What is the best 18650 battery for an electric screwdriver?

Batteries LG 18650 HE2: 3.7V 20A. Screwdriver upgrade.

In short: the batteries were bought only because of their low price. 3.1 per 1 pc. (1.89 x 3 pcs. = 5,67. Plus shipping 4.63 = 10.30 Minus 1 coupon AliExpress = 9.30 Total, for 1 piece. 3.1 ).

But! While they arrived, while the screwdriver was being assembled and tested, the store had already closed. The seller told me that he has opened a new store, but the are already standard there. A more detailed story is in the source.

1 pc US 6.83 with shipping 2 pcs US 11.65 with delivery. 5.8 apiece. 4 pcs US 20.46 with shipping. 5.1 each.

Battery Specifications: Capacity. 2500 mAh. Voltage rating was 3.6V. Charge current. 1.25 A to 4.2 V, fast charge. 4 A. Standard discharge current. 500 mA, fast discharge. 10. 20 A. Maximum discharge current. 20A. No built-in protection.

Somehow it so happened that last year I was actively using an old SKILL screwdriver, which had been lying in the closet for 15 years.

best, 18650, battery, electric

I powered it from a transformer power supply and was quite happy with the power cord, which was dragging around the room. But after reading the reviews comrades ksiman MNKE IMR-26650 3500mAh LiMn2O4 or resuscitation drill. screwdriver and kirich INR18650. 25R test and a short story of one order decided that enough to be on the phone and time to work a complete tool.

Batteries MNKE fell away because of its enormous price, and Samsung on Aliexpress also evaluated highly. from 12 for 2 pcs. (not over 4 like kirich’s :).

Periodically looking through the seller’s offerings, I saw LG 18650 HE2. And even with the shipping charges the price was quite affordable, and even a coupon for 1 dollar was helpful.

Batteries came in a paper bag, each in a cardboard box. Measured voltage is 3.7V at each.

Date of manufacture determined based on the article Waldemarik Battle of the heavyweights or choose high-current lithium batteries My batteries have the following designations: N290J174AP The first letter indicates the year of manufacture: J. 2010, K. 2011, L. 2012, M. 2013, N. 2014, O. 2015, etc.д The next three numbers are the day of manufacture: 290. The manufacturing date is October 18, 2014. In the seller’s photo, however, the date of manufacture is January 12, 2015. At first I wanted to be indignant, but decided that the difference of 3 months is a drop in the ocean and calmed down.

With datasheets a bit unclear, because different give different information about the lower limit of discharge. in one it is the standard 2.5 V, in another as much as 2 V.

In any case I checked the batteries with a borrowed iMax which only discharges to 3V, so the 0.5A discharge lasted 255 min. and gave 2130 mA (after charging to 4.2 V).

Batteries size 18650. Don’t be fooled !

18650 Batteries. Don’t let yourself be fooled !Hello all! I decided to write a little cheat sheet for choosing 18650 batteries.

Many of us have flashlights for this type of batteries, and some of us have PWBs for these types of batteries. How not to be deceived when buying and what type to choose will help this article.In writing this article I was inspired by another feather from the Chinese.

Tired of fooling people, frankly!REMEMBER! at the moment of writing this article, there are NO batteries with a capacity higher than 3600mAh in size 18650 !

Deciphering of the mystery battery inscriptions

Three classes of Li-ion batteries are used in mass production (based on the cathode material, the second letter in the labeling): 1) lithium-cobalt LiCoO2 (the most common, the highest capacity among Li-Ion)2) lithium-manganese LiMnO2, LiMn2O4, LiNiMnCoO2 (better known as high-current (INR), capable of delivering 5-7C current into the load, in capacity usually inferior to the first)3) lithium-ferrophosphate LiFePO4 (underestimated market excellent batteries, By all parameters indisputably winning the first two types, except operating voltage and capacity, it is even lower than INR) As they say, all three classes are customized for specific tasks, have their pros and cons.

