How to take out a broken drill shank from a perforator

How to pull a broken drill shank out of a drill. Varieties and causes of jamming of the drill bit in the perforator

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People! My SDS drill shank broke. Part of the shank is left in the drill chuck. I tried light strokes to get the damn shank part out, but it won’t budge. How to help, if anyone has faced such a problem. You have to drill.

First remove the dust cover and the axle and through the hole for the ball

volvap wrote : Makita 3200 C

Do not tell me. Not a good idea to make a powerful, essentially SDS-max format pen with a dead plus chuck.

Is it difficult to remove the dust cover and the axle? Never did it.

Now I understand that the middle peorator should be with SDS-max, however, the problem must be solved.

If you don’t know how to take the chuck apart, take it to a service center. It’s not hard to take it apart though.

  • with a screwdriver (nail or t.п.) To push the broken off shank deep into the chuck until it stops
  • Push the cartridge stopper to open
  • You have to put the chuck “on full throttle” and the broken shank should come out. You might have to repeat it a couple of times. it depends on where the bit stops before pushing the shank through.

Thank you all for your help! I was very touched that so many people responded! Here is the status of things. I removed the rubber on the cartridge, by the way, it is very easy to remove, because it is not fixed in any way. Got to the shank mounting mechanism. For those who are not familiar with this device I will describe it in few words. The shank is inserted into the cylinder with side slots. This cylinder is in the other, smaller one, which is spring loaded and moves up and down. In the slots on the outside there are two metal balls (about 5 mm in diameter), they are not allowed to fall out by the second spring-loaded cylinder. So, I could get to the broken shank from above and from the side through the slots under the balls, as was advised by dear Lomaster from Novosibirsk. But the shank got jammed, so I couldn’t move it with a magnet or light strokes. I didn’t dare to wash it with WD, heat it, cool it down, because it was under warranty. In addition, the cartridge is covered with grease, the origin of which I don’t know. Either it’s the factory grease or it came from the shanks. I took the torch to a mechanics shop and they said it was not under warranty.е. repair for the money. Then they made the diagnosis: the tailstock is flattened, to get it out you need to dismantle the chuck thoroughly. The price for the repair has not been announced, Monday 7.06.2010 afternoon will tell the result. If anyone is interested to hear the end of the story, on Monday evening, Moscow time, I will announce the result. After all. I used Enkor drill bits, which I bought in Leroy Merlin for 180 apiece. Bits 25 mm x 150 mm.

How to take out a stuck drill bit from a chuck

In my time of construction work, the introduction of a gator becomes very necessary. It is used to drill various holes or to dismantle old cement and stone coatings. Often there is a situation where it is unrealistic to remove the drilling accessories from the chuck. How to remove the drill bit without help from others and with minimal risk of tool damage? For this purpose, you need to be aware of some peculiarities of the emergence of similar frosts in the operation of the tool.

If the drill bit has jammed in the chuck drop a few drops of oil into the joint.

Causes of drill bit jamming in the lever

The core bit can jam during the use of the torch, making it very difficult to remove the core bit from the chuck. Basically, such a problem can occur in 2 cases:

  • Drill bit jammed directly in chuck. adapter. As a rule, such an adapter is used during the drilling mode when there is a need to use an ordinary drill.
  • Drill bit wedging directly into the jaws of the power tool.

In the first case, the drill bit jams in the chuck. adapter that is used with the torch, because of the need to use the drilling mode without impact. This adapter should be inserted into the power tool‘s clamping jaws before use and then the drill bit should be inserted.

After all the work is complete, it may be a situation where it becomes problematic to remove the drill from the clamping element. In this case, therefore, special formulations are recommended for safe removal of the used drill bit. For example, for this purpose perfectly suits WD. 40.

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After application, this compound, in a short period of time, will be able to relax the clamp to such an extent that the drill can be dismantled without much effort. As an alternative to WD-40 you can use common kerosene. It should be applied to the mechanism, then wait 10 minutes and try to dismantle the drill by loosening it a little and tapping the chuck.

Quite often, when using the drill directly in the chuck of the power tool (without adapters) can be jammed, so it is sometimes very difficult to remove it. As a rule, this is due to the fact that the drill is made of low-quality material.

