Stand for angle grinder angle grinder for stationary cutting

Features of using the angle grinder as a saw

It is worth remembering for your safety that not all types of discs can be used directly for the angle grinder. First of all it concerns discs for wood sawing that have much lower rotational speeds than those used in almost all bolt cutters.

An exception is special wood discs that are designed for standard angle grinders’ speeds.

It is a good idea if your tool has RPM control. And if not, then, before you use your angle grinder as a coping saw on wood, make a simple regulator of its speed on the basis of chip KR1182PM1, or close to her on the indicators, according to this scheme.

You should not use a simple rheostat for this. Together with the reduction in RPM, it will also proportionally reduce the power and torque of the tool. And for the most angular grinder to use in such modes of operation harmful.

It is highly recommended to provide your stand with an emergency tool disconnect button, because it can be difficult to access the disconnect button once the angle grinder is installed in the stand. And even reliably fixed in the device angle grinder. a tool is quite traumatic.

You can put such a button in the cut of the wire of its power, but it is better to break the supply electric line, because the angle grinder, removed from the rack, becomes a normal mobile tool with all its advantages.

Nozzles and guards for angle grinders

Article number: 706003926 The stand is designed for angle grinders with a disc diameter of 115 or 125 mm and is used for stationary applications. Comes with an angle vise.

Article No.: 706004153 The disc sleeve is suitable for fine and accurate trimming of ceramic tiles, granite or marble at an angle of 45° on angle grinders with a disc diameter of 115 or 125 mm.

Article number: 706004149 The hood is designed for efficient dust extraction. Suitable for angle grinders with 115 or 125 mm disc diameter.

Item No.: 706004287 The nozzle is used in conjunction with angle grinders with a disc diameter of 125 mm for cutting grooves with a depth of 28 mm and a width of 30 mm in stone, concrete, aerated concrete and masonry.

Article number: 706004289 The guard hood is suitable for use with 125 mm disc angle grinders, for dust extraction when sanding paintwork and concrete, stone, wood, fiberglass.


These stationary models are more complicated, but allow for more precise cutting of the material.

What you will need to do:

  • Work table. Its frame is easy to weld from a channel or angle bar. As the tabletop is suitable sheet metal, although often used particleboard, fibreboard or FSF. It all depends on what purposes is going to be set up and what kind of workpieces is going to be handled by the craftsman.
  • Frame construction. One part is fixed, and it is a support. It is installed on the tabletop and attached by bolts or welding. The second by means of a hinged joint. to the first. This is where the “angle grinder” is mounted, the position of which is easily changed manually. Springs are provided to return the tool to its original position.
  • The ruler. It will help you to set the required dimensions of the cut samples. Alternatively, a strip of iron or tube with marks and a movable marker.

In principle, there is nothing particularly complicated here. If the idea itself is clear, it is not difficult to make your own drawing, having determined the linear parameters of the machine components.

What to consider:

  • There are different models of machines. In some “angle grinder” is located under the table top, in others. above it. In terms of safety, the second option is more reliable.
  • In the tabletop you need to make a cutout on the mowing line adjoining it disk angle grinder.
  • If you know the basics of electrical engineering, you’d better switch on the machine with a magnetic starter and combine the button with a foot pedal. In this case, even if the hands are busy, the angle grinder can be stopped at any time with the foot.

Do not forget about the elementary safety requirements. After completing the assembly of the machine should be “run” at idling speed and make sure that there is no beating of the abrasive disc. it should not touch the protective casing.

Preparation: tools and materials

Stand for the angle grinder with their own hands made of metal prof-tubes square shape in section (wall thickness. 2 mm), it is welded / screwed: a sheet of metal as a base, bolts to secure and a spring (for counterweight). To connect them you will have to use a welder.

If there are no pipes in the house, the material can also be hardwood, and welding can be replaced by drilling. In this case we will additionally need: grinder, angle, a set of nuts and bolts with a drill. Self-made wooden holder for angle grinder is convenient because it can be disassembled and reassembled.

Cutting sheet metal with an angle grinder

To cut sheet metal, you will need to buy a special carriage, which moves on a guide (a square profile tube).

But as practice shows, the cost of a good carriage is high (more than 100), so you can make it with your own hands. Since this process is quite complicated to describe, to understand the technology of making this slider can be seen in this video. With the help of the device you can cut not only steel, but also ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles.

