Is it possible to brew a chainsaw piston. The cylinder-piston group

Installation of a piston group 58cm on a chainsaw

Having read on the Internet of tips on how to run a chainsaw correctly, many begin to spoil their device, significantly reducing its service life.

Fortunately for the owners and especially those who give harmful advice. Damage obtained with improper run.In, are far from noticeable, since the new device is very difficult to spoil uniformly. Therefore, everything seems to be fine, and the breakdowns and repairs will be later, everything will be written off for marriage, poor gasoline or shortcomings of the manufacturer. Do not repeat other people’s mistakes! However, about everything in order.

Other reasons

Not always the reasons for turning off the chainsaws lie on the surface. If all the methods listed above did not help, other fault options remain.

The following elements are subjected to diagnosis:

7 Speed Piston Powered Engine using Binary! (Scrap Mechanic #204)

Users who are poorly versed in the device of saws are not recommended to conduct a deep review on their own. Inaccurate actions can lead to a serious breakdown of the tool.

The reasons for the breakdown of the carburetor are different:

To assess the condition of the carburetor, it is recommended to show the tool in the service center. Preference is given to branded centers, whose experts know about the features of the unit of a particular manufacturer.

Despite its impressive appearance, a chainsaw is a fragile tool to which it is important to find the right approach. For the correct operation, it is important to supply the saw with high.Quality fuel and not allow its stagnation in the tank

In order not to remain in a hopeless situation, it is advisable to get acquainted with the structure of the unit and its internal elements in detail the owner of the chainsaw.

Problems of independent repair

The problem in many cases is complicated by the lack of full.Fledged information on repair technology. According to foreign manufacturers, after the development of the saw, the saw should be written off in the scrap, so the maintainability of many budget level models causes reasonable doubts.

They are more difficult to restore a professional class chainsaw.

  • The problem is complicated by the high cost of spare parts.
  • It is possible that to restore the performance of individual nodes and mechanisms, in particular, special equipment will be required to set up fuel equipment.

Replacing expensive branded parts affordable in cost, but in short.Lived Chinese analogues in economically does not justify itself. Practice shows that these components produce a resource at best by 50-60%.

What is the carburetor in your chainsaw?

The carburetor extracted from the chainsaw and peeled from the carbar looks something like this in most models. The figure clearly visible the designations of the adjusting screws.It is easy to remember their designation:

  • LA (in some models T). Idle adjustment. This screw is bred in all chainsaws.
  • L and h. Adjustment of the position of the brown levers (gaps for the supply of fuel), that is, the choice of optimal revolutions at load. In separate tools, especially inexpensive, they are not displayed out, but the holes, so that they can get to them without removing the cover, are usually decorated with plastic tubes. The screw l is regulated by the flow of the fuel mixture into the engine at low speeds, with a screw H. With high.

The owner of the chainsaw of a special adjustable stand does not, and prefers the adjustment without disassembling the unit or disassemble it minimally. Before the first disassembly, it is necessary to study the operating instructions, especially the section describing the design and containing a set of sketches. This preparation will not carry out unnecessary work on disassembly-assembly.

List of the main details of chainsaws

Any gasoline saw consists of the following main details:

Rear handle. Supports that allow a person to keep the tool. Thanks to the gas trigger located on it, a throttle opens;

Fuel tank-containers for flooding the cooked fuel gas-oil mixture designed to work two-stroke engines;

Ignition systems necessary for timely ignition of fuel in the cylinder by creating an electric discharge that breaks the space between the electrodes of the candles;

Starter handles. Allowing to launch an internal combustion engine in manual mode. To launch the motor, it is necessary that the crankshaft connected to the starter make several revolutions;

Oil tank. Containers for pouring chain oil intended for lubricating the cutting part of the mechanism (chain, tire, asterisk);

The front handle. The main handle to keep the tool in the process of work;

The brakes of the quapi. A lock, for instant stopping the circuit with an uncontrolled, sharp movement of the tool back, fraught with serious injuries for the operator;

Guide tires (sawy canvas). A fixed guide canvas along which the chain moves;

Saw chain. The main element that ensures the full operation of the tool.

