Trimming saw with a broach with his hands

Trimmer with a broach with his hands. Professional and homemade wood mitre saws. The final stage of works. we put a cutting disc, a protective cover and a limiting strip

We put a marking on the chipboard for different angles of facing and screw in screws according to the marks. The swivel mechanism is placed on the rotary axis of the auto-wheel (pin), it is supported by the bearing of 0.15 m diameter or more. Fit the rotating half-circle with grooves.

On the outer side of the bearing we attach the ears to hold it on the base with the screws M6. Let’s put a latch with a thumbturn on the side.

We make pulling from non-working shock absorbers. Oil is poured out of them, ventilation holes are drilled, which must be protected from small particles. In order to avoid jerking when starting, it is necessary to install a soft starter on the saw, which will slightly reduce the speed. Installing the working bed with a slit cut for the saw.

The last stage of the activity is the installation of the blade guard. And on the bottom we screw the guide rail.

  • It is too noisy;
  • To control the wood kerf use wood scraps, then the pull is set precisely, and then already sawed clean.

You can make a tool from a circular saw in a similar way.

Of course, when there is a work experience, and you do not want to invest a lot of money in the purchase, you can make such a machine by yourself. When purchasing a saw for it, take into account:

  • Buy a device with protection, which must cover the disk not only in peace, but also during work.
  • Match the weight and dimensions of the device to your own goals. It will be more difficult to work with a three-dimensional saw, you will be tired after half an hour of work.
  • Ensure that the saw is comfortable to operate.
  • Observe the blade diameter (no more than the 0.2 m mark). Consider the size of the cut. if you are cutting voluminous parts you should choose a larger size.
  • Make sure that the rotary unit and the bed are of good quality.

Whether you choose to buy the factory version or build your own saw, it should be easy to work with and the result should be of high quality.

Materials and tools

The easiest way to make a homemade cutting machine from the angle grinder and grinders that can use circles of different diameters. Choosing the used angle grinder, it is necessary to remember that models that can work with discs with a diameter greater than 150 millimeters, are versatile in use, and such a machine will cope with the processing of various sized lumber. Optimal power output angular grinder is 800 watts or more.

Base and mounting bracket are made of metal angle bars, which are welded or riveted on the base. The quality of fixation of the angle grinder should be paid proper attention, because later during the processing of materials it is on the available mount has an increased load, which can lead to breakdowns pendulum mechanism.

Advantages

Today no one is surprised by a crosscut saw. There are a lot of modifications, from branded to cheap Chinese, with a longitudinal and angular cuts in the market. However, their cost is sometimes off the charts and their accuracy is not always what they claim to be. Is it possible to do without the purchase of specialized tools, you ask.

The installation that we offer proves that a crosscut saw with a longitudinal cut can also be made at home. Assembly costs are minimal. In addition, the drill on the basis of which our face cutter is made, can also be used for its intended purpose.

When a tool (and even more so a machine tool) is self-made, its design, as a rule, takes into account the needs and tasks that are supposed to solve with its help:

  • To have molded details in the cutting would not be burrs and fractures, it is necessary that the circular saw had adjustable speed relative to the cut plane (so burrs were removed cutting edges of the saw teeth);
  • Let us suppose that it is not necessary to make usual cross-end trimming of molded strips, but it is necessary to make it at a certain angle. In this case, it is necessary that the workpiece should be fixed in-avoidance of backlash during cutting;
  • and, of course, the price. Trimming machine can be assembled literally from the materials at hand, in fact, from such parts that can not be used anywhere else. Cost-effectiveness is a decisive advantage?
  • Making a tool with their own hands saves money. For example, to refine the angle grinder spent about 500. The cost of a homemade table and sawing mechanism is affordable to most craftsmen;
  • the basic parameters: the depth of cut, rotation frequency, disk diameter, motor power, the size of the table, are selected according to their own needs;
  • having assembled the tool with their own hands, the master will easily find the cause of the problem and eliminate it.
  • The service life of the tool depends on the quality of the original materials, and homemade tools are usually assembled from all kinds of junk;
  • Trimmers home-made are rarely powerful enough. After all, for the qualitative work of the equipment requires a careful selection of parts;
  • Sometimes the money saved on the purchase of a factory tool is spent on repairs and modifications of a homemade tool;
  • craftsmen often save on their safety by not equipping the table and saw with safety devices;
  • Factory-made saws are equipped with a graduated scale that precisely indicates the angle at which the wood is cut. It is difficult to build such a tool on a home-made machine.
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Circular saw

When it is difficult to purchase such a tool due to lack of finances, it can be made by one’s own hand.

The circular saw is used to cut a hole in a sheet of steel, and its ends are processed with a file.

No need for a particularly powerful electric motor to operate the tool, 0.9 kW is sufficient. It is mounted on the base with an additional spring that serves as a stabilizer. It is necessary to attach a handle to rotate the unit, as a result, you will achieve a gradual movement of the saw. Characteristics are as follows:

This allows with the help of a tool made by hand, it is easy to process wood thicknesses up to 0.07 m. Take care of the adjustable props and supports. For pendulum risers, take a channel, mounted on a base of metal. As a result, our tool will become stronger and heavier, but crosscutting work thanks to it will be carried out with ease. You can take a three-phase electric motor (2.3 kW) and a hinged oscillating plate.