Since there are no uniform standards for battery labeling, all manufacturers label differently. But ideally it should be something like this: 1) first letter. manufacturing technology (I. lithium-ion technology)2) second letter. type of chemistry, cathode material (C/M/F. cobalt/manganese/iron phosphate chemistry)3) third letter R. battery (rechargeable)4) five digits. form factor (first two digits. diameter, next two. length, The last digit. the shape of the battery (0. cylindrical). 10440 (the usual “little finger”). 14500 (the usual “finger”). 16340 (the size of a battery CR123). 17335 (not common). 18500 (also not too common). 18650 (the most common form factor in the market). 18700 (unofficially, the battery 18650 protection board, t.е. protected battery),- 26650 (larger, came on the market at the suggestion of A123 Systems, which produces lithium-ferrophosphate batteries). 32650 (quite monsters, only for stationary devices, weighing nearly 150g). plus unofficial f / f with protection boards, such as 18670 5) letters / numbers. a specific capacity marking (all manufacturers differently)

Marking Example, but usually all manufacturers have different marking:- Samsung ICR18650-26F (lithium-ion battery with the usual cobalt chemistry, f / f 18650 capacity of 2600mah)- Samsung INR18650-20R (lithium-ion battery with manganese chemistry, t.е. high current, f/f 18650 capacity 2000mah)

Proprietary designations:Panasonic NCR18650PF (NCR is a type of cobalt chemistry, something in between first and second class, i.e.е. In simple words, LiNiCoO2 chemistry, without the use of magnesium. Doesn’t really fit into a certain class, so it’s kind of a symbiosis. Of the pluses. high energy density with low thresholds to 2.5-2.75V). This battery has LiNiMnCoO2 chemistry, i.e. it is IMR high-current manganese-based, but the manufacturer left the old marking.Sanyo UR18650FM. the information may not be accurate, but I met the information that Sanyo does not produce batteries for retail sale, so do not bother with the labeling. It stamps cans for large electronics manufacturers, so the labeling is purely “for themselves. Perhaps according to internal company markings, UR and F(M) stands for type, chemistry and capacity, at least there is no information in the datasheets (only that it is a model marking). But it is a lithium-ion battery with the usual cobalt chemistry, f / f 18650 capacity of 2600mah.

Li-Ion batteries should work in the voltage range of 4.2-2.5V. In order that in the process of working voltage at the battery does not go beyond this range at the minus contact of unprotected Li-Ion battery (also called “cell”) put a small electronic protection circuit board (often, it is simply called “protection”).

It is this board that ensures that the cell works within the allowable voltage range, protects against overcurrent and short-circuits.

The protection circuit board is welded to the battery terminals with steel tape

Major Li-Ion battery manufactures DO NOT make any protected batteries. They only make UNPROTECTED batteries. There are no protected Panasonic or Samsung Li-Ion batteries produced directly by “Panasonic directly in Japan” or “Samsung” and anyone who claims otherwise is trying to mislead you for some reason.

Protected batteries are assembled from an unprotected Li-Ion battery (cell) and a protection board.

And they are also assembled in different ways: protected batteries are mostly assembled in factories in China. But China is not China. There are both pure junk (with a capacity of 3800mAh and above) and very high quality products.

Protected batteries are available under completely different brands, unrelated to the cell manufacturer.And all this “sandwich”, is packed in a thermal film with the brand and capacity designation (both real and completely delusional, in some cases).

Because of the board, protected batteries are a few millimeters longer than their unprotected counterparts and 0.5 mm thicker.Therefore YOUR BATTERY MAY NOT BE INCLUDED IN YOUR DEVICE

Such batteries can be identified by the size 18700 (where the first two digits indicate the diameter in mm., and the second two digits are the length.). This has to be taken into account when choosing a battery. whether such a battery can fit into, for example, your flashlight or charger.

Electric Screwdriver Battery Powered : Best Electric Screwdrivers 2021 //ইলৈকট্রিক ড্রাইভার।

What you need a protected battery for

Protected batteries can be used in all devices that are designed to work with Li-Ion power sources and do not have a built-in charge-discharge controller. Nowadays the main consumers of protected batteries are LED flashlights, because it is the battery that can provide power to powerful LEDs for a long time.If you have an LED flashlight you will 99% likely need a protected battery. If you want to repair the battery in your laptop or electric screwdriver, or just need a BATTERY of LI-Ion batteries, then you need exactly the unprotected batteries.Some batteries have Chinese protection that is too cautious, and interrupts the current at lower consumption. Because of this, powerful XM-L flashlights just don’t work. You turn the flashlight on, it blinks once, and that’s it. I put the battery in again. same thing. The protection triggers almost immediately. You can either remove the safety guard or buy another battery.The protection inevitably increases the length of the battery by 3-4 mm, or even more. When the length reaches 7 cm, some flashlights stop closing and don’t work. The longer the battery, the more force the springs exert on it; sometimes they even squeeze the minus contact of the battery. It happens especially often when the flashlight is used as an underbarrel flashlight, during recoil. But screwing the lid of the flashlight tight and feeling the spring scratching the battery is not very pleasant either.the flashlight is NOT PROTECTED from overheating and explosion. This is prevented by a hole in the valve, through which the high pressure in the battery is bled. But it will not work in a sealed space.In principle with some attention you can safely use unprotected batteries. Many people do. Of course, we are talking about the flashlight with only one battery. If several batteries are used, protection is absolutely necessary.

