Receiver for the car compressor with his hands

How to choose the best air tank parameters

Like any technical product, a receiver has a number of technical parameters. Among them are:

  • Volume, l.
  • Humidity.
  • Operating parameters, e.g., limits for humidity, temperature.
  • Characteristics of the place of installation of the compressor unit. It must be installed away from heat sources, fire and explosive substances. Avoid the presence of foreign bodies in the air, for example in the work area.

Safety rules state that it is inadmissible to use receivers that have not been properly tested, on the surface of which there are mechanical damages in the form of cracks, traces of corrosion action.

Selection of the receiver is carried out on the basis of a fairly simple calculation:

  • Determine the required air mixture flow rate, the duration of the flow rate, the operating pressure limits.
  • Using special calculation tables, they are available both in hard copy and as online appendices. For example, for capacity of 0.1 cubic meter per minute, the duration of the limit load of 5 minutes and within the head of 3/4 (min/max), the volume of the receiver is about 500 liters.

This method of calculation is oriented on the time it takes to completely empty the vessel.

There is another method, based on the ratio of the volume of the vessel and the capacity of the air compressor. The following ratios are used in practice:

there are also experimental dependencies, for example, the volume of the receiver can not be less than the amount of air that the compressor can generate for 8 seconds of work. For example, the flow rate is 400 liters per minute, respectively, the volume of poppy must be at least 53 liters.

Making an air compressor with their own hands

Air compressor. a device that sprays paint. It is usually used in workshops and garages for painting cars or pumping up the wheels. You can buy such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, the equipment made by your own hands can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, the financial costs of self-made will be cheaper.

Community Garage Equipment and Tools Blog An extra receiver from a gas cylinder

Good afternoon) Option extra receiver for the compressor, quickly and without hassle)) www.drive2.ru/b/534244179794986642/

When painting cars critically lacked air tank at 24l compressor, the amount of air was not enough for large areas such as hoods and roof. The solution was found rather simple, an extra receiver from a gas bottle of 50l)) Faucet on the cylinder was dismantled and got all necessary connections))) Quick disconnects for the hose 270r. at a discount))

On the costs: Compressor Fubag 24l. available Cylinder. free Hose spiral 10 m. 347 p. Pipe barrel 3/4. 11 p. 3/4 socket. 24 p. Socket adapter 3/4 to 1/2. 67 p. Adapter nipple 1/2 to 1/4. 2 pcs 43 р. Ball valve 1/2. 88 rubles. A set of fittings quickly. 270 p. TOTAL: 893 p.

Air compressor from parts of a refrigerator and a fire extinguisher

This unit works practically silently. Consider the scheme of the future construction and make a list of necessary parts.

1 tube for filling oil; 2 starting relay; 3 compressor; 4 copper tubes; 5 hoses; 6 diesel filter; 7 gasoline filter; 8 air inlet; 9 pressure switch; 10 cross; 11 safety valve; 12 tee; 13 receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 pressure reducer with a manometer; 15 moisture trap; 16 socket

Necessary details, materials and tools

As the main elements are taken: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a cylinder of a fire extinguisher, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then the compressor from the dead refrigerator can be sought in repair shops or metal recycling points. Fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or involve in the search for acquaintances, whose work may have decommissioned OHP, OVP, OU for 10 liters. The cylinder of the fire extinguisher must be safely emptied.

  • pressure gauge (as for pump, water heater);
  • diesel filter;
  • Filter for gasoline motor;
  • Pressure switch;
  • electric toggle switch;
  • pressure regulator (reducer) with a manometer;
  • reinforced hose;
  • Water elbows, tees, adapters, connectors, clamps, hardware;
  • materials for making a metal or wooden frame furniture wheels;
  • safety valve (to release excess pressure);
  • self-locking wall inlet (for connection to an airbrush, for example).

In addition, you will need tools: hacksaw, wrench, syringe, as well as FUM tape, rust remover, synthetic motor oil, paint or enamel for metal.

Assembly steps

Before you begin assembly, you must prepare the compressor motor and fire extinguisher cylinder.

Preparing the Compressor Motor

There are three tubes coming out of the motor-compressor, two of which are open (air inlet and outlet), and the third, with a sealed end for the oil change. To find an air inlet and outlet, it is necessary to supply electric current to the compressor and to put corresponding marks on tubes.

Next you need to carefully saw or cut off the sealed end, making sure that the copper filings do not get into the tube. Next, drain the oil inside and fill in with engine oil, synthetic or semi-synthetic, using a syringe. The tube can be sealed by finding a screw of suitable diameter, which should be wrapped with FUM tape and screwed into the hole. Sealant can be applied over the joint. If necessary, paint the surface with enamel.

