What to make a gasket for a chainsaw cylinder

How to disassemble a chainsaw: step-by-step process with photos and video

Complete coverage of the design of the multifaceted mechanism based on a two-stroke internal combustion engine. From the air filter cover, to the crankcase oil seals. Conducting a complete, step-by-step disassembly of the gasoline saw system, screw by screw, on a concrete example. For informativeness and compression, the purpose of each part is described in two words. The following photo and video instructions, will show the principle of fastening of each detail, with the nuances of different models.

The technical complexity of any mechanism can be measured relatively accurately by the number of parts interacting in it. The effectiveness of repair and maintenance tools, depends on understanding the task of each element, but to follow the step-by-step instructions, it is enough to know the individual terms. The following list, complete with a picture, popularly demonstrates what a chainsaw consists of, with a description of the purpose of the main parts in one brief phrase (where necessary).

  • The fuel tank casing is the base for installing the mechanism and controls.
  • Shock absorber plug.
  • A special screw. a shock absorber retainer.
  • Rubber shock absorber. 1 of 4 installed.
  • The throttle trigger is the control element of the carburetor throttle.
  • The throttle rod. the curved rod that connects the carburetor to the trigger.
  • Air valve. supplies air into the tank when the fuel volume decreases.
  • Fuel filter.
  • Fuel tank hose. transfers fuel from the tank to the carburetor.
  • Air filter cover.
  • Air filter. protects carburettor from dirt.
  • Cylinder head.
  • Lever. adjusts the position of the carburetor choke.
  • Carburetor is a device that pumps air-fuel mixture into the combustion chamber.
  • Insulator. effective seal between carburetor and engine.
  • Carburetor Elbow. connecting component.
  • Spark plug. supplies the spark to the combustion chamber.
  • Cylinder. the main part of the engine casing.
  • Silencer. reduces noise, dampens sparks, and directs exhaust away from the operator.
  • Ignition coil (magneto) produces an electrical impulse that is transmitted to the spark plug.
  • Ignition switch. closes and opens contacts on coil.
  • knob.
  • Flywheel. balances clutch, pre-clears air and generates charge in coil.
  • Bearing. secures crankshaft to crankcase.
  • The left crankcase housing. part of the basis for securing the engine and moving elements of the mechanism.
  • Piston.
  • Piston shaft. connecting the piston to the crankshaft.
  • Crankshaft. converts reciprocating piston motion into rotation.
  • Oil suction hose. which connects the oil reservoir to the pump.
  • Crankcase housing right.
  • Oil pump. pumps oil from reservoir to chain as sprocket rotates.
  • Clutch drum. first element of chain contact.
  • Clutch. transmits rotation to drum when revs are increased.
  • Chain brake handle.
  • Bus cover. hides clutch and oil pump (includes tensioning mechanism).
  • Chain catcher-wraps or engages chain if it breaks.
  • Starter. mechanism for manually turning the crankshaft, to create a spark and start the engine.
make, gasket, chainsaw, cylinder

The components shown above give a complete picture of the construction of a standard chain saw. Most parts consist of several smaller parts, but they should be disassembled individually only when repairing a particular assembly. To get to the engine, the elements can be removed in groups, without disassembling the tire cover or the starter by the screws. If you want to get a more complete picture of the chainsaw‘s components, or to learn about all the components of an individual part, with the complete list.

Types of car engine gaskets

As already mentioned, the shape of the gasket, as well as the material of manufacture, depends directly on the environment in which this element will have to be and what function it will perform.

Evidently, this type of gasket is a cylinder head gasket, which is conventionally even a part of the combustion chamber, it also has channels for the movement of coolant and lubricant.

According to the form of manufacture, the gaskets are designed for different planes that adhere to each other. It is important to note that for different types of internal combustion engines manufacturers use all sorts of unique parts.

This means that the gaskets are not interchangeable on different engines, that is to buy for their repair only those elements that are suitable for a particular model of this or that power unit. Let’s dwell on the different types of car gaskets for the engine in more detail.

The cylinder-head gasket

This part is installed where the cylinder block and the cylinder head meet. This gasket is a very difficult gasket to install because it is located where the fluid passages of the engine cooling and lubrication system. It also acts as a gasket for the combustion chamber by holding high pressure and generating high temperatures.

As you can see, such conditions are very unfavorable, because there is a contact with the engine oil and coolant, there are constant temperature and pressure variations. the cylinder-head gasket is obviously made of special wear-resistant and heat-resistant materials in order to maintain its performance under such loads.

