What type of router is required for mortising a lock?
Mortising a door lock with a router
Using a hand-held router you can quickly mortise door hinges and locks on site.
There are different types of hand routers, but the universal plunge router is most commonly used for mortise locks.
Even an inexperienced person, who has taken this technique in his hands for the first time, can cut the lock into the interior door with the router.
Many people, hearing the word “milling” think that it is a bulky expensive machine, but in fact it is a compact vertical machine, convenient in manual application.
With the wood-cutter you can cut any shape groove, cut grooves, even out the borders of the workpiece, cut curved profiles, prepare niches for hinges and locks, etc.д.
How to cut the lock into the inner door with your hands using a router?
mortising latches with trim router
For this purpose besides the mill with a set of cutters you need the following tools: electric screwdriver, drill, tape measure, angle, hammer and chisel.
The door leaf is fixed with the help of the frame in vertical position on the side.
This is to avoid the necessity of constantly supporting the door during the process of installing the lock.
After that we make all the described steps of mortise lock: we make a marking for the tongue of the lock.
We put the lock to the door leaf so that the marked line would run along the center of the drilled hole under the tongue and mark the upper and lower parts of the slat and the lock case with a pencil.
Then, using an angle, draw straight lines on the end of the door. Using a hand router we choose a recess for the lock mechanism.
To prevent the milling cutter from cutting off more than it is necessary, on the outer side of the marking at the top and bottom a masking tape is pasted as a stopper.
Then we insert another mill appropriate for the size of the strip, set the necessary depth corresponding to the thickness of the strip and carefully make a recess in the center.
Prepare the hole for the lock case: strictly along the center of the marking along the length of the lock we spend with milling cutter a straight line.
We drill straight holes with a drill and a feather drill bit, then we take a hammer and a chisel and remove the wood remnants.
Level the walls of the obtained place for the lock, check whether the lock goes in it and start assembling the lock and handles in the same way as described above.
Many people at least once, but still have faced such a problem. the breakage of the lock mechanism. In these cases, requires professional door lock repair.
Usually you need to repair the locks when you accidentally closed the door and the keys were left in the apartment.
Then, to get home, the lock has to be picked, after which it will need to be repaired, or the door lock can be replaced.
Sometimes it happens so that during opening the lock the key breaks and a part of it stays in the lock.
In this case the lock has to be disassembled, and if the door is made of metal, only the specialists will be able to do it.
If the interior door is made of wood and is equipped with a simple locking mechanism, the repair can be made by yourself. Before extracting the lock you should carefully study the door leaf so that the lock is not damaged.
Reinstalling the hinges yourself
Determine where the door opens, see the convenience of opening. We put the door on its side, ideally for the convenience of the work to make corner stops for the door to hold the door on its own, it will greatly facilitate the work. After 20 cm from the edge of the door put the marks with a pencil, attach the hinge and put the marks. Take, screw the hinge to the door, make sure the hinge stays in place. Take the construction knife and carefully and with little effort trace the outline of the door hinge, as shown on the photo, then with great effort trace the outline of the door hinge and perform the same operation with the second hinge. The result is a well-cut contour. Learn about the new modern ways to quickly mortise locks and hinges using special templates and carriages, which significantly help to speed up the work and improve quality. Details about tools and templates used when installing doors by craftsmen professionals.
You can cut the hinges by your own eyes with a chisel. You can of course do it faster with a hand router. Don’t think the router is that big and industrial, it’s a reasonable tool and needs at least a couple of diameters for different types of locks. Planer will ease and speed up the process of mortise door hinges, using it you can accurately guess the depth of mortise, and it helps a lot if knots and uneven wood fiber are caught.
What kind of router is needed to install a lock
For mortise hinges and locks very different sizes are required. For hinges. shallow, according to the thickness of the hinge leaf. Under locks. a large and deep recess. Therefore, professionals who install doors, most often use two different routers:
When choosing a router for mortise locks first of all it is determined by its ability to perform the task, that is to reach the depth to the bottom of the landing. The following routers are suitable for this purpose:
Generally, milling cutters with such plunge depth characteristics have the power more than 2 kW and weigh about 6 kg. They can easily cope with the task, but it is not very convenient to work with them because of their large size and weight. Therefore, other, lighter options with the same depths are selected, which are convenient for selecting under locks, and under hinges.