Familiarization with the main components of the chainsaw and their functional features is necessary for beginners before starting work. As a rule, all technical problems are due to breakdowns of internal mechanisms.

How the cylinder block is repaired?

For recovery, the master completely disassembles the motor and examines its working parts. Measurements are made that allow you to accurately evaluate the condition of the equipment and understand what repair procedures you need to perform. During major repairs, there is a binder of parts if they are made of suitable materials for this.

The recovery process also includes other stages:

  • Assessment of the efficiency of the piston stroke, measured the created compression in the working chamber;
  • Checking the integrity of the equipment, searching for the presence of mechanical damage, scratches;
  • Analysis of the state of fasteners of the piston, elimination of backlash and other problems;
  • Checking other equipment that affects the work of the piston group.

To restore the chainsaw cylinder successfully, the master conducts a number of checks after the assembly of the equipment. It is important that the power corresponds to the factory parameters, and in idle work and under load of the saw, it demonstrates stable speeds. Only after such checks can the repair of equipment be considered completed.

Is it possible to brew a chainsaw piston

The experience of repairing a piston pair of the Partner 371 chainsaw or repair of a chainsaw at home (on the knee) in a short time;)

Prestoria. We had a chainsaw Partner bo the model unknown, but powerful, brought from Finland. It happened like this. That at one point, the ignition coil unscrewed, the one that is standing on Magneto, hit the impeller on this coil and she cracked all, after searching for the reel, a year later my father bought a shaft “Shtill” T.To. They could not find a reel and in those days with spare parts there was a huge problem. Recently, in search of pipes for the mast, I came across an announcement about the sale of the Partner 371 chainsaw for the SS I hoped to buy a coil from it if it was suitable instead of that. What broke down with us, a person said that he would only sell and that its engine was a bunker and sell a saw for 1000 rubles t.To. It’s reluctance because of one coil, I agreed with one condition that before buying, we will open the lid and I will compare the reels on the dimensions and fasten it, the coil was slightly different but it was possible to attach it to our saw, it turned out that the seller was my long-standing familiar. Our town. Big village 🙂 but not the point, this is not the point at all. This is a prestory;)

After I stayed on one with a saw, I decided to make it out, I like to dig into the pieces of iron, like a child with toys 🙂 Yes, I forgot to write that this person passed this saw for repairs and they told him that the repair would cost 4500r. We need to replace the piston, cylinder and compression ring, t.To. New saw costs 7300r. The former owner refused to repair and decided to buy a new chainsaw.

The saw figured it out almost completely for 20-30 minutes very easily, only I did not pull the crankshaft from the lower half of the engine, t.To. There I needed a shooter and a special key to remove the leading pulley (stars under the chain), and he did not allow to pull the crankshaft through the plastic case of the saw. Having examined the cylinder and the piston really turned out to be. That there are several bully on the piston, a compression ring and one bully on the cylinder. Before disassembling, the engine was jammed. Thinking. That a clear is not terrible, how they prayed it, I decided to try this saw using the same piston and a cylinder with a ring, in short. Without additional financial costs. All engine repair work took one night from 10 p.M. To 6 a.M. With full disassembly, cleaning. Repair, assembly and testing. I advise you to drain the chain and gasoline oil from the saw so as not to dilute the dirt. I did not merge, so there were a little gasoline, and there were small spots from the oil on the floor, although the torn plastic bag was laid down at the place of action.

I will not talk about the assembly and disassembly. I unscrewed all the visible bolts (self-tapping screws) and nuts and saw it, the main thing is to remember where what were stood, I need a key for 8 by 6 and I don’t remember the number, yes, another 17 key is for a candle. 😉 Well, when assembly, you need a heat.Resistant silicone, for example red, t.To. The engine will half half and there is no gasket at this place, and the connection is flooded with black silicone at the factory.

