantly turn.
Regardless of the method of sawing different logs, it is necessary to adhere to several general rules, corresponding to the sawing technology.
- The log must not move during sawing. It must be securely fastened to the working surface.
- If you use a chain saw you will need a chain for longitudinal sawing, so the cut will be straight and the saw will not move sideways. It is important that the chain is sharpened and does not slacken.
- When sawing with your own hands choose small logs.
- Before you start sawing, you should make a marking corresponding to the chosen type of sawing.
- It is important to pay special attention to safety at any stage of log handling.
Knowing how to cut logs correctly is only part of sawing techniques. It is much more difficult to work from a blueprint when you want to put a paper drawing into practice. With a clear diagram, every part of the sawing process is carefully measured. Mowing line slices should be even, which is extremely important in the manufacture of decorative products.
Before picking up the chainsaw, it is necessary to properly cut the log. Thus, it will be possible to get the maximum amount of quality boards with a small residual waste.
To begin with, a mark is applied to the wood, corresponding to the type of lumber intended. Then the log is secured to the work surface so it does not move or wobble.
Cut horizontally along the log. This method has the advantage of requiring very little effort to hold the chainsaw in your hands. For sawing along the log you will need a slitting device. You can buy such additions in a store or make them yourself.
When using the rip saw attachment, you have to attach it firmly to the chainsaw body and prepare the base surface against which the cut will be made. In no case it is forbidden to press the saw, it should move smoothly on the working surface. Well, for the convenience of the work it is best to invite a partner. Extra hands will help secure the workpieces to insert wedges in the saw.
On the sawmill
When working with the sawmill it is important to consider the thickness of the boards, taper and rotation of the raw material. Sawing on a band saw can be done in several ways.
- Basic sawing. Here we saw a log from the beginning to the end to get untreated boards, as there is no turning of the log. This method is considered the simplest, but has several disadvantages. The resulting boards have to be cut from the sides, and the lumber itself loses quality. Even during the work, the center boards can crack.
- Circular sawing. Making a kerf, after which the sawyer turns the log over the other side. In this way, the wood is sawn to its center. This method is considered the best for processing medium and high grade raw materials.
- Sawing cants. Initially the cut is made in a circle and the center of the log is cut as a log of a particular size which is then cut without any residuals. This scheme is suitable for cutting low- and medium-grade wood.
To apply log and circular sawing schemes, specialists use 2 methods.
The first one does not take the taper into account, while the second one requires paying attention to it. The first method selects the worst edge for the primary sawing. However, without taking taper into account, a lot of slabs will be left behind. Sawing from the good side of the log moves parallel to the bark, so that the craftsman will get a large number of elongated boards of excellent quality.
To start sawing a good face of the raw material with respect to taper, you must clamp the log so that the saw is parallel to the bark.
In both cases the final boards have the same characteristics. However, using the second method, it is much easier for the sawyer to find the best edge.
Regarding the issue of log flipping. When you turn the raw material by 180 degrees you get uncut boards, the sides of which require additional processing. At 90 degrees, half edged and unedged boards come out, which need to be refinished only on one side.
Turning 180 degrees allows to get quality samples of the final material with wide dimensions. If the sawmill has only one saw, it is much more convenient to turn the raw material similar to the right angle.
After the opposite sides have been sawn, the worst part of the log is machined without taking into account its taper. But a good edge requires sawing parallel to the bark, which increases the quality of the final lumber.
Preparing for cutting
Before you saw a log into boards, you must remove the bark from it. It can be done with a sharpened spade, a staple gun, or an electric planer.
When using a shovel, you move away from yourself.
It is believed that the best results are obtained when the bark is removed with a staple, as it does not affect the wood.
Cross cut a log
It is not difficult even to work at home. Stack the log on a trestle or secure it to the rails. And you can saw off pieces of the right size.
Basic hand saws
At least three or four different types of saws should be available in any home workshop.
- Wide-bladed hacksaw for rough cutting of large parts and workpieces. The longer the blade, the faster the work. But for the same reason the mobility of the blade itself increases, because of which the saw, as they say, moves sideways. That’s why it’s important to pay attention to the sawing line, so as not to let it deviate from the marking. New in recent years is the Teflon coating of the cutter blade that makes it easier to cut fresh wood and protects the saw against rust.