Today it is customary to divide such gaskets into two types depending on the material. Cylinder head gaskets can be

As for metal cylinder-head gaskets, this type of product is the most common. The gasket is laminated, made of thin sheet steel, copper alloys, etc.п. The areas that seal the adjacent surfaces are usually additionally coated with special compounds that resemble dense rubber. It provides the maximum sealing effect.

Why do we need a cylinder-head gasket?

The cylinder-head gasket between the cylinder block and the cylinder head cylinder head can be made of various materials: aluminum, copper, paronite, etc. Regardless of the material, it performs one function. to provide leak tightness between the adjoining elements.

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The cylinder-head gasket works under extreme conditions, both temperature and chemical. The engine temperature, depending on the season and mode of operation, is constantly changing. In winter during parking it can fall to minus values, and in summer rises above several hundred degrees Celsius. In addition to the constant temperature changes, the cylinder-head gasket is exposed to aggressive fluids such as antifreeze and engine oil.

The cylinder-head gasket can fail because of the harsh operating conditions, most often with a puncture. In such a situation, there is only one way to solve the problem. complete replacement of the cylinder-head gasket.

Material of the cylinder head

On passenger cars, the engine block head is usually made of aluminum alloy by casting in a die casting or under pressure.

make, gasket, chainsaw, cylinder

In the case of heavy engines (diesel engines), the cylinder head is made of cast iron. In such engines, the valve seats are cooled and then pressed in. cylinder-head cylinder heads contain passages for gases, coolant, oil, and bolt holes for securing the cylinder head to the cylinder block.

To attach the head to the cylinder block you use power bolts and studs with nuts. The head gasket is used to seal the. Tightening the bolts of the block head is carried out in a certain sequence in the order recommended by the manufacturer.

Necessary materials

This is what you can make a gasket for the carburetor:

Here is a basic list of materials suitable for the manufacture of gaskets.

Unfortunately, not always these materials are at the hand of the motorist, but cardboard is available to all and in large quantities. It must be thick and have a thickness of about 0.8-1 mm. This is the most common material for car enthusiasts who have decided to acquire car mechanic skills. Yes, and not always it is possible to perform the required work at the first time, the work is quite thin, you can spoil more than one blank, wasting expensive and scarce materials, and cardboard is always on hand and in quality, made of it pads, very good.

Making rubber washers with the use of the chamfer

The second quite affordable way to make the gaskets with their own hands. It is necessary to have a punching, with which the cutting itself is carried out. In this way you can make pads of very different diameters, which is determined by a set of sizes slits.

What is the punching

This product, made by their own hands from small diameter pipe waste and a length of about 100 to 200 millimeters. Their diameters are chosen according to the size of the pads that will be made.

Strip cutters for making rubber gaskets

The bevel can be made either on the outside of the tube or on the inside. The solution depends on adjusting to the appropriate gasket diameter (outside and inside). This will be the place where the cutting edge will cut out the gasket.

Some kind of boss should be welded or strained on the other end of the tube (you can use, for example, a nut with an inner diameter the size of the tube).

It is necessary so that you can confidently hold the tool in your hand when making the cut. When installing the boss, make sure you keep a through channel in the tube. This will be helpful in pushing the rubber out as you cut.

Here is a variant when making rubber gaskets without the help of an impact tool (hammer). If you want to knock out the gaskets with a blow, then it is advisable to harden the cutting edges. This will extend their useful life. If you do not harden the tool, you will just have to sharpen it more often.

Make the right set of cutters for the different diameters that are most commonly used in the job. This is done once and then used over a long period of time. The only thing that is done periodically is the sharpening of cutting edges.

Getting the job done

The procedure for cutting out a gasket using a notch is as follows:

  • Select a slot of the desired size according to the outside diameter of the gasket;
  • lay the rubber plate from which the cutting will be made on a level base;
  • set the punching point vertically to the cutting surface and rotate it by applying a medium force until the gasket is cut out completely along its outer diameter;
  • remove the semi-finished gasket from the notch, using the through channel in it;
  • Take the second notch with a diameter equal to the inner size of the gasket;
  • install it in the same way on the semi-finished gasket, keeping exactly the same distance from the edge along the perimeter (this will ensure the uniform width of the supporting part of the gasket);
  • with fingers of your free hand rotate the notch and make the final cut.

If you perform the production of rubber gaskets in this sequence, you will end up with a quality product.

What else you should know

Periodically sharpen the slots by sharpening the edges. This will ensure easy cutting and quality gasket edges. The optimum thickness of rubber that can be used to cut these gaskets in this manner is one to two millimeters.

