the drill rotates only in one direction. Failure in the winding of the stator

What is reverse in a meat grinder

In order to understand why reverse is needed, it is necessary to first remember how a meat grinder works, what its main function is? To grind meat, the auger is equipped with a special cutting knife. Its main function is to grind the product. It enters the grate with holes, turning it into minced meat.

However, almost any housewife, is well aware that sometimes to make mince meat, at once quite difficult. If you have to deal with low-quality product, which has a lot of veins, the knives are powerless. The strands are scrolled together with the contents, constantly clogging the screw, screwing on it. All the time to unscrew the meat grinder to clean the screw, a bad way out. This is exactly the kind of situation where reversing can help.

Angle grinder turns in the opposite direction what to do

Usually the disk rotates counterclockwise (if you look from the disk side), the sparks fly forward, but recently, in a warehouse selling pipes, I saw that the cutter disk rotates in the opposite direction, the sparks fly under the feet. He has to cut a lot and every day. That’s why the question arose. how to do it right? Correct for safety, when sparks fly on the worker working with the angle grinder, on his feet. Why? When the angle grinder is clamped, it flies forward. It doesn’t hurt. (Sparks fly, pants burn. does not count). When turning it over, the sparks fly forward. Normally when cutting, the right elbow rests on the right shin. And when clamped, the angle grinder flies over the shin. It is better not to describe the consequences, I think it is clear. At least a month in the hospital. The majority of professionals cut “in their pants.

That’s exactly right (as you saw). when the sparks fly to the cutter, and the tractive force of the angle grinder from the cutter, not on it. What you saw, sparks flying at the cutter, it is the right choice of installation position of the angle grinder, and it is the installation of the housing, handle and shroud, for the direction of rotation of the shaft does not change. You can change the handle places (depending on the model angle grinder, it can be set in three or two positions at 180 degrees and 180 degrees in increments of 90) You can rotate the hood within its adjustment. But not all angle grinders allow you to “twist” the hood as you like. With some, you can also change the position of the gearbox.

Angle grinder (colloquially called “angle grinder”) is quite a dangerous tool, although very effective in many locksmith operations.

Having experience with all popular grinders, from 115 th to 230 th (the diameter of the disk, and thus the power of the unit), I can say that the devices to 150-th disc can still be confidently kept then in the case of unpredictable “kickback” than above this diameter, it is very difficult, and fraught with serious injury (!) That’s why you should not tempt fate, and regardless of the power of the unit, and the diameter of the disk, direct its rotation always away from yourself (if you look at his top) and sparks may fly at the feet, but it’s a hundred percent guarantee that you will hold the angle grinder in the case of bite and ejection.

Again, from personal experience, I can conclude that arm muscles react much harder by reflex to extension than to flexion (IMHO!) “Retracting” the cutter is less dangerous than rolling it. In extreme cases, the angle grinder will jump out of your hands and rush away from you, not toward you. Of course, you let go of the clamp and it will just fall without causing you any harm.

drill, rotates, only, direction, failure

So let the sparks fly, but always saw at yourself. That’s what you need a good suit (pants and a suit of thick fabric) From the flying sparks can burn your pants (just. it’s not terrible) and from the angle grinder flew at you. There can be all sorts of things!

I came to this belief solely from my experience, and that experience was not without some “losses”. However, it is confirmed by others

I have a small DWT angle grinder, the disc is on the right side as standard, rotates counterclockwise, sparks fly forward. But I do not work so categorically uncomfortable, because I can not see a product or a circle.

Turned the gearbox so the disk was visible, but sparks are flying at me. not nice. Question, is there any way to get the disc to rotate clockwise? Change wires from brushes? And another question as far as safe. In principle, the discs are light, will not cause serious injury, except that the eyes will be knocked out if you don’t wear glasses.

Who knows. tell me: I took a friend’s angle grinder (Interskol). I put the disk in, put a gasket under the nut. I tighten the nut properly. I turn it on and the nut immediately starts unscrewing. Especially fast. after I turn off the angle grinder. What’s this about?

luchnik78 wrote: The nut immediately begins to unscrew. Especially fast. after I turn off the angle grinder. What does this have to do with?