- Saws with backs not only differ from standard saws in that they have a rigid socket that “dampens” the oscillation of the blade, but also that they have finer, closer set teeth. This saw makes it possible to make clean, thin cuts.
- The finish saw ensures a smooth and accurate cut.
- Saw blades with narrow bandsaws are for cutting rounded pieces and large holes. A basic rule for every chainsaw is to keep the blade dry and clean at all times. Teeth of the saw. even the hardened ones. should be sharpened regularly.
What criteria you need to consider when choosing a sawing technique
All of the options that we will talk about below allow you to cope with the task, but each of them is suitable for certain conditions, so you need to decide in advance on several factors:
|Scope of work||Naturally, if you need to cut a single board, you can use the simplest devices, but if you have to process a certain volume, then you should choose the method of work more responsibly, because if you decide incorrectly, you can spend more time and effort on cutting than on all other activities|
|Quality||Sometimes this factor is unimportant, but sometimes the reliability of the construction and the attractiveness of the building depends on how accurately and qualitatively carried out cutting. Therefore, it is important to achieve exactly the result that will be optimal for your object and at the same time to spend a minimum of money|
|The nature of the processing||Naturally, the sawing of logs into boards will be different from the work on the dissolution of the boards and will require completely different equipment. Also the choice depends on the thickness of the processed elements|
|Type of wood||It’s no secret that different types of wood have different hardness, and to saw the same pine is much easier than oak or beech, in addition, with increasing hardness much more power is required for the same work. Also do not forget about the wear and tear of the equipment|
Important! Sometimes the best solution may be to buy ready-made boards, especially if the amount of work is large.
A special machine for sawing boards lengthwise is an ideal solution for those who perform longitudinal cutting constantly and in large volumes
Circular saw, is one of the basic tools for woodworking. The basic circular saw has three basic functions: cutting boards into strips to fit the width, cutting to length (crosscutting) and sawing at an angle. The latter method applies if the circular saw is adjustable not only in height, but also in angle. There is another necessary, though intermediate, operation, sawing a board by thickness. For example you have a 70 mm thick plank. and you have to cut it into three 18-20 mm thick boards. Or what I have to do most often, boards of thickness 45-50 mm dissolve into strips 18-20 mm thick which I use in furniture production.
What is needed for this:
In the first place it is very desirable to have a circular saw with variable height of the saw. It is hard to saw such materials as beech, oak, birch to the full height of the saw at once. Therefore, sometimes you have to do it in two or three passes, gradually increasing the height of the kerf.
Secondly, you can only work in this way with planed board. If the workpiece is sufficiently flat, it is often enough to once pass on the planer and the edges of the board.
The third thing you should also pay attention to is that the board should not be too short. If the saw jams and the board plays, you can lose your fingers. This is not a joke, I know cases like this.
Dissect the boards into thin strips.
Here a 50 mm thick planed strip is sawn out into three 12 mm thick strips When calculating do not forget to take into account the kerf width, that is the thickness of the saw at the extreme points of separation. Also note, after sawing the finished strips must be planed on the jointer, or even better on the planking machine. That’s why you need a thickness reserve of at least a couple of millimeters.
In this case we get approximately the following calculation: We set the saw to 14 mm. from a guide ruler, three slats in total will turn out 141414=42 mm Plus to this two widths of a kerf, here the blade pitch is 3,5 mm That is all dimensions at the limit, therefore it is necessary to work accurately.
The width of the board is 120 mm, but these dimensions apply to this workpiece. We will saw from both sides on the edges. To saw the board in two cuts, the height of the saw has to be a little more than half the width of the board. In this case the height of the saw from the circular saw table is 65 mm
One more point, the guide bar must be high enough, for example 70-80mm so the board won’t fall when sawing.
Gently make the first cut with your hands always higher than the saw. Never use your hands to push the board under the saw, use wooden pushers.
Then turn the board vertically and make counter cut. The first 14mm thick board. finished.
