Tools for removing siding with your own hands

How to disassemble or repair the vinyl siding ?

Self-replacement siding (with their own hands) can save you not only a lot of money, but also nerves from the incorrect or illiterate work of the masters on its installation. In this article we will mainly consider issues on repair of siding already installed, associated with the transfer or replacement of windows, doors, color of the material itself. There is nothing easier than reconstructing siding that has already been installed and we’ll talk about that below.

And so, in order for us to rebuild or replace the siding already installed, we will need a couple of specific tools. First is the so-called siding-zip (siding unpacker), which you can try to find ready-made, which is unlikely. It is easier to make it yourself from a handy piece of platinum metal thickness of 3-5mm. The tool and its use will be considered below in the pictures. We’ll break down not only how to use the tool to disassemble the finished wall without too much effort, but also break down the assembled layer. Working with vinyl siding does not require any special skills, the main thing is to understand the system of construction.

So, we take a few plans above the window or door and begin to remove them. Note that the nailer should be used with a wide foot to prevent crushing the insulation and bursting the membrane windshield, which is supposed to be under each cover of this type if it was mounted correctly. Take the ZIP tool and begin to undo one of the previously installed slats from below. After dismantling do not forget to mark the fishing line of its location on the membrane, it will be useful for accurate reassembly after reassembly.

The beauty of vinyl is that you can remove some of it anywhere on the wall or foundation without much force. The work can be managed by one person without help from other people. As shown, hook the edge of the siding with a ZIP tool by slipping it into the fastener seam and pushing upward to engage. Next, pull down lightly, gently opening the lock. If the siding is newly installed, it will be soft and flexible. Older versions lose their elasticity over time and can become brittle. In the latter case, be careful with shrunken vinyl. After a partial opening of the vinyl lock it can be finally opened with the fingers of the hand lengthwise, kicking out the remainder of the lock. The system is unbuttoned, you can begin dismantling the siding strips. Remove the mounting nails from the bottom slat. As mentioned above, the nail gun should have a wide foot!

Repairing siding with their own hands without special tools

Finished! Then you can remove the necessary number of strips of material for further replacement or installation under the new openings of windows and doors. Reassembly is done in reverse order, taking into account the reconciliation of the mounting lines, which we noted at the time of dismantling.

The next steps are described in these articles:

Tools for Siding Installation

One significant advantage when choosing siding for cladding facades, as noted by many homeowners, is the ease of installation. Siding installation does not require special skills, such as plastering the facade, and available to anyone who has once held a tool in his life. The main thing is the exact following of the installation technology. Many major siding manufacturers write detailed instructions that can be found at point of sale, or in the siding package.

See also  Air pressure regulator for the compressor with his hands

Before proceeding to the installation of siding, the first thing we need apart from technology and installation instructions, is a tool with which we will create a beautiful facade of the house.

How to decorate the house with siding. all stages of work

Siding. a large group of facade finishing materials, the name of which comes from the wooden boards fixed to the wall in a certain way. The principle of cladding the house with siding was borrowed from the roof, when the upper element overhangs the lower one. Thanks to this, the basic materials have been protected from weathering, burning in the sun, and most importantly. from getting wet. Rainwater was able to run off over the panels without getting into the wall. Siding is now used in curtain wall facades and to insulate the house.

When installing the siding, experts adhere to the instructions:

  • Preparing the material.
  • Purchase of accessories for installation.
  • Designing, marking.
  • Installing the grid.
  • Preparation of the base.
  • Fixing the rails.
  • Mounting the profile under the siding.
  • Installing the corners.
  • Trim around the windows.
  • Framing to your liking.
  • Mounting the panels.
  • Gable trim.
  • Passing places under the roof.
  • Final assessment.

Let’s mount purlins

When installing siding, everything is held in place by the material, so it is recommended to do in good faith. Available well-known and little popular materials, each of which has its own advantages. For fasteners, the condition of the surface is taken into account. In general, you can distinguish the following main stages of work:

The first step. choose the material

On the material for a residential home choosing between metal, wood. The easiest way to buy bars of the required thickness, but the metal has its own characteristics. Durability is taken into account, plus it is suitable for drywall, but it affects the thermal conductivity. For a tree it is not obligatory to use a thermal insulator. Metal is considered durable, but over time it will catch up with corrosion.