As an example, Bosch GOF 1600 CE PROFESSIONAL:
- electric motor power.1600 W (1.6 kW);
- cutter speed. from 10 000 to 25 000 rpm;
- The amplitude of the up-and-down stroke of the cutter. 76 mm;
- Collets for 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm interchangeable shank cutters;
- weight 5.8 kg.
There are models with suitable depth characteristics with the same or higher power, up to 2.5 kW and many other brands.
A more powerful and heavy milling machine is less convenient for such work because of the greater weight and dimensions, but it is easier to cope with the task, because when cutting deep recesses for locks and handles-latch milling machine is under considerable stress.
Depth guide with three screws at different heights is used to limit slotting depth. This feature is on almost all models, so when choosing it does not stand out as a special or separate.
Manual plunge cut
For manual mortise locks we may need such tools as ruler, pencil, tape measure, power drill with a drill (10-14 mm), chisels (narrow and wider) and circular files.
Measure 70. 100 cm from the bottom of the door and mark approximate place of the lock. Putting the lock sideways, we mark the inside of the lock, then we mark the width of the back side of the lock and drill a series of holes. After that we drill along the leaf keeping the drill slightly inclined.
Remove burrs in the recesses with a chisel so that the lock goes well into the groove. Holding the lock against the door face, mark approximate position of handles and the core, drill out and flatten it using files (doing the same on the other side). Insert the lock into the groove, push the spindle under the knobs and fasten the knobs.
Pull out the tongue and mark it on the door frame, chisel out the groove for the tongue and fix the latch plate there. Lock is embedded and ready for use.
What is the difference between a wooden and a PVC door?
There are several differences in mortise locks in which a PVC door is superior to a wood door. It is a polyvinyl chloride film (covering the door) which facilitates insertion of locks into the PVC door. Also some PVC doors when bought already have what looks like a frame (which makes embedding much more difficult).
Another plus for PVC doors is a niche for a lock (is made together with the frame during manufacturing), which can be widened if you want, but you don’t want to do it, if you don’t know how.
Insertion into the PVC door is a little more expensive, from 1500 to 3000rub (and it does not guarantee 100% quality).
Manual work is very time-consuming these days. That’s why different technical innovations have been invented.
Introducing the manual mortiser SKS 130 for mortising door locks. This 1600 watt hand router performs any number of grooves with excellent quality, locks easily and securely to the door leaf.
Elastic tabs on the clamps protect the door trim against damage. The tires do not need repair and lubrication. Slot length of 78mm and width of 16mm is milled in one setup.
Longer or wider grooves are made with millimeter accuracy by simple repositioning of the cutter.
Without removing the door from its hinges, the groove can be cut quickly, accurately and precisely. The counter movement of the chains guarantees a clean groove without chipping.
The next tool is a drilling jig for mortise locks and hinges. Developed and manufactured a new device for milling grooves for door locks and hinges with a universal hand router.
The initial task was to develop and produce a simple and easy-to-use construction, much lighter and smaller, more budget-friendly and versatile than similar devices FC116U, FR129N, UC16K from the famous manufacturer of tools and machines for woodworking. the company Virutex.
The attachment is designed for joint use with a hand-held milling machine for quick and accurate execution of grooves for door locks and hinges, as well as other grooves. The fixture can also be used as a template holder for the above purpose, as well as for milling other grooves on pre-made templates.
Any multi-purpose manual milling machine with copying bush mounted is needed to work with the fixture. For comfortable work two copying bushings with outer diameter of 40 mm and 10 mm are required. for milling, respectively, grooves for locks and hinges.
On the underside of the guide plate is a special recess for mounting of various templates to mill any required shape of grooves, not only rectangular ones. There is only a limitation of the maximum size of an opening in a template in the size 280х40 mm. Length, width, groove location can be adjusted in a wide range.