Well, what can I advise. Tighten it more or remove the gasket.

How did this happen and how to fix it?

luchnik78 wrote : angle grinder. when rotating, the clamping nut unscrews Why.

I never unscrewed it!grinders passed through my hands a lot, working myself 125, when rotating the nut should unscrew judging by the thread (I work this way, I am so comfortable), and never unscrewed, you better tighten, or put a new nut!

When the angle grinder slows down, the disk inertia unscrews the nut. Put the gasket under the disk and not under the nut, or remove it altogether.

Maybe it has been repaired and the brushes were accidentally switched and now rotate in the other direction

eatherly wrote : maybe it has been repaired and the brushes were accidentally switched, now it rotates the other way

The nut would be self tightening when stopped.

When the angle grinder brakes, the disk, by inertia, unscrews the nut. Put a gasket under the disc and not under the nut, or remove it altogether.

See also  What you can make from a drill with his hands

I put a new nut and a new gasket, the effect is the same. I think maybe the disc really does rotate the other way. The owner said his drill bit was stuck and he had to remove the bevel gear head and shaft. He clamped it in a vise and used a gas wrench to unscrew the nut. Maybe he got it wrong. He advised me that when you put in a new disk, give it a load immediately and then the nut will not unscrew, but I do not like something. you can forget and cause injury

The mechanical part

In the mechanical part of the impact drill, there can also be various breakdowns, such as jamming the shaft of the drill. If you can’t rotate the chuck by hand and the motor buzzes when you turn it on, it’s probably a gearbox or bearing failure. One of the most common causes of malfunctioning is bearing failure. If you buy the oil from a STIHL authorized dealer and buy the oil at the market or buy the oil from an authorized STIHL dealer, it is normal for the chuck to be in good condition and for the motor to run but not to rotate. All mechanical faults can cause intermittent stoppages and malfunctions during operation. humming, squealing and insufficient shaft rotation speed.

The principle of operation of the impact drill is based on the forward movement of two ratchets, which are repelled from each other during the rotation of the spindle motor. During impact drilling, the motor drives the spindle. The spindle motor spindle turns and transmits the rotary motion to the big gear wheel with a ratchet wheel attached firmly to it.

The undulating surface of the ratchet of the big gear slides on the undulating surface of the second ratchet, rigidly fixed in the gear housing, thereby performing an impact action. Over time, during prolonged and intensive use of the drill in impact drilling mode, the corrugated surfaces of the ratchets wear out, the impact becomes weaker and weaker or does not occur at all. Inspect the worn parts of the gearbox and replace with new ones, if necessary.

If the chuck jams or audible grinding, you must first disassemble the body of the drill and inspect the condition of the gears in the gearbox. Worn mounting splines or fractured gear teeth are indications that the part is failing. Such pinion must be replaced. Inspect the gears around the full circumference by turning the shafts by hand.

Bearings can be checked by turning the shaft in them. If the shaft is stiff, start by lubricating the bearings. If this does not help, they can be removed from the shaft by means of a special puller. Turn the bearing ring by hand. If movement is difficult or noises are heard, the bearing must be replaced. A bearing that is not replaced in time will cause the armature to seize or, at best, the bearing will simply rotate in its seat.

To get to the bearings of the drill you have to take off the whole motor and the gearbox, taking out the brushes beforehand so that they are not damaged and do not jump out.

Before you take out the insides of the drill, carefully consider what, where there was, so that when assembling, as it often happens with “experienced” masters are not left a bunch of unnecessary elements, the use of which is hard to find. Do not lose the ball that is on the end of the shaft of the drill chuck, it is responsible for the drilling mode with and without impact.

If necessary and severe wear of the drill chuck, you should unscrew the fixing screw, which is located inside the chuck.After that, unscrew the chuck with the left thread and remove it from the shaft. Replace the cartridge with a new one.

