Saw laminated chipboard without splitting at home
Sawing Particleboard. Handling methods and techniques
[contents]If you have at least once tried to saw chipboard at home you know for sure that it is not an easy job and not only requires some skill, but also a good tool. Laminated chipboard is particularly difficult to work with and often leads to splintering when cutting it. That is why many craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to saw Woodchipboard when buying, especially since many trade organizations provide similar services and the price for them is quite acceptable.
The cutting of chipboard is done with a precise formatting and cutting machines, which help to obtain workpieces of desired size and shape.
Modern models allow you to saw evenly not only horizontally and vertically, but also at an angle.
Apart from cutting the sheets you can get several variants of competent and economical sawing of sheet material (with the help of special computer programs) and, if necessary, you can get edging. However, if you, for whatever reason, prefer to do this work yourself, before sawing particleboard will have to do some preparatory work.
How to saw chipboard without splitting
In order to saw off evenly and without chips chipboard at home, you need to know some tricks. Without a doubt, it is better if you’ll be sawing with an electric jigsaw. Of course you can saw with a hacksaw as well, but the result is unlikely to please you, although it is possible to saw Particle board for various needs where the quality of the cut does not play any role. And so, we need a smooth and beautiful cut. For this we take an electric jigsaw, a ruler, a tape measure and an angle piece for a right angle (if it is necessary), an awl or a sharp object with which to draw the line for the trimmer on the laminate on the chipboard. We measure a part that we will saw off with 1-2 mm reserve on the subsequent adjustment and attach a ruler, on it we guide with an awl or sharp object the fishing line for a saw cut, try to press harder to cut through the laminate, and we saw along the line not along the line itself, but exactly along, only catching it with the edge of the saw.
Then coarse sandpaper finish the edges of our cut to the right condition and, if the quality of the sawn end you are not satisfied, take the wax chalk required color t.е. color Chipboard and grout the chips. Let’s talk about saws for a jigsaw, I personally use BOSSNevsky.
If you need to saw without chipping on one side only, you can use a saw with the tooth up and down, I use a small saw with a straight tooth they are less splintering and the cut on both sides is pretty decent. It will be more convenient to work on the sawn end with sandpaper, if you stretch it on an even bar. Furniture wax crayons and markers you can buy in furniture stores, where they sell fittings. If you can’t find a crayon in the color you want. No problem, you can make it out of several others by mixing like paints. Simply melt crayons with a candle and drop them on a plate, one color on it another, then roll into one and rub the edges with chips, remove the excess with a ruler or knife and polish rag gently, strongly press it is not necessary.
The rules for sawing
Before sawing, choose a method, as well as accessories and tools.
- Apply dots on the end face of the chipboard. Determine in advance what type of cutting will be done. straight or shaped. Their cutting technique is different.
- Connect the points in the trimmer line and glue the sticky tape on top. Sawing the laminated chipboard preferably with adhesive tape. It will reduce the cracks in the cut, because the wooden board is subjected to strong pressure with the increase in temperature.
- Sawing the board. The accessory is installed at the desired angle to achieve extremely straight edges. The process should be smooth, regular and without heavy pressure.
- Trim irregularities and edges with a file and rasp, if necessary. The edges can be veneered with veneer of the appropriate color. This will protect them and make them look more beautiful.
To mask poor-quality ends, the method of decorative finishing is used. veneering (gluing the sides). Not only the appearance will be improved, but also the service life of the product will be extended.
Only after placing all the necessary tools on the table, you can start cutting.
Recommendations for a splinter-free cut
First, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.
Secondly, in order to better control the process of cutting, it is justified to apply the marking line for the trimmer on both sides of the laminated chipboard and check the accuracy of processing the top and bottom.
And thirdly, to take constant breaks to cool down the cutting equipment.
Sometimes the solution in this matter can be a simple cutting through the laminated layer of the material with a mounting knife, and the subsequent work with the jigsaw will not cause major defects in the form of chips. However, this work requires from the performer a certain experience and accuracy.
If you liked this material I would be grateful if you recommend it to your friends or leave a helpful comment.
Reception 2. “Reverse cut”.
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner. backward. That is, the circular saw rotates as you feed the workpiece. We set the minimum depth of cut, engage the saw and move it backwards instead of forwards.