Prepare the oil receiver

With an empty extinguisher cylinder you need to remove the shutoff and start valve (STV). Clean the outside of the container of rust and dirt, and inside pour and hold the rust preventer for as long as indicated on the label of the product. We give to dry, and screw on a cover with aperture from tightening. In the hole screw the adapter (if necessary) and mount the cross.

On the upper pipe mount pressure switch, on one side screw a T-piece and connect the manometer, on the other side mount a safety valve or valve to bleed air manually (variant). Where required, use adapters. If necessary paint cylinder.

Assembly of the circuit

On the assembled frame (e.g. a solid board on wheels or a structure made of strong corners, pipes) mount the cylinder, and on it or next to the motor-compressor, laying a rubber gasket. Connect the gasoline filter first and then the diesel filter to the inlet air pipe of the compressor. It is necessary to do so if the compressor is intended for airbrush work to exclude the slightest air contamination. And as the filter for diesel is thinner, it is mounted after the petrol filter. If the copper tubes have lost their shape during disassembly, it is necessary to flatten them.

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Electrical connection is made with tumbler, pressure switch and starter relay. Protect all connections with electrical tape or heat shrink. It is important to install the starting relay in the correct position by an arrow on its cover, otherwise the device will not work properly.

1 toggle switch; 2 pressure switch; 3 compressor starting relay; 4 relay position arrow; 5 relay connection to compressor windings; 6 compressor

Connect the outlet air pipe from the compressor through the adapter to the air inlet of the receiver. After the manometer mount the reducer with remote moisture trap, and behind it a hose with a self-locking wall inlet.

The end result with due care works well and looks aesthetically pleasing.

Homemade air compressor from an automobile engine

For this you will need the following set of materials:

Preparatory work

In the role of the power unit can be any electric motor, but such that the pressure switch gives the necessary results. It is best to give the blower a thorough cleaning with an anti-corrosion agent before use. If any filter is clogged, replace it. It is also useful to change the oil.

The blower has three outlets for the tubes:

You can tell where the outlet and where the air supply are by briefly turning on the engine. One tube must be sealed. for oil changes. When opening it, make sure that no sawdust gets inside. We need an oil separator so that some of the oil can be sucked into the air currents produced by the turbo blower. The filter should be screwed onto the air supply pipe, and clamps are better for fixing.

As for the receiver, its role can be cylinder. from a fire extinguisher or gas. The main thing is that it must be able to withstand high pressure.

Creating a compressor with a receiver

Such a self-made compressor for car painting is more complicated than the above-mentioned. It is considered semi-professional. Consequently, in order to make this device airbrush for cars with their own hands, you will need a larger range of tools and source materials:

  • pressure gauge;
  • pressure switch;
  • gearbox with oil separator;
  • crosshead and adapters;
  • nipple;
  • coupling;
  • oil filter and moisture separator;
  • tube;
  • receiver;
  • clamps from the car;
  • furniture wheels;
  • nipple, nuts, washers, screws and studs;
  • toggle switch;
  • car oil;
  • fuel filter and oil and petrol hose;
  • plug and cord;
  • refrigerator compressor;
  • Plywood panels (particle board);
  • “Epoxyline;
  • paint;
  • sealant, foaming tape;
  • rust converter.

Obtain such a large number of devices separately, of course, it is difficult. Therefore, it is advisable to find an old refrigerator. it will serve as source of some parts for the compressor. So, you can use a cylinder with a built-in. However, first it is necessary to make cosmetic repairs, that is, to clean from dirt, as well as rust, which is present on many elements of old refrigerators.

It is desirable to treat the cylinder with a rust converter to avoid subsequent oxidation of this part.

Besides, it is necessary to take into account that for the period of exploitation of the refrigerator, probably, the compressor has lost its sealing, what has led to the change of conditions of its functioning. Therefore it is necessary to replace the original oil with the analogue for the automobile, because the latter endures considerably tougher working conditions.

Synthetic motor oil for cars is suitable. To change the oil is intended in most cases sealed tube on the side of the device. First saw it with a file and then break it off. Measures must be taken to prevent fragments of material from entering the tube. Car oil is filled in with a syringe in a pre-calculated volume. After that the tube is plugged with a screw of appropriate diameter with a rubber gasket to ensure tightness.

As the receiver can be used, for example, the case from a fire extinguisher OP-1 volume of 10 liters, pre-sawed from his handle. Due to the fact that the refrigerator compressor is characterized by abundant evaporation of oil, an oil and moisture separator filter should be installed at the inlet to the receiver, which will prevent foreign liquids such as water or oil from getting into the paint.