Please note that when cutting ceramics, a lot of dust is generated. For this reason it is recommended to fit the hood of the angle grinder with a dust canister with a suction pipe for a vacuum cleaner.

Stand for the angle grinder (angle grinder) for stationary cutting. Tips for choosing

In the article Cutting, sharpening and circular machine from the angle grinder with their own hands showed some examples of how to make simple designs for the angle grinder (angle grinder) for stationary cutting metal.

This is always handy. No sparks are flying at you, the workpiece is secured and there is no risk of the angle grinder jamming if the workpiece slips in your hands. Those who have had a disk break during work know what I mean. If you cut metal often, this stand is just indispensable.

Home-built version. Stand made of profile pipe, angles and a swivel (gimbal) from a car and a spring.

Many people lack a welder and have no possibility to weld such a construction. If you look, many factory models of racks for angle grinder have not such a high price. I suggest you look at some examples and understand what to pay attention to when choosing:


The first thing you need to pay attention to. this is for which diameter and size of the disc angle grinder stand designed: 115, 125, 150, 180 mm. It is clear that you will not put a large angle grinder in such a compact design. Picture shows the angle grinder stand for 115-125 mm discs.

The second is the possibility of cutting (setting the clamping of the workpiece) at 45°. (or any other degree). The presence of a scale in degrees is welcome. If there are bolts to adjust the vertical position of the angle grinder. great too. To check the verticality you can use a small level and hold it to the disc. But before doing so, check the horizontal position of the base.

stand, angle, grinder, stationary, cutting

It is better if the base (bed) of the stand is cast iron, solid and heavy. This will give stability. Т.к. the angle grinder is at the top, the center of gravity is offset. And with the same heavy base. the stand will never tip over.

There must be extra protection against sparks. This makes the process as safe as possible. Anyway, you have to wear safety glasses anyway.

And, perhaps, the most important element in the design is the quick-clamping mechanism for workpieces. A quick-clamping mechanism with an eccentric is shown. No need to twist the clamp as in a vice. It is good, if there will be placed and the scale in degrees.

The average cost of racks for angle grinder. from 1500 to 2500 There are and above, for grinders with a large disc to 230 mm. There the cost can be 5000 Maybe a large bed for a powerful angle grinder more profitable to weld yourself. Who has the space (workshop) and other tools.

If anyone uses the factory models of such stands. write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, what are their disadvantages and what would you finalize in such a stand.

For example, it would be nice if it was possible to fix the angle grinder in the lower position and a stand to support workpieces. It would allow you to grind and machine parts like on a sharpening machine or grinder. But I haven’t seen any factory models of this design. On the picture a well-made and painted version of the craftsman.

MY DIY. Angle Grinder Stand With Sliding Bar For 100-125mm Miter Saw Converter Mini Table Saw

In this online store I found a very inexpensive stand. But I can not say anything about its quality:

The photos are taken from open sources, from Yandex.The pictures are

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The first question a home handyman faces when constructing a stand for an angle grinder is what to make it from. The answer to this question is elementary: we will use what we have. If you have water pipes, they can be useful for making joints and guides. If you have a metal angle. make a frame out of it.

The pendulum cut-off saw’s main and most complex knot is the hinge knot. It carries the greatest loads, and the pendulum arm should not be able to arbitrarily deviate to the left or right. Treat the design of this part with the greatest attention. It is ideal to use roller bearings. Choose a couple of suitable sizes. and “around them” build the rest of the construction.

It is best to mount the pendulum arm on ball or roller bearings. This gives the best accuracy and stiffness. But if there are no suitable off-the-shelf products, you can look up variants of homemade designs of this unit.

If there are no ready-made bearings, choose pairs of metal tubes and steel pins of suitable diameters. This allows you to make not too high quality, but homemade bearings. For the “plywood” machine as a suspension for the pendulum lever good hinges, used for fixing doors and gates, will do quite well.

In any case, it is better to make the pendulum arm itself from metal angle or metal profile. But the holder, in which the angle grinder will be fixed, will probably be made of a wooden bar.

For reliable and tight fixation of the angle grinder in the holder, it is better to glue the bed with soft and durable material. For example, with leatherette. And it is more convenient to clamp the angle grinder to the holder with flexible metal ties with a screw knot. These are widely used in plumbing and car service.