The rotary. percussion or simple percussion mode is used when the rotator is working. As a result, all energy is transferred to the drill from the special striker, which makes successive blows on its shank. The drill in its turn is equipped with special grooves, which are firmly secured by a clamping element after installation.

As a rule, low quality shanks are made of soft alloys that are not additionally heat-treated. As a result, they are not able to withstand a prolonged high load and become unusable, after which they jam.

How to take the shank out of the rotary drill chuck

The introduction of a rotary tool becomes indispensable at the time of construction work. When using it various holes are made, or otherwise to do the dismantling of old cement and stone coatings.

Often there is a situation where it is impossible to remove the drilling accessories from the chuck.

How to take out the drill bit without assistance of others and with minimum risk of tool damage? For this purpose, you need to be aware of certain features of the appearance of similar failures in the operation of the tool.

If the drill jammed in the chuck, you need to drop a few drops of oil into the joint.

Varieties and causes of jamming of the drill bit in the chuck

There are 4 variants of such a problem:

  • Drill bit jammed in the drill chuck or the adapter chuck to use an ordinary drill bit in the chuck;
  • Drill bit (drill bit) is stuck in the chuck.

The first variant appears because of the need to use an ordinary drill during work with the cutter. For this purpose, you have a transitional chuck, like an ordinary drill, it is inserted into the clamping device of the rotary table, and the drilling process is carried out.

At the end of work at times it is impossible to freely take out a drill bit because it is impossible to unscrew or unclog the jaws of the chuck. This problem is not difficult to solve.

Usually, the drill bit jams because the clamping device is not lubricated or is heavily contaminated.

To loosen the clamping mechanism, you need to drop there a special penetrating liquid, for example, WD-40, it is also possible to use kerosene. After 5-10 minutes, it is necessary to gently tap the chuck with a copper hammer, immediately with the other hand try to loosen the drill bit. After these manipulations, the mechanism can be unscrewed. When the cartridge is free, it should be cleaned and lubricated.

In the 2nd case, the drill bit is stuck in the drill chuck. This occurs for other reasons than jamming the drill bit in the chuck. The drill bit or twist drill bit in the drill bit chuck experience rotational and low impact loads, which are transferred to their body only through the chuck jaws and the unchanged stop at the bottom of the chuck.

The lever drill has a different force transmission mechanism and different kinematics of the drill bit in the chuck.

Because the chuck.

The drill bits and drills are powered by a special hammer, which is driven by the electric motor of the tool, and strikes the shank of the inserted appliances (drills, drills, bits, chisels).

The insertion tool has special grooves in its own body, using which their fixation in the calculated boundaries and the transmission of torque takes place. Bad tools have very soft steel, which has not been heat-treated, in the course of the peorator is riveting the shank, especially during long-term work.

How to extract the broken sds-drill from the peorator barrel

How to remove a broken SDS-drill from a peorator barrel

It is unreal to hook from the top, disassembling the chuck also.

Methods to help remove the drill

of course in a vice, if you clamp the drill there and pull out the drill by wrenching.

The design of the peorator chuck implies movement of the drilling (drilling) tool along the bore. When riveting (increasing the cross-section of the backside of the drill bit) occurs, the barrel does not allow the drill bit to freely exit. This is a more common cause of the problem. To try and remove the drill bit using the following methods, of course:

  • To clamp the jammed drill in a vice on the workbench, after completing, wiggle the tool from side to side, pull it personally.
  • Clamped specifically peorator in a huge bench vice in such a way as not to destroy its housing (use rubber pads). Then the drill should be clamped using a gas wrench (no. 1) or a small vice and the copper hammer should be beaten on it. The vector of the impact direction must coincide with the direction in which the tool comes out of the chuck.

Both methods of course use penetrating water. The cause of jamming is operation without lubrication and clogging. Fixing the ball, if it got under a scale or otherwise hard stones may not release the drill. To avoid this, it is absolutely necessary to lubricate the drill shank afterwards

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because of spinning in the chuck itself, the chuck components must be removed by removing the rubber cap and the retaining ring. Or try to turn back the drill bit by 90° (the direction of the turn can be seen from the notches on the drill bit and chuck jaws). Turning the drill bit usually results in the following replacement of the jamming device parts.