To fend off this disaster, materials with a galvanized surface are used. If we consider large residential buildings, it is foolish to hope that you can find timbers of a perfectly flat shape. With any change in temperature, the wood leads in an unknown direction, and in places warps to a great extent. According to the laws of physics, even a small bar, when the humidity increases, twists like a drill. Metal, in turn, is ideal in any situation.

The second step. prepare the base

Regardless of the square footage of the building, you will have to start with the corners. The bars or profiles are fixed in a vertical position and checked with a spirit level. Next, a cord is stretched between the workpieces, you can use an ordinary thread. This is the easiest option, there is no need to install a laser level on the wall.

When installing purlins, the pitch of each section plays a big role. Many people are guided by the squareness, but other factors will have to be taken into account:

Also at this stage are prepared platbands, gutters.

The third stage. installing the rails

When the siding is mounted from the top down, the bars are laid horizontally. Wooden workpieces are better fixed with self-tapping screws. As additional fasteners used nails. Considering the concrete construction, you can not do without pre-drilling holes and further installation of dowels.

Mounting J-profiles

To prevent the panels from warping during the work, you must install the profiles according to the level. To do this, it is recommended to follow the instructions for dummies:

  • Marking of purlins.
  • Fastening the self-tapping screws.
  • Mark the whole perimeter.
  • Checking the level.
  • Fixing the starter rail.
  • Checking the gap.

The profile must not rest against the corner, you must maintain an indentation of 6 mm. If, when fixing the dowel bar is skewed, it is necessary to remove the fastener, make a re-assembly. In the future it will not be possible to correct the position of the element, it is worth rechecking in advance.

When fixing the outer corner profiles, the instructions must be observed:

The slightest deviation is inadmissible, the distance between the clips about 400 mm, offset from the edge of 6 mm. In stores the profile is sold in various lengths, and when you overlap the elements minimum overlap is 9 mm. To work with blanks, electric saw with high torque is used.

See also  How much oil to fill the gearbox of a cultivator

Important! If a professional tool is not available, metal scissors are useful, in the extreme case a hacksaw with fine teeth is used.

Mounting internal corner profiles

The technology of fixing the inner corner profile may be different. We use a workpiece length of 1 meter, and the elements are installed overlapping. It is necessary to provide a ledge in the upper part, which is attached first. Totally 3 popular variants of profile installation are known:

10 mm distance between the strips, fixing is performed from the upper workpiece.

Let’s mount the framing of openings

If the house has many windows, doors, the novice craftsman can get confused. To do it right, it is important to follow the plan:

If there are problems with the trim, you will have to carefully remove the excess material. Initially notches are made, then the workpiece is bent little by little. If there is a deformation of the material, the elements will not dock together. The profile must fit tightly to the bridge, no warping is allowed. If you consider wide frames, the bridge has to bend back.

Openings in the same plane as the facade

As with trim, near window profiles like precision. The first step is to estimate the depth of the opening, then prepare the bridge. The specialist must understand the finishing elements to prevent moisture from entering the surface. When the opening is at the same level as the facade, the slope is not needed.

How to Replace Damaged Vinyl Siding

Openings are sunk into the façade

To make a slope with your own hands, you make measurements, prepare bridges. At hand should be all the finishing elements, at the end of the work is fixed profile.

Install the first panel

Siding installation begins from the back wall of the house. Various surprises are possible, it is important to be prepared for the worst case scenario.

When fixing the panel to the crate, one assesses the technological indent. The parameter depends on the ambient temperature, in the summer it is less than 6 mm, and in winter the panel is set to 9 mm.

Panel lengthening

If you are not using H-profile, the panels are laid overlapping. This method is considered simpler because there is no need to check the locks. Minimum top indentation from soffit 0.3 cm (the panel is laid with an overlap of 3 cm). Allow a large indentation from below, taking into account the distance from the rails.

Install the remaining siding

According to the technology is cladding the entire house, the level recommends taking after installing 2-3 rows of siding. To avoid fiddling with the edges for a long time, it is recommended to shorten the panels beforehand.

Interesting! In order to align the lining on the plane used by the finish profile.