The next step is to drill a hole for the adapter and fasten it. The easiest way to do it by cold welding with “Epoxylin”. Beforehand it is necessary to make repair of receiver bottom, namely to clean it from all contaminations and rust for effective “Epoxylin” interaction with a working surface and in order to avoid paint pollution in the process of further operation. Cleaning is done by grinding the bottom of the extinguisher with sandpaper in a circular motion until it has a metallic luster. After that, the adapter is fixed from the front side with a nut and left for some time (the exact terms are in the instructions) to dry “Epoxylin”.

The base for the compressor for painting the car can be created from three wooden boards or plywood 30×30. To increase the mobility of the device you can equip the base with furniture wheels.

Drill holes in the base for the pressure switch and threaded rods to secure the unit. The latter are secured with nuts and washers.

A car filter with a paper core should be placed over the inlet opening, as this will prevent contaminants from entering it.

For more convenient operation, you should equip the compressor for car painting with a pressure switch (for example, PM5 or PM5), which will shut it off when the maximum pressure value is reached and turn it on when this value decreases to a minimum. The maximum and minimum pressures can be adjusted by the relay springs. The relay has 2 contacts designed for connection to the mains. One of them should be used for its intended purpose and the other one should be connected to the compressor.

It is also desirable to equip the compressor with a general disconnect switch which allows to switch off the whole installation at once. It is installed on the gap between the mains and the pressure switch.

Next, you can paint the receiver and begin final assembly. It is necessary to screw a nut with connector on oil filter-separator. One end of reinforced, oil-resistant hose is put on the last one. The second end is put on a tube of the compressor. Connections should be clamped with clamps and threaded joints sealed with fum tape. The filter should be screwed to the bottom of the receiver and the silicone joint treated with sealant. Then screw on a cast-iron cover with a sealant pre-treated thread and put a rubber gasket under it. On the cover screw a tube with a quarter-inch thread, and on it. a cross. In order to fix it firmly on the base it must be secured with a plywood cover with a pre-drilled hole for the cover.

On the left side of the cross-arm, screw a relay, on the right. a reducer with a filter, and on top. a pressure gauge. At the end of the work connect the wires to the relay.

The last step in preparing the device for painting a car to work is its adjustment and testing. Such a compressor for painting a car is much more difficult to set up with their own hands than the above considered, but it is easier to paint and make repairs with it. over, this airbrush device can be used not only for painting, but also for other purposes, that is, it is universal.

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car ac compressor repair and how it works

Additional receiver for the compressor with their own hands

Some work that is done in the home workshop or garage requires compressed air. And it may be a situation when a domestic compressor with a task can not cope. In this case, the situation can be resolved by installing an auxiliary air receiver on the existing unit. This device can be bought in a specialized store, such as spare parts for cars. You can buy a receiver for the pneumatic system of KAMAZ, or make it your own hands.

Most of the proposed receivers are made for a particular model and have a high price. Depending on the planned size of the container for self-made, you can use either a cylinder for propane, or a fire extinguisher body.

Self-Made Compressor (60 photos and detailed manufacturing description)

Made a home-made air compressor: detailed photo report on making a compressor on the base of ZIL-130 head.

You need a compressor for your home workshop., Somewhere, that something to blow, pump up the wheels or paint any little things.

Initially, I wanted to buy a ready-made (Chinese) solution in the budget to 10 thousand p. P, but after searching for information on compressors, I realized that there all too sad. You need 15 or so money to buy this miracle equipment and then do not regret spending money.

As a result, ripe to repeat the exploit of many and contact the legend of the Soviet automobile industry called ZIL 130 In addition, in the technical college I studied automotive mechanics on trucks, just this car ZIL-130 and tractor MTZ-82 studied in full, to the bolt all three years, the entire term of study!

What can I say in favor of this compressor head good Its main advantage.It is indestructible! There are spare parts for almost everything and are not expensive. You can always find and order parts by part number. Its lubrication system is pressurized from the engine oil line, the same for the cooling system. The compressor head works all the time, as soon as the engine is running. After reaching 7.5atm, in the brake system, the head goes into idle mode and begins to pump air from one cylinder to another. The operating temperature is about 90-100C. It is for this temperature our engineers designed it. So After reading a bunch of forums and watching all the videos on YouTube, I realized that there are different opinions on these compressors. Personally, I wanted to make the simpler, the better. So it was decided to make a scoop greasing system like in everyone’s favorite legend CO-7b and a cooling system with natural circulation in the form of an expansion tankand that’s it! I searched for a used compressor head on eBay and Yuletide I finally found one for about 1500 bucks. The seller said that she, too, once worked as a garage compressor, but not for a long time The state it was just awful. But there were no other options, so I had to buy one. I finally brushed the whole thing with a brush on an angle grinder and it got better.