It should be borne in mind that when working for a long time with a bad tool, there is a powerful deformation of the shank, so the proposed methods do not succeed in recovering the drill.

In this case a complete disassembly of the rotary table is needed, and then the stuck drill bit should be knocked out with a hammer

Because of the similar operation will need to change the tool barrel. The scheme of disassembling of many devices is personal, therefore it is better to find the assembly drawing of all units. Still, without locksmith skills, you do not need to create a disassembly and repair of the barrel assembly. In this case it is better to go to a workshop.

It is possible to take out the drill by the suggested methods after the first 2-3 strokes of adequate force. If there is no notable movement, the following attempts to knock out the chisel lead to damage to the rotary table.

Tips for avoiding a similar situation

The introduction of branded drills is a guarantee that the drill bit in the pen will not get stuck. Alas, modern construction equipment outlets of course sell counterfeit products. To avoid accidents, it is necessary to test-drill with purchased drill bits.

If, after making a few holes, the drill is silent through the shank.

, the tool is of high quality. On the contrary happens riveting, it is very likely to be able to remove the drill without disassembling, because the deformation will not be strong. It is fundamental not to miss the moment of the occurrence of difficulties in movement along the bore. From time to time, very massive tools are used to drill holes in materials that are not suitable for such drills. The drill bits, even if they are of high quality, can not withstand severe loads and become deformed.

Removal of a chip with two screwdrivers

A more complicated case is when the drill bit breaks below the surface of the part, inside its body. The edge cannot be caught with pliers in this situation. Therefore, a device made of two thin screwdrivers will be needed:

  • both screwdrivers alternately go all the way into the hole along the screw grooves, as if encircling the chip on both sides;
  • The handles of the screwdrivers are firmly clamped by hand;
  • Use a counterclockwise motion to remove the splinter from the part.

In essence, this is an imitation of the option of extracting the chip with pliers. It is good if the drill bit is loose enough in the hole and is not jammed or bent.

If the chip yields hard and there is not enough hand strength to fix it well with the screwdrivers, it is necessary to press their rods with pliers or pliers with the other hand.

Some tips for using the tool

It would be useful to remind you how to work with the torque ratchet. This information will be helpful to beginner builders.

  • Use protective equipment at work: earplugs, gloves, goggles.
  • No force should be exerted on the drill during operation.
  • Do not let the machine run idle.
  • In the case of the processed material has an increased hardness, it is necessary to apply lubrication. Oil can be used as an alternative to grease.
  • If a long drill bit is used, drilling must be made shorter.
  • To extend tool life you should periodically cool the auger in water or oil, take breaks in work.

The torch has become a part of the builder’s and fitter’s life today. This tool will serve you for a long time if treated properly.

With the advent of reinforced concrete structures no internal or external repair can do without a peorator. There is a great variety of such devices on the market. However, the basic mechanisms work in about the same way. This is especially true when re-installing the drills.

Local disassembly of the chuck

The chuck can be disassembled partially with a flat-blade screwdriver if it is jammed inside the retainer seat:

  • The dust cover can be removed by gently prying up on its edges.
  • The seat and stop ring underneath allow pressure to be applied to the edge of the chuck and can then be used to free the drill bit.
  • To make it easier to remove the drill bit, use a flat-blade screwdriver to lift the stopper.

This kind of disassembly increases the free movement, so that the drill can be easily taken out. Then the working tool is reassembled.

How to remove a broken drill shank from the drill bit

We recently had a small emergency on the site. Namely, the chisel broke and its tail stayed in the chuck. It can happen not only with a chisel, but also with any drill. The chuck was left with a chisel tail and there was no way to get it out on the spot. The fingers in the chuck will not fit and neither will the needle-nose pliers. Immediately all work in the apartment stopped, because at that time at the site was only one torch and there was nothing to replace it. What to do? We had to wrap it up and go home. And the practitioner’s broad chisel broke on the very first day))) Could not stand our pace ))))

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In the photo below you can see the tail of the chisel in the chuck. We were worried about it jamming there. We started to look for something to grab it with and try to pull it out.

