What kind of wood to make a handle for a hammer
Restoring a hammer. Mahogany handle.
In general. This project was a project of endless bugs, fixing bugs and generating new ones in the process of fixing.
On my last run through a flea market, namely Udelka along with goodic. I bought a little something there.
The hammer bought from the hands of a man. He wanted a hundred, but gave it away for fifty. My paternal grandfather had a hammer like this, and when I was a kid, I really wanted one. But my grandfather didn’t give it to me, and when he was gone, my father threw everything away (yeah, I didn’t make it). The guy here told me that on Vasilievsky Island there’s a place where they moved the ruins during the war, and he digs there, finds stuff and sells it. So the hammer, with some kind of history. I bought a broom for my pen, and I begged a mahogany plank from a good man. The story of how I got the wrecking ball in order is worthy of a separate post, and by popular demand I will write about it. But it was pretty bad too.
As usual, a font in solutions of trillon, a light sanding. Then another month I brought the beam to mind, and finally I decided to make a handle. We cut the board lengthwise, using a special saw for longitudinal sawing.
Jamb one: for the handle, always cut the workpiece with a margin, you can still trim it many times! With a good margin, at least 1.5 times the final length!
After that, for the first time I took the jigsaw in hand, and missed all the dimensions, so upset that I threw everything I could.
The people from the machine-chat advised to collect the chips and fill them with epoxy, once again obtaining mahogany. And the slippers shred and get black :D.But jokes aside, I sagged (it was not yet sanded).
I was sad, but the next day I pulled myself together and made a wedge. At first I tried to make a notch for the wedge with a wooden jigsaw, but I got hurt and broke the saw (you know, mahogany is very fucking hard). One more mistake. As a result I had to use a fine metal saw.
I made the wedges from a ruler, but it was too soft. I had to finish it with the remnants of the oak parquet. In the process of wedging, the handle cracked. Count the jam. One more mistake.
Then sanding, but by virtue of the fact that I buried deep enough and crooked with a hammer, I dug holes there, and they are no longer correctable, without redoing the handle. Another joint. Aside from general aesthetics, it doesn’t do much.
The shoals with cracks and sagging, except for the wedges, decided to fix it with epoxy resin. But I couldn’t find a 20-minute resin in the nearest shop for a decent price, so I had to get a four-minute resin. I poured the top without any complaints.
And here, after the striker I wanted to wrap a thread over the resin and then put more resin on top, but something went wrong, the resin hardened too quickly, the thread broke off, and on top of that I already put some more resin on almost in shreds. But all in all, the main thing is that I covered the cracks and fastened the thread.
After that, finishing with teak oil. Oooh, teak oil. full of excitement.
Despite the fact that the handle shows traces of rough sanding, sinks and pits, also carelessly made girdle, the hammer looks really cool and kosher. And enough of it for my grandchildren for sure.
The redwood fascinates me, it’s not the first time I’ve encountered it, but it’s too beautiful. The disadvantages include the fact that even sawing it without a respirator is impossible, it hurts your throat and coughs. Only with a muzzle. Very hard, but it’s fun to work with.
Why I did not redo everything? Very simple: every step has taught me something, in fact, a similar hammer can be bought ready-made, but the experience I gained. You can’t buy one.
I would like to thank goodic for the workpiece and zhalmenov for helping me get my hammers in order.