It was black inside, as it turned out later on it was overheated and the oil was stuck to the walls.

The condition inside, horrible I had to soak it all for days in solvent and gasoline. The rings on the pistons were all stuck. I had to pry it off with a screwdriver and hammer it outand the rings were broken in small pieces. No solvents have cracked the pistons. After the head and the plane of the cylinder was ground.

Oddly enough the cylinders were without scuffs. Even see the honing (no pictures). The pistons are at TDC with little or no play. The pistons themselves were also in pretty good condition. Crankshaft journals were free of galling, but the bearings had backlash. So new liners, bearings, gasket set, ring set, studs and a set of inlet and outlet valves were bought.of disgusting quality. The lubrication system decided to do, as I wrote above.scoops. To do this, you need to drill the block itself under the breather, then two holes in the crank and a third in the rod under the scoop itself.

In order for these scoops to work, an oil pan needs to be welded. As it turned out I didn’t take any pictures. It’s easy. Four corners on the rib and a plate welded to the bottom. At the same time there is a fitting for the pad.

The engine will be installed 3 kW 2900 rpm three-phase into a single-phase network. I decided to make a single pad, for the engine and the head. It’ll also be removable from the receiver.

Cylinder like all propane 50L with wheels.

Then of course was welded drain screw on the bottom of the cylinder to drain condensate and two nipples of half-inch pipe for pressure gauge and pressostat. Wheels changed a little on the other with wide tread)))) The third leg also with a rubber gasket. All these rubber goods help from vibration. And for the paint.

The connection to the head of the compressor made a rigid, from half-inch pipe. The check valve is a plumber’s valve with a brass core.

State of el.The engine wasn’t very good either. And besides, it’s been rebuilt. These craftsmen decided that three wires will be enough and connected the whole thing on a circuit star. So I had to open the whole thing up, look for the missing wires, wrap it all up again. Clean it of dirt, paint, varnish and only then paint.

I decided to paint the compressor head in orangeit’s the color of joy for me. At least something to paint this product.

Oil pan with drain hole is bolted to the bottom. Also made a blanking bolt with a neodymium magnet to trap metal impurities. Because after the first start and a little run-in, after taking apart the sump, I saw a lot of metal chips.

The coolant tank is made of a 150mm diameter pipe. I hooked it up tight with the american hose.

The tank for crankcase gases from the classic, as well as all homebrewers. Made the air filter myself. For those that sell for 300 rubles with foam inside, I somehow scared me. It will need the filter from Izh, Moskvich2141 and polypropylene fittings and pipes.

I cut a thread on the pipe for this plug.

Now for the rpm I decided to do a compressor with 2000 rpm on the crankshaft of the head. For this, it took a long time to find a suitable pulley for the electric motor. The pulley on the head is 218mm OD. According to the calculations of the online calculator, I needed a driving pulley with the size of 150mm. So bought a pulley from VAZ 2101-07, which stands on the crankshaft to drive the fan or pump.х.It doesn’t matter. Its dimensions are just 150mm and the inner 29mm. Since I have a 24mm seating on the motor shaft, I had to grind the bushing myself with an angle grinder and a file. Until then, looked for turners in his village but they can not find a day!

At this speed cylinder 50L pumps to 8atm for 1min 40sec.

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The oil tank with pipes from the breather valve and the crankshaft. If you need to convert to forced lubrication in the future, no problem at all. Connects to regular line place and go.

The return from the oil line through the drain hole.

The belt tensioner is super simple. Put any belt on the pulleys, pull off the engine, then let down the bar from the angle. Tighten it to the frame and then use the tension bolts to tighten the belt. After that the motor platform is already attracted.

Check valveDon’t pay attention to the two gauges. Later will be bought automatic and will be installed in place of one of the manometers.

Threaded a thermometer into the coolant tank.

Wheels and stop made of thick rubber.a la anti-vibration!

If you need to paint something with a long time and a heavy load, you can connect a hose from the water supply to this tee and forced to cool the head. I think I do not need to explain, on the fingers the tank is split on the American stands.

And the oil I bought. Smells like regular spindle oil.

Now, a little bit of the circuit diagram and try to calculate the approximate cost of compressor parts. So, we have a 3 kW motor, 2900 rpm and 11.8 amps of 220 amps in a delta connection.