Brand Capacity Marking Charge voltage end voltage discharge current A continuous (max)1 LG 3200mAh ICR18650E1 4.35 ±0.05 V 2.75V 4.65-1.5C2 LG 3000mAh ICR18650D1 4.35 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5.8-2C3 LG 2800mAh ICR18650C1 4.35 ±0.05 V 3.0V 4-1,5C4 LG 2600mAh ICR18650B2 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 3.75-1.5C5 LG 2600mAh ICR18650B3 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 3,75-1,5C6 LG 2600mAh ICR18650B4 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5-2C7 LG 2400mAh ICR18650A4 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 3.6-1.5C8 LG 2200mAh ICR18650S3 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 3,2-1,5C9 Panasonic 3600mAh NCR18650G 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 6.5-2C10 Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 6.2-2C11 Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650BF 4 4 ±0 05 V.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 6.2-2C12 Panasonic 3200mAh NCR18650BD 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 6,4-2C(10-3C)13 Panasonic 3200mAh NCR18650BE 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 6.4-2C(10-3C)14 Panasonic 3100mAh NCR18650A 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 5.9-2C15 Panasonic 2900mAh NCR18650PF 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 5,5-2C(10-3C)16 Panasonic 2900mAh NCR18650PD 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 5,5-2C(10-3C)17 Panasonic 2900mAh NCR18650 4 05 V.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 5.5-2C18 Panasonic 2600mAh CGR18650E 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 5-2C19 Panasonic 2500mAh CGR18650F 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 5-2C20 Panasonic 2250mAh CGR18650CG 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V 4.3-2C21 Panasonic 1900mAh UR18650Y 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 3.8-2C22 Samsung 3200mAh ICR18650-32A 4.35 ±0.05 V 2.75V 6.4-2C23 Samsung 3000mAh ICR18650-30B 4.35 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5.9-2C24 Samsung 3000mAh ICR18650-30A 4.3 ±0.05 V 2.75V 6-2C25 Samsung 2900mAh ICR18650-29E 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 2,8-1C(8,25-3C)26 Samsung 2800mAh ICR18650-28A 4.3 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5.6-2C27 Samsung 2600mAh ICR18650-26C 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5,2-2C28 Samsung 2600mAh ICR18650-26F 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5.2-2C29 Samsung 2600mAh ICR18650-26H 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5,2-2C30 Samsung 2400mAh ICR18650-24E 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 4.8-2C31 Samsung 2200mAh ICR18650-22F 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 4.4-2C32 Sanyo 3350mAh NCR18650BF 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5 V 6.2-2C33 Sanyo 3000mAh UR18650ZTA 4.35 ±0.05 V 3.0V 5.8-2C34 Sanyo 2800mAh UR18650ZT 4.3 ±0.05 V 3.0V 5,4-2C35 Sanyo 2600mAh UR18650ZY 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 2.6-1C36 Sanyo 2600mAh UR18650FM 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5-2C37 Sanyo 2400mAh UR18650F 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 5-2C38 Sanyo 2250mAh UR18650A 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 4,3-2C39 Sanyo 2200mAh UR18650FJ 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V40 Sanyo 2000mAh UR18650Y 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.75V 3.8-2C41 Sony 2900mAh US18650NC1 4.2 ±0.05 V 2.5V 8(10)42 Sony 2600mAh US18650GR 8A 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V43 Sony 2400mAh US18650GR G7 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V44 Sony 2200mAh US18650GR G5 4.2 ±0.05 V 3.0V

