What kind of grease is in a hilti te 76 rotary hammer

Design features of heavy peorators and demolition hammers

The question of choosing mounting systems in percussion tools, particularly chisels and drills, has long been removed. To date, almost all manufacturers have given preference to the SDS MAX system due to the exceptional wear resistance of parts, resistance to overload, as well as to the damaging effects of vibration. Such unanimity in the ranks of manufacturers has also found a positive response among consumers, t.к. it is possible to choose the consumables, not only focusing on specific manufacturers, but also within the desired price category.

It is well-known that a miser pays twice, and a consumer wishing to save money often forgets that demolition hammers and rotary hammers with very high impact energy can not be equipped with cheap consumables. Let’s take for example the two peorators with 12 J and 27 J powers (DWT BH-1500 BMC with 1500 W and AEG PN 11 with 1700 W respectively). In both cases, the impact energy during the tool operation is enough to flatten the shank of a low-quality and low-price drill bit without the possibility of self-repair. However, builders have the right to pay for the replacement of the percussion tool barrel, which will cost a pretty penny. Let’s calculate: the part costs a few hundred dollars. It is not difficult to calculate the overpayment amount.

As you know, the requirements for European percussion instrument manufacturers are many times higher than the requirements in our country. Our goods simply do not pass strict quality control when exported abroad: there is electrical interference that affects the quality of work, high noise and unacceptable levels of vibration. unfortunately, the framework, which has long been the norm for manufacturers from Europe, for our manufacturers is a kind of Procrustean bed. There is no way to squeeze into it yet. In particular, foreign-made equipment is now equipped with anti-vibration handles and overlays against shock absorption, significantly reducing the harm caused to builders during work.

Makita, a well-established company in the field of percussion tools, for a long time produced the HR5001C SDS-MAX without significant changes in design, which, by the way, were not necessary. The tool completely corresponded to the requirements of that time: high level of endurance, wear resistance and working capacity together with the motor power of 1500 W, the impact force of good 17, 5 J, weight of 10 kg, and it allowed to call the tool one of the best in its niche SDS MAKS and price category.

However, because of the need to comply with safety requirements, Makita has produced the SDS MAX HR5210C with identical technical characteristics but with improved safety features, primarily reducing vibration at work (this additional protection is called AVT): dynamic counterweight (compensates for vibration by counteracting the piston), anti-vibration handles and shock-absorbing pads. Having fitted perfectly into the standards of Europe, the tool, however, gained one and a half kilograms in weight and 4 thousand in price. However, representatives of companies in European countries have calculated that the costs for improved safety percussion tools are many times less than those for the treatment of victims of the same tools, but created without following the strict rules.

Liquid lubrication of the gears of heavy striking equipment is getting more and more popular among manufacturers. There are quite convincing explanations: liquid grease, unlike conventional grease, thickens rather slowly in the cold, spreads faster through the mechanism of the tool, protecting the gearbox from heating, and thus prolongs the life of the rotary hammers or demolition hammers.

The housing is another important part, whose quality is directly proportional to the protection it provides. High-quality plastic body not only saves metal machine parts, but also its operator from burns, reduces vibration level, and insulates from electric current.

The notion that the housing should not get hot during operation is a fallacy. There is, however, a certain temperature limit to its heating, which should be maintained by the lubrication, ventilation and metal housing, diverting heat and cooling the tool. Otherwise, not only is there a risk of getting burnt, but the tool’s service life is shortened. The extended handle, which is included in the scope of delivery of the DeWALT rotary table saws, also serves as a coolant. In addition, the handle is a very useful and convenient detail for those builders who often work on a horizontal surface.

As for outfitting heavy percussion equipment, the best option in terms of cost-effectiveness is to buy a perforator or demolition hammer in a special case needed to store and transport the tools safely and conveniently, and with a maximum of one chisel. It’s quite simple: manufacturers often equip their tools with unnecessary parts and drills that are unlikely to be needed in the long run. So, a tip for economy: buy the necessary minimum, selecting the rest of the necessary elements later on your own.

