Why does the hammer drill work, but the chuck doesn’t rotate?

Your Drill Spews Sparks? You Can Fix That.

How to remove the cartridges of peorator to replace

On how to disassemble the chuck of the pen, not many people know, because such a need does not arise often. Many people find this process quite difficult, so they trust its implementation to professionals. But there is nothing difficult to remove the chuck from the peorator, you can see it with your own example.

In order to remove the cartridge from the rotator you need to do the following manipulations:

  • Of the tools needed for this operation, you will only need a screwdriver. First of all it is necessary to remove the protective cover that is located on the top or on the end of the tool
  • The washer and washer is located directly underneath the cover. To remove the washer, it is necessary to pry open the ring with a screwdriver
  • Use a screwdriver to pry open the second ring that secures the cartridge cover. After removing the ring the cover can be removed
  • Now you can disassemble the mechanism of the tooling, which is realized by observing the following sequence of actions: first it is necessary to slide down the washer with a spring, and then remove the ball from the groove by prying it with a screwdriver. Finally the spring has to be pressed down and removed together with the washer

This is the end of the process of dismantling the cartridge. If the chuck on the rotary tool chuck has to be replaced, then the remaining part of the sleeve must be removed. The new device should be put in its place. To remove the bushing, it is necessary to unscrew the screw by which it is fastened. After that, the bush must be clamped in a vice and unscrewed from the threaded joint with the spindle.

Install the new cartridge on the tool in the reverse order of its removal. First screw the bush onto the spindle and then tighten the set screw. If the reason for disassembly is the need to lubricate the unit or to replace any parts, then after performing the appropriate manipulations, you must assemble everything in the reverse order of removal.

Many people think about how to change the cartridge on the torch, but first you need to buy a new mechanism, and only then proceed to disassemble. If you follow the appropriate procedure, the result of the replacement will be successful, and the tool will last a very long time.

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This is interesting! Do not forget that before you insert the auger or other bits into the chuck, you must lubricate them with an appropriate lubricant. For such purposes, special grease for drills is available, but if the grease runs out, you can use lithol or solidol.

Faults in the electrical part of the tool

Before you carry out a repair of the torch, you need to understand how it is disassembled. The design of the power tool is built in such a way that its protective case consists of two parts. an electric one, which includes a handle and an electric motor, and a mechanical one, where the gear unit of the tool is located. Not many people know how to disassemble the peorator, because this tool fails very rarely. But if it does happen, then don’t rush to disassemble it. Repair should be carried out strictly in order. If the tool does not show any sign of life then it is an electrical problem. Below we will consider step by step how to identify and repair these or those kinds of breakages on an impact power tool.

Why does the choke work and not the chuck work?

The most in-demand electric tool for repair. An electric drill, often fails due to frequent and intensive use. If you have the basic skills and experience in repairing similar tools, to repair the drill will not make much difficulty.

There can be several reasons for breakage of this kind of tool. There is an opinion that the main reason is the improper use of a drill or “brand” tools, because of what her insides are of low-quality components.

Other more technical causes include

  • Breakdown of the moving part of the electric motor, its stator or armature
  • Bearing failure
  • Button breakage (speed regulator)
  • Breakdown of the reversing switch
  • Collector brushes wear and burn out
  • Chipping of wires in the cord, in the drill itself, or on the motor reel itself
  • Failure of the gearbox or the self-clamping chuck

In order to find out what the cause of the damage is, sometimes it’s not immediately obvious, e.g. the drill just won’t spin. Examination begins with the power cord, often because of intensive use, the cord is broken or in the area of the plug or somewhere else. The button and the various controls are also inspected. Try to turn the chuck. This is the end of the diagnostic procedure, the drill must be disassembled to get access and look inside.

To do this you have to unscrew (all) the screws around the perimeter of the drill housing and remove the top half of the housing. When unscrewing the screws pay attention to their length and remember in which hole screws of what length were in, it is easier to leave them at once in the removed part of the case.

We inspect the power cable and inside wiring for burns, wire breaks and reliability of the connection. In the place where the power cord enters the body of the drill, you can often see a damaged outer layer of insulation, its tear, and the power cord itself is eventually twisted.

If you have a defective button or reversing switch, it is easier to replace with a new one. You can, of course, disassemble and clean the contacts, but reassemble will be a hassle, there are many small parts and springs that all tend to jump out.

