How to saw Laminated chipboard without chipping with a jigsaw

The use of an electric jigsaw

laminated, chipboard, chipping, jigsaw

An electric jigsaw can be used to accurately cut laminated particleboard. At the same time, it should be noted that this tool is preferably used to cut small sections on the wood. Also, when using a jigsaw, a saw blade with a small tooth size should be selected.

When sawing laminate flooring electric tool should be moved smoothly, without strong pressure. When sawing Laminated chipboard with the jigsaw, it is recommended to set the jigsaw speed to a low RPM.

Sawing methods Laminated chipboard without chips

Large woodworking companies use a cutting machine to cut laminated chipboards. Small workshops producing furniture also purchase one, but it is expensive, so as a home tool is impractical. If the question arises as to how to saw Laminated Chipboard without chipping, then as alternative methods for cutting you can choose sawing with a hacksaw, circular saw, cutter for Laminated Chipboard or electric jigsaw.

Using a hacksaw

Sawing Chipboard without splitting is not as easy as using a hand hacksaw to cut laminated chipboard. Although this is a cheap and affordable way.

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First you need to cut the sawing line with a knife, run a nail or an awl, and then glue a masking tape to protect the upper laminate layer. Then at an angle of 30 degrees carefully, without pressing hard, cut the material. The selected saw blade of the jigsaw should have fine teeth, so that the cut was as straight as possible.

The hacksaw can leave damage, which can be repaired with a belt sander, set perpendicularly, for subsequent edging.

In the final step it is worth sanding the cuts with fine sandpaper and closing with a flexible profile.

Electric jigsaw

Often an electric jigsaw is used to cut Laminated Hardboard. The basic prerequisite to neatly cut the plate. small size teeth.

When You Only Have a Jigsaw to Make a Straight Cut

A jigsaw is no substitute for a circular saw. к. it is mainly used as a cutting tool for small areas of boards. It should be used without much pressure, smoothly and not too quickly. If the sawmaker is inexperienced in sawing laminated chipboard, chipping on the underside can occur, but with practice the quality and appearance of the cut will improve.

With a circular saw

If the question arises as to what is used for sawing particleboard and which tool to choose, a circular saw is the right choice. also often called a circular saw. It is a circular tool that is fixed on a table. Many people wonder what circular saw blade to use. you need a circular saw with a fine-toothed circular saw blade. Better cuts are made than with a jigsaw.

For more accuracy, it is a good idea to mark out the guides and not to work at too high rpm.

Using a router

The panel cutter is not only used to cut panels, but also to drill holes, cut grooves, create edges, etc. п. It can be used to perform shape cutting. The tool is used together with a jigsaw. The panel is first cut with the jigsaw and then a cutter with a bearing is used to achieve the required depth of cut. How to drill, cut and saw panels with a router know professional sawyers. Using this tool, the cut is absolutely flat and accurate. However, it is a very time-consuming process that requires extra attention and special skills (for example, alignment of the template under the mill to the drilled or other surface), so it is better not to take up such work without experience, and order the sawing specialists. In some workshops such service is available. The main supplier of wood cutters is the company Topvoltage, ordering tools from them, you can do it with delivery.

Sawing with a format cutter

Using a circular sawmill ensures a clean cut and no splintering. These machines are used in production and are considered as specialized equipment.

  • The carriage. Allows the sliding table to move, but the platen is fixed in position.
  • Saw unit. With two flat metal disks: the first makes a presaw, the second makes the final cut through.
  • Stand. The machine rests entirely on it. Eliminates vibration and adds stability important for quality of cut.

Three workbenches: 1st: block position. 2nd (movable): feeding plates for sawing. 3rd: support of the sawn-off parts.

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The types of sawing machines depend on the amount of time they work continuously:

Depth of cut; plate position; angle of cut.

  • The slab is fixed to the table (movable carriage);
  • The workpiece is positioned according to the dimensional ruler and the saw unit is started;
  • when the disc has gained the desired speed, the table will move forward with the plate and hit the workpiece.

The use of formatting and cutting machines is appropriate for mass production, not for single cases. For a single use by yourself you can choose an easier tool or order a specialist to make the cut.

Sawing with undercutting

  • bar. the ruler is fixed to the board with clamps on the scythe line marking;
  • on the mowing line is pre-cut on one side with a depth of about 0.1-0.3 cm;
  • Then the other side of the board is finally cut through.

If everything is done carefully, there will not be any chips.

How to saw laminated chipboard without chipping at home

Chipboard. Chipboard. Used in furniture and decoration. Affordable price is a key feature. Modern woodworking uses laminated boards. They are made of coniferous and hardwood materials. They are robust and easy to machine. Incorrect cutting processes can lead to cracks and fractures. To avoid this, you should know what to do to saw laminated chipboard without chipping at home.

