To make a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw
DIY amateur sawing table
Good afternoon, everybody! While discussing one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, participants were asked to do a review of a sawing table that I work on. In this review, I’ll tell you how I hastily made a sawing table, from what I had, plus a little bit of the little things I bought. A detailed SketchUp model of the table with all the elements and components is attached to the review.
I had been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there was a tremendous amount of other stuff to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when I had a more or less calm winter last year, I came across a series of videos on homemade sawing tables and realized that this was something I needed to make.
In so many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and always against the background of fully equipped workshops with lots of machines, that sometimes you look at your own working conditions and doubt whether to take. In this review I will tell you how I made the table in fairly Spartan conditions, having in my hands a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and router (just here was the first time tried out the router, which was new in a box for three years).
I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap, but as it turned out, very reliable machine, which has stood and performed on the construction site so much work that it is time to put it on a pedestal, and in a prominent place in the studio. But since any tool must work until the end, she was offered a new place.
After the main stage of home construction, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and it was time to use it somewhere. At that time, I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the idea, as I see it, formed in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during implementation, my eyes ran through what was in the closet, the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, I did not do any modeling, but for this review I have transferred the desktop in a 3D model in SketchUp, tried to present all the components, the only thing I did not draw the nuts and screws, it was lazy, and I already thought more a waste of time, because already in principle it is clear and, if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, it is possible to remove the elements in layers, maybe someone will find this model useful for copying or as an idea for their realization.
So, I took a sheet of 21 mm plywood, marked and sawed out the base of the table with a circular saw. The dimensions of the table are big, but I wanted a universal table, on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated chipboard for cabinet making, etc.
Then I turned the received sheet over, marked it, put the circular saw with a raised disk on the sheet, outlined the contour of the saw sole with a pencil, and selected material in the received projection of the sole to a depth of about 12 mm using a router with a groove cutter. The base of the circular saw is then inserted into the recess obtained. Handle and blade guard must be removed from the saw beforehand.
On the contour of the sole of the saw in the sheet of the base of the table were made 4 holes for bolts M8. From the top of the base (back) were installed whisker nuts M8. The blade is set in the recess and clamped to the table base with bolts M8 through reinforced washers.
Then we loosen the mechanism of depth of cut adjustment of saw, put the saw into the socket and, pushing the saw, saw through the table base to the full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we got the disk. The most important point here is not to mix up the direction in which the saw should rotate when installing the saw in the recess (the disc from the side of the table working surface should rotate on itself), while I was trying it on, almost got mixed up, it’s good to notice in time. By the way, I used the saw in Sketchup model from 3D Warehouse and if you look at the photo of my table the drives of saws in SketchUp (Makita) and in reality (Hitachi) are mirror like, located on the different sides of the saw. I found only this saw model and left it, the main thing is the correct direction of rotation of the disk. Everyone’s saw is different anyway.
Already in this form on the table can be sawed:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I placed in the workshop one side on the shelf of a rack, the other on the back of a chair by the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line of the cut.I made the saw, took a long piece of aluminum angle (or a bar, or a flat board), placed it on the angle relative to the cutting line, fastened it to the table with clamps, and we had an improvised temporary parallel stop.
That’s how I went about sawing all the other parts of the table while it was slowly getting built.
First of all I decided to saw the saw blade guard for dust removal. For the first time in my life, I was able to get completely identical parts, like twin brothers, instantly, without fitting. The casing. four walls of 10mm plywood, the bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glue everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.
To connect the vacuum cleaner, I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box bimetallic drill under the sewer fitting 50 mm. To attach the fitting to the box, I cut the cut of the fitting into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated the sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then on each sector went small self-tapping screws, the gaps on the back side filled with hot melt glue. It is turned out firmly, and from a careless movement of the hose of the vacuum cleaner the fitting exactly will not tear from the case.