Manufacturer Capacity Marking current(A)1 LG 1 500 HB2 202 LG 1 500 HB6 253 LG 2 000 HD2 204 LG 2 000 HE1 105 LG 2 500 HE2 206 LG 2 500 HE4 207 LG 3 000 HG2 208 LG 3 200 MH1 109 LG 3 500 MJ1 1010 Panasonic 2 250 CGR18650CH 1011 Panasonic 2 900 NCR18650PF 1012 Panasonic 2 900 NCR18650PD 1013 Panasonic 3 200 NCR18650BD 1014 Samsung 1 300 INR18650- 13Q 1815 Samsung 1 300 INR18650-13P 1016 Samsung 1 500 INR18650-15Q 1817 Samsung 1 500 INR18650-15M 2318 Samsung 1 500 INR18650-15R 2519 Samsung 2 000 INR18650-20Q 1520 Samsung 2 000 INR18650- 20R 2221 Samsung 2 200 ICR18650-22P 1022 Samsung 2 400 INR18650-24R 2523 Samsung 2 500 INR18650-25R 2024 Samsung 3 000 INR18650-30Q 1525 Samsung 3 200 INR18650-32E 1026 Samsung 3 500 INR18650-35E 827 Sanyo 1 300 UR18650SA 1528 Sanyo 1 300 UR18650SAX 2529 Sanyo 1 500 UR18650W2 1830 Sanyo 1 500 UR18650WX 2531 Sanyo 2 000 UR18650EX 2032 Sanyo 2 000 UR18650RX 1033 Sanyo 3 500 NCR18650GA 1034 Sony 1 100 US18650VT 1035 Sony 1 300 SE US18650VT 2036 Sony 1 600 US18650VTC3 3037 Sony 2 100 US18650VTC4 3038 Sony 2 250 US18650V3 1039 Sony 2 600 US18650VTC5 3040 Sony 2 900 US18650NC1 10

High-current 18650 with GB and another conversion of the screwdriver to lithium

Hi all. Not so much a review of the batteries (which I got, by the way, thanks to Mysku), but rather a conversion option for the screwdriver. Batteries are of high quality, the capacity is correct, implanting them instead of the nickel cadmium ones was a success

LG HE4 high-current batteries from Gearbest: https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_254172.html The batteries are good, their capacity was checked by my friend with the Opus charger, the capacity is correct. No other special tests were done.

Imax B3 three-channel charger: aliexpress.com/item/New-EU-Plug-iMaxRC-iMax-B3-Pro-Compact-2S-3S-Lipo-Balance-Battery-Charger-For-RC/32762617267.html This is the second attempt to buy such a charger, the first time the order did not come, refunded. The charger ordered from the seller at the link above arrived, it works, it comes with a 40cm long power cord, the cord in the picture is clearly different. There is no cable to connect the charger to something in the package.

Holder for three 18650 batteries: aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-Practical-DIY-Black-Storage-Box-Holder-Case-For-3x-3-7V-18650-Rechargeable-Batteries/32666851252.html In seller’s picture this variant of holder for three 18650 had pins for soldering into printed circuit board, but I received another variant, not only not for printing, but with soldered in kolhozno jumpers, connecting all three batteries in parallel. Got a partial refund. Jumpers unsoldered, used, though not as planned originally.

Background. My Interskol DA-12ER-01 screwdriver is almost 10 years old. Most of all he “got” during the repair of the apartment about 6 years ago, but usually most of the year he had a rest, a little work in the summer at the cottage, and performed small tasks: crafts, assembling furniture, etc.д. The problem with the batteries began a couple of years ago, one battery ceased to hold a charge, the second worked quite normally. Then I disassembled the defective battery, found the two most tortured cells and tried to replace them with similar ones bought on eBay. But when I put in the new elements, I found that the other elements, which I thought were still alive, were also candidates for the trash garbage can: under load, the voltage on them reversed polarity. There was no sense to change all elements, so I converted this battery to a kind of adapter to connect the screwdriver to the cigarette lighter of the car.

But I was not going to connect it to the car onboard network, but to an old lead battery 12v 7 Ah from a halogen video light, the socket which was similar to the car cigarette lighter. The light for my camcorder I have long had a LED powered by lithium batteries, but the 12v battery was still useful for the screwdriver, but only used a couple of times. Here is this super-mega adapter:

But since the 12v 7ah battery was more than 8 years old, it stopped holding a charge, it could not be restored, and I was forced to scrap it. So most likely the “adapter” for the cigarette lighter will disassemble, to connect the “screwdriver” to the car does not make sense.

This summer, finally gave up and the second battery screwdriver, he began to run out so quickly that serious work they can not do. In spring it worked at least somehow, but by fall a dozen medium sized self-tapping screws on one charge was its limit.

But nevertheless, I think the batteries of my screwdriver worked pretty good, they lasted 8 and 10 years, while my friends died in the 3rd and 5th year of their lives, in about the same unprofessional use.