For the punching, it is better to use tubes of strong steel. stainless steel or galvanized. It should be said that the larger the diameter of the gasket to be cut, the more time it takes to cut and sharpen the kerf.

It also requires more force to do the job. Therefore, it is best to use this method to make gaskets no larger than one inch in size.

Blitz tips and recommendations

Replace the gasket of the carburetor or make it from cardboard is not difficult, but it should be very responsible to the selection of material, as well as the accuracy of manufacturing this part. After replacing the product, the carburetor is installed on the engine and a test run of the engine is performed, the result of which will be clear how properly all the repair operations have been performed.

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Not everyone knows that the installation gaskets for a Solex carburetor are its very important and integral part. The thing is that on the bottom plane of the Solex there are open channels and openings of its individual systems. For normal work they should be tightly and hermetically closed from the bottom. and this role is performed by the gaskets, which in the norm should be 3:. a thick ( 5-10 mm) and mechanically strong gasket with two identical round holes (in no case with one oval ! );. a thin elastic gasoline-resistant gasket with 2 identical holes (by no means with one oval ! );. a thin elastic gasket with one oval hole (a second one with two holes may be put instead). The gaskets are installed in the following order: first the thin one with an oval hole is put on the intake manifold, then the thick one, and then the thin one with two holes. And then we install the carburetor itself. By the way, a very important part is to tighten the 4 mounting nuts on the carb. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM IN NO WAY ON THE WHOLE DURING OR ATTURNING ON A HOT ENGINE ! The alloy of which the carb is made, is very plastic and simply “leaks”. the bottom plane of the carb is simply bent in an arc and the pads no longer fit tightly to it. And it affects first of all. on efficiency, wild overrun of gasoline begins at once.

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Quick and urgent repairs made in a hurry, often ends with unpredictable results, changing the initial idea of the device and the availability, available in our use of technology.

All the same our assumption about the insignificance of a similar problem, often leads us to a deadlock, and sometimes even scares us from the possibility of self-repair or from the desire to uncover the cause of the malfunction.

When opening the carburetor of a faulty lawnmower, you can identify the source that led to the malfunction as a whole, or you can wash, purge and reassemble all the assembled elements into one product and continue to scratch your scratched nape, suspecting that something is wrong. Where it doesn’t?

The fuel pump diaphragm usually has no visible damage, and it is not worth looking for anything on it, because it is very well visible when the carburetor was installed and how long it has been running.

The metering chamber diaphragm is in good condition when it shows no signs of mechanical damage and retains its elasticity.

Dispensing chamber fuel valve, referred to in our parlance as the fuel needle, should open easily when the control lever is lightly depressed.

Significant wear at the heel of the lever from the metering chamber diaphragm pusher can be seen with a detailed inspection. Wear and tear does not particularly affect the performance of the fuel valve, but is more an indication of some technical faults of the mating elements when the diaphragm pusher rests against the heel of the fixed control lever.

  • Fuel valve in the metering chamber may be wedged when closed. The diaphragm pusher needs more force to push the valve lever. The extra frictional forces generated between the diaphragm tappet and the heel of the lever, increase the wear at the point of contact.
  • If in the example just described the cause of wear on the heel of the fuel valve control lever was the valve seizing in its seat, in the other case significant wear occurs with our intervention or with careless assembly, when the heel of the lever is bent slightly upwards.

It is worth mentioning that the stiffness of the spring is also important, as it must hold the valve closed and not prevent the valve from opening easily and freely when the diaphragm pusher acts on the lever.

The operation of the carburetor, and the entire engine, depends on the state of the pulse channel, on its tightness, preserving the integrity of the channel for the passage of the pulse from the engine crankcase to the supramembrane cavity of the carburetor fuel pump, which is easier to call a pulse pump, but here to anyone as convenient.

The strength of the pulse depends on the condition of the crankshaft seals and the condition of the piston rings. Tightness of the channel is ensured by the state of the fuel pump membrane and the tight fit of the mating surfaces of the mating parts of the carburetor and its nozzle, the carburetor nozzle and the piston chamber cylinder, the cylinder and the engine crankcase.

Blitz tips and tricks

To replace the carburetor gasket or to make it from cardboard is not difficult, but you should be very responsible for the selection of material, as well as the accuracy of manufacture of this part. After replacing the product, the carburetor is installed on the engine and a test run of the engine is performed, as a result of which it will be clear how correctly all the repair operations have been performed.

