Is it possible to saw an acrylic bathtub?

Acrylic bathtub can be sawed

Eugenia PodomarevaI make repairs in the bathroom. Bought an acrylic bathtub. It is plastic! It’s easy to saw off. Or break down the walls and level them again. You can’t cut the basin. When filled with water, it will deform it, this is a disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs. If you cut the edge, it will weaken the already weak structure. Acrylic, of course, can be cut with a knife. But, after all, the edges of the tub are bent down, and when you cut it I would try to change the tub to a smaller size, or redo the wall in the bathroom. And so will not be a marketable appearance, some OH. Skillful

Yaroslav ApraksinThe acrylic bathtub is here. A small scratch on the front side. How can you camouflage the lamination? there is nothing to change. Acrylic is perfectly polished, if the scratch is small take a dishwashing sponge and scratch with a scratch-resistant side and then use toothpaste on the sponge try liquid plastic. Acrylic seems to dissolve in dichloroethane. Acrylate a bit of acrylic from somewhere below, fill it with chloroethane to cover the shavings, let it stand until the acrylic dissolves to the consistency of honey. You use a razor blade as a spatula

Kirill BudrinWho has experience in coating bath enamel?? Will it be as good as new?? My sister enameled it, it’s as good as new, it’s nice and cheap, I’m going to do the same myself. It’s going to be hard, but there’s no need to saw the legs, they used to put them on wedges, you just have to find them, bale and the tub will drop the legs by itself. It won’t be. Acrylic liner is better, they have a longer service life. It looks better than the enamel coating (And by the way enamel can peel off in a year or two)

Elena LapinaMaybe someone has experience. Use an angle grinder to cut a groove under the edge of the tub. Then a special sealant must be glued to this place. And it will not be possible to carefully remove one row of tiles, the one that prevents the bathtub to stand in its original place? Always glad to see such customers do not understand what they need, and then look for someone to blame, you hired a tiler to put the tiles, the quality of laying claims are there? If not, then there’s no need to grumble, the plumber is also not involved, because he was called

Christina LohotskayaWhat can be sawed acrylic bathtub? It is necessary to adjust to the size of 20 mm extra). I think a simple angle grinder will do the job. With a diamond disc

Natalia KukinaI bought a bathtub, it doesn’t fit in 3 cm, can it be cut? I specifically bought a larger size and I’m very pleased it was built into the wall but the bath has more space. I had the same thing, I screwed the wall and everything is fine, the same is not moving, but I have a cast-iron Better to change the Better in the wall to make a slot Cut it can not, the enamel will fly off. You can make notches in the wall and embed it Cast iron only weld acrylic angle grinder saw

Igor ArmeyevPlease advise Here’s how you can spend money if you have not decided in general, what should turn out in the end? First you should have consulted with consultants in a furniture store, which can offer a variety of suitable options. Should, And how does your question relates to the section Technology for the home Vinyl wallpaper is a two-layer. The bottom layer is fabric or paper, and the top layer consists of polyvinyl, on which the pattern or embossing. Such wallpaper is very durable. At

Yaroslav ChernavinHow to shorten, trim acrylic bathtub rim?? Yes, our craftsmen are setting themselves strange tasks Acrylic bath can be sawed with an ordinary hacksaw blade on metal Only after the cut should be cleaned and polished Only then can maintain the aesthetic appearance will be. With a string, or a wood burner

Raisa TretyakovaHow and what to saw a cast-iron bathtub (not pull out? It is possible to cut it with an angle grinder to cut it is possible not to the end- cast iron is pricked-if to hit on a bathtub with a sledgehammer can and an angle grinder is not required It is realistic only to split (the truth will be a lot of noise) Good luck! Break down. Heh. It’s not so easy with a sledgehammer either. I witnessed a plumber breaking a long time a riveted cast-iron corner in the toilet with a hammer. Didn’t want to give in, didn’t want to get stabbed. And on the look hit and in the powder. And how to break the bathtub?

How to shorten it correctly?