Buying even one new nickel cadmium battery is an utter savagery, it is 50-60% of the price of such a screwdriver (yes, they are still for sale) with two such batteries in the set. I also rejected the option of buying an already assembled battery of nickel-cadmium batteries from ali or ebay, ready to be installed in the case of a dead battery: it is cheaper, but the quality of these batteries is questionable, so, two cells I bought on ebay had a decent variation of capacity, and how long it all works, nobody knows. In addition, I decided to give up nickel-cadmium finally and irrevocably: from the conversion to lithium of the cordless screwdriver, which I did six months ago, the impressions are the most positive.

Of course, my screwdriver is old and shabby, so I thought about buying a new modern lithium battery to replace it. But the mechanics is still perfectly all right, and the mechanics of modern inexpensive screwdrivers is extremely weak: the ones I have had in my hands had an obscene amount of play in the chuck bearing after an obscenely short period of time. And there was no point in buying a professional, expensive screwdriver, because most of the year it would remain in the closet.

But the main thing is that I was itching to convert my screwdriver to lithium by myself. I had my doubts: the cost of batteries, protection and charge leveling boards was close to that of a simple lithium screwdriver from Leroy-Merlin, with a one-year warranty. But the desire to solder and tinker with it outweighed the doubts that some wrong batteries would be sent, that something would go wrong, etc.п.

At first I wanted to do everything according to the classic scheme, that is, to take three high-current batteries format 18650, add to them a board protection and equalization of charge 3S, respectively remake the charger for lithium. But then I decided to make it simpler, and in my opinion, much more convenient.

From my experience with batteries for VBG6, F550, F770 camcorders, etc., where two 18650 batteries are in series, I concluded a long time ago, that the batteries were dying mainly because the charge equalization circuit can not do its job. In the end one battery is constantly overcharged, the other undercharged, and very soon the battery goes in the trash. Even replacing dead cells with the original Sanyo, which has much more stable parameters, didn’t last as long as I wanted, a couple of years and that’s it.

But in a screwdriver the battery will be of three cells, current loads are much higher, the unbalance of the cells will manifest itself faster, so I doubt very much that the charge equalization/balancing board will help the batteries not to die prematurely. That’s why I decided not to charge all the batteries from one source, in favor of charging each battery separately. I decided to use a three-channel charger, the well known Imax B3. I think it’s more effective than the balancer card and it’s very compact and lightweight.

I decided not to use the overdischarge/overcharge protection card at all, the screwdriver has a battery voltage indicator, by which you can check how much the battery is discharged. Well, if some battery out of three will be in trouble along with the rest (under-voltage protection would have knocked out the whole battery long ago) you know, it’s its destiny, it can’t be helped, but the battery won’t power down before time.

Figuring that after installing three 18650 cells in the battery case there would still be a lot of free space, I decided to shove the Imax B3 charger itself into it as well. In this case, to charge the batteries will be sufficient to simply plug the cord to the screwdriver 220v. And it is really convenient: no external charging, the complete set to the screwdriver will only have a 220v cord, and the cord is universal, even from the receiver / printer / music.center will fit.

Said and done. The first batteries with GB came to me, at first I tried to check them myself, putting them one by one into my existing PWB, giving a load of 1A, and calculating the capacity based on the operating time until disconnection. Despite the fact that I recalculated the capacity from 5v to 3.7v, I got very low results, about 1.5 Ah, so I asked my friend to test these batteries with full Opus test charger, I do not remember the model, and he calmed me down, the capacity of all batteries was normal, but not 2.5 Ah, but 2.3 Ah, which I was satisfied with.

I originally wanted to connect the batteries by means of spot welding, I even bought a nickel strip for that, but I never finished the spot welding machine. That’s why I decided to use a ready made holder for three 18650 cells, ordered for a completely different project. It didn’t fit the seller’s description but after small modification it fit perfectly, especially as the batteries are very tightly seated in it and the contacts are quite thick and stiff. Even with a very dynamic shaking the batteries did not jump out of the holder.

The last thing to arrive was the Imax B3 charger. Tested it. it works, and then I started the process of converting the screwdriver to lithium.

The original battery was gutted, I soldered the wires to the contact group, screwed the battery compartment to the base of the case, and soldered the wires to it. I put a 10A fuse, but I hooked it to the terminals: the car holder did not fit into the case. By the way, it is one of the nickel-cadmium cells that prop up the contact group, it is just the right length. I ran the screwdriver on the lithium batteries and was surprised at how much torque it now has.