Often the drill breaks down during serious work, during an arduous repair or in other conditions, in order not to waste time and that it was not a problem for you, you should remember how to make repairs to the drill yourself. Know the construction of the drill you are using and find the cause of the problem quickly and easily and fix it.

Repair the drill with your own hands

To be able to find the problem, the drill has to be disassembled.

How to disassemble the tool

Some drills have an extra handle and drill depth limiter.

Additional lever and drilling depth stop

You need to loosen the clamp fastener and pull the handle through the chuck.

On other models, the auxiliary handle is screwed into the body of the drill.

The auxiliary handle is screwed into the drill body

If the drill has a grip plate that connects the two halves of the drill, use a flathead screwdriver to pry it loose.

  • Unscrew all fasteners and remove the top housing. Note that the two screws where the housing holds the chuck shaft are shorter than the others.
  • Unscrew the screws securing the cord to the housing. Carefully remove the wire harness and the rest of the drill from its grooves.

The chuck with the shaft and big gear 2 can be easily detached from the drill body. Remove the metal case of the gearbox 1 together with the motor. There is a ball on the shaft, which must not be lost, because it would be difficult to find the same one.

Remove the gear housing from the motor spindle.

Exchanging brushes

Signals to check the condition of the brushes are sparking in the manifold area, a decrease in rpm and warming of the drill. If these problems are not present, the condition of the brushes should be checked periodically. If at least one of the brushes is 40 percent worn, replace both brushes. Disassemble the body of the drill. Brushes are removed together with the brush holders. Some models have plugs on the housing that can be unscrewed.

Remove the brush from the brush holder and replace it with a new one.

Power button, soft starter and speed regulator

The drill speed regulator can be combined with the soft starter, or the regulator can be set on a separate knob on the housing, or the knob is mounted on the starter button.

Design and operation of the speed regulator button:

    When the trigger is pulled, the sliding plates 2 slide over the resistor strips 3 located on the electronic board. The springs of pin group 1 are depressed.

If the drill does not have a speed regulator, the circuit is similar, but without the wheel.

Speed regulator, as well as soft start, fails due to the fault of the microcircuit. If it is located separately from the trigger, disassemble the housing, disconnect the contacts and replace it with a new one. If the regulator is on the button, disassemble the case and remove the trigger.

    Set the multimeter to continuity test mode. Connect probes to input terminals of the trigger and press button. An audible signal should be emitted. If it is missing, the button must be replaced.
See also  How to disable the impact mode in a drill

Loosen the two screws that hold the power cord. Remove the wire.

Insert the pin into the hole with the wire from the stator. And remove the wire with the pin. Do the same with the second stator wire.

Replacing the button is easier than taking it apart and repairing it, because it has many small parts. But if you dare, carefully disassemble the button body, so as not to lose the jumping out springs.

Contact pads rub off and dust builds up which settles inside the plastic box. Dielectric surfaces become conductors of electricity. Because of this the speed and soft start are not adjustable. Remove metal dust with absorbent cotton and alcohol. Contacts may be scraped with a knife, but not with sandpaper so as not to spoil their surface.

Remove the chip from the other half of the button body. Test all elements. Replace damaged ones.

Often the internal cleaning of the button body restores its operation.

Reverse does not work or drill does not turn to the right

With direct rotation of the rotor, the end of the first stator winding is connected to the first brush. In reverse to the second. This switching happens in the reversing button. If the drill stops turning in one direction or the other, it means that the circuit is not closed. It is necessary to diagnose the button and if it is defective replace it or disassemble and clean the contacts.

Reverse is tested in several steps:

  • Move the reversing knob to the right position.
  • Insert the probe of the multimeter into the two holes on one side of the reversing button. Check if the instrument beeps. Now insert the probes into the two holes on the other side. There is an audible signal on both sides, it means that the right reverse position works.
  • Now set the reversing switch to the left position.

Insert the probes into the two holes, but on different sides of the button. Then insert into the other two holes. Check the beep of the multimeter.