If you do decide to remove a few centimeters from your bathtub, it is worth reading the instructions below:

  • Carefully take all the measurements and decide exactly how much to cut.This is what the saying “Measure twice, cut once” is all about.
  • Cover the surface at the future cut with masking tape. It will prevent cracks and chips from appearing, and it’s easier to use to mark.
  • Carefully and slowly mark the future cut. Draw the cutting line with a felt tip pen or marker.

Can you trim it to length??

The bathtub categorically should not be sawed to length. You’re sure to severely compromise the rigidity of the structure and the font is sure to break over time. It is better to get out of this situation in another way: all the same to do chinks.

Can I cut the acrylic bathtub?

Leo CarpenterA acrylic bathtub can be cut? It is not allowed to cut the stiffeners, when filling the tub from the load may burst, the decorative screen can be cut. How do you cut a bathtub before installing it? We know how to cut it, it’s okay if you want to, then use a reinforcing bar or put up a tool when installing it Saw how a tiler cut the cast iron one, but the acrylic one as well (but here’s a problem, cast iron is cast iron, and acrylics are fixed by the stiffeners)

possible, acrylic, bathtub

Konstantin DonkovWhat must be processed by GPB in the bathroom before laying tiles?? You can also read about other types of finishings: SP 55-101-2000 CONSTRUCTION AND DESIGN RULES FOR ENVIRONMENTAL CONSTRUCTIONS WITH THE APPLICATION OF FIREBONT SHEETS 6.8 Finishing surfaces of partitions and suspended ceilings made of plasterboard Primer. deep penetration There is a hydromastic blue, thick, and on joints and seams is put such a tape of thin cloth and also blotted. Even without tile water did not pass on the floor and walls

Antonina YudinaHow to properly fill the gap between the bathroom and the wall? If forever. then do something like a canopy, with a small hole sells such plastic tape at the edge of the bathroom glued masking tape to prevent sticking foam mounting (read more ” hole” moisten “squirt” (PRAISE, GOD Fill it with styrofoam dries up. Dry?Trim it flush. On top of putty, On sale there are ceramic borders, usually white color they can be put on liquid nails, it is for a long time. If you don’t take too much trouble, sanitary sealant will work for a year, then fungus will start to appear.

Vladimir ZhelezovTo tell me how to shorten, trim acrylic bathtub rim? Yes, our masters set themselves strange tasks Acrylic bath can be sawed with an ordinary hacksaw blade on metal Only after the cut should be cleaned and polished Only then can you keep an aesthetic appearance will be. With a string or a wood burner

Victoria VyrupaevaDoing repairs in the bathroom. Bought acrylic bathtub. She’s plastic! easily sawn off. Well, or the walls to tear down and level again. Absolutely agree with Semyon Mikhailovich Acrylic, of course, can be cut with a knife. But, after all, the edges of the bathtub is bent down, and when you cut it I would try to change the bathtub to a smaller size, or the wall in the bathroom remade. But it’s not going to look “marketable,” some “OH. Skillful hands” will get.

Kirill NeklyudovHow to restore a cast iron bathtub? There are three ways to repair it now. 1-Emaline.: The disadvantages are the most short-lived. The quality of work depends on the skill and integrity of the master. The warranty is usually one year. Although I’m a couple of months ago, I repaired the bath With a copper sledgehammer Better buy a new one! The method of replacement Nitra (you can even white). enough for a week, and then buy an acrylic insert and yo ue I have mine usual enamel roller painted. lasted more than a year. And the special imported enamel lasted a month(

Lyudmila KapustinaMy bathroom tub 170 just barely fits in two places on the wall tiles prevent kpit less bathtub? Maybe grooves to make on the tiles I would angle grinder groove made and then alabaster plastered and painted the seam, and the second side of silicone. Or chip the tiles, if it is tight. It’s better to buy not less bathtub, but to buy a bigger house. I cut the edge of the bathtub a little. Don’t touch the bathtub, it’s better to give the wall a bit of space. We also did not fit a sink next to the cabin, so they made a recess in the wall, very well turned out. Estimate the thickness of the wall (see how much does not fit Just exactly.