How to attach the hammer
How to set the hammer?– Not everyone knows how to do it right now. I have to confess, that I used any kind of hammers myself before. I had no time to do everything properly, and a hammer wasn’t needed very often. And now, in retirement, I have a lot of free time, I do some repairing all the time, that’s why I try to keep my tools in order. There are hammers on sale, where the handle is made of metal or some synthetic material and there is no need to put it on. But traditional hammers with wooden handles are still very popular. It’s not just that they are much cheaper. Wood. material is light, and it is very important for a hammer to have a light handle and a heavy tool head. Then the force of the blow will be much greater. Besides, every person has his or her own anthropometric peculiarities. Industrial hammers are made for an average person, and may be too big for a small person, but for a giant it may be too big. small. Using a home-made wooden handle you can adjust the hammer to your hand: the thickness of the handle will be such that it is convenient to hold, and its length corresponds to the length of the master hand. A real master’s tool is always in order. It is especially important to observe this rule when you have to work with this tool often. To hammer a couple of nails a year is also possible with a bad hammer, with a handle all loose and dangling. But if a hammer is one of your most essential tools, it should be in perfect condition. With this simple tool, you can not only damage your finger if you miss the nail head or the butt end of the chisel, but also cause serious injury to yourself and others around you if the striking part suddenly comes off the handle. And it is not uncommon for a hammer to be on the wrong handle. I’ve looked on the Internet for many pictures of a hammer and I have not found one that shows it is mounted properly.
(You can see on the picture what happens if the hammer is not placed correctly.).
So here we will tell you how to put the hammer on the handle correctly. The first thing to keep in mind is that not all wood is suitable for the handle of a hammer. What kind of wood you need for the handle of the hammer?. Tree species with easily prickly wood like spruce, pine, aspen, alder, and the like should be definitely excluded from the list of those suitable for the handle of a hammer. But an ordinary birch. not straight but twisted. is quite suitable for this purpose. (By the way, according to GOST 231077 “Locksmith hammers steel. It is allowed to make hammers handles from hornbeam, maple, mountain ash, dogwood, ash, oak, beech and birch of the 1st sort). That’s why you may take not so thick birch branch (twice or three times thicker than the handle itself) and cut blanks for hammer handle from it. If the branch is taken from a live tree, then the piece should be well dried. It is better to dry in a natural way, putting several pieces at once somewhere in the shade, but in a well-ventilated place. In the countryside it can be a regular pile of firewood, together with which the blanks for the handles will perfectly dry for about a month (in summer). In urban areas you can put the blanks for the handles on the balcony. Drying with any heating devices (for example, on the radiator) wood is not necessary, otherwise it can do so crack. A great handle for a hammer can be made from a broken wooden hockey stick, which uses very strong and hard wood. Why is it important for the wood you intend to use to make your hammer handle to be dry?? – It’s very simple: when any wood dries, it decreases in size (water evaporates and quite naturally, the body volume decreases). So a hammer handle that is not well dried will inevitably dry out over time and no matter what wedges you hammer into it, the hammer head will still hang loose on the handle and may eventually come off of it. What shape should the handle of the hammer be?. The already mentioned GOST (State Standard Specification) provides for three different designs of the handle of the hammer (see the picture).But it also stipulates that it is allowed to produce other ergonomically convenient shapes of handles. So, if you decided to make a handle by yourself, you can take these options as a basis, or make it according to your own project. The main thing is to have a comfortable handle and not to slip out of your hand when hitting with a hammer.
When making the handle you should take into account that the blank for it should be at least 5 cm longer than necessary. It should taper towards the end where the hammer head sits. How to get the head of the hammer right on the handle?. The hole in the head of the hammer is slightly larger at both “entrances” than in the middle. So, the size of the handle blank at the thinnest end should match the size of the hole in the middle of the hammer head. Be sure to check how well the hole for the handle is made in the hammer head itself. Pay close attention to
The process of putting the handle on the hammer
Often the hole size of the hammer head at the top and bottom inlets is slightly wider than in the middle. Thus, the dimensions of the workpiece for the handle in the thin end part should correspond to the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the tool’s striking part. It is imperative to check that the handle hole on the striker is well made with the tool. You can see how it is done in the photo.
Here is the beater of an old hammer, which needs preliminary machining. Without these treatments it would be impossible to fit the handle. Paying attention to the picture we can see that the casting of the striker was made rather badly, there are big metal bumps and irregularities, every entrance to the holes on the both sides is 6-8 mm different than in the striker centre.