The essence of the main work was as follows: it was necessary to remove the bullying and sanded, but not zealous, but only in order for the piston without a compessive ring to go freely in the cylinder, previously lubricated with cyatim or solidol, you can’t push the bummed piston into the cylinder with an effort. Scratch the surface of the piston pair even more, and the jammed engine cannot be scrolled by force. Scratch and lift even more a piston and a cylinder so that it does not make sense to restore, t.To. There will be a big loss of compression. Tools for grinding and consumables were needed as follows: the suprafille is flat and semicircular, sandpaper (large sandpaper cannot be used!), Cyatim to verify the sliding of the piston in the cylinder, gasoline for wiping the piston and cylinder. To begin with, we wash the piston and cylinder with gasoline with a brush, clean the carpet in the upper part of the cylinder and the piston, I cleaned the strong carcass with a scalpel, but make sure that the cylinder mirror is not touched (yes, the cylinder does not have a completely cast and has a head, t.E. The candle is twisted directly into the upper part of the cylinder), after cleaning from the carrier, we thoroughly wipe with gasoline again, we observe the cleanliness at the workplace any squeak in the mirror. This is another scratch and a backbone! Having examined the piston, we look at the convex darling and slowly grind them with a flat suprafil, then grind them without zealous only in the places where there were no back and scratches and also slightly grind it, t.To the edge of scratches also protrudes above the cylindrical surface of the piston. Important. Skill with zero only in the direction of the parallel border of the compression ring! T.To. Longitudinal scratches reduce compression, and transverse is gradually polished during the operation of the saw. You can check the convex blockages by the edge of the steel ruler, applying it along the piston and look at the lumen of the adjacent of the ruler to the piston surface. I did everything by eye. I looked along the surface of the piston. Now the cylinder, the bullying in the cylinder is stuck in a semicircular suprafil, as well as movements across the direction of the piston, then nulevka. After performing the work, wash the piston and cylinder once with gasoline. We wipe the dry with a clean rag, not pressing it very much to the surface, so that the grain of the grain of the rag does not make another scratch, then blow out the wiped piston and the cylinder (I blown with my lungs :))), the effect will be better compressed air. We do this in order to exclude the dug of grains of sand and foreign bodies on the piston and cylinder before checking. Piston and cylinder false on a white piece of paper. Now the main thing is clean! I wash your hands properly and dry, there should not be dirty sands of sawdust of wooden and metallic;) take pure cylinder and with a thin layer with a finger we coat the cylinder mirror and the piston surface and insert the piston into the cylinder with our hands, without effort, insert the piston likely He stood in a chainsaw and do not unfold it 180 degrees. T.To. He has already developed with the cylinder in a certain position, so he should stand! If the piston easily walked from beginning to end of its working course, then the grinding is over, we proceed to the processing of the ring. On the compression ring, most likely there are also bully, or rather scratches, if they are deep, you will have to buy two new rings, later I will explain why, if they are not deep, then we clean the ring so that the scratches disappear in the outer part of the ring by the derivative of the ring if the scratches disappear if When hesitating, the outer turn of the ring acquired a slightly semicircular look. It’s not scary, t.To. This ring will be used only to develop an already assembled engine and this half.Thoroughness of the outer surface of the ring will create a sparing rigimes, t.To. The surface of the contact will be smaller and not all oil from the cylinder will be removed, after a weekly grinding, it will be necessary to replace the ring with a new. I bought a ring in a store for 90 rubles. If there is no way to buy a new ring, then you can leave it like this, but keep in mind the compression will be somewhat worse, and therefore the power of the saw is slightly less. After grinding the ring, wash it in gasoline into the piston, make sure that the ring is inserted correctly, there, in the section of the ring, there is a seizure under the pin on the piston, lubricate the ring installed on the piston and insert it into the cylinder, check the piston stroke with the ring. The course should be light and uniform, if everything is so, then you can assemble the engine and saw for grinding in operation. The piston and cylinder during assembly should be lubricated with cyatim must and is unacceptable to get dirt and grains of sand. Before assembling the engine, the saw was chicly cleaned from sawdust of the dirt and rubber oil “Galosha”, the essence is that foreign bodies are unacceptable into the engine crankcase, t.To. It was problematic to extract the crankcase from the saw building and the lower part remained in the dirty saw of the saw with the crankshaft, the inner cavity of the crankcase was pumped with a clean rag and white napkins for wiping the monitors and plastic by winding of rags on the crankshaft and turning it together with a rag, this kissed was repeated until those then until the white napkins stopped getting dirty and pull the garbage with them. Do not forget that the saw develops 12,000 sides/min and any squeak can cause jamming of the piston pair, plus this sandstone at such revolutions. This is the same. What to draw on the surface of the piston. T.To. CCITIM has the property of glue all the dirt on yourself, then observe the complete cleanliness of the interruption by assembly of the engine. Increase it until it is completely assembly, shake all the dirt and scale from the silencer, through the carburetor opening (absorbed collector), you can also get dirty, be careful! When assembling, do not forget about silicone at the junction of two parts of the engine, it must be smeared exactly along the groove in the lower half of the engine and not very much, t.To. Large surpluses can be squeezed inside the crankcase, which is not good! After the full assembly, we give the silicone for 2-3 hours, it is better than 24 hours;) then, with the screwed candles, we put the head with a rod on the winger mounting, which is clamped in the electric drill and twist the engine shaft, thereby pulling the piston with the ring to the cylinder in front the first launch of the chainsaw, first at small speeds, then we smoothly increase them within 2-3 minutes. Everything is ready for the first launch of the chainsaw. We make a test launch of a saw per 100 grams of diluted gasoline 1:40 to wash the remains of cyatim from the walls of the cylinder. At the time of the grinding, we do not warm up the saw and do not gas, if the air output from the blowing became significantly warm (this happens after about 5 minutes), then we muffle the saw and let it cool. We drive a saw for five minutes per hour all day at idle for 10-12 hours for 5 minutes every hour on a mixture of gasoline 1:30, the next day in the same way but melting, on the third day for 5 minutes but under a short load of the type to drain the branches, Thin boards, sticks, on the 4th day we let the saw work for 10 minutes for a native mixture 1:40, but without overheating it! 5 days of running.In is enough, after the running.In, you can put a new ring and clean up the carbon felted up from an increased concentration of oil and drive a saw under a weak load for another day. Well, you went through all the stages and drank again in the ranks, albeit with a slightly lifted piston and cylinder, the power has decreased slightly, but this is not scary, t.To. Long working, serviceable saws also lose power and compression due to the natural production of the piston surfaces and cylinder.

