Tools for inserting the lock into the interior door

Inserting locks into interior doors with your own hands: study from all sides

To install the latch or mortise the lock on the door is not so difficult. If you have a tool (you do not need anything very expensive or unusual) you can manage it in 30-40 minutes. And it is without any experience. How to insert the lock into the inner door and how to install the latch, and we will talk further.

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Tools for mortise locks and latches

Threading a lock into an interior door is not that difficult, but you will need tools for the job:

  • Drill with a 25 mm drill bit and/or a 22-23 mm feather drill bit (there are some lock items with smaller dimensions, so a 20 mm feather/tip may be necessary). This tool is used to cut holes for the lock in the door leaf.
  • Feather drill bit for 16 mm. to make a notch in the rib of the door and the mating part in the jamb.

It is better to work with a crown on a wooden door

It is not so expensive and rare tool. If you do not have a drill bit and bit bit, you can buy it at any hardware store or at the market. Since we will not drill in stone, it is not necessary to buy too expensive. ordinary drill bits or wood drill bits.

Finished set for mortising of locks into interior doors (wood): feather drill, bit holder, core

A few words about what is better. crown or feather drill. It’s easier and faster to cut a hole in the door for the lock with a drill bit, and it produces less chips. But it is not so convenient to work with a drill bit at the end, and the hole turns out to be larger than necessary. It takes a little longer to drill with a nib and there are more chips, but it’s easier to control the process. In general, there is not much difference, but most often you drill a hole in the leaf with a crown and at the end with a stylus. But you can use a pen drill everywhere.

Another point: the standard crown has a diameter of 25 mm, and for a lock you need a hole 22-23 mm. An extra 2 mm without problems overlapped by decorative overlays, but with a very narrow door, these extra millimeters can become critical.

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Peculiarities of installation work

In order to understand what tools you will need to install interior doors, you should understand the process of this work itself.

For the first experience installing interior doors can seem like a very dusty job. In fact, with the proper organization of labor and the use of auxiliary devices, the amount of dirt can be reduced to a minimum.

The entire process can be divided into several stages:

  • Removing the old construction. If necessary, the leaf is removed and the old frame is sawed out.
  • Installing the frame. After pre-assembly and adjustment, the new box is fixed in the opening. Then all the gaps are sealed.
  • Finishing the opening. The excess of the foam is cut off, the gaps are plastered and closed with trim strips. The linings are designed separately.
  • Installing the door and fittings. Hinges and the lock are inserted, and the cloth is hinged to the frame. Also fasten the handles and additional fittings.

The main stages of installation of interior doors

Necessary materials

In order to ensure that installation work was successful and did not take a long time, you must prepare in advance all the necessary materials and tools for the installation of doors. If we talk specifically about consumables, we can highlight the following:

  • Assembling foam. With its help, it fills the gap between the wall and the frame, as well as provides sound and thermal insulation, cushioning during changes in environmental conditions and reliable adhesion between materials.
  • Flat nails. Basically it is a way of frame details connection and fixing of architraves with minimal visual defects.
  • Puttying. Used to mask defects in the wall, as well as to create a protective layer for foamed joints.
  • Polyethylene tape. Needed for particularly difficult areas to be plastered, especially if they are hollows and wide joints.
  • Metal profile. Needed for creation of even corners in case of fillet finish.
  • Gypsum cardboard. Another material that allows you to arrange the slopes in the opening.
  • Wooden wedges. They are auxiliary materials for fixation of the box position, installed between the wall and the frame before the foaming gaps.
  • Spacers. Hold the frame in position while the assembly foam expands and dries.
  • Dowels. To be hammered into the wall to fix the fixing position.
  • Screws. The basic fixing element for installing door frames.
  • Glue. Allows for the fixing of trim and soffits without the use of nails.
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The list of materials, necessary for door installation

Customers can choose between two options for self-locking

With the models of locks decided, now let’s talk about how to install them yourself in the interior doors. But first let’s understand the tools, because in both cases we have the same set of tools.