To correct all defects and irregularities it is necessary to machine the inside and outside of the hammer head with a file. Then insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the striker to get the dimensions correctly adjusted. The handle tip should be at the same level as the other side of the striker. If the handle is thicker than the corresponding holes, then it should be sanded so that the element is inserted into the hole of the hammer with a certain tension.
Because we are obtaining a gentle taper at the end of the handle, the hammer head will be drawn tighter as it dives deeper into the head of the hammer. It is worth mentioning that during this process, it is important to take into account that the striker on the handle is not skewed and is set at right angles.
Because of its weight, the striker part of the hammer will slowly slide onto the expanding cone of the handle under the influence of its weight. In this case, beating with hammers or hard objects on the back side in the handle is categorically not recommended, as it will lead to its splitting. This method may be used only when a non-metallic striker (wooden or plastic) is used, such as for a mallet.
Once the head of the hammer is firmly seated, and no more movement of the handle in the striking part can be observed, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part with a hacksaw blade, having previously stepped half a centimeter above the striking head. This is why it is necessary to use a longer workpiece.
Mallet size and weight
The tool is used in a wide range of applications, which leads to variations in parameters depending on the work task. Heavy models weigh more than 900 g. Standard. 450-900 g. Lightweight. 225-450 g.
It is difficult to tell the weight by looking at it. Some miniature models are actually heavier than the large mallet. Some products have a lead inserted in the striker, for more effective striking.
The length of the handle determines the striking force. The longer it is, the harder the instrument hits. Standard parameters of a mallet: weight 300 g, length 30 cm.
Powerful application of a mallet
The use of a wooden mallet extends to many applications. Most often, a mallet is used in carpentry, where it is used with a chisel or chisel. Dimensions and weight of the tool used in this industry can vary significantly. In addition to the usual hammer design, the mallet can be turned (lathed), and used in shape cutting in wood.
No less widespread, the tool has received in locksmithing. The mallet is used when it is necessary to tear from place a jammed item, or to straighten dents in the sheet metal. A wooden hammer with a round beater is used for such works. Rubber mallets are less effective in locksmithing, as they have a less clear blow, unlike the wooden ones.
Assembly and disassembly of furniture, also did not avoid this loyal tool, where it is used for a tight connection of parts with a decorative surface. Kiyanka (or a hammer without inertia) greatly facilitates the laying of paving tiles, when you want to ram the object in the adhesive solution. These are not all of the areas where such a device can be used. If you have discerned the potential of this tool, then the instruction awaits you, how to make a mallet with your own hands out of wood.
Handle for a sledgehammer with his own hands
Very easy to make wooden handle for a sledgehammer, it is considered to be the least inertial and the most durable if you choose the right material. The most suitable species of wood for handles, are birch, elm, mountain ash, maple or ash. It is desirable that the starting material should be sawn, not sawn and have no knots. It is also possible to take an ordinary block, but its durability will be lower. The handle length depends on your requirements, but on average 600-800 mm is enough for the striker with the weight of 3-4 kg.
The first and the most important step in the process of making a handle for a sledgehammer with your own hands, will be roughing the billet with plane, axe or other suitable tool. The thickness of handle should smoothly increase from the beginning (place of grip) to the end (place of striker fastening), which size should be a little bit bigger than the size of the hole in the striker to be put on it. For maximum durability, the handle should have a stiffening rib, so its shape should be oval, not round.
Here is the traditional method of attaching the hammer properly and firmly to the handle.
So, now let’s proceed to the process itself.
- First of all you need to grind the upper tip of the wooden handle so that it fits into the hole of the hammer.
- You need to wrap a piece of previously prepared rubber around the sharpened handle tip.
- Now lubricate the outer layer of rubber with lithol or other grease. You can hold the rubber in place with your hand or use a rubber gum to hold it in place during the process.
- The head of the hammer is put on the handle with the rubber pad.
