STIHL 180 does not feed oil to the chain
Parts of the lubrication system
Depending on the brand of chain saw, the details of the lubrication system may vary slightly structurally, but their total number and connection scheme remains constant.
The main components of the lubrication system are:
- oil tank usually located in engine crankcase.
- Filter element, installed in the tank.
- Lube line is a small cross-section hose made of oil-resistant rubber.
- The lubricating oil pump is the heart of the system.
- The worm gear that transmits the power from the motor to the pump.
- The chainsaw bar, it too can be considered an element of the lubrication system, because it has special holes for the oil supply, by the way and the chain itself is involved in the oil transportation and accordingly also has some elements designed specifically to provide lubrication.
STIHL ms 180 chain saw chain oil throws on the cover, not the chain
Petya (Janny) Victor, helped, worked like clockwork, thank you.
Andrew (Bahija) Hello. just recently bought a ms 180, in the store in front of me started the saw. Everything was fine. Then I went to the cottage and made the fuel mixture, filled it up. I also filled the chain oil. But the saw won’t start, that’s all. no spark! I can’t get the starter to work. Could it be because I poured more oil than necessary when making the mixture?? I did it by eye. Or maybe it’s something else?
Radis (Darcy) what about the oil if you do not have a spark, the oil is like 100 grams per 5 liters
Alexey (Bernward) Andrew, oil 100gr.The usual practice shows that some customers come back the next day with the story “we can’t start the saw”, and as a rule, the reason is overfilling the spark plugs or running-in, the so-called!
Ruslan (Cadoc) advise how to increase the idle speed on the STIHL 180.
Sergey (Teneh) Ruslan, on the left side there is a hole in the handle (circled in the photo), stick a screwdriver and twist it forward (in the photo)
Radis (Darcy) yes on the clock, but why would you do that, the chain will start rotating
Dmitry (Malkosha) Vladimir, carburetor rods are all in place? control shaft is not broken? In the food plastic fuel mixture stored?
Vladimir (Ksenya) All is normal with rods and the mixture is fresh.
Vladimir (Ksenya) I am told that he may have to replace the carburetor.
Dmitri (Malkosha) Vladimir, unfortunately it happens, with a carburetor already nothing can be done, only replace.
Andrew (Bahija) The spark plug is busted where can I get it?
Tags: STIHL ms 180 chain saw chain oil throws on the cap, not the chain
Lubrication System Arrangement
Depending on the brand of chainsaw, the parts of the lubrication system may vary slightly structurally, but their total number and connection scheme remains the same.
The main components of the lubrication system, are:
- The oil tank, usually located in the engine crankcase.
- Filter element in the tank.
- The oil pipe is a small diameter hose made of oil-resistant rubber.
- The heart of the system. the oil pump.
- The worm gear that transmits the power from the motor to the pump.
- The chainsaw bar, it can also be considered an element of the lubrication system, as it has special holes for oil supply, by the way, and the chain itself is involved in the transportation of oil and, accordingly, also has some elements designed just to provide lubrication.
STIHL Spare Parts STIHL 180 Do-it-yourself repairs on the STIHL ms 180 chain saw. The chain is not lubricated.
The main causes of STIHL 180 oil loss.
Fuel system of chain saw: 1. fuel filter, 4. fuel filter.5. carburettor, 3. manual priming pump.
If the carburetor is properly adjusted, the fuel will be used in the allowable amount. Otherwise it will end very quickly.
Slow reduction of fuel in the time of the saw’s operation is a normal process. If it’s missing, the chain isn’t lubricated properly, so the chainsaw’s work will be fine. You should not only know how to solve the problem, but also detect it without help of others.
Manually change the fuel supply is an option. Correctness of work of a lubricating complex is defined by a method of a bar. If oil splashes appear, it means that what remains to be done to our customer is set up correctly.
It’s better to make a cut with a considerable amount of lubricant. If you have to work with soft wood, fed a small amount of fuel.
The chain can always be perfectly lubricated. This will avoid the smoke and the impending failure of the entire chainsaw. If oil is leaking or not coming out at all, you need to determine the reason. It is not advisable to operate the tool prior to repair.