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Oleg TrifonovBought a bathtub, it doesn’t fit by 3 cm, can it be cut I specifically bought a larger size and am very pleased with it Vmutilated it into the wall but the bath has more space. How can you answer if you do not write what bath, kanesh you can cut) Of course, break not build! Use an angle grinder to trim! Or you have to cut through the wall! You can cut it, I cut it with an angle grinder, it’s just as new as it was. What year is the cost? Call me. I’ll come and do it.

Alla Chichagova Can you cut the corner of an acrylic bathtub at 4 cm? In a semicircle without loss of rigidity of the bathtub and what is better to cut? Wouldn’t it be easier to cut into the wall? This is just one of the solutions. And the rigidity is not damaged and the procedure is quick and painless. Carefully cut through the wall or tile on 3 cm with a bolero and that’s it.Anyway, the corner of the bathtub will be fixed by On both sides neatly with a corner grinder. Svetik, leave the tub alone Mock the wall

How to Paint a Bath

Elena LebedevaHow to properly lay tiles on the wall in the bathroom and what is needed for this? To avoid buying unnecessary tiles, its consumption is determined as follows: measure the area of facing and divide it by the area of one tile. You get the number of pieces, but it must be increased by 10 percent. You will need: a hammer, pliers, trowel, cord, level.! ps Hands should grow out of the right place, not the first encountered

Alla TolmachevaWho knows the recipe for homemade paper. please share. Saw it in the program and wanted to do myself, but no retse Recipe 1 As the basis for taking any paper tissues, toilet paper, egg trays, etc. The paper should be crushed into small, fine pieces and soak, and then scroll through a meat grinder (or in a blender All this paper mass is placed in a container and diluted Recipe 3 It is suggested to make your own paper using tissues (including multi-colored, you can add gouache for the desired coloring). stuffing (it can be feathers, needles, seeds, pieces of plants, scraps of thread,

Screens Fibreboard

They are made of wood board with a film coating.

  • Easy to clean-all dirt can be easily washed away.
  • Variety of designs: you can pick up not only the front, but also the end version, which is indispensable in situations where the bowl of the bath is open on both sides, and not set flush between the walls. Both sides are firmly fixed to the frame and perfectly perform their functions.
  • Reasonable price.

Their disadvantages include only standard sizes, which in some cases may not match the dimensions of your bathroom.

Let’s put it on the bricks

Installation on the bricks requires accuracy and precision. you need to set the support exactly to the sides of the bath was in the horizontal plane.

Put usually on two or three rows of bricks laid on the bed (on the wide part). The number of bricks depends on the location of the sewer outlet. Put a thin layer of mortar between the bricks. The bathtub is placed on the bricks, check the horizontality of the sides, if necessary, adjust by changing the thickness of the mortar between the bricks (on the upper, do not impose anything yet).

We expose the bricks, screw the corner

After alignment, we mark on the wall at what level the sides are. At this mark, a corner that will support the side of the bathtub is fixed. Corner is better to take aluminum, width of the shelf. 3 cm, thickness. 2-3 mm.

To give the base an aesthetic appearance, you can wrap them with plaster mesh, plaster. In fact, stucco also reduces the hygroscopicity of red bricks, prolonging the life of the support. So this step is undesirable to skip.

Plastering the brick base for the acrylic bathtub

After bending the mesh, put a solid layer of cement-sand mortar on top of the bricks. Apply a solid layer of sanitary silicone on the corner, and then install the bathtub. It moves to the wall evenly, so the gaps between the rim and the wall were flat.

We pick up the extruded silicone, making a nice joint. Trowel it with a teaspoon. If you run it without taking your hand off from edge to edge, you get an even and smooth seam. Then we remove the squeezed out mortar. Silicone removed earlier. it “sets” faster. The mortar must be picked up no later than 20-30 minutes after laying, so do not delay either.