If there is no beep at least at one stage, the button is defective. You can take it apart. If the contacts are shorted in both positions of the switch, clear them and call out again. If that doesn’t work, then replace the button.

Take the pin and insert it through the hole and remove the wire. Remove all wires in the same way.

The stator and brushes are routed to the reversing wire. They are connected diagonally, so draw a diagram so you don’t mix them up later. Or tape the tags to each wire.

Connecting the drill to a cable without a button

Remove the On/Off button. This includes the two leads of the power cord. If the drill had reverse, there are two wires coming out of the stator and brushes. That makes four in all. To connect them to the two cores of the mains cable, do the following:

Electrical faults

After learning about the construction of this tool, you can move on to examining the most common malfunctions. The first place to start is with the electrical parts. The most characteristic “symptoms” of this kind of failure are considered:

The electric screwdriver does not start. First, you should check the condition of the battery pack. If you have already tried to recharge the tool and it did not give any positive result, you should take a multimeter and try to identify the problem. First measure the voltage of the battery, which must correspond to the values printed on the battery itself. If it is too low, you should look for the faulty part. the charger or the battery.

You can check the condition of the “charger” with a multimeter. To do this, plug it into the power grid and check the voltage at idle. It should be about two or three volts over the nominal value. If there is no voltage at all, then the problem is in the charging unit. In this case to fix the tool you will need a wide knowledge of electronics.

If the battery is faulty, it needs to be opened. After that you need to carefully examine the condition of the wires and contacts and check that the soldering is secure.

If the battery and charger are in good working order but the tool won’t start, you have to take it apart. From the battery terminals comes a pair of wires. It is necessary to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the button input with inserted battery. If there is voltage at the input, the battery should be removed and the leads from the battery should be short-circuited using special clips “crocodiles”. Adjust the device for measuring resistance values (in ohm). Press the button as far as it will go and measure the output. The device should display the resistance value.

If it happened. there is no problem with the button, and the problem is either in the brushes, or in some other parts of the electric motor. In a situation where the device shows a breakage, it is necessary to repair or completely replace the button. The most important thing when dismantling the button. do not hurry and be as careful as possible, otherwise you might lose small parts. Similar actions need to be taken and if there is no reverse.

Electric actuator operates at maximum, but the speed setting does not work? The cause of this problem can also be in the regulating transistor, and the button.

In the case where all the electrical circuits of the drive are in good condition, but the electric screwdriver is still defective, the breakdown is in the brushes. Experts recommend changing these parts if their original length has worn down by forty percent.

Armature windings can be checked. In case the fault is in them, the armature can be purchased and replaced with your own hands.

Block: 3/4 | Characters number: 2980

Causes of the lack of shock

At first glance it seems that the shock mechanism has a simple design, and there is nothing to break there. The load, dust and vibration gradually take their toll. The impact force usually decreases as the mechanism wears and eventually goes to zero. The sudden disappearance of the blow is due to deformation or destruction of some parts.

A “Drunk” bearing

It is placed on the shaft at an angle and moves the piston. If the bearing is worn or fractured, it must be replaced.

See also  How to take out a broken drill shank from a perforator

Mode switch

The machine parts can come out of the guiding grooves. It can be a consequence of deformation, wear or frequent work with the tool not fully on. The defect can be repaired by reinstalling the parts or replacing them with new ones.

Mechanical Breakdown Remedy

Mechanical breakdowns on an electric screwdriver include a failure of the ratchet, gearbox and chuck of the machine.

Ratchet repair

If the ratchet on an electric screwdriver doesn’t work, you’ll need to disconnect it from the gearbox to troubleshoot. Sometimes there are special rods in the clutch, which regulate the force, and in some devices instead of rods there are 2 balls in each hole. They are pressed by a spring that presses on the balls when the adjustment ring is tightened.

In most cases, the repair of a ratchet of an electric screwdriver is to clean its components from dirt and apply new grease.

Repair of the electric screwdriver gearbox

If unusual noises are heard in a gearbox, or a spindle rotates jerkily, with slipping, it can be caused by damaged gears or worn-out teeth on the gearbox housing.