Then we put the rest of the board with the planed side facing the guide ruler and make the next cut. Again turn the workpiece and cut to depth on the back side.
Don’t relax at all when working, listen to the sound of the saw. If it starts to wedge, reduce feed rate. The sawing may cause the board to overlap at the exit. If the saw isn’t sharp enough or the tip is too small, the material will burn. When it burns it is not very good, the saw overheats and may be run over and the smell is extremely unpleasant. Article on how to saw plywood.
That’s why I wrote at the beginning of the article, if the material is heavy, it makes sense to pass the part in two times the height on each side. And never forget, the circular saw is a dangerous tool. So use all protective and clamping devices that are available.
Sawmill from a hand circular saw
Many self-builders buy a hand circular saw for cutting boards, but sometimes you need to saw something small and flat, such as laths!So I had to as something quick and easy to do it See photo) The basis. a piece of board 50200 1m longIn it sawed out a rectangle at 3 cm deep
For fixing took a piece of steel strip and 2 bolts (in the place of priming a piece of rubber put underlay)
As a limiter. a flat bar pressed by a pair of clamps
2 hours and the machine is ready!, Sawed 812mm sections all conveniently!//The hardest part is to saw a rectangle in the board more or less straight. it took me an hour to cut it with a chisel Also the disk is 55mm out. which allows me to saw a 50 board!
Table Saw Tip. Cutting Logs Into Boards. HNB #14
Smart’s a good thing! However, I do not share this approach. It’s not safe. When building a skate park, we used the same homemade frame. As a result, the circular broke loose and started bouncing around wildly on the floor. It’s a good thing no one’s legs got splattered. And they could only turn it off from the mains because the trigger had to be fixed.
Such ideas are certainly good, but my duty is to warn people.
Thanks. that’s another reason I don’t remove the safety guard!. zhade if for some reason it will fall out (although I can not imagine how she can do it in this design). the hood instantly swings back, covering driveTakzhe wire so that not to hang out, I have attached a hook from below. even if the saw will fall out. it will hang on the wire Well, in general, I want to hang a socket with a switch below. this will not pull the plug many times from the socket
The frame was made spontaneously, as to saw flat rectangular thin bars “with a hand” circular is somewhat difficult
Take the cover off the saw, it will be less clogged, you can not see the riving knife, I hope you did not take it off? I have the same Makita hanging, but I bought a piece of worktop, and screwed the saw to a sheet of iron
No, I did not remove the bladeCover does not interfere with installation or depth it just folded out, and did not notice that he clogged. the flow of air from the disk cleans it well (MakiTau disk moreover with slots for cooling. they further enhance the flow )And I had to saw a piece of glazing beads once. I do floors, in the grooves between the boards to embed
I see, I have just mostly upside down saw, I remove the cover that covers the disk, there are 3 screws, and then in the upside down state is clogged and starts squeaking when the disk stops.
The square slots are well made with a hand router. 🙂
Very cheap and very sulfuric.I will model something similar, only a little bit more colorful and preferably collapsible, if not needed. unscrewed quickly and does not take up space.
It was planned. easy and smart and the main thing for the removal-installation of the saw only needs to unscrew the nut. the elasticity of the tape is enough to screw it on by hand. it does not unscrew itself when working. so no wrenches needed
and with the saw removed. it’s just a workbench/supply/forest made of whatever (old boards). on the network a lot of similar, people often make similar machines from laminated plywood, but exactly as a “regular” machine. not a universal temporary
A rectangle is sawn with the same circular saw in 10 minutes, set the desired depth and go!))
Yes, but there are still corners that the circular saw does not take, or there will be long cuts.and then align inside is also not easy. I with a circular saw selected all that it can. and then chisel to adjust the edges and corners
kerf you do 1 mm alternately across the width, and then you can cut across, if the chisel to pick at the breaks for a long time, there is only a noodle to forge out)
yes so did, and t.к. I have a native Makita disk with tips. it slices very well sideways!So I sawed the strips, knocked them down with a hammer, then flattened everything with a side saw, and only the corners with a chisel