This is what an acrylic bathtub on bricks looks like from below

If the silicone was not enough and it did not come out. no big deal. We form a seam by filling the gap at the top with silicone. This completes the installation of acrylic bathtub on the bricks. Next. the connection of the siphon and finishing, and this is not really to this topic.

There are two technologies of producing acrylic bathtubs. The first technology. molding from heated sheets of sanitary acrylic in a special mold. These liners are called molded liners. The second technology. composite (combined) inserts. The base is made of ABS plastic, after which the inner surface is coated with a thin layer of acrylic.

Acrylic inlay in the bath. a quick way to update the coating

Molded inserts

Cast acrylic bathtub insert has a very smooth surface, which is easy to care for. Acrylic pores are small, dirt does not penetrate them, and what remains on the surface is easily washed away. If everything is done according to technology, such a veneer can last up to 10 years and more.

The disadvantages of molded inserts are that when molded as much as possible (bottom and corners) the walls are very thin, quickly rubbed out, sometimes break.

Cast acrylic bathtub insert is molded from a sheet of sanitary acrylic

The disadvantage. a high price, since the sanitary acrylic costs a lot, but also the equipment, which makes it expensive. It turns out that the cast insert costs about 30% of the cost of a new bath.

In order to reduce the cost can be used low-quality acrylic (not sanitary). It has larger pores and its color is not white, but with some color. grayish or pinkish. Such liners are very hard to clean and can only be washed with special compounds with a soft texture. In general, the use of such a low-quality product is very problematic.

Composite

Composite liners are made of two materials. the base is ABS plastic, over which a thin layer of acrylic is applied. Externally, they do not differ much from fully acrylic, but they cost much less. But they also last less, since the thin layer of acrylic in the most stressed areas quickly wears out. The lifetime of such liners is 5 to 6 years, even if they are of good quality.

They are worse in operation. acrylic can be scratched, and it is difficult to repair. While the poured acrylic can be polished and refinished, the composite cannot. To restore the surface complex technology is used, which does not always give a good result. Another problem is the delamination of the acrylic from the substrate. This defect appears if the manufacturing technology is not used properly. That’s why installing such an acrylic insert in the bathtub will extend its service life by several years at most.

How I became a victim of the acrylic bathtub: personal experience

As a specialist in the field of repair, I prepared for the transformation of my new apartment and took into account all the risks: the construction team of professionals performed all the work according to the standards and used quality materials.

No claims to the builders, as there are no questions and to the quality of materials: my parquet six months later was flooded with boiling water from the apartment above, but no planks were not spoiled and the floors did not go “in waves”. high-quality parquet, its installation was carried out by professionals.

But there was one unpleasant surprise waiting for me, which I myself bought and brought to the apartment. it was an acrylic bathtub.

In my old apartment I have a good steel bath, but in the new bath I decided to install acrylic, because it is lighter and more comfortable in it. it is warm, while the metal bath is cold and it quickly cools the water. Also, I was convinced of the correctness of the choice, because the manufacturer has guaranteed me a life span of 30 years.

The bathtub cost me a small amount of money. a little over six thousand (I was given a good discount). The builders did the installation, sealed the gaps between the tub and porcelain stoneware. the repair of the entire bathroom was complete, which pleased me.

Knowing that acrylic is a special material, I looked for a special cleaners for the bath without alkali, so as not to spoil the coating, not to burn it with chemicals during cleaning. But after six months, the remedies stopped working: it became more difficult to clean the bathtub. I didn’t walk in it with my shoes on, I didn’t cook soup in it, but dirty stains were appearing and it was getting more and more difficult to clean them up. In this bathtub I took only a shower and occasionally washed the cat.

When 8 months had passed since installing the tub, I began to notice other changes: the bottom of the tub had sagged a bit and there were permanent gray spots. After a year, the bottom of the tub had sagged even more, water was collecting there, which could not overcome the laws of physics and rise up to the drain. The stains were getting a more contrasting hue, and I stopped calling guests because they might notice the dirty bathtub and think I was sloppy. I desperately scrubbed away the gray streaks, but in vain.