Gears are most often broken if they are made of plastic (used in cheap machines). If this happens, they must be replaced.

drill, rotates, only, direction, failure

In the following photo you can see the construction of the gearbox.

Worn plastic teeth inside the gear housing may be the reason why the spindle does not rotate when the motor is running.

To restore the functionality of the mechanism, you need to disassemble the gearbox (the process of disassembly is better to take pictures) and in place of the worn out teeth screw in a small bolt, reduced to the required size. The place where you will install the bolt must be countersunk. It must be exactly opposite the plastic tooth on the inside of the housing.

Make the same markings on the back of the case, opposite the first one.

Next, drill holes in the marked locations.

Screw a bolt of the required length into these holes, having previously ground so that they are flush with the other plastic teeth. After adjustment of bolts you can assemble the gearbox, applying the required amount of lubricant to gears. At this point, the repair of the electric screwdriver gearbox can be considered complete.

Types of faults of the electrical and mechanical part of the drill

An electrical malfunction occurs when the motor does not rotate, i.e.е. when the motor does not show any signs of starting (humming, vibrating, etc.).д.). If the core drill does not switch on, but the chuck can be easily turned by hand, then we can safely speak of an electrical malfunction. The same can be said if there is no speed control or reverse rotation. A pending electrical problem is indicated by. Temporary malfunctions of the drill, unusual noise can also indicate an electrical circuit.

The most common cause of an electrical malfunction is worn contact brushes. If they have worn down by more than 40%, then sparks and malfunctions can be observed. If the brushes are more worn out, the motor simply does not start. The following procedure (as available) is recommended to determine the cause of an electrical malfunction. First use a tester to determine the continuity of the cord (cable). Then the function of the start button (switch) and the integrity of the start capacitor are checked. Then remove and check the pushbuttons. Finally, the integrity of the motor windings is determined.

A clear sign of a mechanical fault is that the drill shaft is jammed. If the chuck can not be turned by hand and a buzzing noise is heard when the motor is switched on, then the gearbox or bearing is defective. The most common cause of mechanical failure is failure of the bearings. Failure of the gearbox can also occur when the chuck is rotated by hand and the motor is running, but the rotation is not transmitted to the main shaft. A mechanical fault can cause the drill to intermittently stop, a buzzing, grinding noise and insufficient RPM. In peorators, a malfunction in the mechanical part can take away the shock movement of the drill.

Finally, the malfunction can manifest itself in the drill chuck. For example, difficulties may arise in the removal of the drill bit when the cams do not move because of a breakage in the engagement inside the chuck. Sometimes the malfunction appears in the form of rotation of the chuck relative to the shaft of the drill. In this case, the failure is in the chuck mount on the shaft.

How to prolong the life of your power tool from the moment you buy it

To ensure that the purchased power tool serves for a long time and does not fail at the most inopportune moment, it is necessary from the very first day of purchase to ensure proper care of it. This care includes the following steps:

  • Store your tool only in a warm, dry place. Exposure to moisture and low temperatures will lead to condensation and failure of electrical parts of the tool
  • Do not use the tool for a long time with heavy loads, because it will cause overheating of the windings and electric motor failure
  • The impact mode does not mean that you can drill holes in concrete and reinforced concrete every day. The impact function of drilling is auxiliary, and it is designed for infrequent use. For such purposes, it is necessary to use a peorator
  • If the brushes are sparking strongly, it is necessary to replace them, without waiting until the tool stops to turn on at all

Still keep in mind when buying that drills can be for household and professional use. If you choose a cheap household variant, you should understand that such a tool is designed only for infrequent home use. Any repair in the house with a household drill will cause the tool to fail. If the drill is needed in order to make repairs at home, then choose only professional options.

To perform the repair of the drill with their own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing to approach the matter appropriately. search and troubleshooting start from small to large. Your power tool will last a very long time after being repaired properly.

| Denial of responsibility | Contacts |RSS