Another company, besides the aforementioned kings in the production of percussion tools is HILTI, the principle of which is as follows: implementation of exclusively direct sales of manufactured equipment, bypassing suppliers. This is often fraught with complications for buyers from small settlements related to the question of repair and service. On the other hand, there are numerous positive references about the company from a great number of buyers and the unique warranty period and service: elimination of any defect within 2 years. There are some minor issues to be solved: how to get the residents of remote villages to the official service center and, of course, to solve the price issue. (as with the HILTI TE 70). This is a record of sorts. And at the same time, you can buy 4 Bosch rotary hammers for the same price, and spare parts are much easier to find.

The choice of tool when buying depends primarily on the functions that will be used most often. For destroying any constructions the demolition hammer has obvious advantages due to the fact that its performance in the direct impact mode is several times higher than that of a peorator of the same class.

Getting the right set of hand tools for the construction brigade.

As a rule, most often home masters buy equipment of well-known brands HITACHI, Bosch, SPARKY, Makita, Interskol and so on. Professional also use equipment of the same brands, but it is usually more powerful. Amateur tools are characterized by very low productivity and their small size. over, such equipment does not have the widest range of technical capabilities.

Professional tools are more powerful, so they can cope with different surfaces easily and smoothly.

When a tool breaks, it is unpleasant. But it is much scarier when it falls apart right in the hands!

So how to form a set of tools for the construction brigade.

The work performed by various brigades varies greatly in its complexity.

That’s why the necessary tools can be in different versions: minimally necessary, universal, or advanced and multi-task-oriented.

Minimum tool kit. The basic materials used at the moment in real estate construction are concrete and brick, so we choose the peorator as the most important tool for a finisher. It is needed both in the preparatory work (removal of old ceramic tiles, plaster on the wall, processing of the slopes, etc.) and in the preliminary work (e.g. removal of old tiles, plaster on the wall, processing of the outer edges, etc.).д.The main materials used at the moment in real estate construction are concrete, brick, so we choose the peorator as the most important tool of a finisher. Let’s choose the lightweight drill, weighing about 2 kg. The two-mode models in the TE 2, TE 2-M and TE 5 (HILTI) or the three-mode GBH 2-24 DSR and GBH 2-24 DFR (Bosch), which combine several functions: drilling, drilling with impact and chiselling. It is important to know that the maximum diameter of drilling is indicated in the certificate of tools 20-24 mm, but you should know that they are usually focused on drilling a large number of holes of small diameter (4-16 mm). The same is true for the chiseling function that is only of secondary importance and is meant to be used as a jackhammer for a short time. Otherwise this could result in a drastic reduction in tool life.

In the category of more universal hand tools, you can find more powerful machines weighing about 4 kg. These are TE 18M (HILTI) and GBH 4 DFE (Bosch). They become considerably less hot and do not require frequent breaks in operation and are consequently more productive, particularly in the drilling and chiselling processes. As a rule, these machines duplicate all the functions of 2 kg peorators, they can be used in drilling mode for stirring various finishing compositions of glues, paints, plaster mixtures.

The minimum set can be equipped with the universal gimbals TE 55 (HILTI) and GBH 5 DCE (Bosch) from 5 kg weight. These are serious machines that can drill with augers up to 55 mm in diameter and core bits up to 90 mm. They are also used as a jackhammer, but this function is not the most basic one. So the next manual electric tool, this cutting or angle grinder (in parlance is an angle grinder).Practically universal and indispensable tool. Main mission is to cut concrete and metal construction elements. Cutting machines are differentiated by power and the diameter of the cutting disc. For drilling to a depth of 30 mm and cutting pipes the power of the tool with a disc diameter of 125 mm and a power of 1000 1400 W will do. These are the DC 125-S (HILTI), but also the GWS 10-125 and GWS 14-125 (Bosch).

Sawing is a very serious operation in any type of finishing works. Sawing pipes, plastic sheeting, laths, parquet, all kinds of panels. Therefore, a jig saw should be included in the group of necessary tools. This machine is indispensable for sawing various materials in wood, plastic, metal and wherever sawing on site is necessary. The jigsaw is very useful for sawing on a curve. Jigsaws WSJ 110-EV, WSJ 110-ET (HILTI) and GST 100 (Bosch) have blades for cutting all materials that are available for various finishing works.

