The red light flashes when charging my Makita electric electric electric screwdriver

Replacing the batteries in an electric electric screwdriver

My Makita electric electric screwdriver, which has been 5 years since I bought it, has lost its capacity in batteries. And there was a very pressing issue in buying new elements. But not just replace them with similar ones, but completely abandon Ni-Cd (toxic, low-capacity, with memory effect) for Li-ion. And so, let’s begin!

  • ZIPPY Compact 1300mAh 4S 25C Lipo Pack or Turnigy 1300mAh 4S 30C Lipo Pack or Turnigy 1300mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack (RU Warehouse)
  • OR better, cheaper and higher capacity in original 18650 batteries made by Samsung or LG, buy here: https://goo.gl/dwmqxE
  • XT60 Male/Female
  • DC-DC converter (DC-DC LM2596) buy here: https://goo.gl/C5mBKS
  • 4 Cell Charge Controller (YH11047A)? buy it here: https://goo.gl/RH0KxM

Battery

The Li-ion with 4 cells (3.7 volts each) in my case is best suited for this type of battery, which by the way is collapsible (with screws): 4 cells Li-ion output 14.8 volt capacity of 1000-1300 mAh. [blockquote author=Nesterov Kirill]In a similar article, the author uses a battery at 1000 mAh, in my case, the dimensions do not underestimate the capacity of the original battery 1300 mAh. If your design allows you to use a higher capacity battery, you can put even 5000 mAh, but how much current and how long will it take you to charge it.[/blockquote]

In my Makita electric screwdriver set I have 2 batteries of 1300 mAh each, which is convenient both when charging (quick full charge) and when replacing the battery with a new one. I do not use them that often, so one charge was always enough for the time of charging the spare. Batteries with no parallel cells (my personal dislike), only four in series. In fact, it can be seen on the labels:

The connection of these batteries is the same, both in terms of circuit and connectors. 5 pin connector for balancing (special charging mode, which does not allow charging the battery cell above its proper voltage, similarly controlling the discharge without allowing the voltage to drop below the allowable) and 2 pin connector for the main load.

Looking ahead, the batteries were not very good at discharging with 1054 mAh, this is not the fault of the protection circuit, as measurements were taken both with and without it:

Both the TURNIGY and the ZIPPY Compact 1000 mAh, they are not only similar in size but also in the quality of the wires and connectors and the color. Or maybe it’s the same thing with a different film and sticker. Don’t get me wrong, but 18650 type batteries from original manufacturers like Samsung, LG, Sanyo really give them the capacity they are supposed to, which I already thought after this test. Just do not take 18650 with built-in protection, because they limit the current, and the starting current and working electric screwdriver exceeds it many times.

But the batteries are bought and I continue to convert my electric electric screwdriver to a Li-ion power source. And our next step is to protect the batteries.

Charge controller for 4 cells

[blockquote author=Nesterov Kirill]This is a real photo of the circuit, there are several missing elements, I ordered from 2 different sellers, the absence of these elements in both cases.[/blockquote]

In a nutshell, this circuit is needed to protect 4 Li-ion cells assembled in one cell from low discharge, overcharge, high load currents. Actually this can be understood from the specifications:

  • Li-ion protection circuit for 4s (4 cells)
  • Operating temperatures:.40

Unfortunately I do not have the ability to check these characteristics for compliance, one thing is certain, the circuit was tested by me personally in the field and no problems were observed.

The circuit was taken from a Chinese seller, the arrow is written in Chinese:

[blockquote author=author unknown]自动激活/非自动激活选择: 贴0欧电阻时为自动激活. 拆掉0欧电阻时为非自动激活.

Google translate Automatic activation / non-automatic activation options: Automatically activated published 0 ohm resistor. The numbers are activated automatically when the 0 ohm resistor is removed.[/blockquote] This same board can also charge 3 cells / jars according to the circuit included below: Unfortunately I got a stripped circuit without that resistor and a group of other parts (as I wrote above from both sellers), I don’t know what they were responsible for, so I assembled the circuit as indicated by the seller for 4 cells.

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It is acceptable to use thin wires for the 5 pin connector, it all depends on your future charging current. Another thing is the main leads, to connect the load (P- and P), do not skimp on thick copper wires, in my case it is 2 conductors of 1.5 mm² each (multicore conductors, as they should bend easily), because they must be able to withstand currents of 20-30 Amp.

DC-DC converter

This is a simple DC-DC LM2596 Step-down Adjustable Power Supply Module CC-CV LED Driver, I used it for personal use before, as a stabilizer.

In the process of filling because I’m testing the original charger for compatibility with the new Li-ion battery.