For fixing the box to the table I used 30×30 metal angle bars and 15×30 for the lock. Made of the cutted plywood plates 6 mm dremel flat eyelets, glued them to the table, they are inserted into the corners of the box. On the other side of the box with a metal plate and self-tapping screws made a kind of lock.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, try it. all the dust is inside, it won’t fly in the face.
We sawed longitudinal ribs on the table and glued them to the base with PVA and self-tapping screws. To the same ribs we will also attach the guide profiles of the parallel stop.
Since the surface of the future table should be smooth for normal sliding of materials and workpieces, and plywood FC 4/4 does not contribute to a normal sliding, I had to think of something with the coating. Generally for such tables usually use laminated plywood, but we only sell them in huge sheets, and the basic idea was to use the existing sheet of plywood. I found a large 4mm-thick pad of expanded PVC for my corporate advertising poster., Printed on one side only, respectively, the blank white back side is perfect as a facing material for the table.
I must admit that foamed PVC is not the best material for such purposes. I do not know how long it will last, but it leaves grooves and scratches from the sharp ends of the skipped parts. It’s not critical for now, and it may not be at all, you may have to change it in the future, or cover the top with a thin sheet of other material. In general a piece of plexiglass would do for this purpose, but it was not available.
For the future trolleys and pushers in the base of the table you must lay the rails made of aluminum profile channel 15x10x1. To install the base, the cross slots for the aluminum profiles were marked and made with a router with a slot cutter. Since the top of the table will be a 4 mm thick PVC sheet, the groove is accordingly 6 mm deep.
I cut the PVC sheet into three pieces, two pieces left and right of the profiles, and one piece between the profiles. When I put the profiles in the grooves, the following problem was revealed, or rather it is called a jamb. The sheet of the base of the table with a deflection! About 3 mm in the center of the sheet relative to the edges, I applied a meter steel ruler, everything is clearly visible. The sheet of plywood had stood for three years in the boiler room, upright against the wall, though it might have been crooked from the beginning. Out of spite, I took an angle grinder, a petal wheel and went outside to fix the deflection by removing the material on the edges. There was a bucket of dust. Took as much patience as I had, but the area is large. I decided to fix the rest of the sag as follows. Since fixing aluminum and PVC sheets planned to use liquid nails Moment MV-100, in the central part of the sheet and grooves, I made a larger portion of glue, with gaps for later shrinkage during leveling. Apply the adhesive evenly from the edges of the sheet. Then laid the aluminum profiles in the grooves on the glue, and then to the profiles of all three sheets. Took a long aluminum 40h40h2 angle and moving across the table began to align the height of the central part of the sheets and profiles relative to the edges. After passing the profile, checked the gap and the evenness of the sheets in the transverse, longitudinal and diagonal directions. everything worked. MV-100 hardens like a stone, so the performance and rigidity of the table was not lost.
Then it was necessary to make a parallel stop. As the main element of the support was used aluminum profile 40x40x2 (which I used for alignment earlier). To improve the rigidity and weight of the stop design, as well as for convenience of subsequent parts installation, it was decided to glue a wooden bar 30×30 into the profile. I also glued it with MoMENT MV-100. The other details of the stop I also made from the profile and glued double slats of plywood 40mm wide.
For the transverse movement and fixing of the stop we chose a system made of a C-shaped steel profile, an oak parquet board slider and a square washer on a long M8 bolt. The head of the bolt was ground well, a square thick molded washer (from the beam fasteners of cable tracks) had a recess, where the head of the bolt was sunk and planted on the two-component epoxy glue.
On the back side of the bolt, which goes through the transversal clamping element of the stop a round handle was installed with an M8 crown nut (I also made the handle out of plywood right on the saw blade)
A square washer with sliders turned on the C-profile, relative to which moves the design of the stop, when screwing the knob of the stop we press the square washer to the outer walls of the C-profile and fix the stop relative to the table. The square washer also prevents the bolt from turning in the profile when tightening the handle.