How to Saw Laminated Particle Board Without Chipping

Here, I have collected enough material and decided to write another policy brief. This time the topic of sawing Laminated Particle Board without splintering.

It is a common and fair assumption that clear-cutting of laminated chipboards is only possible with professional equipment (i.e. a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades that are positioned strictly on one axis. The first one undercuts the laminated chipboard, while the second one cuts it through.

(Of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN AMATEUR.

Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with their own hands, it is better to order the sawing of the sheet (five square meters piece) in the shop, and then quietly assemble it. BUT WHAT IF YOU MESS UP YOUR CALCULATIONS AND NEED TO CUT A PIECE? You don’t want to drag yourself back to the workshop, but it is necessary to cut a piece.

This article is intended to give an answer to this question. The review of options will go from the simple to the complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text 😉

The old-fashioned way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet Laminated wood chipboard covered with a thick layer of lacquer. Now it is rarely used. With it on a ruler scratched with an awl or a simple nail marking tape to the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we saw along the mowing line, trying to make sure that the edges of the teeth of the saw hit exactly in the scratch and not a step past. Sawing can be done both with a jigsaw and a hand hacksaw.

Basically, the right photo shows that all the chips are still on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed lesson on this method

The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chipping does occur. It’s hard to keep the tool strictly on the mowing line. Very slowly.

Method 2 Electric jigsaw

Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple jigsaw. For this it is necessary to fulfill several conditions. Firstly the saw has to have the smallest tooth profile (that means metal) and it has to be new. On one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side there will be chipping, but relatively small.

Secondly you have to feed the tool smoothly, without pressure. Set the revolutions not to the maximum (a little above the medium.

The disadvantage of the method is difficult enough to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Way 3 Circular saw

To work with the circular saw we need a finishing saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than jigsaws for making long, straight cuts. But chipping is much more common (the side where the tines cut into the material (bottom) is usually clean). Cuts off pieces from the opposite side (from above)).

It is possible to saw with a freely driven saw (it is rather difficult to guide exactly with a mowing line). Difficult to cut several identical pieces, much hassle with marking.

And with a table saw. Sawing is considerably easier when using guide rails. Both hands free. You can use a guide, which will increase the precision of the cut and allow you to stamp identical parts.

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Even with a finishing disc, there will be plenty of chipping on one side.

Method 4 Sawing with an undercut

This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, it would require a plunge saw, but in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw as well. To work we need a ruler (rail), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (in the photo a simple circular saw with a homemade rail).

A Neat Way To Cut Laminate. DIY At Bunnings

The trick is, by analogy with the formatting and cutting machine, to make two cuts strictly on one mowing line.

The guide rail (long ruler) will help us in this. The guide bar is placed on the marking line, and then we make the first cut, undercutting the laminate, a depth of about 6-10 mm. The teeth are almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing any of the pieces out. In the photo my domestic submersible saw Elitech highly recommended.

If you enlarge the photo, it looks like this

The second cut is through. In this case, as we remember, no splintering is produced at the point of entry of the tooth into the material. And at the exit the laminate is already cut and there is nothing to cut.

Another article about cutting with the professional plunge-cutting saw, it is true, but still an informative read.

Not a bad way to trim the wrong parts, but it’s not enough to cut the entire cabinet. Chips, of course, are present, but in number, quite consistent with the formatting tool (he too, in a secret, leaves a small amount of small chips). A lot of trouble with the marking. Can only make straight cuts.

Gives the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, no different from a formatting machine, often even better.

When it first saw a workpiece jigsaw, stepping back from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then align the line on the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a formatted, the appropriate size). Cutters must be copy cutter, i.e. with bearing.Very clean cut. Capable of making curved cuts, i.e. making many radiused parts, including several quite identical ones. Disadvantages a lot of work: the need for precise marking, pre-sawing workpieces, alignment of the template or bar under the milling machine, that is, for the mass application is not very suitable.

How to saw laminated chipboard with a jigsaw without chipping

In general, I have already considered this in a review article, which was dedicated to cutting Laminated chipboard without chipping without the use of a format-cutting machine.

Today I decided to dwell in more detail on the method available to the majority of home makers this sawing jigsaw, as this tool is very widespread. In this tutorial I used a Skill 4581LA household electric jigsaw. By the way, a very good machine.

To get the best possible cut, the following conditions must be met

In addition, for a cleaner cut we will use a modification such as a scrape saw. Its essence is that the laminate is scratched to its full depth and its pieces torn out by the teeth of the saw do not go beyond the edge of the scratch. Here are a few pictures to illustrate.