- Now you need to tap the loose end of the hammer on a wooden board or other hard surface. This will keep the hammer firmly in place on the handle. This will happen because under the force of its own weight the percussion part of the tool will be more strongly seated on the handle. The movements can be stopped as soon as you notice that the hammer stops moving down the handle.
- The excess rubber on the top and bottom is cut off.
- You will also need to cut off the protruding part of the handle. The tip of the handle should be flush with the outlet of the hammer.
- For the final step, you will need PVA glue.
Any gaps left between the handle and the head of the hammer are filled in with glue. Once dry, the PVA glue will prevent moisture.
At this point the process of putting the hammer on the wooden handle can be considered complete.
You can also use this method if you want to put an axe or a sledgehammer on the handle. But you can not use this method for putting the wooden striker part of the tool on the same wooden handle.
“About the handles of the hammer and the head.”. Hammer and plastering hammer, wooden handle, fiberglass handle and metal handle.
Today we’ll end our earlier conversation about hammers, without forgetting to focus on the various handles and heads.
Roofing hammer differs from others in that, first, in some versions of these heads are covered with a special varnish that protects the tool from corrosion, and, secondly, the holder. magnetic. This allows you to “stick” the nail to the tool, and the roofer can hammer nails with one hand. In addition, there is a projection on the head of the roofer’s tool. This is used to puncture holes in the roofing material.
When performing roofing work, special roofing and plastering hammers are used. On the head of the crate hammer has a point, which is used to mark points in which later will be hammered nails. The plastering hammer has a bifurcated head that allows nails to be driven. For hammering nails can be used and plastering axe, which has a head designed for this “operation.
The handle of the hammer is as “important” as the head. They are made of different materials. The most “popular” is wood. Among the woods used to produce this part of the hammer. Ash, mountain ash, maple, young oak, birch and hickory (American walnut). Hammer handles are not made of coniferous wood. Neither can they be made of raw wood. Among all listed wood species used in production, the hickory is the most preferable, and this will be said a bit later.
the handle is thickened on the opposite side to the striker. This is done so that the hand of the master does not slip. But for all its advantages, wood has a disadvantage. As a rule, wooden handle can crack or break at the joint with the head (it does not “threaten” to do that with hickory handle). Therefore, there is a high probability of injury, both to the craftsman himself and to people nearby. In addition, over time, the part on which the head is mounted “loosens. You have to wedge the handle periodically to keep it from coming off. As for the hickory handle, like others made of wood, it can break, but it only breaks along the grain, which means that such a hammer does not injure the master.
The wooden handle is attached to the head by means of a metal wedge that we have already mentioned. For greater fastening rigidity a ring wedge can be used. But if we approach the matter “scientifically”, then the wedge can also be a reliable attachment. To do this, you need to dry the handle and then soak it in oil. After that it is “driven” into the head hole with the help of hydraulic equipment, fixing the construction with one wooden and two metal wedges. In this case the hammer will serve faithfully for a long time.
For many years (and centuries) hammers were made only with a wooden handle, but then the wood was replaced by new materials. One of them is fiberglass. English.).
This material. None other than fiberglass, to which we have paid enough attention in our time. Let’s not repeat ourselves and speak about the properties of this material. Those who have “participated” in our conversations about fiberglass should remember its virtues. Fiberglass handles are quite strong and lightweight. The center of gravity of a hammer with a fiberglass handle is not the same as with a wooden handle. When working with such a tool, one has the feeling that the hammer itself reaches for the nail. To soften the blow, there is a pad on it. It is an undeniable advantage that the head does not break off. This is achieved through an unusual attachment: they are bonded with epoxy resin.
In addition to fiberglass, graphite is also used in the production of handles for hammers. These handles are lightweight and very sturdy. These handles are in the same row with the ones made of fiberglass.
Make A Hammer Handle From Scratch, Part I
The metal handle is considered the most reliable. But the full-body handle has a “solid” weight, which complicates the work of the master. Hollow handles weigh much less and are popular with professionals (though there are “old timers” who would not trade a hammer with a wooden handle for anything). Hollow handles are chrome-plated and lacquered. Many versions of these handles have a rubber coating. Handle is pressed to the head securely.