On the reverse side of the table also placed a C-profile, and wanted to make a similar system, but feared that the stop will be heavily wedged when moving, and I need fixing and the reverse side, too, I need flatness to the centerline on both sides, and with fixing only one point does not always work, where will be flat, and in some position and 2-3 mm, perhaps not ideal C-profile, although it looks flat. I came up with a much simpler design: at the bottom of the C-profile I placed a runner part, with a stud M8 fixed in it, and through the intermediate element and stop I drilled a hole and brought out the counter part of the stud, on which I planted another handle with an M8 bit nut. Now screwing the knob, I press the runner to the C-profile through the stud and thus fix the far part of the stop in relation to the table.
Here is how to work with stop:. I loosen both knobs on stop;. I move stop in needed direction;. I measure necessary distance from stop to axial line of cut at bottom part of stop with squaring square;. I fix lower part with knob;. I check distance from stop to axial line of cut at top part of stop;. I fix upper part with knob;. You may saw.
To work with parts and workpieces on the table a simple carriage and a small pusher with guide sliders were made.
The construction of the carriage and the pusher is made of laminated wood chipboard 16 mm, in the pusher still used aluminum profile 40x40x2. The sliders for the rails were made of oak, I cut thin slats from an oak parquet board. Glued the sliders to the carriages with PVA and extra self-tapping screws. To improve the sliding of the oak slider in the guide aluminum channel, I impregnate the oak laths with spray silicone grease, the wood absorbs it and perfectly travels in the profile without jamming.
The workshop room in the house is very small, so the table should be collapsible (no need. took it apart), and portable, so you can take it outside to work. That’s why it was decided to make the table legs in the form of removable vertical frames with struts. On the bottom of the table, in the form of plywood slats, I glued counterparts with M8 moustache nuts to fasten the frames of the posts to the table with bolts with washers.
For the electrical connection of the saw I installed right next to the saw a socket, it plugs in the regular mains plug of the saw. I connected the socket from the contactor, the contactor is controlled by the START/STOP button block, mounted on a separate plate on the front side of the table. Power to the contactor. a separate long cable to the socket in the wall. The trigger on the saw is fixed with a coupler.
To collect dust and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner I also use a home-made cyclone from a bucket, cover and sewer fittings:
What are the problems and what I plan to finish:
The table works very well, what happened to him to do. you can see in my other reviews. For non-professional use is quite enough. It was not difficult to make, fast, and the costs are small. Of course there are much more advanced designs, but they need more time and money. If there are additional questions/criticism/Комментарии и мнения владельцев/suggestions for improvement, I think it will be useful to all, as on mysku the Комментарии и мнения владельцев are a great treasure trove of knowledge.
To make a circular table with your own hands, you need to remember carpentry skills, have a lot of patience and a small number of materials and tools.
- plywood 15-20 millimeters;
- timber 50×50;
- external socket;
- a section of cable;
- PVA glue;
- self-tapping screws.
The volume of the table top will depend on the area of the workshop. At the same time it would be uncomfortable to saw large sections on a small table. If the part fits completely on the working plane, the cut is made more even and neater. The height of the legs is chosen according to the height of the craftsman.
This is one of the simplest universal variants of the guide for a manual circular saw, made by your own hands, and therefore it is most common in home workshops. Let’s consider in detail the process of its manufacture and principle of work.
To make such a rail, you will need three 10 mm thick pieces of plywood. Their length should be the same and is usually equal to the length of the workbench on which the work will be done. One of the pieces should be 25-35 cm wide (it will serve as a base), the width of the other two will be determined when making the busbar. Also prepare self-tapping wood screws size 16 mm.
Instructions for making
When making the rail, it is required to observe all dimensions very accurately. Slight deviations can cause a dramatic drop in performance. If desired, you can use laminate instead of plywood.
The plywood guide rail is made in several steps:
- measure the distance from the inside edge of the saw blade to the guide groove of the longitudinal cut on the tool’s support platform.