Choosing the right fuel, do it right. The desire to save leads to the fact that the chain quickly burns out. To avoid nasty consequences do not choose oil, the manufacturer of which is China. Preference should be given to unusual firms. In their own price range they are significantly higher, but their quality is better.
Advantages of high-end oil pumps
The maintainability of dismountable pumps is sufficient for a complete rebuild of the pump at home.
Gears of the pump drive for budget chainsaws in the majority of cases are polymer. Technically sophisticated brand name pumps with adjustable capacity are fitted with drive trains made of non-ferrous metals. The cost of such systems is compensated by the savings in fluid consumption of up to 50%.
STIHL STIHL 180 chain saw chain is not lubricated properly
To apply oil to the chainsaw chain, the chainsaw has a special pump that feeds oil to the bar in doses, depending on the number of revolutions of the motor.
The system uses chain oil with high adhesive properties, it is necessary for the oil to spread evenly around the bar and retain it even at high chain rotation speed. Let’s have a closer look at the oil delivery system of today’s chainsaws.
Most common faults
- Oil hose breakage. It can be found from time to time by visual inspection. The problem is solved by replacing the defective part.
- Lack of thread on oil pump shaft, its replacement will help.
- Defective threads on the pump drive pinion are similarly solved by installing the newest part.
- Lack of corkscrew on main shaft (critical for some models, for example Homelite). Can be corrected by replacing the native corkscrew, suitable across the nail, cutting it to the right length.
- Line blockage. Can be removed by blowing out with compressed air or mechanically with a wire with a suitable cross section.
- Filter element is clogged.
- STIHL MS 180 with a pump that cannot be disassembled often becomes clogged. You could try washing it in clean gasoline, if that doesn’t help replace it.
- STIHL chain saws (Gypsy) often have sheared off grooves in the pinion, which transmits the force of the sprocket to the pinion.
Individual fault in the STIHL MS 180 lubrication system
Given that the STIHL MS 180 is one of the most common chainsaw models, I want to dwell on one particular fault and outline a method of removal without replacing parts.
It is not uncommon for the STIHL MS 180 chain saw to have a leak in the oil line where the oil pipe from the tank is installed in the saw housing. You can tell if there is a problem by looking for corresponding lubricant leakage on the bottom of the tool.
To fix the problem you need to remove the chain saw handle, take the hose out of the seating hole, clean and degrease. After all these steps, apply sealant to the hose seating area and install it in the chainsaw body.
To learn more about how to troubleshoot and fully diagnose the STIHL chain saw’s lubrication system, please watch the step-by-step video of how to disassemble and repair the lubrication system.
Signs of chain lubrication system malfunction and how to check it
- Chainsaw chain is dry and has pale color without shine.
- The chain stretches relatively quickly.
- The tire is very burning and may even partially melt the paint.
- No oil coming out of the oil tank.
- Cutting performance is reduced on sharp chain
All of these signs indicate that the lubrication process is not functioning properly. To check the oil flow in the lubrication system, remove the side bar and start the chain saw. Next, you need to slightly increase the speed, but keep an eye on the end of the oil pipe. If oil is coming in, most likely there is not enough oil for regular lubrication and you should clean or replace the filter and, if possible, adjust the flow. In the case where it does not feed, the problem is more severe and requires further diagnosis.
There is a way to check the oil flow without removing the bar. This is done by pointing the end of the bar towards e.g. a freshly cut billet on the cut side and very gradually increasing the speed, taking care to keep the end of the bar less than 10mm away from the billet. If oil stains start to appear on its surface, it means that oil is being pumped.
STIHL 180 does not supply oil to the chain
Do it yourself.Causes of chain oil stoppage and how to remove them. Checking the chain lubrication system of the STIHL MS180 chain saw. Duration: 18:41. Eugene does not start the Chinese chain saw. Diagnosing the chain lubrication system of a STIHL MS180 chain saw. tell me please my STIHL 180, it’s not an idiot with oil, I’ve changed weights. Many chain saws start without any problems. STIHL MS 180 chain does not give oil to the chain I’ve tried everything, I’ve taken out the pump, I’ve blown it out. STIHL electric and gasoline saws; STIHL Disadvantages: Poor oil flow for chain lubrication I have to change the throttle and wait for the chain to cool down. Real working saw, not a toy like MS180! I don’t see how I can buy a chain saw with more power.