Next, I installed the Imax B3 charger in the battery cover, put the charging connector on the side of the cover (not native). At the indicator LEDs removed the base, and brought them into the holes in the body, so that now you can watch the entire process of charging by the three shining “eyes”. Of course, the red light is charging, the green light is charging.

Then I connected the charger to the batteries, ran the screwdriver for a while and put it on charge. And here appeared the problem, which I have already read about, and which could not be avoided in principle. Microcircuits. charge controllers TP4056 began to heat up wildly. Well, they would not heat, charging current (judging by the current-retaining resistor resistance of 1.8k) about 600 mA, the input about 6v. I had batteries which were almost fully charged, and the voltage during the charge was about 4.15v with a power dissipation of about 1.1w per chip. This is quite enough to fry three microcircuits on a small circuit board, and even in a closed volume. If the batteries had to be charged from zero, even more power would be dissipated on the microcircuits.

So I replaced the current drivers, increasing them from 1.8k to 4.7k and decreasing the charging current to about 270mA. But even so the chips burned my fingers. Of course, nothing bad happened in this mode, the batteries were charged normally and the green LEDs lit up almost simultaneously. But still, the charger can overheat in extreme heat, the housing was not covered during the tests. And the charging current is somehow too low.

That’s why I put a small heat sink on microcircuits (via Nomakon) and changed current charge resistors to 2,2k again. charging current is about 500 mA. After running the charger in this mode, I didn’t notice any serious heating of the heatsink, and I’m sure that even on a hot day in a closed battery case the temperature will be normal.

The only thing that bothers me is the maximum voltage of the battery at the end of the charge: 4.20 4.23 4.21v. Isn’t that too much? But it is impossible to influence this voltage, except to replace the microcircuits.

In general, assembled a new battery finally. Instead of the former 1.5h it has a capacity of 2.3h, and without memory effect. The downside is that it can not be left in extreme cold, but no one is forced to do so.

Well, I like the way the screwdriver works with the new battery.

Now a little about the original screwdriver battery charger:

The charger worked fine for all 10 years, despite the fact that it was warm as an iron. Surprisingly, after 10 years the pungent smell of plastic and burnt gethinax has not weathered out of it. Now there is no place to use it, so I decided to gut it:

All “Interskol” products that I have encountered, caused great doubt that they are made in our country, as claimed by “Interskol” itself. Everything is too “Chinese”, both printing and assembly, and exclusively imported components. Also with the charger, “own” just zero. I am familiar with the domestic production, both consumer goods, and military equipment, and I think that in this case it was done “not our way”. I think Interskol only put their labels on it.

But since the battery charger was being scrapped, I decided to borrow the contact group, which was connected to the battery. I took the board apart and sawed it down, leaving a piece with contacts:

The question is why? To be able to connect an external load to the battery instead of a screwdriver. My former “traveling” source of voltage was a 12v 7ah battery, but it died and it was logical to use the battery for a screwdriver instead. So I made a special adapter out of a piece of charger and other materials that came to hand.

The purpose of this adapter with a cigarette lighter plug on the wiring harness is to power the onboard car battery when removing the starter battery for recharging or replacement with another battery (I have two). I don’t want to restore the settings of the radio and other devices after disconnecting the on-board power system. Plug in the cigarette lighter and do your job. It’s a pity there is no lamp under the hood It is not recommended to start the engine with the external accumulator connected, the limiter of a charging current of accumulators is absent, but in case of what the fuse on 5А in the plug burns out.

The plan is to make the adapter universal to connect different devices, but I have not found a suitable connector, I will remake later.

In general, I am satisfied with the screwdriver conversion. It cost me about 1100, plus three evenings after work to redo it. In my opinion, it is convenient but of course not without flaws. The battery discharge must be monitored to avoid destroying the batteries, and it is better not to let the converted screwdriver into someone else’s hands. But I do not know yet exactly how the cordless trimmer behaves when the battery is completely discharged, how much its power will drop, and what the indicator shows. So, it will be necessary to observe the screwdriver while working with it.

Considering the protection of batteries, we can talk not only about the existence of an electronic protection system, but also a mechanical system, which does not require a board.

Mechanical protection involves breaking the circuit to prevent the battery from exploding by opening the valve that brings out the electrolyte.

Important! This protection system is put in many batteries as an additional measure if the electronic protection board fails.