- Cut one of the plywood strips so that its width is 0.2-0.5 mm less than the distance you got in step.1. The fibers of the top veneer layer on the plywood must run lengthwise.
- Using self-tapping screws, screw the resulting strip to a wide strip of plywood (base), aligning their ends exactly. This will be the working edge of the busbar.
- Use a caliper to measure the width of the guide groove of the longitudinal cut.
- Screw the remaining strip of plywood to the base parallel to the first strip. There must be a gap between them, which should be 0,2-0,5 mm less than the width of the groove measured in the previous point.
- In order not to damage the material being sawed, a layer of soft cloth is glued to the finished guide on the underside.
Important: Before measuring the base of the circular saw, always disconnect it from the power supply!
The homemade guide is ready, all that’s left is to prepare the hand saw. To do this, cut a narrow strip of thick plywood or another material strong enough. The height of this strip should be 8-9 mm more than the depth of the guide slot on the saw’s sole. The width corresponds to the width of this groove. The length is a few centimeters longer than the length of the soleplate.
The resulting limiting strip must be inserted into the guide slot so that it projects over both sides of the sole.
How to use a plywood tire?
To make the cut you need two clamps and two flat wooden blocks slightly thicker than the workpiece. The guide bar is set with the ends on these bars so that its working edge slightly protrudes over the edge of the workbench top. In the places where the tire rests on the bars, it is tightly clamped to the workbench.
The workpiece to be cut, with the cutting line marked in advance with a pencil, is placed under the guide bar, and the cutting line is aligned with its working edge. Finally, the circular saw with the limiting strip fixed to it is set on the guide rail so that the limiter on the sole exactly enters into the prepared gap. Now you can saw, holding the workpiece with your free hand and lightly pressing the saw against the workbench.
Requirements for domestic circular saws
Wood circular saw Structurally, a homemade circular saw should not differ from the factory models. They consist of a table with a kerf in the center for the circular saw blade. In addition, the design includes measuring components, elements for fixing the workpiece and to ensure the safety of work.
Before making it, it is necessary to get acquainted with the basic requirements for its components. It is important that they fit together not only structurally, but also in terms of technical parameters. For this purpose it is possible to take the scheme of a typical construction of the factory woodworking machine.
Completion of woodworking sawing equipment:
- table. Must have sufficient stability, the surface of the table top. perfectly flat;
- power unit. The main parameters of the electric motor for disk rotation. power and number of revolutions;
- additional components. These include stops for fixing the wooden workpiece, rulers for measuring.
The advantage of homemade models is the possibility of choosing its dimensions, performance and other technical parameters. In the process of drawing up a scheme of manufacture you can choose the optimal height of the table, the size of the table top, the characteristics of the electric motor. The manual woodworking tool does not have these.
The requirements for woodworking disks depend directly on the parameters of the workpiece, the type of wood and the required productivity speed. This is calculated individually.
How to make a stationary or manual circular saw with your own hands
Circular saw, made by your own hands, an excellent tool to solve a large number of household and other tasks. In fact, it is not difficult to make this device yourself, even in the situation if you do not have any special skills, the most important thing is to understand at least a little bit the principle of processing metal alloys.
Materials necessary for work can be found in the home workshop or in the garage. So, a circular saw from a circular saw with their own hands is made of the following elements:
The finished circular saw can be placed on a workbench. If you do not have it, you will have to make the table yourself. The engine can be taken from an old power tiller or washing machine.
Step by step guide
Let’s look at the sequence of steps for converting a circular saw into a coping saw. The peculiarity of “parquet” is its characteristic course. It should be moved along the surface of the material to be cut, but not vertically. Therefore the machine will represent their base, which firstly, will allow to position and fix the workpiece, and secondly, it has a base with stops, along which the circular saw will move in the device (parquet).