The wide lock groove can be milled in several passes using a smaller-diameter cutter, if a cutter of the required size is not available. The maximum depth of groove depends on the specific model of the cutter and milling cutters used.
For deep grooves it is desirable to use a powerful cutter with a 12 mm collet and a long stroke, type Makita 3612C, RP 2300 FC or any other similar milling machines, for example, firms Bosch, Metabo, DeWALT, Hitachi, Festool, Mafell, Virutex, Interskol and others.
For deep grooving it is desirable to use long straight router of total length not less than 100-120 mm, length of working part 40-70 mm, shank 12 mm, diameter of working part 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 mm. In the catalog of the Italian company CMT there are similar cutters series 652, 653, 912, s 912.
177 series cutters, e.g. 177.121.11 with additional tooth for easy face plunge cuts into the material is better to be avoided, because it is more difficult to control the manual vertical feed of the cutter. the face of the cutter is too easily plunged. Although, maybe another craftsman will find it more convenient and efficient.
You can also use an electric drill (with a copying bush fixed in the drill hole like a milling machine) and affordable large-diameter metal drills with 13-mm shank.
The advantage of the latter is the very long stroke, not less than 125 mm, and the availability of very long drill bits, including wood drill bits.
This is useful for making very deep grooves. For hinge or faceplate seating it is best to use a straight 6mm diameter slot cutter.
The drill has an adjustable frame quarter compensator that can be used not only for rectangular and rounded doorframes, but also for round-faced boxes, in which the hinge grooves can be precisely milled.
As an ordinary drilling jig, only with adjustable jig elements, it is very easy and intuitive to work with. The device is designed for professional door installers.
Trendy interior trends dictate their conditions, so people began to change both the entrance and interior doors more often. At the same time, their replacement is associated with certain costs, the lion’s share of which goes to pay for the labor of workers who will put the door. The obvious solution to the problem would be to install with your own hands, but it requires skills and special tools. For example, in order to accurately cut the locking device will need a mill, more about this we will talk further.
Using templates for mortise hinges and locks
Templates can greatly facilitate the task of installing them. You can make such templates yourself or buy them in a construction store. Making a template does not take long.
To make it you will need:
- Board of thickness from 20 mm, length from 40 mm;
- Fiberboard 100×100 mm in size;
- Wooden bar of small size;
- Rack length from 150 mm;
- Drill, jigsaw;
- Fasteners and bolts with thumbscrews.
We cut a piece of wood-fiber board to the required size and drill 6 parallel square holes (3 holes on each side). Make another hole in the center with the dimensions 140×70. On one of the edges of the lath is attached a bar, which will be a limiter. Further it is necessary to fix a lath with a bar to a tile with self-tapping screws. We cut 3 tabs from the board. one for vertical fixing and 2 of the same size for horizontal fixing. In each tab 2 parallel cuts are made, this will allow you to adjust the size of the holes. The overlaps are attached to the fiberboard board.
The template is ready, it should be clarified that all of the above dimensions are conditional and do not have to be observed.
It is very easy to use templates for mortise hinges and locks. To do this, it is necessary to fix the door on the floor. Next, we determine the side where the hinges will be located and make a preliminary marking. At the place where the hinges should be installed, we put a template. Chamfering with a hand-held cutter. The depth of the chamfer must be the same as the thickness of the hinge.
Hand router settings for hinge and keyhole mortise
It is possible to cut the hinges in the door only if the mechanism is adjusted correctly. As a rule, a router attachment has the following settings:
- Rotation speed of the installed nozzle. This parameter may vary within a rather large range. Improved machining speed significantly improves surface quality.
- Depth to which the hinge cutter plunges into the workpiece. It is important to choose such parameter correctly taking into account the peculiarities and sizes of door leaf.
Hinge and lock cutters allow precise depth adjustment.
For door hinges the main thing is to choose the rotation speed of the nozzle, because the wrong value can lead to chipping and other defects.