Interestingly, the presence of this kind of protection is not mentioned by many manufacturers, but it’s a fact. if an unstable chemical composition is present, then the mechanical protection is sure to be there, even if there is no word about it.

How to make a battery charger for an electric screwdriver?

Chargers also fail, need to be repaired or build a new one

Such a device can be made by yourself, if you have a notion of reading wiring diagrams and the order of connections. Charger must provide the battery with the correct current, and it does not matter, that the electric screwdriver is powered by batteries of different voltages. When the load is disconnected in the charger the voltage is greater than the nominal, if the battery is connected for charging, it is set to normal.

The transformer must be powerful, then the current will be generated regardless of the duration of work and the windings will not overheat.

schematic of current generator with power transistor

If you connect the elements according to the diagram shown above you can get the charge in the form of a current generator with a powerful transistor. It is powered by a rectifier bridge connected to a step-down transformer.

The resistor R1 regulates the constant charge and R3 limits the maximum current.

  • Rectifier diodes. VD1-VD4;
  • diode. VD5;
  • LED. VD6;
  • resistors. R1, R2, R3
  • transistors. VT1, VT2;
  • transformer is T1;
  • K50-35 capacitors. C1, C

Install the electronic parts on a textolite printed circuit board according to the schematic diagram. Select board by dimensions, so that it will fit in the case.

  • The connections are transferred to the textolite with miter fishing line, run the tracks with nitro paint, etch with copper sulfate, solder the parts piece by piece.
  • The assembly is transferred to the case with soldered terminals and the transformer lead out.

Separate connectors are needed for the transformer to connect the charging unit.

Parts are placed without crossing conductive circuits during soldering. No tight packing required. Leave a few millimeters of space between transistors or resistors to make soldering easier.

The charger can be assembled if you have a concept of elementary laws of electrical engineering, skills in working with a soldering iron, patience, assiduity and scrupulosity.


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8650 Battery Specifications: capacity, voltage, current

Let us first analyze the main characteristics of the rechargeable 18650 batteries for electronic cigarettes in order to further modify them. the main parameters of the battery 18650:

  • voltage,
  • current output,
  • charging current,
  • capacity,
  • number of charge-discharge cycles,
  • usage safety,
  • protection board,
  • lifetime.
  • The voltage describes the electrical potential difference between the positive (“plus”) and negative (“minus”) electrodes of a 18650 battery. Voltage is measured in volts (Volt) and is denoted by the letter “V. Voltage changes during discharge. A distinction is made between: maximum voltage. just after a full charge,
  • minimum. below which a vape battery must not be discharged,
  • Rated. in the middle of discharge.

stable operation for several years

In order for the device to cope with the load and not to spoil from daily use, a person needs to follow some rules:

  • Do not allow for the product to be completely discharged;
  • The battery should not be exposed to high temperatures;
  • The sun’s rays must not hit the device;
  • It is important to follow the rules of storage at all times;
  • Do not operate after the housing has been damaged.

The differences between unprotected batteries and protected batteries are not as big as you might think. Quality depends on the assembly and manufacturer. If one needs a reliable and durable product, it is better to buy from a popular company. Also do not forget about the purpose of the product and the application.

Customer Review: “I subscribe to every review. the best battery store on Aliexpress. Old Bicor screwdriver 14.4V is alive again with these batteries. Arrived from order to receipt in 3 weeks. In one piece. Voltage at all 3.83 volts. I order not for the first time, everything is satisfactory (there is a review on YouTube). Seller is reliable, there are even rechargeable ni cd (nickel cadmium).”

Customer Review: “Very fast delivery time for rechargeable batteries, only 30 days. I order rechargeable batteries many times from this seller, always quality product, fully consistent with the description. Rechargeable Li-ion batteries weigh an average of 57g., That corresponds to the weight of the batteries of the previous batch. Discharged a fully charged battery with 1A current to a minimum voltage of 2.6V. USB tester showed a discharge capacity of 3300 mAh. The charger then charged the battery to a charging capacity of 3560 mAh. Which is much better than the advertised amount.”

Top 5 Best 18650 Batteries Review in 2021

Customer Review: “This is not the first time I buy these batteries. Rating is high, reviews are positive. They work well, the capacity is as advertised 3000-3400 mAh. I think these are the best batteries for a screwdriver (for Makita at most). Delivery of batteries 30 days, no faster, because it is dangerous goods and air freight is prohibited. Otherwise, everything is perfect.”