Mounting under the roof

Only J-profile is suitable for the wall, and when the installation is carried out, the experts act according to plan:

  • Measuring distance between panels.
  • Marking for the finishing elements.
  • Calculating the indentation at the top and bottom.
  • Getting the siding ready.
  • Notches on panel.
  • Checking cleats.
  • Fixing the siding.

Mounting the gable

Gables can be of different forms, but they are trimmed starting from the perimeter. Necessary fasteners are installed in the central part, the starting profiles are fixed to the level, the internal corners are checked. As in the case of the wall panels, different installation techniques are available.

To speed up the process of installing the siding, it is recommended to prune the elements in advance. Most often difficulties arise precisely with the locks, because the indentation is not respected (at least 6 mm). If the last panel does not become, then the level is floating, you have to redo everything.

Repairs to siding panels

Undoubtedly, this finishing material is relatively strong and durable. But even the best panels sometimes need repair. For example, you can accidentally damage the siding or it happens that he “melted” in the sun. Consider the major cases and their solutions.

Let’s repair a corner profile

The corners of the siding panels are often damaged in the front part. You don’t have to dismantle the whole trim to make repairs.

  • The front trim of the damaged panel should be cut so as to save the nailing part and the bottom of the receiving gutter.
  • Take a new siding panel and cut the nailing strip off it.
  • The new part is attached to the strip with rivets (vinyl or kapron). Distinguish the H-and J-profiles, which are repaired similarly.
See also  Single axle tractor with PTO agro

As you can see, it is enough to make a small replacement, which is easy to perform one.

Workers installing siding on a house

We repair the swollen area

It is not uncommon for homes to start trimmed before the walls and foundation have finished shrinking. Final shrinkage is a time-consuming process that most builders don’t have. So the workers finish the job and take on a new, and installed at this stage, the panel is simply faster deformed.

Specifically, individual siding sheets begin to bulge. Often this is observed at the junction of a brick wall with a wooden attic. The fact that the two materials shrink differently, and the finish can sag.

To repair the siding on the house, on which the sheets have bulged, you need:

  • With a mounting hook to detach the panel from the castle.
  • Straighten out the deformed area.
  • Insert the steel starter strip into the gap in the wall. To lay it correctly, right on it mark the distance between the lock of the lower part and the hook of the removed panel. In short, a spacer is placed between the locking mechanism, which will prevent further deformation of the panel.
  • Set the aligned sheet back.

The procedure is as simple as replacing a sheet.

Cutting tools. efficiency analysis when working with siding

Experts recommend cutting plastic with the same tools that are used to cut metal products. So we will deal with them in relation to each type of panel.

This tool is mentioned in all instructions for installing siding. They say that before you cut the vinyl or metal siding, on it along the marked line to lay a flat lath and a few times with pressure to spend it along the edge of the knife. And then break the panel along the groove that is formed.

These conditions can only be met on a flat plane, pressing the panel to a solid base. The curved topography of the siding will not make a neat cut across the panel, it will be especially difficult to cut through the material in the castle area. Therefore, the knife can be used only for a longitudinal cut and on condition that the marking does not fall on the crest of the wave.

Metal hacksaw

A hacksaw or saw with a very fine tooth is only suitable for cross-cutting because of the short length of the working blade. Too many disadvantages for this tool, making it impossible to use it for large amounts of work.

  • Low speed and high labor intensity of cutting.
  • Difficulty in cutting panels longitudinally and at an angle.
  • The impossibility of making shaped cutouts.
  • The flexible blade tilts to the side in curves and multilayered areas.
  • Cut plastic siding can only be done in plus temperature.

When choosing what to cut the metal siding, a metal hacksaw can be kept in mind, but all cuts should be hidden dodorov, as they do not have too smooth and neat appearance.

Metal scissors

Like other hand tools, scissors can not be used when working with plastic in the cold season, as when cutting they can crack the material. And this is not the only condition for a good result. It is also recommended in the manual to choose scissors with minimum thickness of cutting parts and not to let them close completely.

The last condition is easily achievable on flat single-layered sections, but when cutting an S-lock, you have to apply a lot of force, as a result of which the blades by inertia close, and in front of them a crack is formed.

The quality of the tool. its sharpness, absence of backlash between the cutting blades, comfortable handles. is also of great importance.

| Denial of responsibility | Contacts |RSS