This engine was in repair and masters brought out only three wires to connect to 380v. So I had to reassemble the whole thing and take out additional wires. How to do this youtubchik full of clips. Then I had to choose working and starting capacitors. Here is a little bit of a baffle. There are different online calculators and they show completely different values some have 200μf working and 400μf starting, others have 400 and as much as 800 starting. And that’s why you don’t know what to buy. Decided to do so, buy the minimum at first and if something to buy up if there is a lack of capacity. of capacitors with high capacity are really expensive. To connect to need inrush and run capacitors, time relays, magnetic starters.

Working capacitors at 120 and 100 μf. Starting capacitor at 500 μf.

And two magnetic startersone relieves the motor power, the second time relay starter.

Putting it in a box. Contactors with relays on self-tapping screws, capacitors on cable ties.

My compressor has no automatics (pressostat), so I connected it this way. Let me explain in words the supply cable from the socket goes to the pushbutton station. At that time the lamp lights up, like there is voltage (mains). After starting the pushbutton station, the voltage goes to the contactors and coil ABB magnetic starter and time relay TDM. From the ABB magnetic starter, current goes to the motor with the working capacitors and in parallel, current flows through the time relay TDM to the coil of the second (black) magnetic starter. The second MF already connects the starting capacitor (blue) and the motor is started. After a certain time (at me 2 seconds) the time relay responds and the second (black) magnetic starter disconnects. If you know electricity, it’s easy, but most people and I don’t know how to do it right away! If you want to set a different time, then open the lid of the box and twist the regulator on the time relay.

Now for the capacitors. The first start of the engine without load at idle showed that there were too many condensers. The engine heated up in a couple of minutes. That’s why I cut off one 100μF capacitor at once. Then I assembled the compressor and installed a small pulley (70mm) on the motor. Engine with compressor head ran smoothly, no humming or heating. Started the compressor at 8 atm safely. After installing a pulley with a diameter of 150mm, the engine could not even start with 0atm in the tank. As a result, I put in the second 100μf capacitor and everything worked as it should. The running time of the starting capacitor increased of course. If the network is 220v and the compressor is warmed up, it starts easily at 8 atm in the tank. If there is a line sag to 200v, it already can’t start at 8 atm. Cranks the pulleys and not enough acceleration for those 2 seconds, but closer to 5 atm in the tank starts. You can of course increase the time on the relay a little is not enough to accelerate but I’m not going to do it yet. And that’s all without the unloading valve and the pre-receiver on the intake! Photos of finished product

Now about the cost.

If you want to build a compressor on the basis of ZIL, Kamaz or other heads, should first calculate the approximate cost. on youtube in the videos all easy and cheap zilch, cylinder and done)))) In fact, all quite different.

  • 1. The cylinder on the classics of the genre.propane 500 rubles on eBay. (I had in the stash)
  • 2. Wheels. 300r approximately (brought friends)
  • 3. Angle 50 2m, 1/2 2m pipe for the handle about 200r
  • 4. A compressor zil 130. 1500r the lowest market on the avito and need to go get it for gasoline 500r
  • 5. Repair kit for this head (rings, bearings, gaskets, liners, valves) 1000r
  • 6.Motor 2500r Avito (I gave them away for free) again I have to go somewhere for him.
  • 7. Electrics if you have 380v, this is the easiest and cheapest option. Need a 380 pressostat and a magnetic starter. In my case, to connect to 220v need 3 capacitors for 1500r, time relays 500r, magnetic starters 1000r, pressostats on ali.1000р

The rest of the little things will not even count. The valve, fittings, American-style. I had it all. This is all related to my work))) If you buy it all, you can go another 1000-1500r. It’s going to end up going to myself. For me it cost about 7 meters and need to order a pressostat. Well, this work I am not a burden but a joy! Conclusion is more likely to be so If the material for the compressor at all nada and have nothing, then better not bother, and immediately save up some more money and buy a normal belt compressor! Guys, it’s like this it’s unvarnished! Good luck to all and goodbye! Computer model author: Reanimator33. г. Orekhovo-Zuevo.

Using gearboxes with locks

Reservoir for a compressor with locks problematic to assemble. First and foremost it is important to note that the models should have a high parameter allowable pressure. Filters for devices fit only on pads. It should also be noted that the relays must be installed before the reducer. Specialists say that receivers of this type are produced with small tees. Some modifications are assembled with carriers. Sensors are used to normalize pressure inside the chamber. Reverse acting valves are installed with baffles. They are only capable of passing air in one direction.

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