Mounting in the original case

So I got to the point of replacing the battery pack of my Makita electric screwdriver. Unscrew the battery case and take out a block of Ni-Cd cells, the most difficult thing is to tear off the welded terminals without breaking the fragile plastic, which I failed, so I had to use super glue.

I did not disconnect the thermal and overcurrent protectors, nor did I remove their pins from the plastic. Connection made at once, here solder pins only (P- and P) because the rest solder to the connectors, for ease of future maintenance.

Since the connectors were put on the Ni-Cd cans, I had to fix them in the cover with the same superglue:

After a few minutes, we place the battery on the bottom of the case, connect the terminals to the sealing board and a small little touch piece of foam sponge, which avoids rattling when vibration of our tool.

So replacing the batteries in an electric electric screwdriver takes no more than one hour. The weight of the finished unit was 225 grams against the original Ni-Cd of 610 grams, now work with the tool was not just no fatigue and not even accustomed. I was frustrated by the fact that for not this money we get only 1000 mAh, not 2600 mAh if the original Samsung 18650 batteries were used. The operating time on a single charge is unrealistically long, so much so that I can’t even believe it myself!

In the process of filling because I’m testing the original charger for compatibility with the new Li-ion battery pack.

Battery charging light on the dashboard is designed to monitor the charging voltage of the alternator of the car. It is connected in series with the alternator field winding (on foreign cars until about 2007). в., and on VAZ cars. until now) from the terminal, that is, the alternator’s voltage regulator sees the voltage in the car’s onboard network through it. The light bulb lights up when the ignition is turned on and goes out when the engine is started.

How the light should behave when the engine is running

In the case of normal operation of the battery with the engine running, the light is off.

If the light does not come on or goes out when you start the engine, blinks, half-light, it is a sign that the battery is not charging. If you continue to drive, the car will stall after a while, and the electronic units may fail, the battery plates will begin to destroy.

Phone does not turn on and blinks when charging: Access denied | 240mm.240mm used Cloudflare to restrict access. Phone won’t turn on. Blinking screen when charging

Your phone blinks when you connect the charger and does not turn on. such symptoms are quite common, and in different models of smartphones. Naturally, and a single cause of such behavior of the device is not so easy to isolate.

The phone when charging blinks and does not turn on

It can be anything. from the problems with the phone battery to the typical system freeze, regardless of the preinstalled OS. Victims of such a malfunction are all popular smartphone brands, including:

Solving the problem

Let’s look at the possible causes of the problem and directly effective solutions. If you are completely ignorant about smartphones. follow each instruction in order.

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Full discharge

The first case. the phone blinks red because the battery is completely dead. It happens in cases when the owners abandon the smartphone in a “long box”, trying to bring it back to life after a few weeks / months.

The nature of the failure is simple. the battery is completely depleted of energy, which does not even allow you to elementary start the system. This provokes “indifference” to the power key.

To start, connect the phone and wait about an hour

The solution does not require you to complex manipulation. just leave the smartphone on the charger, literally for a few hours. After that it is recommended to press the power button for 10-15 seconds, as the system may not respond to normal startup attempts.

In my case, the totally dead Samsung Grand Prime would hang on charging for about an hour, after which it would come to life and charge. Therefore, this option should not be excluded.

How I Fixed My Faulty Makita Battery

Software failure

Important. this way only works if the phone is suddenly disconnected and fully/partially charged. Let’s use the “Hard Reset” of the Android system (Hard Reset), present in any modern smartphone:

  • Putting the phone into the Recovery Mode. In some models, the way of transition is different, by default you need to press the volume control, power and “Home” buttons (the middle one on the bottom in the front model). You can use a search engine to clarify the exact translation mechanism.
  • Hold the combination for up to 20 seconds, after which the software menu of the device appears.
  • Stop at “Wipe data/Factory reset.
  • Select “Yes” (delete all user data).
  • After that we find the item “reboot system now”.

After rebooting the problem should disappear. Note that all data will be erased and there may be problems logging in because of an unknown Google account error.

Power supply malfunction

It sounds funny, but sometimes it’s a broken socket that likes to fray the nerves of smartphone owners. try plugging the charger into another one, pre-testing the functionality with other home devices.

Another common case is damage to the USB cable or charger unit. Try changing the power itself. Pull the bends in the cable, blow out the plugs and sockets.

Separately check the capabilities of the power supply itself. it should have milliampere readings written on it. Your unit may not have enough speed to start your smartphone/tablet. By the way it is a very common problem with cheap Chinese devices.