Preparation of the base plate
The base of the circular saw is a rectangular sheet of thick plywood or chipboard that is not deformed. To the base will later be rigidly attached to the shelf for movement of the circular saw.
It is necessary to make a cut in the sheet of the base (in the table) for the free passage of the saw blade. The saw blade must completely cut the workpiece positioned on the table surface, so the saw teeth must go deeper than its surface, but at the same time the blade must rotate freely. It is even recommended to form a table of two sheets of particleboard or plywood attached to each other flat: then in the upper sheet you will need to make a through cross-slit for free movement of the saw blade.
Determining the height of the shelf for the crosscut
If the person working on the machine is right-handed, then the circular saw shelf should be positioned at the right edge of the table so that it is possible to clamp the workpiece to the table.
set the circular saw blade overhang to the maximum and measure the height above the table at which the cross travel shelf must be set so that the teeth of the circular saw blade do not touch the table. This measurement will actually determine the maximum thickness of the workpieces.
Designing the shelf
On the surface of the table in relation to the kerf, the pieces of chipboard or thick plywood should be secured by screwing them together to the previously measured height of the circular saw positioning.
It should be taken into account that at the very last level will go a layer of chipboard, which will form a shelf for the circular saw’s movement. So, when increasing the height, you should keep in mind the thickness of the last layer of particle board.
The driving shelf of the circular saw consists of two parts symmetrically arranged in relation to the cutting line for the free movement of the blade. Actually we should have 2 “bridges” set in parallel to each other through the space for the saw blade and the right edge of the table in the right part of the table.
Setting the stops
When the shelf for the circular saw is formed, it is necessary to position this very saw on it and mark so that the teeth of the disk hit the cutout under them, but at the same time not to touch anything. It is necessary to note the dimensions of the body on the shelves. precisely on these marks later it will be necessary to expose the limiters for circular saw movement.
These limiters should be made from scrap particleboard or thick plywood. They must be at least 5 cm wide. Their main feature. the most even edge, along which the circular saw will move. The limiters should be set so that the circular saw runs tightly and evenly along them, without any backlash.
To do this, it is advisable to expose them initially to the adhesive, and before it sets, to test the running of the facing tool. If everything is aligned correctly, the limiters (or guides) should be secured with self-tapping screws to the shelves. Since the guides have a width of 5 cm, it is advisable to take the width of the shelves at least 10 cm.
Aligning the guides for the workpieces
It should be a strip of particleboard or thick plywood, only here at least 10 cm wide, because it will have a much longer length. the guide should be 20% longer than the table, so that it is always possible to secure it with a clamp in two places. It is installed closer to the front edge of the table at the desired angle to the saw blade slot, and secured with clamps.
It is not necessary to fasten the guide rail to the self-tapping screws, because then you would lose the possibility of correcting the angle of cut if necessary. The workpiece guide must of course be one, as it is not possible to fasten the second guide in two places with a clamp. When working on such a trimmer, the workpiece should be pressed firmly against the pre-fixed guide with one hand, while the other (right hand) cut the workpiece with the circular saw.
Various accessories for the manual circular saw with their own hands to make the easy. One of them is an ordinary bar, which is inserted into the stop included in the kit. The standard stop does not allow you to saw wider parts, as it is designed for a certain width, which is different for each model. To be able to increase the gap, you need to insert a wooden part of the right width between the wall of the stop and push it into the sole.
It is possible to make a device for cutting grooves, which can be useful in the manufacture of furniture.
How To Make A Homemade Table Saw With Circular Saw
The circular saw can be adapted from a hand-held circular saw for sawing at an angle. Both additional parts are used, as well as the possibility of fixing the disk itself at the desired angle.
A simple tool for facing with a hand-held circular saw. It is possible to saw at a given angle.
The auxiliary piece “wedge” is suitable for the production of round pieces of wood for decorative purposes.
The end saw is used in construction to finish walls with wood, which is then covered with a varnish, leaving the cross-sectional structure of the tree visible.