Not everyone knows that the installation gaskets under the Solex carburetor are its very important and integral part. The fact is that on the bottom plane of the Solex there are open channels and openings of its individual systems. For normal operation they must be tightly and hermetically closed from below. and this role is performed by the gaskets, which normally should be 3:. a thick ( 5-10 mm) and mechanically strong gasket with 2 identical round holes (in no case with one oval ! The gaskets are installed in the following order:. a thin, flexible, petroleum-resistant gasket with two identical round holes (never with an oval hole). a thin, flexible, petroleum-resistant gasket with two identical round holes (never with an oval hole) ! );. a thin elastic gasket with one oval hole (you can put the second one with two holes instead of the thin one). The gaskets are installed in the following order: first the thin one with an oval hole is put on the intake manifold, then the thick one, and then the thin one with two holes. And then we install the carburetor. By the way, very significant moment is the tightening of the 4 nuts fixing the carb. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM AT ALL OR DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM ON A HOT ENGINE ! The alloy from which the carb is made, is very plastic and simply “flows”. the bottom plane of the carb just bends in an arc and the gaskets stop fitting tightly to it. In the first place, it affects economical efficiency. you start overconsumption of petrol.

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Quick and urgent repairs made in haste often end with unpredictable results, changing the initial idea of the device and the availability, available in our use of technology.

Our assumption about insignificance of the similar problem often leads us into a dead end and sometimes even scares us from the possibility of self-repair or from the desire to discover the reason of malfunction.

After opening the carburetor of the faulty lawnmower you can determine the source that led to the fault in general, or you can wash, purge and reassemble all the assembled elements into one product and continue to scratch your scratched head, suspecting that something is wrong. And where it’s not so?

The diaphragm of the fuel pump usually has no visible damage, and it is not worth looking for anything on it, because it is very well visible when the carburetor was installed and how long it has been running.

metering chamber diaphragm, on the other hand, is in good condition when it shows no signs of mechanical damage and retains its elasticity.

The valve in the fuel system of the metering chamber, referred to in our parlance as the fuel needle, should open easily when the control lever is lightly depressed.

Significant wear at the heel of the lever from the metering chamber diaphragm pusher can be seen upon detailed inspection. Wear does not particularly affect fuel valve operation, but rather indicates some technical faults of the mating elements when the diaphragm pusher rests against the heel of the fixed control lever.

  • The fuel valve in the dosing chamber may be blocked when closed. more force is needed for the diaphragm pusher to push against the valve lever. Additional frictional forces generated between the diaphragm pusher and the heel of the lever, increasing wear at the point of contact.
  • If in the example just described the cause of wear of the heel of the fuel valve control lever was seizing of the valve in its seat, in the other case significant wear is caused by our intervention or by careless assembly, when the heel of the lever is bent slightly upwards.

It should be mentioned that the stiffness of the spring, which should reliably keep the valve closed and, at the same time, not prevent the easy and free opening of the valve when acting on its lever by the diaphragm pusher, is also important.

The work of the carburetor, and the entire engine depends on the state of the pulse channel, on its tightness, preserving the integrity of the channel for the passage of the pulse from the engine crankcase to the supramembrane cavity of the carburetor fuel pump, which is easier to call a pulse pump, but here, to some as convenient.

The strength of the pulse depends on the condition of the crankshaft oil seals and the condition of the piston rings. Tightness of the channel is provided by the state of the fuel pump membrane and the tight fit of the mating surfaces of the mating parts of the carburetor and its nozzle, carburetor nozzle and piston chamber cylinder, cylinder and engine crankcase.

The gasket on the carburetor with his hands

Material? Where to find? As far as I remember, you can use paronite for this purpose. You choose a certain thickness, use punches to “create” the holes. Can be cut with a pair of scissors. Heat resistant. Used on sovdepov cars in garages

The fact that I have at least two gaskets on a Solex carburetor And one you can say divides the carburetor in half and many make it out of cardboard, but it also costs pennies in the store.

And the gasket that separates the carburetor from the manifold is probably made of paronite.

And indeed such a gasket to buy is not easy. My car came from the factory without this gasket. I had one insert and only then did I order such a gasket from the factory.

That’s it in principle can be done by yourself from paronite and this was done in my eyes. And this process is not complicated, the main thing that you have the right piece of paronite.

Numerous gaskets and washers can be rubber or cardboard, and paronite is also used for this purpose, which is used in those places where the temperature conditions of the unit, does not allow the operation of rubber or paper parts. In addition, textolite gasket is used to ensure the sealing of nodes working in particularly harsh conditions.

The device, which uses all types of these materials is a carburetor, and, despite the fact that for the preparation of the working mixture in modern cars, this detail is no longer used, the garage master may need information about how to change or make their own gasket for this part.

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