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After a couple of months I began to notice that the grout on the porcelain floor is wet, and on it itself there are traces of water.

But it all became apparent last week: where the stains had been, cracks had formed, and the acrylic tub had become a “leaky trough”. So I went to the nearest construction hypermarket.

At the store I went straight to the metal tubs: they are made of steel and cast iron. I abandoned the idea of buying a cast-iron bathtub because of its heavy weight, and considering that the size of my bath must have a length of not less than 170 cm, cast-iron tub could not pass through the narrow corridors of the front room with the help of two porters. in such circumstances, to raise it to my floor, would need four people (freight elevator in the house is not).

I decided to choose a bathtub made of steel. I had a long time to compare the parameters and weight of the product. I even “tried on” the samples to get a feel for how comfortable the tub was.

Among the consultants I found a necessary specialist in the store. he explained me everything and helped me to choose a reliable steel bathtub, and explained the possible cause of the cracks in my acrylic bathtub by a breach of technology in its production. in other words, it turned out to be a factory defect.

The new steel bathtub cost only 5 400, I also bought the feet. 500 for two pairs. The day after delivery, my builders came to replace the tub. What I saw under the tub is impossible to describe in literary language, so I’m just showing a picture.

How to properly shorten?

If you do decide to remove a few inches from your tub, it’s worth reading the instructions below:

  • Carefully take all measurements and decide exactly how much to cut.The proverb “Measure twice, cut once” is about this very thing.
  • Cover the future cutting area with masking tape. It will not allow cracks and chips to appear, and it is more convenient to use it for marking.
  • Carefully and slowly mark the future cut. Draw the cutting line with a felt tip pen or marker.

Is it possible to trim to length?

The bathtub categorically can not be sawed to length. You will definitely severely damage the rigidity of the construction, and the font will definitely break with time. The best way out of this situation is another way: you can still make a gutter.

Can the acrylic bathtub be sawn?

After laying tiles on the walls the bathtub doesn’t fit into the bathroom up to its full length. Can the bathtub be undercut on one side with an angle grinder by about 1-2 cm?? The enamel won’t crack? I’m afraid there will be chips, but at the junction will still be put a plastic corner for the bath.And whether it’s possible to saw cast iron with an angle grinder, if so, what better discs?

You can cut cast iron with a regular metal blade or a stone blade. I didn’t cut the new bathtub, although it was my idea. I used to cut the old one, there was a lot of black dust. You will be cutting the bathtub, cover it with scotch tape, sparks burn and remain on the enamel in the form of black dots. I wouldn’t cut it from both sides, I’d cut a bigger one. In the legs of the drain overflow, when I had to embed, then tormented, did not fit.

I sawed an imported cast iron bathtub with an ordinary metal disk. Nothing complicated. No cracking of the enamel. There are small chips around the cut. Also sawed on one side across from the drain. And if you don’t have any experience with a cut-off machine, I wouldn’t recommend it. If the bathtub is 1cm longer, then saw 1cm longer.5-2 cm. It’s easier to put it on. And the main thing is to cover well.

I do not recommend sawing, it only spoils the bathtub. Tiles are easier to cut. In a pinch, you could glue a new one on later if you spoil it. In a corner in the wall, you can drill out. Push the bathtub into the gutter at an angle with one end and push it into the wall. It’s easy!

Ten years ago sawed off both wings of the bathtub, and under the overflow, below the level of the bath, chiseled chink in the wall (put the bathtub 170cm in 160-centimeter bathtub). It’s fine even now. Bathtub domestic. Stands without feet, due to deepening in the end walls.

Remove the tiles better. Then buy 3-4 pieces, I think 200-300 will cost. And if you do not have exactly the same, buy decorative (with a pattern) in tone. Kill tile adhesive, put the bathtub, cut it off and glue the tiles on top of the tub, under the tub is not necessary. And sawing, spoil the bathtub, I would not advise it.