To unnecessarily spend money on various devices for minor works, you can try to think through the solution yourself and create a working tool from available materials.
To equip the circular saw is suitable for old hand saws, possibly with a non-functional motor. You can construct a workstation according to any scheme. By selecting the parts by power, it is possible to saw materials of different widths and densities. With the help of additional devices you can organize a carpentry workshop and perform various operations without unnecessary costs.
It is recommended that you begin the work process by preparing everything you need. Stationary equipment is mounted on a solid and stable table. To make it you will need a sheet of sanded plywood of the required size, at least 20 mm thick. To make the legs of the table can be made of 4 bars, connected to each other with wooden or metal crosspieces.
In addition you will need a hand circular saw or an angle grinder.
It is also necessary to stock up on the following tools and materials:
- Electric screwdriver;
- 3-4 metal clamps;
- self-tapping screws and screws;
- 2 metal curtains of small size;
- 2 clamps;
- Sanded board, the length of which corresponds to the length of the table, and the height varies between 10-12 cm;
- pencil, long ruler.
All these can be found in a workshop or purchased inexpensively in any hardware store.
Which type of discs to buy?
Circular saw blade is the most important part of a circular saw, the working organ it is made for. All machine construction is attached to it, so we need to decide beforehand what kind of discs we are going to use in our work and how to choose the right one online according to the marking on it or in the description.
Types and naming systems of circular saw blades
The 2 most common types of designation are. According to the first (n. A pos. 1 in fig.) are marked consecutively:
- Disc diameter by tooth tips, mm;
- Width of cut, mm;
- diameter of mounting hole, mm. The standard (default) tolerance of 0.05 mm is not indicated;
- Non-typical fit tolerance (possibly);
- Number of teeth;
- The letter T or a pictogram indicates the presence of carbide tips on the teeth;
- rotational speed. operating (nominal) simply in numbers, maximum allowed with the prefix max.
For the second system, the following information is obligatory, separated by hyphens, for the blade size: diameter at the tooth flanks, number of teeth, fitting diameter (default tolerance is the same). E.g., 190-36-30 in item. B pos. 2 mean a disk with 190 mm diameter (the tops of the teeth would be 200) with 36 teeth for a 30 mm fit. The speed is indicated separately, but here it is the maximum default speed; the operating speed is 10% less. The other parameters are indicated either by a symbol (pos. B) or by a symbol (pos. C). B item. 2) or textually. Minimum rotational speed at which the proper cutting quality is still ensured, for certified discs with stabilizing slots (pos. 1, 2, 4, 5) 50% below the working diameter and for solid discs 25% below the working diameter.
There are quite good quality “off-system” discs for sale (pos. 3-5). But in all cases just “on wood” (pos. 2-4) stands for the corresponding TU of industrial wood, plywood, chipboard, laminate, etc. wood materials of sufficient quality. It is dangerous to cut raw, unseasoned wood with these discs because it can jam and break off. Special saw blades are available for cutting wild wood and are labeled Forest, pos. 5, Wildwood, Timber, Log, etc.п. discs with this designation are used in stationary pendulum saws, circular saws, etc. Sawing equipment for sawing raw wood.
Note: if you are going to saw metal with a circular saw, be careful. blades for steel and aluminum are not interchangeable. There are also universal saw blades for cutting any material, but they work roughly. Sawing with “universal wheels” laminate, laminated wood Particleboard, etc. laminated materials are not allowed. the coating will peel off.
Finally, there are a lot of unmarked circular saw blades on the market, pos. 6 in fig. In general, they cut, but you need to be careful with them: the linear speed of such a disc is better not to give more than 40 m/s. To get the rotation speed from it (to calculate the gear), measure the diameter of the disk at the base of the teeth D (in mm), and calculate its operating speed as 60(40,000/(3,1415xD)). e.g., The operating speed of a 200 mm “muddy” disc would be 3,815 rpm; it would be better to take 3,500.