Using the hinge cutter
Adjusting the equipment
The insertion of hinges by hand router is carried out after the preliminary setting of the equipment, which takes place in relation to:
The depth of the notch depends on the thickness of the hinge to be inserted or. To set the desired parameter on the equipment is required:
- Place the machine on a level hard surface;
- loosen the fixation of the feed pin;
- Lower the cutter to the level of a flat surface and set the number “0” on the scale;
- If a hinge cutter is used, determine the thickness of the hinge;
- Raise the dowel to the required value and fix it securely.
The speed of rotation is determined by experimentation. Do not overload the machine and do not “burn” the wood. To adjust the speed a switch is used.
After all the adjustments have been made, you can start with the door hinge. To do so:
- The door is installed in special clamps to eliminate the possibility of warping in the performance of work;
- the places for mounting the hinge are marked. It is necessary to note not only the dimensions of the hardware, but also the places for mounting the hinge;
- the wood is excavated by the milling machine. If necessary, any imperfections detected after the operation with electrical equipment are corrected. A chisel and hammer are used to finish the notch;
When working with cutters it is important to choose the right direction of movement of the equipment. It is necessary that the cutting part moves towards the wood fibers. Otherwise unevenness and chipping may occur.
- Drill holes for fixing the hinge;
- the hardware is installed on the prepared surface and securely fixed with fixing bolts;
- The second part of the hinge is mounted on the surface of the door frame in the same way.
To choose a milling machine, it is necessary to determine for what purposes the device will most often be used. The use of the router can reduce the time for carpentry work, while improving the quality of the result.
In order to know how to insert a padlock into an inner door, you should know its construction and types.
Depending on the type of attachment locks can be both surface and mortise. The surface models, because of outdated construction, are not used anymore. It is very easy to correctly fix such lock because all that is needed for its normal operation is to provide entrance to the latch to the return plate. In this case, the main part of the lock is on the outside.
It is much more difficult to insert the lock into internal doors, as the whole mechanism should be set into the leaf.
Reed locks can have these types of fixation:
- Magnetic: a metal reed is attracted by a magnet, while a spring completely blocks its movement;
- roller. fixation is performed by a moving roller and a spring;
- latchbolt is a standard mechanism, which fixes the latch due to the tongue.
In addition, you can install a lock in the door, as for the entrance door. Such lock may be a supald, cylindrical or disk one.
If you decide to install interior doors with their own hands, it is worth noting that the easiest way to install the door locks and hinges. is not done with their own hands, and at the factory of the manufacturer. As a rule, the manufacturer carefully chooses such fittings and makes them reliable and has excellent performance characteristics. Read more about choosing door locks here. Buying doors with installed hardware, however, you may encounter some difficulties of choice. The most common is not suitable color or design. For example, you want a gold lock and the manufacturer says chrome. Or maybe you want the Italian AGB magnetic locks, with silent closing like lli, with a plastic tongue, and offer steel. As for the hinges you can buy the surface mounted hinges without mortise. Universal hinge without mortise does not look as aesthetically pleasing but still.
There is always a way out. just buy what you need, mortise the locks / hinges by your own hands and install. Do not skimp on accessories, because the broken mechanism can significantly hamper the further use of interior doors. Exactly the same lock or door hinges may no longer be produced, and the analogue, as a rule, “will not sit” in the already formed groove. We recommend to cut and install silent or magnetic locks AGB, lli (Italy). For more than 10 years, the installation dimensions of these products are the same and you can easily replace them if necessary, although they just do not break.
So, locks, universal or hidden hinges are chosen, bought and brought, you need mortise with your hands. For example, for unfamiliar fittings, we at first draw the scheme of forthcoming mortise in the real size of AvtoCAD program for automated installation, but it is possible to make a marking and according to the manufacturer’s instructions, especially if the mortise of the lock and hinges will be made by your own hands. Marking. responsible stage, you must pay great attention to it. “Measure twice, cut once”. works! Otherwise the product is spoiled, the supplier will not exchange it for you, and that is a considerable monetary loss. The marking depends on the type of lock and its peculiarities. It is important to dance from the hole for the handle. If you do not take it into account, the door handles can get at different distances from the bottom of the door leaf, and if the doors are installed in close proximity to each other will come out. oops or oops! In calculating and marking, use a square, tape measure, pencil, awl or a construction knife.