Circular saws WSC 55 (HILTI) and GKS 54 SE, GKS 66 SE (Bosch) are required for high precision sawing and where a sufficiently long cut in a straight line is necessary: shortening a door leaf, sawing various planes, etc.д.

The most important thing for equipping the finishing team is a cordless electric screwdriver. Screwdrivers with a 12 V or 14 V battery are most suitable. These models are SF120-A (HILTI), GSR 12 VE-2, GSR 14,4 VE-2, GSR 12 VPE-2, GSR 14,4 VPE-2 (Bosch). All screwdrivers have an additional drilling function and can be used as a drill. The electric electric screwdriver comes with a 2.0 Ah or 3.0 Ah battery (HILTI). If you use the tool repeatedly, it makes sense to buy two batteries to replace it.

Sometimes finishers need to have a tool that specializes in working with wood.

Sabre saw WSR 1200-PE (HILTI) or GSA 800-PE (Bosch) is suitable for cutting boards and boards in large quantities, for dismantling window and door frames, and for sawing pipes in hard-to-reach places. The GBS 100 AE belt sander (Bosch) is used for removing old paintwork and sanding wood. It is used in the manufacture of non-standard (eg, built-in) furniture, as well as for the treatment of wooden floors in places inaccessible to conventional parquet machines.

A construction vacuum cleaner is now a necessity in any modern builder. It is not a tool in the truest sense of the word. but helps to keep a clean job site, having the ability to connect to a torator, cutoff and other tools greatly increases the comfort of work. With the same power as a home vacuum cleaner, a construction vacuum cleaner has a larger filter area, larger bin capacity, and can pick up liquids of all kinds (except combustibles)!). Recommended models of construction vacuum cleaners: GAS 12-30 F (Bosch) with a bin capacity of 30 l, TDA-VC 40 (HILTI) with 40 l and GAS 12-50 RF (Bosch) with 50 l.

Larger sets of equipment for builders also include a circular saw, jigsaw, belt sander, vacuum cleaner, cordless electric electric screwdriver. The equipment of large construction firms, which includes several teams, has its own specifics. Demolition and installation work require powerful tools in addition to lightweight rotary hammers. Bosch specialists recommend the machines with a weight of 5 kg (or more) the TE 55 (HILTI) and the GBH 5 DCE (Bosch), with which one can drill holes of 30-40 mm in diameter.

Peorators in this weight class, despite their weight, allow for bottom-up work. These tools can be operated in two modes: drilling with impact and chiseling. It is necessary to have more powerful and heavy machines TE 76 ATC (HILTI) and GBH 7-45 DE (Bosch) with the weight from 7 kg. They are used for drilling holes of diameter 45 80 mm or hollow core holes up to 120 150 mm. They have proven to be great for installing ventilation and air conditioning systems, as well as the construction of technological, doorways and other openings.

If the team often performs work on the demolition of partitions or making various openings, then have the 11-kilogram GBH 11 DE (Bosch) peorator. This Champion-heavyweight also has two functions drilling and chiseling, but this tool can only work from top to bottom and in the horizontal direction. Crews dismantling concrete or masonry structures can include in their equipment the lightweight TE 505, TE 705 (HILTI), GSH 5 SE (Bosch) or the more powerful TE 805, TE 905 (HILTI) or GSH 11 E (Bosch). These tools are designed to perform only one chiselling operation and have more impact energy than a torch of the same weight. Due to its monofunctionality, the demolition hammer has a relatively simple kinematic scheme, which gives it a high durability.

Construction workers often encounter concrete or metal cutting when working on large job orders. Therefore, cut-off (angle grinder) machine must not only be productive, but also have a certain power reserve. In the cut-off machines DC 230-S DC, 230-S/EX (HILTI) and GWS 20-230, GWS 25-230 (Bosch) diamond discs with a diameter of 230 mm are used, power 2000 2500 watts. To reduce dust levels, these machines can be equipped with special attachments, allowing you to connect a vacuum cleaner.