I did so. I cut off about a centimeter and a half on one side. It turned out great. No chips. First you cut only the enamel, so that it was a little wider than the cut, otherwise there will be chips. Then I sawed with an angle grinder in small pieces, about ten centimeters each, deflecting the disc to the side so as not to damage the enamel with the back stroke of the disc. The whole job takes about twenty minutes.

Can I Saw Acrylic Bathtub

When renovating a bathroom, many people are faced with the question: what to do with the old tub? No one wants to have to worry about removing a heavy cast iron tank.

Modern technology makes it easy to renew without dirt and dust, using acrylic inserts. (rearrange the sentence by breaking it into two separate ones).

Advantages and disadvantages of an acrylic tub

The sanitary acrylic used to make this product is a high-tech material. The inserts in it have:

possible, acrylic, bathtub

Another big plus: bacteria do not breed on the surface of acrylic. This is a very important quality of sanitary products.

Improper handling of this material will damage the surface; it is very easy to scratch or melt; therefore, care of the product requires the following rules:

  • Do not use abrasive or aggressive cleaners;
  • Use only a soft sponge on all sides;
  • Avoid contact with dyeing products and chemicals such as hair dye.

Important addition! To determine whether to put an acrylic insert in the bathtub, you should consult with a good specialist. This is because these products are not available for all types of packaging.

Why and how to drill, saw and process acrylic bathtubs

Initially there are no holes in the eyelet for the drain and overflow of water. Naturally, they must be made, or rather drilled.

The reason for such action is a mismatch between the size of the bowl and the location for the intended installation. It turns out during the installation of the bath, if the calculations have not taken into account all the factors.

When it comes to cast iron or enameled steel bowl, there is no question of trimming: it can not be done at home. Acrylic is soft enough, and when installing inserts, for example, it is allowed to saw and drill holes in it.

In deciding the issue, you need to consider several factors. The first is the technology of manufacture.

  • The bathtub of ABS-plastic. extruded polymer. The material is cheaper than pure acrylic, but less resistant to wear and not too strong. The outer layer of acrylic is very thin here. no more than 2 mm. The cost of the product is low. Trimming does not justify itself. In the end it will be cheaper to buy a new bath with different dimensions and sell the unsuitable one.
  • The product of cast acrylic is much stronger. The outer layer of acrylic reaches 6-8 mm, such a model serves up to 15 years. The cost of it is much higher. This makes a custom fit much more attractive.

The second factor is the placement of the stiffeners. This can be clarified from the dealer or in the passport of the product. The bath. multi-layer construction, its rigidity provides reinforcing glass fiber on the outer side. And this power “frame” is formed based on the shape of the product. The more complicated it is, the more stiffeners are in the construction. If at least one has to be removed during sawing, during installation its absence is compensated by installing an aluminum corner, an additional rib on the mounting frame.

Is it possible to drill, cut or saw an acrylic bathtub?

During the repair of the bathroom, many are faced with the question: what to do with the old bathtub? No one wants to take the trouble to dismantle a heavy cast-iron container.

Modern technology allows you to simply upgrade it without unnecessary dirt and dust, with the help of an acrylic insert. (Rebuild the sentence by breaking it into two separate ones.).

Restoring cracks in the acrylic surface

The most common cause of cracks in the acrylic bathtub is the accidental fall of a heavy object. If this trouble has happened to you too, it’s time to buy a repair kit or restoring tape. The crack refers to a serious defect, so with the restoration of it will have to tinker longer than with the removal of scratches. Eliminate the crack on the acrylic as follows:

Treat the surface with two types of sandpaper in the same manner as is done in restoring scratches.

At the ends of the crack carefully drill small holes with a diameter of 1 mm, as if artificially enlarging the crack. This is necessary in order to prevent further growth of the crack, which without this simple action is guaranteed even with gentle use.

Wash the area to be restored, removing from the acrylic surface the hard particles and dust left by drilling, then the tub should be well dried.