One of the most common types of failure is wear and tear of the motor brushes, they can be easily replaced yourself at home. Sometimes the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the body of the drill, if the design allows it. For some models, it is enough to unscrew the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. In other models, the replacement requires disassembly of the housing, in which case you must carefully remove the brush holders and extract from them worn brushes.

A characteristic symptom of defective brushes is a strong sparking and unstable operation of the motor when it runs intermittently or jerkily. This is caused by an intermittent electrical contact between the brushes and the plates on the collector.

You also don’t want to let the brushes wear down to their minimum size. This is dangerous in that the gap between the brush and the collector plates can become too large. The result is increased spark formation, the collector plates become very hot and can “move away” from the base of the collector and the armature will have to be replaced. The collector plates should be regularly cleaned of carbon deposits and the tension of the brushes against the collector drum should be constantly checked.

Other electrical malfunctions can be manifested by the absence of rotation of the drill motor, when there is no sign of the motor turning on (no humming noise). If the core drill does not start and the chuck turns easily with normal force, an electrical malfunction is most likely to be expected. Checking the specificity of the cause is made as available, checked the power cord, speed regulator button, starting capacitor and motor windings, all simply probing multimeter in the resistance mode.

Electrical problems include breakage of the armature. Armature or stator breakage has two causes. Improper operation and poor quality coil wire. Top manufacturers with a worldwide reputation use high-quality wire with double insulation and heat-resistant varnish that many times increases the reliability of motors and allows you to significantly extend the life of your drill. Cheap models can not withstand continuous and intensive work with overheating.

Armature breakage (faulty coils) can be diagnosed by a characteristic smell, an increase in sparks during operation. And on inspection you can see burned wire windings. But you can observe and the drop in motor power that will talk about the fact that the windings have started to burn, their resistance has already changed, which can be seen with a tester.

Armature and stator breakdowns may be observed as follows: Inter-turn electrical breakdown, breakdown to the body Breakdown of the armature (magnetic wire) and breakage of the winding.

The breakdown on the ground can be determined with a megohmmeter (multimeter) by touching any output of the winding and the magnetic core with the probes. A resistance greater than 500 megohms indicates that there is no breakdown. You should know that ideally you should measure with a professional megohmmeter, which has a measuring voltage of at least 100 volts. If you measure with a simple multimeter, you can not know for sure if there is no breakdown, but you can always tell if there is a breakdown. You can measure the breakdown with a simple method, with a light bulb, which is connected to 220 volt and the other pins to the case and the collector plates.

Armature inter-turn breakdown is a bit more difficult to determine. You can use a special transformer that has only a primary winding and a trough-shaped break in the magnetic wire to install the armature in it. The armature and armature core become the secondary winding. Swivel the armature so that the armature windings are running alternately by putting a thin metal plate on the armature core. If the winding is short-circuited, the plate will begin to rattle and the winding will become noticeably hot.

Often an inter-turn fault can be seen by routine inspection and the coils may be bent, squashed. You can try to fix it yourself by bending aside the shorted or bent turns of the wire.

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To find a broken armature winding you can connect an ammeter to the adjacent armature plates and slowly turn the armature. Whole windings will show a certain amount of the same current, a broken winding will show either an increase in current or no current at all. You can use a comparison test to find a faulty armature or to confirm if all windings give the same reading on the multimeter.

Breakage of the stator winding is determined by connecting an ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the winding, the lack of resistance indicates a complete breakage.

In this case, to make repairs with your own hands, rewinding armature or stator, without special devices is impossible. When rewinding the windings it is necessary to fulfill the conditions: the winding is made in one direction, at the coil the beginning of the winding is marked, the wire is wound clockwise, and then the end of the output is marked. The second winding is wound in the same direction, marking the leads beginning and end.

To replace the rotor or stator, you must dismantle the housing, disconnect the wires, brushes, if necessary remove the drive gear, and remove the entire motor along with the support bearings. Buy a replacement and put everything back.

If you suspect a breakage of the button (speed regulator) must be sure that there is voltage on the input and output terminal of the button. If when you press the button no voltage appears on the output, you must disassemble the body of the button and inspect all the contacts. As a rule, burning or sticking of the contacts can be determined visually. All pins must be carefully wiped with alcohol and sanded with an emery cloth. Then check the voltage again. Button repair with your own hands is possible only if you have certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many of the switching parts just fall out of the case. You can prevent it only by lifting the cover smoothly and carefully from the beginning.

When replacing the button with a new one, you must make sure that the new button is rated for the power of the particular drill. So, for example, for a 750 Watt drill, the regulator must be set to a current of at least 3.4 amp.