If you have a regular saw, you just lock the saw with the minimum outreach over the base. The meaning of the first pass is that the blade, moving on the guide, only grabs our workpiece. We need a little groove on the chipboard.
If you make the first undercut you will see that there are no splinters in this (back) feed. The surface is perfect!
Now we set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a normal forward feed. We have two cuts on one workpiece. No wave nicks, burns, nothing. perfect quality!
What else you need to know?
When it is planned to saw off everything without chipping on one side, it is acceptable to use saws with both upper and lower arrangement of teeth. Most craftsmen prefer small straight-toothed saws. Such devices are less likely to chip off the material, but still work quite decently. After sawing, it’s best to work the ends with an emery cloth stretched on even bars. If you do not have a ready-made crayon of a suitable color, you can mix different crayons, like paints in an artist’s palette, and get a new color.
Curvilinear surfaces of a given configuration to get at home is even more difficult, while you will have to spend extra money on the purchase of another cutter, which will help you get rid of chips and nicks, formed when you cut wood chipboard.
Price manual milling machines can vary greatly, depending on the company-manufacturer, capacity, availability of additional functions. If you are not planning to engage in the production of furniture professionally, it is advisable to buy an inexpensive model.
To cut the chipboard you need to do the following steps:
- Having marked out the contours of the required part on the sheet of chipboard, we cut it out with the jigsaw, trying to saw with a couple of millimeters off the planned line of the cut;
- We make templates of wood-fiber board or plywood of the project radius and carefully sand the ends with sandpaper;
- After attaching the template to the part to be trimmed, clamp it with clamps and process it with a manual coping cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the planned line.
It doesn’t matter which cutter (with two or four blades) is used. The only requirement is that the knives must cover the entire height of the thickness of the cut to be processed. After processing it is only necessary to glue the edge on the part. See how to do it at
Getting the job done
Once the saw is chosen, it is still necessary to correctly saw the laminated board at home. Experts recommend sawing along a guide rail (a rail clamped in clamps is also suitable). If a new, unworn blade is used, it is possible to cut the chipboard as cleanly as with a circular saw. It is advisable to set the jigsaw to the lowest rpm possible. This will substantially increase the life of each saw blade used.
The blades themselves are placed at right angles to the jigsaw foot. The easiest way to check the angle is to use an angle piece or protractor. Important: The straight line passing through the cutting edge of the tool must be parallel to the rigidly fixed part of the jigsaw. It is recommended to use special inserts that reduce the risk of splintering. But to make them work more effectively, they usually notch the laminated layer on the side where the blade will come out.
Watch the following video to find out how to saw laminated chipboard using a jigsaw without splitting.
Step 1. Sawing along the guide
We set the guide (rail) on the workpiece, set the cutting depth and make the cut. As you can see, even on the outsides of our workpieces made of particleboard there are no signs of chips or cracks. Smooth cut without any signs of scoring or side waves. Why the difference?
What is the merit of the guide rail?
When we are sawing with the disk, we inevitably move the saw, we get the so-called “iron movement”. That is, when we lead with our hand we move the saw to the right, to the left all the time. The guide, which has a rigid edge, avoids this.
Respectively, when we move the saw along the guide rail it does not move and the saw blade itself works straight, it does not change its position. The perfect line for a trimmer is parallel to the guide.
What to do if you do not have a manual circular saw and a guide?
You have to make the guide yourself. Let’s find an ordinary profile, it is possible to take a rule, any flat rail, the main thing is its geometry.
Measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your workpiece Particleboard. We use any clamp to secure the guide to the workpiece and start the cut.
The main thing in the process is to always hold the saw against the guide rail. That is, your hand should always lead the saw in the direction of the homemade rail.
After sawing you get a nearly perfect cut, the trimmer blade can barely see the cut. We made the cut very well, the cut itself is clean, no side marks can be seen on it. Except for a small pile on the back side of the workpiece.
Where did this lint come from, because we were working with a guide (rail)?
There is a special plastic protective strip on the purchased cutting guide rail. This band keeps the lint from rising and the saw trims it. In this case we didn’t have this tape, so we got this lint on the surface.
We use a regular painter’s tape. Glued to the place of the kerf on it is made a marking and sawed together with painter’s tape. The adhesive tape holds it in place and we get a clean cut.
Just drive the saw blade slower. That is, if you do the same thing with a slower feed, then the chips will be much less.