For cutting concrete in large repair orders and for making or correcting concrete openings it is efficient to use specialized equipment. The water-cooled DS-TS 5 E (HILTI) stationary concrete cutter cuts concrete to a depth of 21 cm and is distinguished by its quick assembly and disassembly. Water drainage capability. The low noise level makes it possible to work in an occupied house. Powered by a 380 V mains supply. If it is not possible to use such equipment powerful diamond drilling machines DD-160 E, DD-250 E (HILTI) or GDB 1600 WE (Bosch) are used. They are used to produce circular or contour cuts with very low noise and dust levels.

The sinker cutter is very useful when working on new electric or water pipes as well as in the course of disassembling old utilities. This tool is equipped with two diamond discs that make parallel cuts of specified depth. Subsequently a mortise is formed by means of a gauge with a special spade nozzle. Plunge-cutting machine GNF 20 CA (Bosch) allows you to get a hole with a width of 23 mm and a depth of 20 mm. machines DC-SE 20 (Hilti) and GNF 65 A (Bosch) at a width of 40 mm give a hole depth of 46 and 65 mm, respectively.

Vibratory sander is widely used for alignment of planes. As a rule of thumb it is oriented towards even removal of excess material, this technique ensures good surface flatness. The WFO 280 (HILTI) and GSS 230 AE, GSS 280 AE (Bosch) are equipped with an integrated dust collector that reduces dust by more than 60%. That helps prevent dust from entering the drills, which is especially important when working with plaster based materials. Construction teams often need a hammer drill for higher workloads. The important difference between this tool and a hammer drill is the lower impact force. Therefore, the main purpose of the drill is impactless drilling, which is complemented by a drill with impact function. the hammerless function ensures high accuracy of hole diameters and is used where a large number of holes for threading are required. Bosch manufactures the GSB 16 RE and GSB20-2 RE 1-speed and 2-speed impact drills.

The described list of hand tools can be described as typical, but reality makes adjustments.

It is very important to remember when buying a tool that one should not be guided only by low or high price. Evaluate the amount of work to be done and its compliance with the intended use of the tool to be purchased; you must not operate the power tool at its limits. That is why the tool should be chosen with at least 30% power reserve; the warranty service applies only to defective parts or materials of which they are made and to incorrect factory assembly.

Replacement of what wears out during operation of the tool brushes, oil seals, grease, etc.д., The power tool is not covered by the warranty; timely preventive measures significantly increase the service life of the tool;

Quality entry-level saw Stanley STHR202K 620W

Greetings, everyone who looked at the light. This review will be, as you probably guessed, the entry-level 620W Stanley STHR202K torch. This peorator bought with a small discount (45) in exchange for writing a review on it, so I’ll start with this one.18 do not specify. The review will be guts and subjective opinion after a couple of months of use, so who is interested, welcome under the hood. General view of Stanley STHR202K peorator:

kind, grease, hilti, rotary, hammer

The background of the purchase:

I want to start with the fact that I have long wanted to peoratorator, but all stifled by greed, because I wanted something reliable, and the price tag on such models start from 6000r. In addition, at home it was needed from time to time, so I always borrowed a working one or from friends. After I changed jobs, it was kind of awkward to ask friends too often, so I started looking for a suitable model. I already had a good drill MES-600ERU firm RITM, which usually replaced most of the tools (electric screwdriver, mixer, wrench, sander and peorator), but as they say, completely satisfied my requirements did not. Its main function of drilling was excellent, but it was difficult to drill concrete. If the brick was enough of a hit, then the more solid walls were not up to snuff. Somehow I noticed the tool from Stanley company GearBest, which has always been notable for its good quality, so I negotiated with the manager for a small discount of 45. It cost me a little more than 70, which was about 4000r with all the extras.