Degrease the working area with alcohol or another solution of identical action.

Apply the acrylic bathtub repair kit to the crack. It consists of two components which are combined just before application. If the crack is deep, it is often necessary to apply the acrylic in several passes. After each layer is applied, let it cure, pausing 3-4 hours in the restoration work.

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After fully sealing the crack, the tub should be allowed to dry for a few hours. While the acrylic applied to the crack is drying, you can not use the bath: it is forbidden to pour water into the bowl, press on the repaired surface, checking the degree of drying.

After a final drying of the new acrylic coating, you only need to carefully process the place of the crack with a fine grain sandpaper and polish the restored area.

If you have chosen to use tape, use it in the same way as with the scratched surface. But note that with the restorative tape you can seal only not very long and not too deep cracks. After installing the tape patch, you need a few hours do not use the bathroom at all, protecting the new coating from contact with moisture.

Self-installation of acrylic corner on the bathtub

There are many options for the corner of the bathtub is. Bendable corner on adhesive basis (tape), plastic corner with rubberized or silicone edges, furniture corner, plastic corner, plastic corner for tiles, aluminum corner, sealant, cement grout for joints, ceramic curb. All of these options have fallen into oblivion, as they have negative. deformation, cloudy appearance, detachment from the surface of the wall or bathtub rim, swell, cracked, prone to mold formation. Let’s not spend too much time on this, let’s get down to business.

They have been replaced by a new innovative top product acrylic corner, available to everyone.

Acrylic corner installed on a radius bathtub.

Acrylic corner installed on an even bathtub.

Acrylic corner of non-standard sizes, made individually according to the size of the customer.

Acrylic corner is a new product, which in its characteristics and properties has surpassed all previous options. You can see all the specifications here. Examples of what not to do, you can see here.

  • 1. Dirt, dust and grease must be removed from the bathtub and the mating wall (as the case may be). Use a bathtub cleaner and a brush and cloth.

The surface of the walls and bathtub rim is thoroughly cleaned and dried.

It is better to dry the walls and bathtub rim with a construction hair dryer. quickly and efficiently.

And degrease the surface of the walls and bathtub rim better with a brush. It is better to use a special degreaser, which is suitable for all types of bathtubs, so as not to damage the surface of tiles and bathtubs, because such means as white spirit and solvent can leave stains. Then wipe everything with a paper towel and dry with a hair dryer.

The great bath debate: steel versus acrylic

Degreasing the surface should be done with a special agent so as not to damage the surface of the tub or tiles.

  • 3. The wall and the edge of the bathtub are prepared, we fill the tub with water, it is necessary so that the tub stood firmly and motionless, especially it concerns acrylic and steel bathtubs. Since these baths are movable, when filled with water (increased load), they move away from the walls a little, the sealant must dry in this position, and subsequently there will be no peeling.

Drying the surface from moisture, the surface must be dry and clean, for better adhesion of the sealant.

  • 4. Measure the distance where the acrylic corner will be installed. first the long side, then the short side, then the next. Depending on the situation. Each option is different, some people want to aesthetically cover two sides, three or four.

Important point. Acrylic corners of different widths and overlaps can be joined together by a corner joint, and it turns out as one unit.

Acrylic corner and overlay look like one piece.

Inside corner joins by the corner cut at 45 degrees, and you get a single unit. Then using a construction angle grinder we measure an angle of 45 degrees and saw off a part of the angle with a hacksaw for metal. Also make the next corner, and if necessary, the next. There are cases when the bath is not straight or radiused, in which case you can give the acrylic corner the desired shape (bend, curve), there is a technology that allows to do this, but with this it is better to consult a specialist, you can here.

Marking an acrylic angle with a construction angle under 45 degrees, sawing with a hacksaw on metal.

Highlight. It is necessary to use a flat, smooth metal blade with fine teeth. Then the cut will be smooth, without jagged edges and chips.

Aluminum corner installed on the mounting tape (double-sided adhesive tape) on the wall. Used as a support (stop) for the acrylic corner or overlay while the sealant cures.