You have to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object, I used a drill bit, or you can use a self-drilling screw).) So that the ruler was not shifted in the process of scratching, I additionally fixed it with a clamp.

We scratch to the full depth of the laminate, that is, until the appearance of sawdust in the scratch.

Then we take a jigsaw and lead it in such a way that the saw was as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, and at the same time not going out beyond this boundary.

Thus, the chips are formed only on the unwanted side, not going beyond our measuring tape

Once again the same cut at the end of it. You can see that minimal chips are still there, although they can be on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired.

Certainly, there are peaks, capable to saw with the electric jigsaw rather smoothly. I’m not one of those guys. Of course, the class of the tool plays an important role too. Generally, an inexpensive tool does not have the same degree of stability as a professional saw. FOR this reason, it is pushed sideways when sawing.

In general, this method has the right to exist, but I would not advise to put it on stream.

Correction of splintering that has occurred

Any master should know not only how to saw with the jigsaw without chipping, but also how to correct it, if it does occur, because it’s almost impossible to avoid it.

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There is a way out. The tool cuts the workpiece with an allowance of about 2 mm, then the allowance is ground with a belt sander or milled. In the latter case, the edge is much cleaner than after grinding. Milling mainly on a self-made tire. The spiral cutters increase the quality, it is necessary to prepare two of them. If you need to get a clean one face side use an ordinary 2-pass cutter, both sides use a 4-pass cutter with 2 main branches, which have left direction, and 2 undercutting with right direction. In such a case, when cutting the workpiece, the lower branches pull the material upward, while the upper ones press it down. The result is no chipping of material at the edges.

Specialists recommend using a work area light for better control of cutting direction. Saw metal boards, wooden kitchen countertops and other products with a device with a well-sharpened saw blade.

Ensuring a clean cut

In many cases of machining material, the size of chips can be reduced to half a millimeter. Such minor flaws are not conspicuous, they can be removed by chamfering with an emery cloth or filling in the chips with a correcting pencil. It is also possible to sand the edge with an emery cloth or cut with a chisel.with a knife the top layer of the surface.

Begin by making two half-millimeter deep cuts on both sides of the workpiece, marking the thickness. On the edges of the cut you need to mark two grooves, which can be done with an oblique shoemaker or segment knife (for uncoated wood material or particle board), or with a sharp drill and a pobedite cutter (for laminate).

How to cut correctly and evenly

Material is sawn by preliminary marking (lines) or adjusted side stop. Sometimes it is convenient to clamp the jigsaws on the workpiece guide angle and move the edge of the jigsaw platform on it. It is calculated and measured where the saw will pass, not the edge of the platform.

The main question is which side to saw the laminate with the jigsaw, to lay the facing side down or up. There is no definite answer to this question. It all depends on the type of the saw and the material. To understand what side to put in each case, it is necessary to understand why this is important and why it happens differently.

If the laminate lies face down (laminate), the saw passes over the void. There is nothing to hold the cladding and the teeth can tear the material particles down into the hollow with the cladding.

If the laminate faces upwards, when sawing the teeth of the saw tend to pull its particles downwards, but they rest against the material itself, not in the void and therefore the laminate is held and tears less.

There’s nothing to argue about, just turn it upside down. But in two cases not so.

If the saw blade has the teeth pointing upwards it will tear the cladding and throw it upwards. If the material is faced on both sides, no chips are allowed from above or below.

The most important factor is the locking and guiding system of the saw blade. As a rule, in most models of jigsaws, it is represented by a pendulum clamp. It may tilt from its original position due to forces that occur during operation. Some models, such as the Festool PS300 EQ-Plus, have an additional guide rail that increases the quality of the cut.

Jigsaw with additional guide rail

The saw is subjected to side forces that cause it to vibrate and bend while working. As a result the saw blade deviates from its original position and you get an uneven cut.

In addition to this, the following factors influence the accuracy of the sawing:

  • The thickness of the material being sawed. As the area of contact between the saw and the material to be sawn increases, the frictional force increases and heats the blade, increasing its deformation;
  • material structure. The homogeneity of the material to be sawn has a direct impact on the accuracy of the cut. Internal stresses in it constantly tend to deflect the jigsaw blade from its straight direction;
  • saw quality. Manufacturing material, hardening technology compliance, angle and sharpening of the teeth directly affect the result of the work;
  • the speed at which the work is done. While sawing the workpiece, many users push the jigsaw too hard, trying to speed up the sawing process. As a result, it deviates from its intended trajectory.
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