A brief description of technical parameters:. Manufacturer. Stanley. Model. STHR202K. Body. impact-resistant plastic. Power Consumption. 620W. Number of operating modes. two (drilling, drilling with impact). RPM. 0-1250 rpm. Blows per minute. 3900 beats/min. Impact energy. 1, 34 J. Type chuck. SDS Plus (10mm). Safety clutch. Present. Reverse. Absent. Power. 220V. Dimensions. 330mm210mm. Weight. 2.6kg

Accessories:. Stanley Peorator STHR202K. carrying case. side handle. drilling depth limiter. manual

Grease change for Hammer Drill FASTEST | Hilti Hammer Drill Repair | Restore old tools

The torch comes in a quality plastic case with the company logo: The case is made of soft plastic and is designed for convenient carrying and storage of the torch and associated consumables: The back side has a sticker with more detailed characteristics of the torch: As mentioned above, the case is high-quality, two-layer. The inner casting is designed to soften the shocks while carrying and has many compartments both for the torch and consumables: There are not as many compartments as I would like but there are free s where they can be easily put: I have not got a removable drill chuck yet although I do not need it, the drill clamp grease and different bits but I think they should fit in the case without problems.

The peorator is made in standard for this manufacturer’s black and yellow coloring: Do not pay attention to some wear and tear, because before writing the review it had a decent run. The main controls are located in the handle and on the left side of the housing. On the right side there is only an air outlet: The lower part of the housing has some kind of grooves for a better hold of the tool during operation: The right side of the housing has a sticker with detailed specifications of the tool: Since the entry level tool and the motor power is relatively low, there is no separate kick mode, but it would not be superfluous. In my opinion, even with low impact energy, a chisel mode would be useful. Only two modes are available: drilling and drilling with impact. They are switched with a special lever on the left side of the housing: On the right and bottom there are two holes for cooling air outlet, which is taken from the side of the handle (in the engine manifold area) and runs through the whole engine, thereby cooling it: Unfortunately, the shock-and-gear mechanism lacks cooling, although the “iron” easily withstands considerable heat and such cooling is like a bore to them. Handle is ergonomic, black plastic rubberized and a little rough to the touch, so the torch lies strongly in the hand and does not slip during work. The regulator button is wide enough to be able to turn the device on with middle or forefinger, and for long hours of work you can use the latch, which makes one with the button: The button stroke is soft enough and allows you to adjust the speed within a wide range. It is very useful feature, allowing to mark the future hole more accurately. Unfortunately there is no reverse on the torch. But since this is an entry level model and has low power, in principle, the reverse is not needed. it is indispensable for models with high power, because jamming in a wall of a meter drill for twenty is a serious problem and without the reverse you will not get it out just like that. There are, of course, “folk” methods, but we are talking about pure convenience. I used to work as an electrician and the main tool was exactly the torch, but I do not remember situations when I needed the reverser, except for jamming drills. These situations are quite common when drilling holes in reinforced concrete, especially when using not too powerful models. That’s why I don’t think the lack of reverse is a big minus in this situation. I wish it were there, but it is OK if it is not. The safety clutch is present, as it should be and allows to protect hands in case of drill jamming. Important is a swivel connection of the feeding wire with the body of the torator, as well as a protective shank, which allows you to protect the wire from breaking: Unfortunately, the plug is American, but the adapter for 10 cents will solve the problem: I think that the conversion to the euro-plug is not necessary here, because the motor power is not too high, the feeding wires are only two and the body is completely plastic, so not to spoil the appearance, it is enough to simply clamp the adapter contacts. With a higher power tool or protruding metal parts. replacement with euro-plug is mandatory, but unnecessary in this case. The cord itself is of high quality: it is long enough at 2.4 meters, moderately stiff to avoid significant cuts during production work, and inside it has two wires, one square meter each: For easy holding there is a universal side handle: Tightening is done by turning the handle clockwise. The “thumbtack” is for fixing the drilling depth stop. With the side handle, the peorator looks like this: You can turn the handle any way you want, it rotates 360°. When rotated by 90° the handle is designed so that it resembles the British STEN submachine gun of the same name from the times of WWII. I’m not used to this kind of handle, so I get by fine without it.