Using a drill and chisels. the grandfather’s method
The most common, what is called the “household” variant.
Marking and mortise the interior lock
We take a tape measure and measure 95 cm from the bottom of the leaf, along the face where the lock will be embedded (it’s our standard, you can 100 cm), put an angle piece, a cross-forest and carry the marking on the plane of the leaf to mark under the door handle. The marks are made with a sharp pencil or an awl.
We take the lock and measure the distance from the faceplate to the middle of the square hole of the handle and mark it on the plane of the leaf on both sides. We enclose the lock to the leaf’s end so that the line under the handle, drawn beforehand, will be in the center of the hole in the square and mark the upper and lower edge of the lock. This is the size we will drill out. Then we mark the center of the leaf with a square and draw the axial line of the mortise.
After the execution of the marking under the lock and along the drawn center line on the end part of the surface we make the holes with the feather (usually 14-16 mm, depending on the thickness of the lock), as often as possible from each other. In order not to drill out too much, a notch is made on the feather drill under the depth of the lock with iso or painter’s tape.
The trick is not to put the pen in the neighboring hole, as rotating at high speed drill can suddenly jam, get stuck and spoil the door. Then the groove is shaped with a few flat chisels, first removing the surplus wood along the leaf, and then trimming the side planes, so as not to split the leaf. Then holes are drilled for the handle and if necessary for the cylinder or the screw. It is important to drill the holes from both sides of the leaf, not through! The lock is inserted into the groove formed, aligned with respect to the drilled hole for the handle, its superimposed, decorative strip is outlined with a sharpened pencil and the final selection is made with a chisel.
That is all, the mortise lock is made by your hands!
Inserting the counterpart of the lock
The mating part or “coupler” is inserted after the door frame has been installed. The marking is very simple. We close the door and mark out the lower and upper edge of the latch through the hatch gap. Draw transversal lines on the box. Next, we measure the distance to the edge of the tongue on the door with a square and transfer it to the box. This will be the limiter of the upcoming drilling and installing a tap.
We drill two holes with a feather, and choose the central part with a chisel. Let’s put the latch plate, drill holes for screws and fasten it. Let’s try it. it works. Tap should be deepened only if its thickness exceeds 1 mm. It is made by chisel preliminarily having made outlines of screwed in mating part.
Marking and cutting in door hinges
The trick is to start marking and cutting in the hinges from the door leaf. And so we have a door of 2000 mm and a hinge of 200 mm, we measure off from the top of the leaf at the end 20 and 160 cm, draw transverse lines, put the hinge parallel to the leaf end below the line and with a sharpened pencil we do the edge marks.
It is better to mark the hinge that will be installed into the groove, because the factory stamping may be different. We take and their hands, and with a chisel, and yes, as shown in the video, cut the upper and lower hinges in the door.
Another trick is the plunge cut depth. It happens so that the gap between the parallel folded parts of the hinge is less than 2 mm, and the requirements for the hinge clearance of the door block is just 2 mm. In this case, the hinge needs to go a little deeper. Sometimes the gap is more than 2 mm, then the hinge is still cut flush with the face plane! With the hinge gap assembled block, so you have to put up with, but take this point into account when calculating, marking and nailing the upper element of the box, because it is released on the standard 6 mm, 4 mm with a latch and 2 mm with a hinge respectively.
The next step is to cut the hinge into the box element. So the hinges are embedded and installed in the canvas, we put the box and mark the edges of the hinges. We put the hinge to the marks parallel to the door frame and trace it with a pencil.
There is one correct nuance. It should be taken into account the fact that the thickness of the door leaf and the width of the box quarter from the sealant to the edge, can be different, and because we need so good shutter, that is close (but not too close) to the door leaf!) the sealing stripe to the leaf when the door is closed when the door is installed! For this purpose we measure these values before inserting the hinges.
