What tools do you need for installing doors?
Tools for installing interior doors: a list for the beginner
To buy an interior door with an interesting or simple design nowadays is quite easy. Another issue is that it is not easy enough to install. It is necessary to collect a certain set of tools that will really be needed, rather than bought at random.
An important step in the selection of tools for the installation of the door will be preparatory. It is necessary:
- Determine the front of the work;
- What tools you may need during the process;
- Check to see if you have what you need at home and if it is in working order;
- Write a list of missing tools. This will reduce the time of work in the future, because it will not be necessary each time to go to the store for new and new purchases. In addition, with prior preparation, you can choose equipment more carefully. In this way, only the best options of devices and appliances will be in your home.
The choice of equipment used is also important for quality installation and further operation of the interior door.
What tools are needed for the installation of interior doors
In order for the process of installing interior doors to be successful, it is important to choose the right tools to perform it. Today, many devices are available to facilitate the work. Some of them are not mandatory, but you can’t do without a certain set of them anyway.
The right set of tools will greatly simplify the process of installing the door
Installing the handle with the lock
Interior doors are made of different materials. Most often it is wood and fiberboard. The fiberboard panel is just a panelling, which, when opened, reveals the wooden frame and the inner filling. Such design imposes strict restrictions on the place of installation of a locking device. If while deciding how to mortise the lock into a wooden door you can place it at any convenient height, the place of installation in the composite panel is limited by the position of the middle cross bar of the frame or the lock bar.
In practice, this is rarely a problem, because the lock part is placed at a standard and most convenient height of about 1 m from the floor.
But other difficulties can arise: in such doors, when mortising the lock, it is easy to damage the upper decorative layer of film, veneer or other finishing material. Therefore, if in the slightest doubt of their own abilities is better to invite this work to the master.
The first stage of installation. the marking of the place of installation. It must be done very precisely and slowly. The instructions for most locks includes a template, which makes it easy to do: the scheme is folded along the line of bending, put on the face and the front surface of the leaf, then on them with a sharp instrument mark the centers of the holes to be drilled.
Advice! Before you mortise the lock into the veneered and laminated doors it is recommended to cover the place of installation with masking tape to avoid damaging the surface.
If there is no template in the manual, you can make the marking by yourself.
- At first measure the necessary distance from the bottom edge of the leaf and put a horizontal marking on the door face.
- With the help of a construction angle transfer this mark on both sides of the leaf.
- On both sides of the face on a horizontal line measure the distance specified in the instructions. 60 or 70 mm, and put a point. This is the center of the future large opening for the locking device.
- On the face, simply find the middle of the horizontal mark. this is the center of the hole for mounting the latch.
All of these measurements must be taken very accurately, taking your time to mark out the necessary amount of time. The slightest mistake will lead to the impossibility of correct installation and operation of the lock.
To mark the point of drilling a hole for the handle, you can hold the latch to the blade Source sdelaidver.com
Drilling out the mounting sockets
Having marked the central points and guided by them, drill the holes of different diameters in the leaf: 50 mm on the plane and 23 mm at the end.
A large through hole is made with a crown cutter of the appropriate diameter, attached to a drill or electric screwdriver, setting the drill to the center point. In order to make the mortise into the inner door neatly, we do it in 2 stages: firstly we start the work from one side of the leaf and when the drill goes through we put the bit on the other side. This technique makes it possible to avoid chipping on the front surface.
The hole in the end face for the latch is selected with a feather drill, holding the drill strictly perpendicular to the surface. If everything is done correctly, the drill will go through the hole exactly in the middle and at a right angle.
Inserting the latch counterpart into the door frame.
This work should be done after the installation of the door frame, when the foam has cured.
Drawing the marks.
- Now determine how far the tab is from the edge of the frame. You can use a small piece of cardboard for this. Slip the cardboard into the gap between the door leaf and the frame until it hits the tongue of the latch. Then marked on the cardboard edge of the box.
- Open the door and place the cardboard against the frame pillar so that the mark on the cardboard aligns with the edge of the pillar. Use a pencil to mark the place where the edge of the tongue will be.
- Put the latch’s mating part to the post according to the marks you have made. Put this part on the opposite way round, as shown on the picture below.
Draw the latch’s mating part.
- Use pencil to mark screw locations and trace the inside of the part.
- Inside the marked outline we drill a few holes and tap out the excess material with a chisel and hammer.
Use a chisel.
- Drill holes of diameter 1.5 mm into the places where self-tapping screws will be installed.
- Mount the counter part of the latch.
- Check how the door closes.
Step by step instruction
If installed interior doors are exactly suited to the existing opening, then their installation is recommended to produce at the final stage of repair of the cottage or apartment. Then, when the ceiling is already whitewashed and wallpaper is pasted. But if the doorway needs to be expanded, then this work should be done at the stage of rough finishing. There is a lot of dirt and dust when the walls are broken.
Interior doors installation step by step instruction
Direct installation of interior doors with their own hands is made in six steps:
- Assembling the frame.
- Installing the hinges.
- Hanging the door leaf.
- Installing the sill and architraves.
- Fastening of the architraves.
- Installation of door hardware (locks and handles).
Assembling the frame
When studying which pipes are better for plumbing and easier to install, you have to consider many metal and plastic options. With door blocks for interiors is much easier. Almost all of them are made of lumber. Designs made of plastic or aluminum in private homes are extremely rare. As a result, when installing interior doors, you only have to work with wood, which is not so difficult.
There are two ways to assemble a wooden door frame:
The first option looks more elegant. However, the second is more easy to cut independently. Only with it you need to be very careful when cutting the curb on the top rung so that the vertical bars fit evenly and without gaps. In this case, it is recommended to choose the method of assembling the outer frame of the interior door, depending on the interior design.