Is it possible to brew a chainsaw piston

The experience of repairing a piston pair of the Partner 371 chainsaw or repair of a chainsaw at home (on the knee) in a short time

Prestoria. We had a chainsaw Partner bo the model unknown, but powerful, brought from Finland. It happened like this. That at one point, the ignition coil unscrewed, the one that is standing on Magneto, hit the impeller on this coil and she cracked all, after searching for the reel, a year later my father bought a shaft “Shtill” T.To. They could not find a reel and in those days with spare parts there was a huge problem. Recently, in search of pipes for the mast, I came across an announcement about the sale of the Partner 371 chainsaw for the SS I hoped to buy a coil from it if it was suitable instead of that. What broke down with us, a person said that he would only sell and that its engine was a bunker and sell a saw for 1000 rubles t.To. It’s reluctance because of one coil, I agreed with one condition that before buying, we will open the lid and I will compare the reels on the dimensions and fasten it, the coil was slightly different but it was possible to attach it to our saw, it turned out that the seller was my long-standing familiar. Our town. Big village but not the point, this is not at all the case. This is a prestory

After I still decided to make it out on one with a saw, I like to dig into the pieces of iron, like a child with toys yes, I forgot to write that this person handed over this saw for repairs and they told him that the repair would cost 4500r. We need to replace the piston, cylinder and compression ring, t.To. New saw costs 7300r. The former owner refused to repair and decided to buy a new chainsaw.