Let’s say the leaf is 40 mm and the quarter is 42 mm, what should we do?? It is very simple, it is necessary to plunge the hinge into the frame 2 mm deeper to the seal than to the leaf. But it is wrong from the beginning, because in this case, a deeply planted hinge will expose part of the mortise, and when you open/close the door. will start to rub against the frame or casing, making an unpleasant squeak. Therefore it is more correct not to embed hinges in the frame but to put them on the leaf and on the same 2 mm.
- there is a great risk of door leaf damage as the result of slipping of the feather drill or chisel, especially if the tool is not sharpened to razor sharpness before the beginning of works! Sharpen cutting tools, use new drill bits,
- there is a great risk to crack the panels or, let’s say, to pierce them by unskilled actions, which can considerably affect the durability and service life of the door panels and constructions,
- the aesthetics of mortise may not appeal to you, especially if there is no experience in “woodcarving,
- it will be long, but “long” is not what should scare a novice master, who wants to embed the locks and the hinges with his own hands,
- The list can go on, but mortise lock in the interior door with your own hands has already been made, and this is the most important thing!
- In skilful, diligent and diligent hands, all the disadvantages may not exist, do not be afraid,
- cheapness of the tool used, especially if practiced “household”. Do not buy blatantly cheap chisels and feather drills!
Mortise hinges and locks into doors with a hand router.
The technology depends on the type of equipment used. There is a technology of template milling, when all manipulations are performed by a pre-prepared template or with the help of a “ruler”, using cutters of different diameter and length. There is, of course, and prof. equipment, where everything is thought over and adapted for the work. In any case. the main principle is rotating with speed close to 25 thousandth of a meter. about./min. mill with which the correct mortise hinges, locks in the interior door with his hands. For example, we, in our work use more than three types of milling machines manufacturers Makita and Virutex, various patterns and the Spanish template-holder, screw and spiral cutters of different diameters from the “CMT” Germany.
Marking for mortise cutters does not differ from domestic, and milling itself has a number of chips, which will be discussed below.
As for the door lock, mortise it with your own hands using a router is carried out on a standard line, coming with a set of equipment, different diameter cutters. In general, nothing complicated, as long as the stroke of the collet with a milling cutter provided the necessary depth of plunge, the height of the lock, respectively. In the video, mortise the lock with his hands using a router is done with an offset to the left edge. This is another subtlety of installing AGB silent locks and not only. The answer part of the lock with a tongue has a curvature and should be set it on the edge of the box, so that the answer became beautiful, you must take it into account when mortise, shifting if necessary lock on the leaf.
Drilling-in a hinge with a cutter has some peculiarities. On the door leaf, everything is similar to the lock. Using the ruler we choose the plane, depth and parallel edge, and then form the end edge with a chisel by 30-40 mm.
The trick. in order that the end edge turned out beautiful and accurate, chisel at the time of striking a hammer to keep perpendicular to the plane, shear and clean up the wood in several stages, a little bit, it is important.
It is more difficult to mortise the hinges into the door frame, because unlike the leaf, which has one plane of pressing, the frame consists of two planes. In fact, it is necessary to mill the lower plane and press the pad of the equipment to the top. The task is not an easy one, that’s why our routers have special modifications of the table. There are, of course, all sorts of devices, carriages, templates, and even a special loop mill manufactured by Virutex. Carriages were not used, you get tired of making templates for each loop, but the loop Virutex is a thing, but it is expensive, and we do not need. How do you cut the hinges into the box with a simple cutter, but with their own hands. I do not know, I have reached a dead end, I will add an article.
Door locks and hinges router: settings, templates and router bits, video
Such a manual electric tool as a router can be successfully used to perform various types of machining of products made of wood. With the help of this equipment and a set of working attachments to it you can not only perform decorative surface design of wood products, but also qualitatively prepare a furniture facade or door for installation, using the mill for mortise locks, door and furniture hinges. Of course, it is possible to perform the procedure of grooving in a wooden product manually (with an ordinary chisel and hammer), but when using a router, the productivity of such operation increases many times over, and the quality of the end result increases significantly.
Choice of a hole for the lock milling machine, placed on a special device