Since we are talking about the handle, it would be a shame not to pay attention to the handle as well. Much, if not everything, in the work of the hammer depends on the quality of metal of which the head is made. If this part of the bridge is made of soft metal, nothing good can be expected: the head is flattened, dents from nail heads and burrs appear on it. But a head that is too hard is not an indication of its excellent workmanship either. On the contrary, chunks may break off from the head made of hard metal when an impact is made. And it would be half the trouble if such unpleasantness only spoils the appearance of milk. Often, chipped pieces of metal threaten the health of the craftsman and those around him. It is probably not necessary to speak about what the situation can lead to when a splintered piece of metal gets into the eye. But. Let’s not talk about sad things. If the head of the hammer is forged and the ends (blunt and sharp) are hardened separately, nothing will upset the craftsman.
Now, after acquaintance with nails and hammers, we would like to say a few words about the nuances that may arise at the moment of hammering. With the story about these nuances and ways of solving the problems we will begin our next conversation, after which we will move on to the conversation about other metal fasteners.
In this article photos of websites: centuri, remont-control, str02, stroyvektor, etallon, smremont
The hammer in the house is the first tool. It can hammer a nail, crack a nut, and deburr a wire. It is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by a high level of progress, so for each activity it is easy to find the most effective tool. If you are engaged in locksmith work, you will need a locksmith’s hammer. No master can do without this percussive tool.
The purpose of a locksmith’s hammer
Mankind has known and used a hammer a long time ago. at the dawn of time. This is the very first tool of labor, as well as a weapon of primitive man at the same time. People in the process of their development improved and changed the hammer. Materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in this sequence: bone. wood. bronze.
The design of hammers today has not changed: the butt plate, the striking part with the striker and the handle. The striker and the handle are connected through a hole in the body and a wedge driven into the handle. The tail can be of various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead, and rubber. The handle is usually of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many kinds of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, locksmiths, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers: copper hammers, sledgehammers, straightening hammers, carpenter’s hammers, mason’s hammers and locksmith’s hammers.
It is the latter, the locksmith’s hammer with a round beater, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to extend, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, to deliver a vigorous blow to the desired point, to help another tool. a chisel, a chisel, a puncher.
It is convenient to use it for various works: to bend, to chop, to rivet, to straighten, to punch holes, to hammer and to flatten. Locksmith hammer to drive nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, shape metal tubes.
Construction of a locksmith’s hammer
A locksmith’s hammer differs from an ordinary hammer in that it has two different beats in its design. a flat one, which is intended for hammering nails, and a tapered one to the end, which is convenient for breaking different objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down and not oblique surface of the striker, without a build-up, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square beater is cheaper, so this species is widely used in locksmith practice for light work. A hammer with a round striker has one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear part, which provides greater accuracy and force of impact.
The force of the blow through the locksmith hammer depends on the severity level of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is controlled by man, and the severity of the workpiece is controlled by the manufacturer. The striker part of the tool is made of heat treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. For the handle are used predominantly hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and have a length of at least 250 millimeters for hammers. Locksmith hammers have a weight of 0.4 to 0.8 kilograms.
Making a locksmith’s hammer
The locksmith’s hammer has one vulnerable point, the section of the hammer handle that is located under the striker. When hammering pins, nails, wedges there are problems, especially at the initial stage of their fastening, craftsmen often miss the target and usually hit the nail not with the striker, but with this part of the handle.
This can cause chipping and potholes on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, fly off the handle, or break. And buying a locksmith hammer does not guarantee the opposite, because in the locksmith hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in the axes.
Of course, in retail outlets and construction stores you can find hammers with plastic or metal handles that do not have the problem of attaching the head, but the traditional locksmith hammers are those with a wooden handle. In addition, they sit more securely in the hand and warmer to the touch.