The reversing button is checked in the same way consistently.

The reversing mechanism is based on a system of make-and-break contacts. Its maintenance is carried out in the same way as for the start button.

The cause of “not working” of the electric motor can also become a failure of the starting capacitor. Usually a capacitor malfunction can be recognized by a color change. But it is more reliable to measure its capacity and compare it with the rating.

The mechanical part

In the mechanical part of an impact drill, there can also be different breakdowns, such as jamming the shaft of the drill. If the chuck can not be turned by hand and the motor still beeps when turning, then the gearbox or bearings are likely to be broken. Frequent malfunctions can be observed due to destruction of the support bearings. Gearbox breakage can also occur when the chuck is turned by hand and the motor is running, but the rotation is not transmitted to the main shaft. All mechanical faults can cause intermittent stoppages and malfunctions during operation. a buzzing, grinding noise and insufficient shaft speed.

The principle of the impact drill is based on the forward movement of two ratchets, which are repelled from each other during the rotation of the spindle motor. During impact drilling, the motor drives the spindle. From the motor spindle rotary motion is transmitted further to the large gear wheel of the gearbox to which the ratchet is rigidly attached.

The wavy surface of the ratchet of the big gear slides on the wavy surface of the second ratchet, rigidly fixed to the gear housing, thereby performing an impact action. Over time and with long and intensive use of your drill in impact drilling mode, the undulating surfaces of the ratchets wear out and the impact becomes weaker and weaker or does not occur at all. Inspect worn out gearbox parts and replace with new ones, if necessary.

If the chuck jams or you hear a grinding noise, you must first disassemble the drill housing and inspect the condition of the gears in the gearbox. Worn mounting splines or broken gear teeth indicate component failure. Such a gear must be replaced. Inspect the gears around their circumference by turning them smoothly by hand.

The bearings can be checked by turning the shaft in them. If the shaft is stiff, then lubrication of the bearings is a good place to start. If this does not help, they are removed from the axle with a special puller. If the bearing rim is turned by hand. If the movement is difficult or strange noises can be heard, the bearing must be replaced. The bearing not timely replaced will lead to jamming of an armature, or, at best, the bearing will simply turn out in a landing place.

To get to the bearings of the drill, you must remove the entire motor with the gearbox, first removing the brushes, so they do not break and that they will not pop out.

Before you remove the inside of the drill, carefully review what was there, so that when reassembling, as it often happens with “experienced” masters are not a pile of unnecessary items, the use of which is hard to find. Do not lose the ball that is on the end of the drill chuck shaft, it is responsible for drilling with and without impact.

If necessary and if the drill chuck is badly worn, unscrew the fixing screw inside the chuck.After that unscrew the chuck with the left thread and remove it from the shaft. Replace the chuck with a new one.

Often the drill breaks down during serious work, during an arduous repair or in other conditions, in order not to waste time and that it is not a problem for you, you should remember how to make the repair of the drill yourself. You should know the design of the used drill and quickly and easily determine the cause of malfunction and eliminate it.

Tips for avoiding a similar problem

If you use a high-quality drill bit, the drill bit will never get stuck in the chuck. But at the same time it is necessary to beware of fakes, because there are a lot of them now. And to prevent such excesses, it is advised to carry out trial runs with the tool received.

If after drilling 3-4 holes, the drill bit comes out releasingly, it means that the product is of good quality. When a shank gets split, the tool most likely will not disassemble when the tool is taken out, because the deformation will be small. It is necessary to be attentive and not even to miss when the drill starts to move along the barrel with great force.

there are cases, when the massive rotary tool makes holes in materials, for which the inserted drill is not adapted. Even a high-quality drill cannot withstand the strain and cracks.

Design of the entire mechanism

Regardless of the design and function of the device, all models (Bosch, Makita, Stern, Energomash, Interskol) have similar components.

The peorator consists of the following parts:

Unlike an ordinary drill, the peorator has an increased impact function, which is a very important advantage when mechanically acting on the material to be machined. This kind of work is achieved by its own mechanism for creating a jerk of the working device, which frees the operator from using physical effort when chiseling or drilling stone, brick or concrete.

The rotary motion of the electric motor is converted into a progressive oscillation of the percussion tool by creating compression between the working pistons. Such movement is actively transferred to percussion tools (chisel, drill or spatula). After studying the structure of the peorator, it is much easier and more effective to repair any malfunctions that may occur.

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