The layout is standard: the electronic control box is in the stick, the engine is in the rear, and the shock-and-gear mechanism is in the front. The SDS Plus chuck, which is the most typical for this type of tool. The back part of the handle is easy to remove and lets you check the brushes, change them and, if necessary, clean the brush-collector unit. This bar is attached by only three screws: once this part is removed you have free access to the most vulnerable points, namely the collector and regulator: As you can see all connections are made by means of well crimped terminals. The power cord is clamped tightly. very good protection against people who like to pull the tool by the wire. I do it myself, especially when working at height. The electronic regulator has a 6A reserve and there is a suppression capacitor to block noise from the collector: Many people probably remember that as soon as you switch on a kitchen appliance from the perestroika era. a mixer, a combine, a meat grinder, etc.д., then the screen of a kinescope TV set is disturbed. In this case, this capacitor is exactly intended to reduce these pickups. Moving on. After unscrewing four more screws you can take out the “heart” of the rotor, the shock-reducer mechanism with the motor rotor: Let’s dwell on the rotor in more detail, as the most vulnerable part of any electric tool. It is the quality of its manufacture that is primarily responsible for the service life of the tool as a whole. In our case everything is just fine: there are traces of balancing of the rotor, armored protection of the winding and roaded collector. I suggest you take a look and see for yourself: If to dwell in details, presence of balancing is a certain pledge of that bearing knots will serve longer and there will be no all sorts of run-outs, gradually putting other parts out of operation Though it is necessary to notice, that the balancing here is a little “barbarous”. just some upper part of plates is milled out. The disadvantage is that in this place the plates turned out as if short-circuited, although by design each plate is isolated from the neighboring one by means of varnish or special fine micanite gasket, or dross. This helps to reduce losses from eddy currents. But as they say, you have to choose the lesser of two evils. Without balancing, the service life of this tool would have been much shorter. If you look at the larger photo, you can see that the collector has been renewed. the micanite insulation between the lamellae to a depth of 1 mm was removed, as well as the winding connection point was filled with blue compound: This significantly increases the service life of the collector unit. over, the bearings are sealed, which has a longer service life than comparable bearings without ball protection. Considering the “dusty” application of the tool, this is a very big plus. Since the speed of the motor rotor is high, then to protect the winding a bandage in the form of a nonmagnetic wire and filling with varnish is used: This is done so that the centrifugal force does not unravel the winding, and also to protect against concrete dust, since even a small impact of concrete chips on the rotating at high speed winding can easily peel the insulation off the wire. By the way, the protection of the visible part of the windings is made on the collector side as well as on the front: You can also see the markings on the rotor, which indicates a slightly different level of quality. As mentioned, the air intake is on the manifold side and runs through the entire motor, thereby cooling it. The outlets are at the bottom and on the right: A little trick to cool the tool motor quickly that many people don’t know. just run it idle at maximum speed for a couple of minutes. A similar “fan” will blow through the windings and thereby cool the motor to an acceptable level. This is mainly for assemblers who need the rotor all the time and don’t have time to cool it down. This will greatly extend the life of any tool. On further examination of the shock-reducer module, I saw an interesting “stopper” made of dense material, somewhat similar to felt: Its purpose is not very clear to me, most likely, it protects the hole in the shock-reducer module from dust ingress. I can assume that this hole is intended to equalize pressure or add grease, but let experienced craftsmen tell you. Then we move smoothly to the stator of the electric motor. Its winding is covered with plastic plug in case of protection against fan blades and also to create necessary airflow (it is close to the “fan”): As you can notice there are stiffening ribs inside the case, that is why the stator can boast of some durability. In addition, the housing itself is made of impact-resistant plastic, so it easily withstands rough treatment. The bearing seat is cast and also has reinforcing ribs so you can forget about any shifting or wobbling. In contrast to the rotor the stator winding is not fixed in any way, there are only polyethylene stops: In my opinion it would be a good idea to have a layer of lacquer cloth wrapped around the visible part of the windings, but since they are behind the moving parts they are fine as is. Length of the brushes is a little over a centimeter, which should be enough for a long time. This is the end of my disassembly. This model left a very pleasant impression.

I have understood one thing for a long time. a drill and a rotary tool are both indispensable. A drill with a hammer function cannot fully replace a torch and is only suitable for working on bricks. Let many people claim the opposite, but even the simplest drill can solve a given task in a shorter time and without much effort. On the other hand it is very inconvenient to drill with the torch, especially small holes, so for simple drilling there is nothing better than a drill. My thought is that no matter how you spin it, these are two completely different tools designed for different tasks and they can never interchange each other. I suggest you just watch the following video and see for yourself. The principle of operation of the drill with a blow function:

The comparison, of course, is not too correct and many people do not understand it, but if we compare the structure of the impact drill and peorator, we can see the same differences between submachine guns and automatic rifles.