Choose the right oil
Once you have your STIHL chain saw you immediately have a question: What kind of oil to put in your STIHL chain saw?? If you take good care of the technique, designed for work in construction and garden, then you can greatly improve the level of activity of the device itself without facing a breakdown of various kinds.
It is worth noting that the most important factors in the device direct performance is the use of proper lubricants and fuel. Although the main problems owners of the technique take place with the choice of oil for their pets. At this point you can learn how to select the lubricant specifically for STIHL chain saws.
I want to use TAD 17 on my STIHL 250 chain saw. It’s very thick in winter. Isn’t it worse for the oil pump, won’t it break down if it’s overloaded?? And if you can. What’s the principle of the pump that feeds oil to the chain??
The oil pump that goes into a 180 250 is practically indestructible, it has a brass cylinder. Even the exhaust takes twice as long as the aluminum ones.
But the principle of operation is very simple. I wish I had an illustration, and I haven’t seen it anywhere. If the words two parts, the cylinder and the plunger rotating in it. The plunger has a milled flat on the end. The plunger moves back and forth slightly as it rotates.
There are two holes in the cylinder against each other. When the flattened part of the plunger approaches the plug hole, it is pulled out of the cylinder and some oil is sucked in.
When the flange is turned to the discharge port, the plunger moves into the cylinder, pressure is built up, oil flows through the channel to the guide bar. As you can see, in principle, to damage the pump as much as thick oil can not just will not go, and that’s all._
If oil comes out of the tank when the chainsaw is not running, that’s normal? Т.е. if you have to saw a little, you have to fill it up a little as well? if the oil flows out of the reservoir completely during the inactivity of the saw.
No. This is not normal. The problem is either with the oil pump or the reservoir itself. In general, oil and fuel consumption is usually 1 to 1._
What to grease the chain saw’s drive sprocket with?? Would Mobil or Jcb hydraulic grease be suitable, for example? What do you think?
Check the oil level in the pump, check the hose, and if you run it every five minutes, all the oil leaks out, and the position of the adjusting screw reacts _ A gearmaker should use grease on all tires (except for Stihl), if you do not use grease, the bearing may shatter, and then the tire is the end, and Stihl tires are like a plus on the one hand, but on the other hand saw Stihl almost new tires with burnt bearings._
Chainsaw is running oil chain lubrication. It pours very slowly at idle, but pours in spurts when you step on the gas. It takes about five minutes to get all the oil out.
Doesn’t respond to the adjusting screw. Also, a little (0.5-1 mm), backlash sprocket, which rotates the chain. Who has experienced such a thing??
It is necessary to remove the sprocket and overhaul the oil pump, and check the hoses for cracks. The drive sprocket must have a small amount of play. It shouldn’t be tight. The vibrations are transmitted to the crankshaft._
Holes match when I put it, maybe when you tighten the chain hole moves away because of this does not get oil on the chain, but the chain, you can use one, as dull, remove a new one, the old one to sharpen, etc. two in a cycle of three chains before the tire’s worn out?
The oval oil holes on the chainsaw housing are designed so that the alignment of the oil holes on the bar and the housing is not lost at any position of the bar within the range of the chain tensioner.
Ideally the chain set and guide bar should fail at the same time when used on the saw one after the other in cyclic mode. There are two options for lubrication. Well, I mean, what’s the oil supply through.
Most tires have a separate hole to supply lubricant to the chain, and these big ones are used for tensioning. And some (and not few) do not have a separate lubrication hole.
And a free idler hole is used for lubrication. In this case, it will be sure to communicate with the bar groove. You can check with a wire. It’s not good or bad, it’s a feature.