The minimum set of tools

To install the lock in the inner door a lot of tools are not needed, plus all the tools are relatively inexpensive and often have such a set every home masters.

  • Electric drill;
  • Electric screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
  • A pair of chisels with 10mm and 20mm sting;
  • A tape measure and a pencil;
  • Knife;
  • Hammer;
  • Feather drill on wood on 23 mm, and better a set of feather drill bits 10. 25 mm;
  • Hammer for wood with 50 mm diameter and the adapter under the electric drill for this bit.

Installing locks in interior doors does not require a large number of expensive tools.

Option Install a light latch

We begin installation, as usual, with a marking. The distance from the bottom edge of the door leaf to the heart of the lock is 950 mm according to the rules. In office buildings, it is desirable to adhere to it, so that the fireman is not nervous, and at home you can put at any height.

The standard for interior doors is 950 mm.

It is often the case with such latches that the distance from the side edge of the leaf to the center of the mechanism is 60 mm. But it is better to specify this parameter in the instruction to the mechanism, because in different models the depth of incision can differ.

You can find the data on depth of insertion of the lock in its manual.

Now with the help of square or the same roulette we put the side mark to the center of door leaf end and make a mark.

It is easier to make a mark on the leaf end face with the help of square.

To drill a strictly horizontal flat hole on the mounted door, it is desirable to fix the leaf rigidly. It is easier to insert between the floor and the door leaf a pair of wedges on both sides. Then insert a feather drill bit (23 mm) into the drill and drill a horizontal hole along the length of the mechanism.

Be careful, the slightest twist to the right or left can cause the drill to go sideways and irreversibly ruin the blade.

The hole is drilled strictly horizontally in the center of the door leaf face.

To cut the hole on the face of the leaf we need a wood bit. Insert it into the drill and drill according to the marks. But first, do not drill all the way through, but only until the center bit comes out the other side. Then the bit is pulled out and the same is done on the opposite side.

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The moment of drilling out the leaf with the crown on both sides is very important, if you try to go through the whole leaf on one side, the exit of the crown can seriously damage the back side of the leaf.

Core cut in two steps on both sides.

Now you need to insert the lock into the end hole and outline the perimeter of the locking bar. Make sure that the slat is in a vertical position.

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The stock for the lock faceplate is cut out with a chisel. Make sure not to go too deep, often 1 to 1.5 mm is sufficient. If you have inadvertently chosen too deep a groove, you can put a piece of cardboard or paper under the bottom.

In order to fix the mechanism firmly it must be inserted into the hole and fixed with two self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws will fit much better if you pre-drill the entry points with an awl or drill holes with a fine drill bit.

The door handle should be inserted tightly.

Option Putting on the hardwired lock

We won’t tell you again about the marking technique of this type of lock, because any locks in the interior doors are installed at the same height. But it is not desirable to mortise the capital locks on the hangings, that is why you will need to remove the door leaf from the hinges and then put and fix it with the end upwards.

To embed the capital lock, it is better to remove the canvas from the overhangs.

The master lock has a rather large mechanism, unlike the latch. The groove under it we will choose with the same feather drill, to do this we need to mark the center line for the trimmer at the end of the blade. After that choose the feather drill according to the thickness of the lock and drill a row of holes to the depth of the lock.

The workpiece for the mortise of the lock is made with feather drill.

Then we take a pair of chisels and carefully cut everything unnecessary. The work is pretty monotonous and without experience can take up to an hour. Slowly the wide chisel is used to undercut the sides, and the narrow one is used to pick out the slivers.

The hole for the lock is selected with chisels.

When the hole is completely chosen, all you need to do is to choose the bed for the lock faceplate. The technology of picking is identical and we have already talked about it above. Then you screw the lock and insert handles and install the decorative trims.

Peculiarities of work with different materials

Before the process of cutting a hole in the door itself it is necessary to make all the necessary measurements carefully. You should also take into account the material of the door leaf. Such a necessity appears because of the peculiarities of door construction filling.