The necessary dimensions and tolerances for assembling a door frame
To ensure that the leaf then did not sit too tightly in the box, when trimming the crossbar should be laid an additional 3 mm on the left and right. Fasten the horizontal and vertical parts in the corners from the top with self-tapping screws at the end of the posts from the outside. And so that when screwing in these screws, the box joists do not crack, you must first drill holes with a thin drill bit (one millimeter thinner than the fasteners).
In this case, the load-bearing post, where the hinges will be, do not at this stage of the installation of the door rigidly tighten to the end. It should only be lightly secured in its intended place.
Installing the hinges
The hinges are first hinged to the leaf with an indentation of 200-250 mm at the top and bottom. The hinges of interior doors can be applied (“butterfly”) and countersunk. The first ones just need to be placed on the end with the inner small part and fastened with self-tapping screws. And for the latter you must first cut out the grooves.
Measurements for mounting the hinges
Then the leaf is inserted into the box laid on the floor. And mark the places for fixing the hinges on the posts. But first, between the end of the leaf and the details of the box must be inserted wood (pieces of wood-fiber board) thickness of 3 mm, so that then there was a gap.
Then the support post, not tightened to the end, is unscrewed from the crossbar and the hinges are screwed to it. Then place the support leg in its place and finally secure it with self-tapping screws.
Installing the door leaf
After almost completely assembled interior door should be put in an opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally with a level. To fix the block in position, wedges and wood are used.
Caulking gaps, holes and installation of filler plates
It is allowed to leave a gap of 0.5 to 3 cm between the outer side of the block and the end of the wall. But if the house is wooden, this gap should be at least 1.5 cm in case of shrinkage of the log cabin.
Variants of arch support for inner doors
Fastening of the frame is carried out with anchor bolts, which are placed under the hinges and the lock plate. For this purpose, holes are first drilled in the vertical posts on both sides up to the wall. Then the block is removed and the room divider itself is drilled. If you work with a drill without cleaning the box, there is a serious risk of inadvertently damaging its decorative coating.
Also the box can be fixed by metal hangers. They are first screwed to the posts, and then, after bending on the wall, they are attached to it with dowel self-tapping screws.
If the wall is thick, you will need to put the boards (rebate, filler timber). The box has a so-called catchment area. This internal space needs to be decorated. Boards are made of solid wood, wood-fibre board or wood-fibre board. After sawing to the required size, they just need to be attached to the box and screwed to it with long self-tapping screws. Then spacers are also put underneath the door frame along the entire perimeter of the opening and a spacer in the middle.
Then all that remains is to spray the installation foam and leave the unit closed for some time to rest. It is recommended to continue installing the interior door already the next day. The foamed adhesive must cure completely and fix the door frame.
Installing the threshold and architraves
Threshold and trimmers are installed after the box is fixed with anchors and foam. The first one is a metal strip with holes for dowel and self-drilling screws. It is required to cut to the width of the opening, drill holes in the floor and “nail”.
Nailheads on interior doors come in different shapes:
They are attached by means of a tongue and groove joint, with nails or glue. Their trimming in the upper corners of the door is done at 45 or 90 degrees. In this case, the joints of the crossbar and vertical slats should be made as tight as possible. The slightest irregularities and cutting errors will later turn out to be visible.
How to measure correctly
You will need a tape measure with a retractable mechanism.
If you are changing an old door, you can measure in two ways:
In a new house, the openings usually initially have standard dimensions that are indicated on the plan. But just in case, it is better to measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the necessary parameters of the leaf horizontally, it is necessary from the received numbers:
When calculating the height of the opening, measure the vertical of the opening, and subtract the height of the threshold (if any) and the gap for opening from 2.5 to 4 cm.
The data obtained are compared with the typical dimensions of the doors. With a small difference, the width and height of the opening can be reduced by the boarding. If the results differ significantly from the standard norms, you can do different things:
Before you decide to take such drastic measures, it is better to invite a specialist to make measurements and voice his conclusions.
What tools are needed for the installation of interior doors
In order for the process of installing interior doors to be successful, it is important to choose the right tools to perform it. Today, many devices are available to facilitate the work. The presence of some of them is not mandatory, but you can not do without a certain set in any case.
The right set of tools will greatly simplify the process of installing the door
The material for the doorframe and architraves
Fibreboard. in fact, the material is pressed paper. The strength of such a product is minimal. Board from the fiberboard will sag from its own weight. When working with it you need to be very careful. In the process of installation of the interior door and its use, the product can get considerable damage. On such a box can not be hinged quality, heavy door leaf, and categorically should not be used to install entrance metal doors.
Fiberboard platbands are cheap and lightweight, but have minimal strength and durability
Natural untreated wood. in appearance they are simply profiled edged boards. They are strong enough to withstand any type of interior door, but need additional treatment: sanding, painting or varnishing.
Wood laminated with plastic or veneer. When choosing one, you should pay attention to the thickness and coating material.
It usually includes and platband comparable to the door leaf color, depending on the thickness of the walls to install interior doors may need dopornaya plank.
Recommended to read: How to install the harmonica door
Briefly about the basics
To mortise the lock with a router or to hang hinges on the door, it is necessary to choose the right tool. It is best to use a simple immersion model, because the combined model has a lot of weight. This will create certain inconveniences, especially if there is no experience in such processing of wood.
It is not difficult to use a router for mortise fittings. But the process is greatly facilitated by the presence of special templates. After laying the device on the desired place, you only need to set the tool to the desired depth of processing and set it on top.
When working, you need to closely monitor the process, in order to notice an overload in time. It can occur if the wood structure is too hard. Then simply reduce the speed of the tool using the special switch on the housing.