The saw figured it out almost completely for 20-30 minutes very easily, only I did not pull the crankshaft from the lower half of the engine, t.To. There I needed a shooter and a special key to remove the leading pulley (stars under the chain), and he did not allow to pull the crankshaft through the plastic case of the saw. Having examined the cylinder and the piston really turned out to be. That there are several bully on the piston, a compression ring and one bully on the cylinder. Before disassembling, the engine was jammed. Thinking. That a clear is not terrible, how they prayed it, I decided to try this saw using the same piston and a cylinder with a ring, in short. Without additional financial costs. All engine repair work took one night from 10 p.M. To 6 a.M. With full disassembly, cleaning. Repair, assembly and testing. I advise you to drain the chain and gasoline oil from the saw so as not to dilute the dirt. I did not merge, so there were a little gasoline, and there were small spots from the oil on the floor, although the torn plastic bag was laid down at the place of action.

I will not talk about the assembly and disassembly. I unscrewed all the visible bolts (self-tapping screws) and nuts and saw it, the main thing is to remember where what were stood, I need a key for 8 by 6 and I don’t remember the number, yes, another 17 key is for a candle. Well, when assembly, you need heat.Resistant silicone, for example red, t.To. The engine will half half and there is no gasket at this place, and the connection is flooded with black silicone at the factory.