The easiest to work with is a door made of natural wood. But nowadays such products are not very common. It is also not too difficult to cut a hole for the lock on the panels with applied protective laminated layer. But for qualitative performance and to ensure the integrity of the door surface you need to use a drill with a special nozzle “crown”.

One of the most difficult doors to cut in the locking mechanism is a interior door made of wood-fibre board. When working with it, you should take into account that almost always manufacturers place an additional wooden bar inside such panels at a height of approximately 90 to 110 cm.

Assembly and adjustment

All that remains is to finally assemble the lock, adjust its operation if necessary, and finally secure all the fasteners. It is worth noting right away that you do not have to be overzealous with the fasteners, especially in those locks where the device parts are fastened to each other on different sides of the leaf. A heavy tightening of the screws can deform the body and make the locking mechanism hard to work, up to and including jamming.

Since the latch is already in place, you can insert the handles. The first thing to do is to install the handle with the fixing screws that must be unscrewed before installation. Then the handle is inserted with its square drive axis into the hole in the lock and into its own hole in the door leaf as far as it will go.

The other handle of modern models is often fixed to the cylindrical body and has a removable decorative bar. Firstly, the handle and the decorative strip have to be removed from the body by pushing in the catches, and only then the body is mounted into the corresponding hole in the leaf against the square steering axis of the opposite handle, is seated on this axis up to the stop. Then the fixing screws are inserted into the holes and used to fasten the two sides of the handles together.

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Now we only need to put back the decorative strip and handle, having sunk the clamps onto the casing. They are screwed into the housing until the clamps, which have come out of their recesses in the fastening grooves of these elements, engage.

The assembly of the locking device is finished, and you need to adjust the free movement of the lock mechanism and its smooth operation. This can be checked by turning the handle. It should move smoothly and easily and after releasing it should immediately return in place. In the case of heavy stroking or sticking, the fixing screws must be loosened slightly. On the contrary, if there is any extraneous noise and backlash in the mechanism, the fixing screws should be screwed in deeper.

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Checking of operation

After adjusting the locking mechanism, check the function of the system as a whole. To do this you need to close the door and check the correct installation of the striker. If there is a slight play of the latch in the strip or, on the contrary, a millimeter displacement of the hole relative to the latch, it can be eliminated by bending or undermining the adjusting plates of the back plate hole.

If the lock works properly, there should be no backlash between the latch and the striker, the door closes tightly, the lock works easily, and without unnecessary noise.

How to correctly insert a lock into the inner door, you will learn in this video.

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Installing the edge trim on the door.

90 degree angle and 45 degree angle. If you do not have a mitre saw or at least a mitre saw, it is better to use the 90 degree angle variant.

  • Put the casing on the frame so that it is flush with the hinges. That is how we define the distance between the architrave and the edge of the frame. This gap should be maintained on all sides of the frame.

In the photo you can see the gap between the casing and the edge of the door frame.

  • Measuring the necessary length of the architrave. For this purpose the second casing or a scrap of it is attached from above to the installed casing. Take into account a gap between the frame and the architrave. We mark the necessary length of the trim with a pencil.

Determine the length of the side trim.

  • Cut the trim to the required size.
  • Put the side trim in place and drill a hole in it. The diameter of the hole should be a little less than that of the nails.

Drill a hole.

tools, inserting, lock, interior, door
  • Nail the architrave to one nail. Do not nail up to the end since you might need to adjust the position of the architrave so it will be easy to pull out the nail.
  • Put the second side trim, determine its length and cut it to the necessary size.
  • Nail the second trim the same way as the previous one.
  • Put on the upper trim and mark its length.

Mark the length of the top rim.

  • Cut the upper flashing to the necessary length and nail it in place.
  • Drill holes in the trim and nail it. nail the upper slat with three nails and the side ones with five nails. Nails to be nailed from top to bottom.

Drilling holes.

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