Customer Review: “Good quality lithium battery, ran it a few times. holds capacity. First LiitoKala battery I bought a year and a half ago, also so far so good. I took batteries for my Interskol screwdriver and flashlight. I’m satisfied with the purchase and once a month the store provides a promo code that is located on the product card, the price is much lower.”

Customer Review: “Tested all the rechargeable batteries, everything is fine, resistance is great, charges like it should. Some unscrupulous sellers on Ali pass off as high-current batteries 3000 mAh, in reality, half do not work, and up to 1800 mAh, do not even reach. This seller always has great batteries, if you do not know which batteries are better to buy, get from this brand.”

VariCore NCR18650B lead batteries.

Customer Review: “Not my first time ordering. This time the batch is also good, all 40 pieces. 3,68v. The AA batteries are great for the electric bike and the gyro scooter. Came in one piece, the packaging is high quality. Delivery in 30 days, which is fast for batteries. Planning to order AAA batteries later.”

LiitoKala LiiDBHG218650 batteries.

Customer Review: “Quality batteries. Within the specified capacity (2800. 2900 mAh). I bought the batteries to replace the Hitachi electric screwdriver. The electric screwdriver works fine. How to choose a good battery? Go to the seller’s store and look at the orders. I recommend the seller and the product to everyone.”

Customer Review: “Best Li-ion battery for the price. This is not the first time I order from this seller. Consistently good quality batteries! The capacity is as advertised. I bought it for my Bosch electric screwdriver. Packed in cardboard box, delivery was fast, fully tracked. Delivery by courier within 10 days from the warehouse at “

Customer Review: “Batteries are powerful. The capacity is right. Took it for my bicycle and flashlights. Is it possible to buy batteries on Aliexpress without fear? Yes, but only from a trustworthy seller. They don’t take very long, don’t forget that these are lithium batteries and they travel by train for safety.”

Customer Review: “Best Batteries on AlieXpress! Been ordering for the third year. I am converting my screwdrivers to lithium-ion batteries. Customers like it! The average capacity is 2600 mAh, and they hold 15 amps normally. You can see the battery test on youtube. Everyone’s advice!”

Here we have reviewed the top 10 18650 batteries from Aliexpress. Such batteries are always useful in everyday life. The price is not expensive at all.

They are often used in electric screwdrivers, flashlights, wireless mice and even in some electric scooters. Great use.

Best 18650 batteries by price/quality for 2021-2022
1 GP L1111865026FPE-2CRFB1 Check out the price 9.9 / 10
2 ROBITON 18650-3000 with protection Check price 9.8 / 10
3 Sony VTC6 Ask the price 9.7 / 10
Best high-current 18650 batteries
1 Olight 18650 ORB-186C35 Ask the price 9.9 / 10
2 Samsung INR18650-30Q Find out the price 9.7 / 10
3 LiitoKala HG2 18650 Learn the price 9.6 / 10
Best lithium-ion 18650 batteries
1 ROBITON 18650-2600 with protection Check price 9.9 / 10
2 GP Rechargeable 2600 Series 18650 Learn the price 9.8 / 10
3 Sanyo NCR18650GA Ask the price 9.6 / 10
Best lithium 18650 batteries
1 Samsung 18650-25R Check price 9.9 / 10
2 Sony 18650VTC6 Ask the price 9.7 / 10
3 Robiton 3.4/Li18650 Check price 9.5 / 10
Best inexpensive 18650 batteries
1 FAZA 18650 3000 mAh Find out the price 9.9 / 10
2 SmartBuy LI18650 Check price 9.8 / 10
3 18650 SmartBuy Check price 9.5 / 10

Very often a 18650 battery is confused with a regular 1.5 volt battery. This is wrong, because the voltage and dimensions are completely different.

USB & Li-ion Upgrading dead Black & Decker Screwdriver. 892

The battery 18650 is commonly understood as a rechargeable battery. Some types of batteries have a built-in port and can be charged by USB.

When selecting a battery, look for the following features

  • Voltage. Most batteries have 3.6 volts, but you can also find some with 3.7. When fully charged, the voltage reaches 4.2-4.3 volts.
  • Number of Amps. The amperage in the battery depends on the battery model. It usually starts at 0.5 amps in a battery.
  • Capacity. The maximum possible capacity is 3600 mAh, the minimum capacity is 1500 mAh. High-capacity batteries are usually taken for quadcopters and other power-consuming devices.
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