Put the belt on the motor pulley. The pendulum can be attached to the base of the frame material. For comfortable work with wood, the diameter of the saw must be 0.42 m, and the rotation speed. from 2800 rpm./min. Cut a slot for the blade.

As we can see, a quality tool is possible not only to buy, but also to make their own hands. Here’s what we got:

Cutting from different scrap metal

This is a rather heavy facing saw on a stationary metal table. To operate it, you will have to exert some effort. But as a result, the saw mechanism moves smoothly, without jerks, facing with their own hands is easy.

Materials and tools needed for assembly:

  • electric motor with power of 900 W;
  • metal sheet;
  • Metal angle bar;
  • channel
  • hinge group;
  • powerful spring;
  • angle grinder;
  • welding machine;
  • file.

The frame is made of adjustable legs, metal angle bars and poles from an old bed. The working surface. a metal sheet as the surface of the table, in which we cut a hole, the edges with our own hands we process with a file.

  • Pendulum support for the saw is welded from a channel set on a sheet of metal, its height is about 80 cm.
  • Stand for the electric motor is made in the form of a movable metal plate mounted on hinges. When mounting an electric motor, use a spring as a stabilizer. Then you can do without the pendulum and belts.
  • The tension belts are adjusted by the usual hinged bolt; the pendulum for the mechanism is also made of metal.
  • Disc diameter of 420 mm is installed as a cutting tool on the facing machine.

Pendulum saw is a rather dangerous equipment, assembling it with your own hands, you need to take care of protective boxes and guards. After all, the error rate of a homemade machine is much higher than that of a factory one.

Real swingarms

How a “true pendulum” metal cutting machine is set up is shown in Fig.The oscillating “pendulum” is color coded.

Design of pendulum metal cutting machine

trimming, broach, hands

“The key feature of the design is the rocker arm balanced by the weight of the motor so that the idle feed force (without cutting) over the entire length of the stroke is approx. uniform and amounted to approx. 5 N (about 0.5 kgf). It is this “idle” force that allows an experienced machine operator to have the best feel for the material and to work at maximum machine capacity without accumulating fatigue, literally in a playful way. If, however, a dangerous situation occurs and the feed knob is thrown by the worker, the inertia of the motor and the rocker arms provide a smooth rebound of the disk. The chances of a dangerous situation turning into an emergency situation and a cutting tool damage are much less, and the workpiece is often left undamaged. look what’s wrong, correct it, finish cutting.

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Note: a return spring of the rocker arm in balanced pendulum cut-off machines is almost always present, but it almost never plays the role of a breakaway spring (see below). Further on it practically does not play any role, it only gives the initial shock to the heavy rocker if the disk is “jammed”. The most common use of a return spring in this type of machine tool is to adjust the idle feed force “under yourself.

Examples of home-built machines

The most complicated assembly unit of the design shown above is the rotary table with angle divider; it is impossible to make it “on the knee” at home. Cutting at a specified angle with all the constructions described below is done by turning and fixing the whole machine relative to the table (workbench) for workpieces with a longitudinal stop (or vice versa, the workbench relative to the machine). The cutting machines are easier to use, see the following. further.

The appearance and drawings of the basic details of the most universal self-made cutting machine are given on the trail. Fig.

Appearance and drawings of basic details of universal self-made cutting machine

This machine is mobile: it can be hand-carried within the area and carried in the trunk of a car. This can be a valuable quality, e.g. for., during assembly/disassembly/repair of pipes on site. Motor power per shaft (cf. further) 1,2-1,5 kW. Disc speed 2500-2900 min-1; disc diameter up to 350 mm.

For those who are still confused about tolerances and fits, see also fig. the conditions for matching the adjacent dimensions are given; dimensions D32 are matched according to the rule for D15. To get the desired alignment (centering) of shaft journals for bearings (D20-0.03) on a lathe of normal accuracy, they need to be turned clean in one setup and one cutter pass (the feed is minimal, it’s not a dross pick).

trimming, broach, hands

rocker in this case. a sheet of steel S4, reinforced crest of a tube D30; its bend. the lever feed. The rocker arm can be frame-mounted, made of 30x30x2 steel tubing. Its span (length) is not critical within the range 400-500 mm. There is no return spring (it is possible to put one). The rocker arm up deflection is set by moving its “tail” backwards from the hinge (see: order: D2). below).