Important point. If the distance between the bathtub and the wall is large, then an aluminum corner must be fixed to the wall with mounting tape (double-sided adhesive tape) as a support for the acrylic corner or overlay. It will temporarily hold an acrylic corner or overlay until the sealant dries.

  • 5. We put the workpieces on the tub and check that the joint in the corners is clear. Without gaps and smooth. Sometimes there are cases. that the walls are not quite even (90 degrees) and the inner corner does not join, you get a gap or loose acrylic corners, in this case, you need to grind the right places. It is best to use a diamond file (for tiles) it has a coarser abrasive on one side and finer on the other. Acrylic is a soft material and can be easily sanded, or you can abrasive (emery). Append the blanks on the bath and check the adjacency again, if all is fine no gaps, we do mark where to saw off the edges (short sides), and cut off unnecessary pieces, grind the ends. After checking the surface adjacency of the angle to the bath and wall, the angle should touch both the bath and the wall (without blockages). If that happens I recommend to make a tab, from silicone or rubber (it is possible from spatulas) we do a cut on rounding of a curb and on a plane of the bath and we put in a rounding between a bathtub and a wall. The end cap will be used as a support for the acrylic corner. and it won’t sink in. But it will lie flat on the plane of the bath and the wall.

Important moment. Many bathtubs have a slightly rounded rim, especially of cast-iron ones, that’s why it is better to cut the corner not along the edge of the tub but along the rim where the rounding begins. It’s more aesthetically pleasing.

Important moment. Be sure to remove the protective film from the inside of the rim of the bath (which will be in contact with the wall), otherwise later in the joint filled with sealant will leak. Because the film will separate from the bathtub. This is one of the most frequent installation mistakes. Protective film is mostly used on acrylic bathtubs.

The protective film must be removed.

possible, acrylic, bathtub

It is necessary to remove the protective film.

The gap between the bathtub and the wall should be filled only with a PROFESSIONAL sanitary sealant of white color.

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Sealant is applied to the inner side of the acrylic corner as a solid layer, evenly without interruption.

Carefully press the acrylic corner to the wall and bath tub, remove excess silicone.

We put a sealant on the back sides of acrylic corner from both sides as a continuous layer. Press the corner to the bathtub and the wall simultaneously, gradually moving along the entire perimeter. Between the inner corner we further apply sealant and join the corners with each other. Let’s apply the same on the next corner and on the next one. Remove excess silicone. It is necessary to do it quickly, accurately, as the sealant sets quickly.

Important moment. To quickly and smoothly form seams and remove the excess silicone must be prepared in advance soapy water (you can use any chemist. liquid soap, dishwashing detergent, shampoo), a spray gun (a squeezer for ironing or flowers), a stick (narrow) from under the coffee, a trowel medium for grouting tile seams (rubber or silicone) and narrow pre-cut corners on it (for convenience), prepare toilet paper (when the excess sealant will be cleaned paper is useful to wipe trowel and wand).

Spray gun with soapy water, coffee tongs (to form seams), spatulas.

Spray a soapy solution around the perimeter of the corner and remove the excess.

  • 7. Acrylic corners installed. The excess sealant came out on both sides (the bathtub rim and the wall, between the corners of the inside corners) Spray a soap solution with a spray gun around the perimeter of the corner and remove with a coffee bean stick. Remove insignificant residuals with spatulas.

Important moment. when the excess sealant is removed, so you do not waste time, you can dip the excess into the bowl of the bathtub. It remains on the surface in the water and does not stick to the edge of the bathtub. And after installation, remove.

Acrylic corner on a cast-iron bathtub with a curved rim.

Acrylic corner on a cast-iron bathtub with a curved edge.

Acrylic overlay overlapping the gap more than 60 mm.

Bend on the bathtub. Acrylic corner piece will precisely follow the shape of the bathtub, no gaps and clearances.

Sealing with the mind, acrylic corner and overlay no puddles on the floor and mold.

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