Subjective judgement about Stanley STHR202K peorator:

In my opinion it is a good model and well worth looking at. It feels great in the hand thanks to the rubberized grip and its light weight allows for much longer use without fatigue compared to more powerful models. There are almost no complaints about the assembly: the rotor is balanced, the collector is well-protected, windings are protected to the maximum, and electronic components are used with a small margin. Quick access to vulnerable parts and mechanisms, allowing for timely diagnosis and replacement. The case itself is also important, made of impact resistant plastic with reinforcing ribs that can withstand rough treatment. If we consider this model as an entry level, it’s not a bad choice. It is oriented for home use and does a great job with this. If you omit the tool categories, the lack of impact mode is a huge disadvantage. For installers who are used to working with “quick mounts”, it won’t be very convenient to work with. For those who don’t know, this is a fastener (dowel screw), which can be not screwed in, but simply hammered in, which is what installers use. And it is hammering with the auger in the impact mode, :-). This is just an indispensable mode when working at height. Besides, due to relatively low engine power, the impact energy is still insufficient for any serious work. In this case I meant the same production: drilling of meter high ferroconcrete walls, continuous operation, permanent dust and dirt. For this work, it is somewhat weak, but can cope with it, it needs only a little more time and effort. But for the home is just fine. I would like to remind you that most models with such power can’t provide good impact energy and therefore don’t have a separate chisel mode. Or they have one, but it is of little use. Well, anticipating some Комментарии и мнения владельцев about the price, I ask you to focus primarily on the quality of the assembly. Not all cheap models can boast this.

The store has provided a coupon STANLEYGBS, reducing the cost of the peorator to 86.99

Pros: brand, quality assurance quality impact-resistant housing good quality workmanship basic elements comfortable rubberized handle quality carrying case included a small weight

Disadvantages:. low capacity of the electric motor (low impact energy). absence of a separate mode of blow (chiselling). absence of reversing. the American plug. price

Conclusion: all the advantages and disadvantages I wrote above, so everyone decides for himself whether the game is worth the candle. I want to remind you that the review is evaluated in the first place, and not the product or where it was purchased. The main purpose of the review. as much as possible to tell about the device and some of the pitfalls, which I have tried to do. Knowing the quality of a certain company’s tools, you can quickly determine your choice and buy a suitable model elsewhere.

Repair of any device begins with accurate and careful disassembly of the unit. If the design of the unit has been poorly examined, it is better to photograph each step of the disassembly for easier reassembly in the future.

The removal of almost any malfunction involves its partial or complete disassembly. The only exception is damage to the electronic plug of the unit. Since practically all models of torches are structurally identical, their disassembly is done according to the same scheme.

Repair of the cartridge with your own hands begins after its removal from the unit. Disassemble the chuck with a flathead screwdriver after removing the working tool. When a drill bit, chisel or auger is jammed in the chuck it can sometimes be hard to get it out. If the tool becomes jammed, add a few drops of grease inside and carefully tap the chuck with a rubber mallet. After a few minutes’ pause, a second attempt to retrieve the instrument will be successful. The chuck has to be disassembled:

  • Pull the plastic skirt downwards.
  • Use a screwdriver to pick up and remove the rubber protector.
  • Carefully loosen and remove the circlip that is located behind the dust cap.
  • Then remove the plastic dust cover, locking plates, spring and balls.
  • All removed parts should be cleaned of debris and old grease.

In the process of dismantling you need to carefully inspect all the components of the cartridge to identify faulty parts. The question of how to change the cartridge on the torch is easily solved if you have a spare, fully operational part of the device. It can be replaced by completely reassembling the device after the damage has been repaired.

Next you need to disassemble the body of the peorator. The first step is to remove the unit’s operating mode switch. For this:

  • Set the switch to jackhammer mode.
  • Then turn the lever a little lower, while simultaneously pressing the button until you hear a “click”.
  • Pull up the switch and remove it from the case with a screwdriver. On some models this device can be attached with screws.
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