The bearing shells of the operating shaft mirrors the holes D21 to each other. Such method of installation in informal design jargon is called “butt to butt” (softened in the publicly available publication). Here it allows to exclude longitudinal displacement of the shaft in the bearings without additional structural elements, i.e.к. the cups of the bearing shells are covered on the right by the pulley plate and on the left by the trailing sheave. Assembly of the operating shaft assembly on the rocker arm is done as follows. order:

  • Bearings are inserted into prepared cages (with brackets welded and trimmed to the plane);
  • the cage with the bearings are put on the shaft as indicated above;
  • put the idler pulley on the long D15 shank (left on the drawing);
  • the spacer is put on top of the pulley on the same shank;
  • the pulley through the spacer is tightened tightly with the nut M14;
  • the shaft with bearings and sheave is placed on the rocker and temporarily clamped to it by the middle with a clamp (not too tight)!);
  • the bearing shells are also temporarily braced with wooden splinters;
  • the shaft is aligned exactly parallel to the leading edge of the rocker arm: its upward projections should be tangential to the bearing rims. Use two locksmith’s squares at the same time!
  • quickly weld the thrust collar brackets using a tack tack tackifier. Current. not more than 60-80A;
  • Remove the clamp and spacers and check that the shaft rotates easily. It sticks. cut off the clips on the weld and repeat np. 6-10;
  • the bearing brackets are finally welded on. Weld with short stitches alternately right-left;
  • let the assembly cool down completely and check again the shaft rotation. Clicks, jams. alas, overheated during welding. Hands still need to grow, and the rims will have to make (order) anew. Probably change the bearings too;
  • the shaft rotates easily, smoothly. it covers the bearing unit with a light shroud from chips and dross.

rocker arm pivot is assembled similarly, but with “butt to butt” (with cups of clips inside) and also covered with light dust cover. The hinge pin is a piece of round bar D(21 45), which is on hand. At the ends are turned bearing journals, the same as on the working shaft, and shanks M14 length from 40 mm. Bed. from profiled pipes, angles from 40×40 and so on.п. of metal junk at hand. The hinge is mounted in the lugs of its supports with pairs of nuts (inside and outside). Another option to assemble the rocker arm pivot. its bearing shells are welded to the flat frame along with the axle, as shown in pic. The bevel is then welded to the hinge axle or fastened to it with threaded hardware. But it is much harder to center the joint in this way, and more difficult to protect its bearings from dust.

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The drive pulley of the motor should be made/sized so that the speed of the disc is close to the nominal. The starting scheme of the engine is assembled in advance on the left (looking from the shaft side) rotation, “sparks from myself. In this case, the recoil of the cutting force will tighten the nuts of the pulleys and the disk; they will be firmly held by friction, keys, cotter pins, etc.п. no additional “inconvenient” technological fixings are needed.

Advantages and disadvantages of self-made crosscut saws

  • The service life of the tool depends on the quality of the original materials, and self-made tools are usually assembled from all kinds of junk;
  • Home-made trimmers are rarely powerful enough. After all, careful selection of parts is necessary for the quality of the equipment;
  • Sometimes the money saved on the purchase of factory tools, spent on repairs and modifications homemade;
  • craftsmen often save on their safety by not equipping the table and saw with safety devices;
  • Factory-made saws have a graduated scale that accurately indicates the angle at which the wood is cut. On a home device is difficult to build such a mechanism.

A few more handy and interesting homemade, including an excellent stationary, mobile and made in a couple of minutes from a few plywood and screws:

Crosscut saw with broach with your own hands

A short story about how to assemble a crosscut saw with broach with his own hands from the angle grinder using used materials and common tools. I think it will be relevant, because proprietary edger with broach is not cheap, and now the in general are biting.

First characteristics of the home-made crosscutting monster:- RPM of the circular saw is a little less than standard for the angle grinder. 4,5 thousand.- Cutting length is 350 mm. (this is gratifying t. к. The cutting capacity of a saw is much greater than that of an ordinary not expensive crosscut saw, e.g. a Makita with its 150 mm.)- weight is not great, thanks to the use of plywood

There are other advantages:. the angle grinder can be easily removed and used separately from the base as a regular grinder for other materials.- the machine is completely demountable and mobile, we can say it claims to be universal.

In terms of cost, modification was not expensive. for the entire homemade saw (not counting the old angle grinder) took 500.

Advantages listed above, now you need a little criticism:. the accuracy of cuts have to pick up during test runs on the throw bars, then the rod is firmly fixed and done finishing sawing.- The unit from the angle grinder turned out pretty noisy.

About the construction and manufacturing. everything is clear from the photo, but still some details:

The whole upper swivel part of the mitre saw is attached to a kingpin, which is inserted into the 150mm. the bearing (the biggest one I could get) On the outer side of the bearing the lugs are welded, through which it is mounted to the base plate with M6 screws. The cage itself is covered with a special lid from the debris.

Saw’s tensioner was made of “cargo” shock absorbers, taken from scrap metal. They had to be gutted. drained of the oil, cut out the air holes, which were “taken away” by the cloth from the debris.

To work more comfortably on the saw I had to add a soft starter block to the angle grinder t. к. The blade is being jerked too hard with the. But thanks to this I was able to lower the speed.

Naturally, in order to work in complete safety the blade was protected.

Here is a home-made mitre saw with a broach from a simple angle grinder. I think that the author is not the last option t.к. shortcomings identified, experience was gained and new ideas were born

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