The base is best made of thick sheet metal. Compromises are possible, up to thick plywood mounted on a wooden bar frame. It is good to provide on the working table the possibility of fixing stop angles at some standard angles to the axis of the cut. That’s how we get a “mitre saw”.

Don’t forget that you can’t operate the angle grinder on the machine in the usual way. We can replace the operator‘s hand on the control keys with the same screw ties for pipes. But the keyboard control station (which we will fix on the bed), the socket for inclusion in the chain of the fixed angle grinder and the wire with a plug long enough to include the entire machine into the network should be stockpiled.

If we have metal workpieces, it is best to connect them by welding. If you do not have such an opportunity, it is better to turn to the familiar masters of this business. Bolted joints tend to come loose over time and cancel out all the advantages of a metal frame.

Of course, in the manufacture of the machine tool will be useful and the angle grinder. Cutting blanks for the rack with it, you can feel like Munchausen, pulling himself out of a swamp by his pigtail.

Tool clamping options

Many experts say that there is no better way to fix the workpiece than the well-known vice. Using this attachment ensures that risks of injury are reduced to zero, even if the abrasive disc breaks into small pieces. Special attention should be paid to the rotary vice type, which has special longitudinal grooves in its base. If the craftsman manages to make the right oblique cut, you can achieve a significant increase in functionality of the device.

To begin with, you need to prepare strong fasteners according to the drawings of the rack for the angle grinder. With your own hands you can build a unique device for the angle grinder, which must necessarily consist of such elements:

  • A spring to provide a counterweight.
  • 2 tubes as bearings.
  • 2 meters of profile pipe.
  • Sheet metal for a firm base.
  • 2 bolts.

You can build a stand from the most ordinary materials that can be found in almost every garage and private house. Of course, you just can’t do without a welder. Despite this, such a stand will not only be of high quality, but also will be much cheaper than a purchased product. For more convenient use of devices its frame can be equipped with an ergonomic handle. In this case, a simple tube that is fixed with a welding machine will do.

Those craftsmen who do not want to spend a long time with the workpiece, you can use the usual protective cover. In it you only need to make the necessary holes and attach the angle grinder. Bolts with self-locking nuts are good for fixing. Finally, the entire structure must be attached to the base.

Stand for angle grinder

No matter how I try to saw off a pipe or angle grinder. it does not always turn out even. Hardly ever, to be exact.

Here, in the process of making another home-made machine I got mad. I threw everything and decided to make a stand for the angle grinder. With its help, I can evenly saw not only at 90°, but also at 45 and 30, and in general at any angle!

Cutting device for sheet metal, angle grinder stand, how to build

stand, angle, grinder, stationary, cutting

I made up the dimensions and design on the spot, on the base of available materials. Now is not the time to buy something special.

At first I found the components for the hinge, on which the angle grinder will turn.For a quality cut the joint should be powerful enough and without the slightest backlash.

Found an old shaft and flange from the Volga pump and a few bearings, including the dead ones.I assembled such a sandwich to push the bearings apart as much as possible:

For the outer ring of the hinge I found a suitable tube

It was a bit too big in diameter, so I made a slit to clamp the bearings like a clamp.

I welded a pair of angle bars and drilled holes in the right places

The second component of the stand is a pendulum with a mount for an angle grinder.

The angle grinder holder was bent from a strip of 2.5 mm

I welded the mount, trying to keep the angle grinder parallel to the rotation plane of the lever as much as possible. To do this, I inserted pins into the fixing holes when welding, so that I could control the parallelism with them.

What all the holes and welded nuts are for is clear below._

The third component is the base.It was welded from a 32×32 angle

The two 20×20 profile tubes in the middle are guides for the adjustable stop, which should hold the workpiece.

The table was made from a 30x30cm plate, 3mm thick, sawn into two parts. Fastened to the base with M5 screws.

At the end of the table a 3mm plate is welded to the base. It is for fixing the return spring, and to level the table further on the rails.

After all the fitting I assembled the rack together:

At one side is screwed down with the standard handle, at the other. with a bolt M8

Vertical adjustment of the angle grinder. top and bottom with two stops (furniture legs)

Bearings are clamped in a cage by M6 bolt

The sleeve is screwed to the base with two M6 bolts

The right hole is oval, so that you can adjust the position of the cage

A return spring is from Volga pads.

I made a zinc clamp to keep it from slipping off.

I can’t say everything in one post, there are too many pictures.

Continuation (about adjusting the angle grinder position and making the stop) will be in the next post.

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