So in the second case, quite a big oil loss is possible if the chainwheel cover is not tightly attached. Then it just goes through (unlike bars with a separate hole), and drips down._
After a minute of running the chainsaw at idle a few times I pressed the gas a few times, the oil to lubricate the chain started to flow so hard into the chain that it became a puddle of oil under the saw. Where is the chain oil adjustment screw?? And what is the proper way to make this adjustment?
Your model does not have a chain oil regulator, it is fed automatically. Carefully inspect and thoroughly clean the oil slots on the bar, and carefully install the bar with the chain. That should help.
If you get a puddle of oil under the saw, it is most likely a loose guide bar or a clutch cap that is skewed, and that creates a gap between the oil pump outlet and the lubrication hole in the guide bar and causes the oil to leak out._
Tell me more about chain saw oil pumps.
On modern chainsaws (and electric chainsaws as well) pumps that are not plunger pumps are very seldom used. You might even say that they are not used at all. They all work the same way.
The main parts are an aluminum cylinder rigidly mounted in the housing and a steel plunger with a plastic gear, in this cylinder rotating. How it works: There’s one little hole at the blind end of the cylinder. There’s another one across from it.
One is suction, the other is discharge. The plastic plunger pinion has an oblique annular groove that aligns with the metal rod in the body.
Mechanics: When the plunger rotates due to the oblique groove it also reciprocates back and forth on each revolution.
Hydraulics: As the sheared portion of the plunger end approaches the suction port, the plunger is pulled back. a slight vacuum is created and a small amount of oil is sucked into the cylinder.
Turning the plunger about half a turn the sheared section (with the oil in it, of course) approaches the discharge port.
At this time the plunger advances towards the blind end of the cylinder. Some pressure is created and oil flows into the lubricating line.
Now for the differences in design: The gear on the plunger can be metal. In this case, the worm on the crankshaft will be plastic, there is no way out, there must be a weak point.
the pump casing can be made of metal. Well, not bad, of course, but not crucial.And most importantly adjusting the oil flow. In the first case, where the plunger axial movement is driven by an oblique annular groove.
Performance adjustment is technically not possible.If the longitudinal movement is achieved by an oblique cut at the rear of the plunger, the flow rate can be adjusted.
The plunger’s axial stroke length, and therefore the amount of oil that can be caught per revolution, is varied by using the adjustable stop at the rear of the plunger._
How often should I oil a chainsaw tire?? And I understand the grease should be about the consistency of lithol? Or is the same transmission acceptable?
after 1 or 2 fill-ups of gasoline. In addition to special lubricants for the sprocket, you can use lithol or bearing grease of similar consistency widely available in stores selling car parts and accessories. Transmission is too wet for this._
Chainsaw not oiling? Check this FIRST!. Homestead Tips
Bought a new chain, installed it, works great. But after a couple of minutes, the hole in the bar for the oil supply, clogged, and the chain goes dry.
Just enough for one cut. I take it apart again, clean it, start it up. Chain is lubricated without sawing. And after one cut, the tire is full of shavings again.
I haven’t tried to accelerate, because I had no time, the chain almost jams, I can’t scroll it with my hand, the bar and the chain are so hot, the chain-saw stops. Can you tell me what the problem is, didn’t see this with the old chain?
I have a strong suspicion that the oil is actually used for lubrication, but because of the large amount of dust (probably now sawing dried out wood, or even with chaff) getting into the bar groove and on the chain, it is not visible.
And what’s the condition of the tire?? Especially important in this case is the condition of the drive sprocket and the tire spacers (on which the chain slides during operation) in those places where the sprocket teeth “dive” into the tire during rotation, or appear from there.
Also, if the spacers are too worn, the bar groove depth might be too shallow and the chain drive shanks are caught in the bottom of the groove.
In this case too, there will be excessive heating of the chain and tire. It would appear that this is not the first time you’ve seen a chain on a guide bar.
Also, the fact that the chain stops when the chain jams is an indication that the clutch is not working. There is either dirt between the clutch cams and the clutch cup, or the cup is deformed. The clutch springs may be stretched.
One of the chain saw’s essential systems. the chain lubrication system. It’s no secret that when the saw is running, the chain rubs against the chain saw bar, which causes its heating and premature wear. To alleviate friction, the chain must be constantly lubricated.