Remove any debris, dust, and dirt from the connectors

Faulty battery

It is possible to check the condition of the battery only on devices with a removable cover. carefully remove it, take out the battery. Inspect it for bloating, obvious scratches, melted / burnt elements.

Be sure to check the battery for serviceability

If all is well. wipe with a damp cloth, also do not bypass the pins (protruding contacts). They must be level, otherwise do not correct anything yourself.

In the case of a non-removable battery, you need to use special applications. AccuBattery (checks the battery charge controller) and Battery. But they will be relevant after any power on.

Mechanical damages

  • Broken / dislocated trigger, which does not allow you to simply give a signal. The similar repair will cost you no more than 4 if the original button is saved.
  • Damaged USB cable jack. can be the result of careless handling, abruptly pulling the cable. Repair is also not a penny, you will spend in the area of 6-12 (depending on the model).
  • “Battery death” is one of the most unpleasant options. Repair of the battery is obviously useless, and in the case of buying a new one you sometimes have to wait up to a month for delivery.
  • Contacts inside the back cover are damaged, they are responsible for power transmission to the phone elements. It is difficult to estimate the cost of repair in this case, it all depends on the sadness of the situation, the model, the service center.

Your phone blinks red when charging and does not turn on. where to go?

We strongly recommend not to make repairs by yourself, disassembling inaccessible elements with the help of guides on the Internet. they are also made by professionals, who should be addressed with a similar problem.

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Even better. find a specialized repair department of your smartphone brand in your city. Yes, the repair at the company-manufacturer is often more expensive, but you get a guarantee of the quality of the work done.

light, charging, makita, electric, screwdriver

If the phone warranty has not expired yet, you can try to take the device to the appropriate electronics store. Of course, it will be repaired for free only in case of a factory defect and not intentional damage, but the attempt is not a torture.

We hope that this material has helped you to understand the situation when your phone blinks red while charging and does not turn on. most often our instructions help, the main thing is to do everything correctly!

Green and red. The green light is on when the charger is plugged in. A red light is on if you have connected the battery, which means that the battery is in the process of charging. Once the battery is charged, the charger shuts off.

To charge the tool, plug the included cable into a USB port on a computer or charger, and connect the other end to the port on the bottom of the battery pack. During charging, the LED will blink steadily. Indicator light will turn solid blue when charging is complete.

Screwdriver design and operation

It is easier to pinpoint and repair the problem if you know the design, construction, and operation of the tool. The screwdriver consists of the following components:

  • the start button with an electronic control unit. closes the electrical circuit, thus starting the electric motor, adjusts the speed of its spindle. a stronger push. higher revolutions and vice versa. A field-effect transistor is used as a regulator, which controls the resistance value of the conductive channel.
  • Electric motor. a single-phase collector DC electric motor, requiring minimal maintenance. Equipped with a stator in the form of magnets, an armature-rotor and current-carrying graphite brushes. A pinion is pressed on the shaft to transmit the torque to the gearbox.
  • Reverse button. reverses direction of chuck rotation, locks engine start.
  • Planetary gearbox is a complex mechanism represented by a number of gears with different configurations. Consists of a ring gear, sun gear and a row of satellites mounted on the driver’s axle. The torque is transmitted from the sun sprocket on the motor shaft to the satellites. They transmit the mechanical force to the ring gear. Gearbox reduces the high frequency rotation of the motor shaft, converting it into a low frequency rotation of the chuck. Two-stage or two-speed gearboxes are predominant on the market.
  • The torque regulator or ratchet controls the screwing force of the fasteners into the material. Shown by the toothed ball coupling and ball coupling halves supported by an adjustable spring.
  • Three-jaw quick-action chuck. used for holding accessories: bits, drills.

A pair of rechargeable batteries and a battery charger are usually included.

The general principle of operation is simple. When the start button is pressed the electric circuit of the screwdriver closes and power is transferred from the battery to the motor windings. Its spindle or armature shaft with a sun gear rotates to transmit torque to the satellites. They act on a stationary crown gear or epicyclic.

The armature shaft speed is controlled by a pulse-width modulated chip: the microcontroller controls the voltage applied to the drain of the field-effect transistor, which functions in key mode. The resistance value of the variable resistor is proportional to the force applied to the button.

The torque or screw driving force is set by the circular coupling. When the set force on the chuck is exceeded, the load adjustment mechanism is triggered: the spring force is not enough to hold the ring gear, and it slips off the balls. The motor shaft begins to rotate at no load, and the characteristic ratchet sound is audible.

Important! In drill or drilling mode, the ratchet is disabled.

Batteries provide from 9 to 24 V of supply voltage. Consists of 1 V battery packs connected in series.

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