In the end we had at hand small thin pliers with very long and, most importantly, very thin jaws. Ordinary electrician fine pliers did not fit, as they need to be opened in the chuck to grasp the broken tail of the chisel.

We inserted them open with little effort into the cartridge and managed to grasp the edge of the splinter after all.

In a couple of seconds the broken SDS-plus tail of the chisel was extracted from the chuck. We were very lucky that it wasn’t jammed in there. You can see on the photo below, that the jaws of the tool in the place of the grip don’t protrude beyond the size of the piece. If the jaws of the needle-nose pliers were any thicker, they wouldn’t fit in the chuck.

Such a story happened to us )))) Now it works as if nothing had happened))))

Have you ever had a drill break in a peorator?? How did you get the broken tails out of the chuck??

How do they differ?

An impact drill and peorator, though they have common features, also have a number of differences that determine which tool is better for a particular type of work at home.


This indicator of the peorator in the process of drilling is many times greater than that of an impact drill. First of all, it has to do with impact energy. Lightweight torches produce 1.5 kJ and heavy torches up to 20 kJ. But for the drill, this indicator is insignificant and depends on the weight that is applied to the surface. But even if the master presses very hard, the impact energy almost does not increase. This is due to the modest amplitude of the axial movement of the drill bit, which depends on the size of the shank. The performance of the rotary drill is also higher because of its greater weight, which exceeds the weight of an impact drill even if their power outputs are equal. The impact frequency of the percussion drill ranges from 4,000 to 4,500 blows per minute, and in powerful drills it reaches 2,000 to 3,000.

Important! If you drill a hole with two tools of equal power, the drill will be 1.5 times as big as the drill. The size difference is even greater if a core bit is used.


The impact drill is adapted for operation with two functions: drilling with and without impact. A large number of drills are available on the market for use on different materials.

The basic tooling that is used most often:

  • Simple wood drill bits (including feather drill bits);
  • stronger drills for metal coatings;
  • Lance drills for ceramics and glass (allow you to make a hole in a tile);
  • core drills (made to create large holes);
  • drills with high-strength pobedite tips (replaces the main function of the pobedite drills);
  • Grinding wheel (for polishing the material);
  • brushes with twisted or fluted wire (for roughing and finishing work)
  • mixer is used for mixing construction mixtures.

Most of today’s full-featured models operate in three modes: chipping, rotating, and rotating with impact. The peorator therefore works both for drilling and for gouging, chipping, and piercing.

The following tasks are performed using the peorator:

  • drilling holes and slots in concrete, bricks, blocks;
  • wall drilling;
  • hammering in rods;
  • plaster removal;
  • drilling holes;
  • screws, screws and self-tapping screws;
  • chipping bricks;
  • Tile knockdown.

You can’t do without a peorator in many situations. Runs fast and almost no kickback. When performing tasks, do not put too much pressure on the device, it will cause damage. Sufficient force that can be applied to the tool is 5 kg.

Total weight

The weight of both tools can vary greatly depending on the specific model and design. There is a classification of peorators according to weight:

Average drill weights range between 1 and 4 kg.

How to save a key cam chuck

If it is just light corrosion or a warped drill, you will need a torque wrench, chisel or screwdriver, and a 700 g hammer:

broken, drill, shank, perforator
  • Spray a rust dissolver, grease or machine / any mineral oil into the chuck.
  • Allow it to stand for 5 to 20 minutes.
  • Use a gas or plumber’s wrench to clamp the chuck so that the drill is on the left hand.
  • Secure the construction with a vise, clamp, or simply with your feet.
  • Place the screwdriver on the clamping ring, in the slot between the teeth, tilted away from you.
  • It is calculated to hit the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer, forcing the ring to turn.

If you have two gas wrenches, you can try turning both rings in different directions at the same time.

Tip Be sure to inspect the cartridge for grooves, dents, or other defects inside the cartridge. If so, it is better to change the nozzle. Open the chuck as much as possible and unscrew the screw on the “bottom” to remove the nozzle.

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