The essence of the main work was as follows: it was necessary to remove the bullying and sanded, but not zealous, but only in order for the piston without a compessive ring to go freely in the cylinder, previously lubricated with cyatim or solidol, you can’t push the bummed piston into the cylinder with an effort. Scratch the surface of the piston pair even more, and the jammed engine cannot be scrolled by force. Scratch and lift even more a piston and a cylinder so that it does not make sense to restore, t.To. There will be a big loss of compression. Tools for grinding and consumables were needed as follows: the suprafille is flat and semicircular, sandpaper (large sandpaper cannot be used!), Cyatim to verify the sliding of the piston in the cylinder, gasoline for wiping the piston and cylinder. To begin with, we wash the piston and cylinder with gasoline with a brush, clean the carpet in the upper part of the cylinder and the piston, I cleaned the strong carcass with a scalpel, but make sure that the cylinder mirror is not touched (yes, the cylinder does not have a completely cast and has a head, t.E. The candle is twisted directly into the upper part of the cylinder), after cleaning from the carrier, we thoroughly wipe with gasoline again, we observe the cleanliness at the workplace any squeak in the mirror. This is another scratch and a backbone! Having examined the piston, we look at the convex darling and slowly grind them with a flat suprafil, then grind them without zealous only in the places where there were no back and scratches and also slightly grind it, t.To the edge of scratches also protrudes above the cylindrical surface of the piston. Important. Skill with zero only in the direction of the parallel border of the compression ring! T.To. Longitudinal scratches reduce compression, and transverse is gradually polished during the operation of the saw. You can check the convex blockages by the edge of the steel ruler, applying it along the piston and look at the lumen of the adjacent of the ruler to the piston surface. I did everything by eye. I looked along the surface of the piston. Now the cylinder, the bullying in the cylinder is stuck in a semicircular suprafil, as well as movements across the direction of the piston, then nulevka. After performing the work, wash the piston and cylinder once with gasoline. We wipe the dry with a clean rag, not pressing it very much to the surface, so that the grain of the grain of the rag does not make the next scratch, then blow out the wiped piston and the cylinder (I blown with my lungs), the effect will be better with air with air. We do this in order to exclude the dug of grains of sand and foreign bodies on the piston and cylinder before checking. Piston and cylinder false on a white piece of paper. Now the main thing is clean! I wash your hands properly and dry, there should not be dirty sands of wooden and metal sands with a pure cylinder and with a thin layer with your finger we coat the cylinder mirror and the piston surface and insert the piston into the cylinder with our hands, without effort, insert the piston as it stood as it stood as it stood as it stood as it stood as it stood in a chainsaw and do not unfold it 180 degrees. T.To. He has already developed with the cylinder in a certain position, so he should stand! If the piston easily walked from beginning to end of its working course, then the grinding is over, we proceed to the processing of the ring. On the compression ring, most likely there are also bully, or rather scratches, if they are deep, you will have to buy two new rings, later I will explain why, if they are not deep, then we clean the ring so that the scratches disappear in the outer part of the ring by the derivative of the ring if the scratches disappear if When hesitating, the outer turn of the ring acquired a slightly semicircular look. It’s not scary, t.To. This ring will be used only to develop an already assembled engine and this half.Thoroughness of the outer surface of the ring will create a sparing rigimes, t.To. The surface of the contact will be smaller and not all oil from the cylinder will be removed, after a weekly grinding, it will be necessary to replace the ring with a new. I bought a ring in a store for 90 rubles. If there is no way to buy a new ring, then you can leave it like this, but keep in mind the compression will be somewhat worse, and therefore the power of the saw is slightly less. After grinding the ring, wash it in gasoline into the piston, make sure that the ring is inserted correctly, there, in the section of the ring, there is a seizure under the pin on the piston, lubricate the ring installed on the piston and insert it into the cylinder, check the piston stroke with the ring. The course should be light and uniform, if everything is so, then you can assemble the engine and saw for grinding in operation. The piston and cylinder during assembly should be lubricated with cyatim must and is unacceptable to get dirt and grains of sand. Before assembling the engine, the saw was chicly cleaned from sawdust of the dirt and rubber oil “Galosha”, the essence is that foreign bodies are unacceptable into the engine crankcase, t.To. It was problematic to extract the crankcase from the saw building and the lower part remained in the dirty saw of the saw with the crankshaft, the inner cavity of the crankcase was pumped with a clean rag and white napkins for wiping the monitors and plastic by winding of rags on the crankshaft and turning it together with a rag, this kissed was repeated until those then until the white napkins stopped getting dirty and pull the garbage with them. Do not forget that the saw develops 12,000 sides/min and any squeak can cause jamming of the piston pair, plus this sandstone at such revolutions. This is the same. What to draw on the surface of the piston. T.To. CCITIM has the property of glue all the dirt on yourself, then observe the complete cleanliness of the interruption by assembly of the engine. Increase it until it is completely assembly, shake all the dirt and scale from the silencer, through the carburetor opening (absorbed collector), you can also get dirty, be careful! When assembling, do not forget about silicone at the junction of two parts of the engine, it must be smeared exactly along the groove in the lower half of the engine and not very much, t.To. Large surpluses can be squeezed inside the crankcase, which is not good! After full assembly, let’s freeze the silicone for 2-3 hours, better 24 hours, with a twisted candles, We put on the tip of the impeller mount the head with a rod, which is clamped in the electric drill and twist the engine shaft with an electric drill, thereby leaving the piston with the ring to the cylinder in front of the first startup, first at small speeds, then we smoothly increase them within 2-3 minutes. Everything is ready for the first launch of the chainsaw. We make a test launch of a saw per 100 grams of diluted gasoline 1:40 to wash the remains of cyatim from the walls of the cylinder. At the time of the grinding, we do not warm up the saw and do not gas, if the air output from the blowing became significantly warm (this happens after about 5 minutes), then we muffle the saw and let it cool. We drive a saw for five minutes per hour all day at idle for 10-12 hours for 5 minutes every hour on a mixture of gasoline 1:30, the next day in the same way but melting, on the third day for 5 minutes but under a short load of the type to drain the branches, Thin boards, sticks, on the 4th day we let the saw work for 10 minutes for a native mixture 1:40, but without overheating it! 5 days of running.In is enough, after the running.In, you can put a new ring and clean up the carbon felted up from an increased concentration of oil and drive a saw under a weak load for another day. Well, you went through all the stages and drank again in the ranks, albeit with a slightly lifted piston and cylinder, the power has decreased slightly, but this is not scary, t.To. Long working, serviceable saws also lose power and compression due to the natural production of the piston surfaces and cylinder.