So today we will make a locksmith’s hammer with its own hands with a wooden handle. Remember, all you need to do is to get a firm and solid grip on it once and it will work without any problems.
Handle of a locksmith’s hammer
So, let’s start with making a handle for the locksmith’s hammer. First, let’s talk about dimensions: the handle should have an oval cross section, approximately 250 to 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly to the end, which will be set on the head of the tool. The best grip is made of beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or mountain ash. It is absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily prickly wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often handles for locksmith hammers are made of birch wood. To do this you need a small board from which you need to carve the shape of the handle in accordance with the technological card of the locksmith hammer production, after which it should be well sanded with a construction sandpaper.
If you plan a handle from a thick birch branch it is necessary to dry it in a warm, well ventilated and shady place. Do not think about drying the wood with artificial heat sources like calorifiers, electric fireplaces or radiators, because the wood will inevitably get cracked and lose its strength.
If the wood handle for the locksmith’s hammer is not dry enough, it will dry out over time and shrink in volume. And so the head will be hanging on it, constantly trying to come off the handle of the hammer. To make the handle even smoother, it is advisable to coat it with a special furniture varnish. That’s it, the handle for the locksmith’s hammer is ready, you can go to the next step.
Connecting the head to the handle
After making the handle, you must insert its thin end into the hole in the tool head. The ideal is the fit of the head of the locksmith hammer on the handle with a certain force, or “with a stretch”, as masters used to say.
If the handle is too thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp and then with sandpaper. The end of the handle of the locksmith’s hammer should eventually be a flat cone. Place the head of the lock hammer on the handle and make sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle firmly vertically with the head of the hammer up, and tap the wide back end of the handle against a hard surface, from top to bottom. The head of the locksmith hammer with each stroke slowly but surely fits on the expanding handle, hardening more and more on it. At the following blows, the immobility of the head of the tool indicates that it is firmly “seated” on the handle.
Unclamping the handle of the hammer
There are several methods of making a locksmith’s hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make your own locksmith hammer wedges. Prepare a place for the wooden wedge. To he did not go to the side, and the handle is not spoiled, make a narrow chisel notch that has a depth of about 5 millimeters, at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the locksmith hammer 30 degrees.
Wooden wedge is a wedge that is about 3 millimeters thick, about 15 millimeters wide and 30. 50 millimeters long. The wedge should taper gently toward the front, but the end should be blunted.
After you drive the wooden wedge 15-20 mm into the handle of the slide hammer saw, saw off the top part of the handle that protrudes from the head of the hammer with a fine toothed hacksaw so that it protrudes over the head at least 2-3 mm.
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wooden wedge, but make it shorter. no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that is close to half a centimeter thick. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and hammer it into the handle at the same acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer of 30 degrees, but from the centerline on the other side.
Once you have completely hammered the metal wedge “flush” into the handle of the hammer the work of building the locksmith’s hammer is complete. Then you should put the locksmith’s hammer for 5 hours in water to let the wood swell. The nail hammer will not wobble as the wood dries.
Using a nail hammer
Hammering a nail into a board with a locksmith’s hammer is not such an easy task, even if it seems so at first sight. If you have made a bad hammer, then under it will break the surface and appear dents, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To hammer a nail, make sure it goes into the work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 strokes.
For the joint to be strong, the nail should enter at least one-third of the work surface. Drive the nails into each other at an angle, for a stiff joint. The board will not split, if the nail will have a diameter no larger than one-fourth of its thickness. If you will drive a nail into a thin board, first bite off the tip with a pair of wire cutters, which can tear and split the wood. It is easier to hammer nails into wet wood with a nail file than into dry wood.
When hammering a nail into dry wood, use pliers to hold the middle of the nail so it doesn’t bend against the dry wood. Boards, which are about 10-12 centimeters wide, are fastened with one nail, wide boards are nailed with two nails. If you need to nail several nails, then arrange them in a staggered order in several rows, not in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for nailing human fingers is a wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper that is folded in half.