How to replace the piston of the chainsaw of Stihl 180

If you need to replace the old piston and install a new one, you need to know how to do it correctly and follow a certain algorithm. It is also necessary to have a small slotted screwdriver, a special combined stihl wrench, an electric screwdriver, a hammer, a soft material drift, a compressor and a stop for a stihl piston.

When replacing a piston or piston group of a chainsaw should be as clean as possible from pollution. Further work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  • The upper cover is removed from the saw and the spark plug is lit.
  • Remove the side cover.
  • Using a screwdriver with an electric drive, the plugs are removed from the chainsaw shock absorbers, after which their handle is disconnected from the housing.
  • Next, remove the drive star and starter.
  • Set the piston stoppack in the spark plug hole and loosen the lock of the flywheel and clutch.
  • Remove the flywheel, gear of clutch and oil pump behind the clutch.
  • Remove two screws that attach the carburetor and air filter. Remove the filter, engine control lever and STIHL carburetor.
  • Remove the ignition coil and muffler.

After all these operations are performed, clean the file again, then turn it over and unscrew the four screws with which the engine is attached to the chainsaw body. After unscrewing the screws, the engine separates from the body and is cleaned again.

On the engine removed, the pallet is unwound and the pallet rises, after which the piston node with a crankshaft is removed from the engine.

When removing the piston from the cylinder, it should be remembered that it is located relative to the cylinder.

Stop rings of the piston finger are then removed with a small screwdriver, and the crankshaft is disconnected from the piston.

If you only need to replace the piston, you can install it on the crankshaft, and then install the piston finger of the locking rings, placing them so that the gap point of rupture is directed downward. This allows us to exclude the possibility of spontaneous clap of the locking ring during the engine operation (in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer STIHL). After that, compression rings are installed, the cylinder is lubricated with engine oil and the engine is assembled.

The installation of the piston in the cylinder should be performed as neatly as possible, since the clamping rings are fragile and easily break.

The engine crankcase is installed on the engine, the sealant is used as a gasket, after which the four fasteners are attached and crossed is tightened and delayed. Then the engine is installed on the chainsaw housing. Subsequent assembly is performed using the reverse disassembly algorithm.

Stihl MS260 Pro Chainsaw Cylinder and Piston Replacement

Why is the stihl chainsaw does not start after replacing the piston

If the saw does not start after replacing the piston, it is necessary to check the fuel supply to the chamber and diagnose the ignition system. Very often, when installing the control lever on the chainsaw, the masters forget to connect the wires coming from the ignition coil, as a result of which the spark disappears, and the dust does not begin.

The problem can also be hidden in the captured fuel hose or if it is not connected at all. Of course, there may be many reasons, but it should be remembered that if all the work on replacing the piston is performed correctly, the tool should start and work normally without problems.

In the video you can see a detailed video tutorial in which the master in all details showed how to correctly disassemble dust and install a new piston on it. You can also see on the video how to clean the saw during the repair.

Result

We have studied the main causes and malfunctions of the Stihl MS 180 chainsaw, requiring CPG replacement. But, as a rule, in each case, the reasons may intersect, and for proper repairs, an integrated approach to solving the problem is required. Installation of a new piston on a pole does not always mean a solution to the problem. Be sure to eliminate the cause of the malfunction, and the tool will last a long time without problems and the need to repair.

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